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Everything posted by Cribbs74

  1. Excellent patience. Car looks great as is. Make sure you thank wife in tow who supports your silliness. Congrats on that new baby and hopefully he grows to love the car.! Ron
  2. I don’t have hood pins, but seems to me that the nut would be mounted in the inside of the support instead of on top. Just from a laymans common sense point of view. Like I said I don’t have hood pins.
  3. Lol, yeah like that. Problem is he is probably in his late 60’s or 70’s now. I might feel bad afterwards. New pans are tacked in. Fit was ok. Still have a lot of welding to do and I have to go slow as I am not great at it. Pans are structural so I need to do a good job. Ron
  4. Would it be going too far if I pulled the Marti report and tracked down the guy who did the spot welds on the floor pan? He deserves a good hard slap across the face. Took me hrs to pull the driver side pan, not to mention the cuts and burns. Passenger side was very easy to remove.
  5. Thanks Tony, I am still on the fence as I have the steel to fix it as sits, however my time is valuable these days. Great to know that the 69/70 pans fit with minor effort. I read through your thread, good info.
  6. I am redoing the floor pans in my sons 72 coupe. I’ve already replaced the front full length pans and was hoping to use the steel off of the grande parts car to do the section under the rear seats. However, after removing the rear seats from the parts car I found the floor to be just as bad. My question is does anyone repop the rear section? I can find the entire floor, but not just the rear section. Had I known how bad it was going to be I would have done the entire floor, too late now. I can piece sections together , but would prefer to just replace it all in one go. Do I have any options? Thanks, Ron
  7. If you could get it all up to OKC we could do it over a weekend. 7hr drive though. Have you joined the Mustang club in San Antonio? If not that’s your next stop. https://samc.clubexpress.com/content.aspx?sl=1491604316
  8. Replacing rear shocks is super easy. To answer your question… No it’s not safe to drive until they are replaced. If you need to drive it now then just replace the shocks. They can be found at Rock Auto or any parts store. They will be the right size as long as you tell them what car they are going on. If you are a little worried about replacing shocks you will be very stressed about dropping the axle to do the springs. Ron
  9. I grew up in Canada and mudflaps, snow tires, were/are used all the time on daily drivers and grocery getters. They just don’t look right to me on a muscle car. They do protect the paint on your rear quarters though. This is only my opinion and I am certainly not knocking your car whatsoever. It’s beautiful as it is. If you drive gravel roads and roast the tires often then I would keep them on. Ron
  10. This is just a stock pressure plate. I tried it out in the donor and pedal pressure was definitely doable for day to day. Of course this car will be for my son and I have been driving exclusively manual trans vehicles since before I had a license. What is easy for me might not equate to easy for him. Maybe I will look into it, but he is young so he could use some discomfort to toughen him up. ;)
  11. I think they fit perfectly, nailed it. I wouldn’t change anything if it were mine. The mudflaps are kind of distracting to the clean lines, but I understand why you want them.
  12. Glad to see I am not alone. Not sure if I am up for the bearing mod, luckily it’s able to be done without removing the box, I think…
  13. I am attempting to swap the pedal box from auto to manual. While the removal is straight forward, the access to the top bolt that secures the top of the box to the dash area is exceedingly difficult to remove. I managed to do it, but I had to remove the dash facia and gauge pods to get to it. Did I miss something? Surely there must be a better way. Ron
  14. Thanks David, Yes, someone seriously neglected the roof. Shame really. I could save it, but then I would have to get another parts car, my luck it would be salvageable as well. I haven’t made my mind up yet on what to do with it, but for now my son can take anything he wants off of it for his 72. Ron
  15. Thanks David, It did turn out to be a 5 Speed and a power brake car. I think I did quite well for my investment of $1K for a clean titled ‘73 parts car. Not my first rodeo when buying cars sight unseen. I haven’t been burned yet. Sometimes you have to take chances… Ron
  16. I assumed it was an advertisement error and it was a 3speed car. It was a nice surprise. The previous 2 owners kept all receipts and as I was thumbing through I found a really thick receipt from Oct 2002. Turns out the long block was replaced at that time $3K worth of parts and labor. Odometer showed 163,000 on that receipt it now shows 187,000. So if everything is still up to snuff there is a low mileage engine sitting in there. Another nice surprise.
  17. I bought this as a parts car for $1000. It was a sight unseen thing and I wasn’t expecting much. It was advertised as a 302 5 speed. That’s pretty much all the ad said other than it was a 1973. Turns out it actually is a 5 speed. Someone installed a T-5 conversion kit. So the car just paid for itself. It has power disc brakes and a clock console. I was wanting all those items so I am happy. The bad part is the roof is gone and both front fenders are toast. The good is the engine turns over and electrics work. It’s a parts car and for $1K I think I did ok. It’s a shame though as this was a roadworthy car in 2005. Inspection tag was last done in 05. Receipts for work accomplished in 2006 and 2007. It just sat unprotected and not driven.
  18. I brought it home! Will post photos in the Grandé forum.
  19. I will and thanks for the info. My hope bar is set pretty low. Maybe I will be pleasantly surprised.
  20. I just purchased a 73 parts car. It’s a Grande, sight unseen. Craigslist…seller claims it has a 302 and a 5 speed manual. I am assuming it’s not a 5 speed as he couldn’t even tell me if it had power brakes. My question is was a 4 speed an option for a 302 in 1973? Or is it most likely a 3 speed? I only paid $1000 for it so I took a chance. It should at least have $1000 in good parts on it. I pick the car up on Sat so my questions will be answered regardless, the suspense is killing me though. Ron
  21. So, I purchased a 1.12 4100 carb that is very clean for $125. The Venturi restrictors are $24. I’ll use the primary jets from my 2100 to get it useable on a 302. Secondaries will take some tuning. All in, even if I have to buy a rebuild kit, will be less than $200. 90% sure the throttle shafts will not need a re-bush. Choke style is correct for the 1972 setup I currently have. What I didn’t consider is if the stock air cleaner will fit over the carb… Hoping so. Thanks for the help and advice everyone. Ron
  22. When was the last time you checked your fuel filter?
  23. Still searching for a 4 barrel for my 302. Plenty of 1.12 carbs out there but not many 1.08’s and the ones that are folks want close to $500 for them. My question is has anyone successfully run the larger 1.12 on a stock 302 2V? I see there is Venturi restricting rings available, not sure if that is the way to go. 480 vs 600 CFM…. I’d rather be at 480
  24. If it was running well before the additive and poorly after then I would lean towards the additive being the culprit. Making adjustments will only compound the problem. I am a electronics technician by trade and was told long ago if it was working yesterday and not today an adjustment probably isn’t the problem. The distributor didn’t move itself, nor anything on the carb. This problem occurred only after adding the additive correct? Could be something as simple as fouled plugs… What additive did you use?
  25. Thanks to the both of you. I understand now HK I appreciate the chart Galucha! Just what I needed. I also answered my own question concerning the vacuum pickoffs. They all run off of the manifold…. See, told you I was new to these Mustangs.
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