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Everything posted by Cribbs74

  1. Replacing rear shocks is super easy. To answer your question… No it’s not safe to drive until they are replaced. If you need to drive it now then just replace the shocks. They can be found at Rock Auto or any parts store. They will be the right size as long as you tell them what car they are going on. If you are a little worried about replacing shocks you will be very stressed about dropping the axle to do the springs. Ron
  2. I grew up in Canada and mudflaps, snow tires, were/are used all the time on daily drivers and grocery getters. They just don’t look right to me on a muscle car. They do protect the paint on your rear quarters though. This is only my opinion and I am certainly not knocking your car whatsoever. It’s beautiful as it is. If you drive gravel roads and roast the tires often then I would keep them on. Ron
  3. This is just a stock pressure plate. I tried it out in the donor and pedal pressure was definitely doable for day to day. Of course this car will be for my son and I have been driving exclusively manual trans vehicles since before I had a license. What is easy for me might not equate to easy for him. Maybe I will look into it, but he is young so he could use some discomfort to toughen him up. ;)
  4. I think they fit perfectly, nailed it. I wouldn’t change anything if it were mine. The mudflaps are kind of distracting to the clean lines, but I understand why you want them.
  5. Glad to see I am not alone. Not sure if I am up for the bearing mod, luckily it’s able to be done without removing the box, I think…
  6. I am attempting to swap the pedal box from auto to manual. While the removal is straight forward, the access to the top bolt that secures the top of the box to the dash area is exceedingly difficult to remove. I managed to do it, but I had to remove the dash facia and gauge pods to get to it. Did I miss something? Surely there must be a better way. Ron
  7. Thanks David, Yes, someone seriously neglected the roof. Shame really. I could save it, but then I would have to get another parts car, my luck it would be salvageable as well. I haven’t made my mind up yet on what to do with it, but for now my son can take anything he wants off of it for his 72. Ron
  8. Thanks David, It did turn out to be a 5 Speed and a power brake car. I think I did quite well for my investment of $1K for a clean titled ‘73 parts car. Not my first rodeo when buying cars sight unseen. I haven’t been burned yet. Sometimes you have to take chances… Ron
  9. I assumed it was an advertisement error and it was a 3speed car. It was a nice surprise. The previous 2 owners kept all receipts and as I was thumbing through I found a really thick receipt from Oct 2002. Turns out the long block was replaced at that time $3K worth of parts and labor. Odometer showed 163,000 on that receipt it now shows 187,000. So if everything is still up to snuff there is a low mileage engine sitting in there. Another nice surprise.
  10. I bought this as a parts car for $1000. It was a sight unseen thing and I wasn’t expecting much. It was advertised as a 302 5 speed. That’s pretty much all the ad said other than it was a 1973. Turns out it actually is a 5 speed. Someone installed a T-5 conversion kit. So the car just paid for itself. It has power disc brakes and a clock console. I was wanting all those items so I am happy. The bad part is the roof is gone and both front fenders are toast. The good is the engine turns over and electrics work. It’s a parts car and for $1K I think I did ok. It’s a shame though as this was a roadworthy car in 2005. Inspection tag was last done in 05. Receipts for work accomplished in 2006 and 2007. It just sat unprotected and not driven.
  11. I brought it home! Will post photos in the Grandé forum.
  12. I will and thanks for the info. My hope bar is set pretty low. Maybe I will be pleasantly surprised.
  13. I just purchased a 73 parts car. It’s a Grande, sight unseen. Craigslist…seller claims it has a 302 and a 5 speed manual. I am assuming it’s not a 5 speed as he couldn’t even tell me if it had power brakes. My question is was a 4 speed an option for a 302 in 1973? Or is it most likely a 3 speed? I only paid $1000 for it so I took a chance. It should at least have $1000 in good parts on it. I pick the car up on Sat so my questions will be answered regardless, the suspense is killing me though. Ron
  14. So, I purchased a 1.12 4100 carb that is very clean for $125. The Venturi restrictors are $24. I’ll use the primary jets from my 2100 to get it useable on a 302. Secondaries will take some tuning. All in, even if I have to buy a rebuild kit, will be less than $200. 90% sure the throttle shafts will not need a re-bush. Choke style is correct for the 1972 setup I currently have. What I didn’t consider is if the stock air cleaner will fit over the carb… Hoping so. Thanks for the help and advice everyone. Ron
  15. When was the last time you checked your fuel filter?
  16. Still searching for a 4 barrel for my 302. Plenty of 1.12 carbs out there but not many 1.08’s and the ones that are folks want close to $500 for them. My question is has anyone successfully run the larger 1.12 on a stock 302 2V? I see there is Venturi restricting rings available, not sure if that is the way to go. 480 vs 600 CFM…. I’d rather be at 480
  17. If it was running well before the additive and poorly after then I would lean towards the additive being the culprit. Making adjustments will only compound the problem. I am a electronics technician by trade and was told long ago if it was working yesterday and not today an adjustment probably isn’t the problem. The distributor didn’t move itself, nor anything on the carb. This problem occurred only after adding the additive correct? Could be something as simple as fouled plugs… What additive did you use?
  18. Thanks to the both of you. I understand now HK I appreciate the chart Galucha! Just what I needed. I also answered my own question concerning the vacuum pickoffs. They all run off of the manifold…. See, told you I was new to these Mustangs.
  19. Ok, now I am even more confused, did you mean 4100 Hemikiller? I already have a 2100 The summit Carb may be the way to go, but this is a budget build with my son so a carb rebuild would be good as well as saving a few $ Chuck, Our discussion on Saturday is what got me thinking about all this. My real concern is what 4100 is what? I have no idea what the tags decode to and also I don’t see any vacuum pickoffs on the 4100. I looked for a bit last night about 4100 info, but didn’t see anything concerning application or CFM decoding. Ron
  20. Please excise any ignorance on my part, I am new to 71-73 Mustangs. That said I am going through my 72 and I need to either rebuild the stock 2 barrel or install the 289 performer intake that came with the car. If I decide to do the latter I want to stay with an original style carb. I believe the 4300 series carbs are what I should be looking for, but I have also heard the the 4100 series carbs are good as well. I guess what I am asking is what carb would be stock replacement carb for my car? It’s a 72 coupe with a 302 2V. I see 4100 and 4300 carbs all over Ebay however I don’t know which one to look for, what the tag should say etc. I don’t want to get the wrong CFM or have to play a lot with jetting. any help would be well…. Helpful! Thanks Ron
  21. I am assuming it’s an automatic, a manual trans would have allowed you to get home by bumping the idle and increase and decrease speed with gear selection and braking. Could be done with an auto as well, just more of a pain and it may not shift out of first. Either way a broken cable shouldn’t leave you stranded. I was a broke kid once. Had to learn how to drive without brakes, clutch and throttle out of necessity! Not all at the same time though ;)
  22. Hello, I am attempting to do an auto to manual conversion on my sons ‘72 as such I need all the parts you have listed. I am quickly realizing how expensive this is. Is there a way you can come down on the price a little. This conversion is for my son’s first car and we have a tight budget. I don’t want to lowball you on an offer so I am wondering what your best price is. Kind regards, Ron Cribbs P.S. I tried to send you a private message, but it said you cannot accept messages for some reason
  23. Well shoot, maybe I should have checked first before asking. You know what they say when you “assume” something. Thanks guys! Ron
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