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  1. Don, as always is bang on above For what it worth try this out As I am a visual guy, A YouTube video that I watched really helped me understand “pulsing” power better. It’s by a mustang restoration guy who has lots of “mustang how to” videos. Although it is on an older mustang, the concepts are the same for our years. Pulsing power will apply to your gas gauge, and OEM/stock oil pressure and water pressure gauges (if your car was equipped with them). Unfortunately I am technically challenged, and don’t know how to find the link to put the YouTube video here, so you will have to search yourself...maybe someone else can post the YouTube link. Anyways in YouTube, Search “Chris the doc Ingrassia” video “how to troubleshoot faulty gauges in your classic car” it’s about an 8 minute video hope this helps
  2. As an option to a fuse issue, your light bulbs might be burnt out( I had a number of dash bulbs burnt out) I don’t believe new aftermarket gauges require the pulsing power (effectively ~5-6 volt) that runs through the voltage regulator attached to your speedometer cluster, so you just need to find a new suitable power source. if you want to run parallel systems, then you likely need to find new spots on your block for the sending units. I bought a T fitting (which I still need to install) to get the oil pressure gauge functional (just pull existing sending unit and replace with the T and both sending units), and as I didn’t have another location for water temperature sending unit I bought an inline water line fitting from Auto meter (as attached)(also yet to be installed in the heater hose). I believe it was on “the rickster” build feed, where he found VDO dual purpose sending units (that is supposed to work on both idiot lights and VDO gauges) hope this helps somewhat.
  3. Anyone experiencing supply chain issues in finding parts? I went in to buy new front disk brake set up (rotors, pads, and shocks) this afternoon. For what I use of the car (pleasure drives) I don’t need high end wildwoods, so I was looking for quality stock equivalent parts. Premium pads and kyb shocks were easy to find, but quality rotors are no where to be found in the area. Back ordered everywhere....best guess of 4-6 months to fill my order its a good thing that my car is ready to be “put to bed” for the winter, so hopefully they will eventually arrive and I will have a Spring project Also, i ordered those blue dash light diffuser globes back in April, they arrived this week maybe it’s just a Canada thing?
  4. To be honest, I haven’t needed to do it since I already had the screw holes already on my car....hopefully someone else could chime in....but finding those darn holes through the carpet was an exercise in frustration ( maybe it’s just me) in theory it would work, but I would want to add a cushion for the carpet and insulation that you are using, as that extra thickness may change the height and mess with the alignment. ( I can say that the new carpet is definitely thicker than the matted down 45 year old original carpet) I used the “mass backed” carpet from ACC which fit the contours of the floor like a glove. To find some of the holes, I eventually peeled back the carpet, wedged my hand underneath, found the hole with a finger, and then used a turkey skewer to get it in the hole (with a few puncture wounds in my fingernails). it was a process...but eventually got it for 6 of the 8 holes. full disclosure: I still need to use a soldering iron to burn a hole in the carpet and screw in the consul. I still have 6 turkey skewers locating the screw holes...
  5. Same thing happened with me...I think it was forel as well. I went online and either contacted forel by phone or by email (can’t remember). gave them my licence key #, and they got it working for me, from their end hope that helps
  6. Some additional photos that may help with your hole locations (for my coupe) without consul or carpet in...if you want more let me know....as I have a bunch of diff angles. Although in some Picts the hole locations are kinda hard to see. I carved out the screw holes when I installed the sound deadener (after cleaning up the surface rust).
  7. Not exactly what you are looking for, but should give you some positioning help/guidelines. These pictures are PRIOR to consul removal (on a factory consul car) when I replaced the carpet. I had an extremely hard time refinding (more hours than I am willing to admit on this forum) the existing screw holes from the top side, and used turkey skewers to poke through the mass backed carpet. I eventually found 6 of the 8 holes from inside the car....and eventually put the car up on a lift in an attempt to find the front 2 screw hole locations from the underside...which I still haven’t found as of yet, as the transmission was blocking my view. Given you are drilling holes, it should be way easier....but from what I’m told the soldering gun/iron is highly recommended assuming you installed loop carpet, as if you get a carpet loop/strand wrapped on the screw, you will end up with a run pulling on your carpet. cheers
  8. For what it is worth, I heard a rumour a couple of weeks ago from my local mustang shop, that Scott Drake was bought by another company in the recent past. Also that Wheel Vintiques (who I understand was having all kinds of quality control issues on their magnum 500’s ) also changed ownership. if memory serves me correct, Holley Performance bought one of the 2. I can’t remember the other purchaser. cheers
  9. Update: Put the stang up on a buddies lift today to check on the leak (as identified by the tire shop last week at the back of the motor). We had to look real hard to see anything as far as a leak, however eventually we saw a couple of drips at the back of the motor where the bell housing was attached to the block. It doesn’t appear to require an immediate fix. I will keep an eye on it and evaluate it next spring, given the driving season is all but over up here in Western Canada.
  10. I seem to be loosing some coolant. I still need to crawl under the car for a closer look, to confirm. I have a drip from what appears to be the rear of the engine. It doesn’t appear to be coming from the side of the block. I suspect that the culprit is one or more of the frost plugs at the back of the engine. Assuming it is a rear block frost plug, access is next to impossible with the engine in the car. I have a small block 302 cid 1) I suspect that this is a “I better get it fixed” issue as the leak will likely only get worse, and possibly blow the whole plug out and leave me stranded somewhere in a puddle of coolant. 2) While I am there, should I replace all the frost plugs on the back of the block? Or leave the ones that aren’t leaking alone? ( Car was parked for close to 30 years started up a few times a year)...it’s a lot of work to get access to replace a $10 brass plug....I wouldn’t want to have to do it again in a few years time. 3) Any one have a picture available of the location of the frost plugs on the rear of the block. I have looked online and it is unclear whether there is 2 or 3 plugs on the back of the block. Do I have to pull the engine? Or can I get at it by dropping the automatic transmission and attempt to fix it with the block in the car? As always, I appreciate your comments Thx
  11. I am no expert but 245 seems too wide for the fronts... For what it’s worth a buddy had 235/14’s on the front of his 67 mustang and they rubbed around corners...but I guess it really depends on your rims spacing and offset. Interestingly enough, I took my car out to a local show this weekend after being parked for ~2 years for interior replacement, (about 45 minutes drive at highway speeds each direction). As I was floating around on the highway, I remembered that my Michelin Sport EP-X tires (that I bought in the mid 1980’s and are no longer made by Michelin) were somewhere around 30 years old and were well beyond the 10 year recommended replacement. My car was parked for about 28 years before I restored the body in winter of 2018, so the tires have tons of tread....but the age of that rubber...yikes. No issues getting home, but I slowed down a bit just in case. Anyways it turns out that this morning I was able to find 14” BF Goodrich Radial TA’s here in Alberta, Canada both p235/60 r14 for the rear and p215/60 r14 for the front to go on my vintage Cragar SS rims. I was initially thinking that I would have to get larger rims and was thinking Magnum 500’s....but with just buying tires, it saved me about Cdn$1,600. To be honest, it floored me that BF Goodrich was still making 14” radial TA’s and that they had about a half dozen of each in stock here in Alberta, Canada. I told the seller that I was going to looking hard at the manufacture date when these tires come in...as if the manufacturers date was old I was not taking them... I guess it doesn’t hurt to ask, as I was told that from time to time certain tire manufacturers make oddball sizes to fill out of favour tires. Good luck with your selection, I hope they work for you. cheers
  12. Thx for the info, I appreciate it and the product numbers. This gives me a huge kickstart for research on my 302 cid and oem gauge application. cheers
  13. Your project is coming along nicely! I am watching with great interest. It seems like nothing always goes according to plan (ie paint)...it’s just more time and money, but it will be well worth it in the end. I have a question on your April 30, 2021 post with respect to the dual sending units for temp and oil pressure. I too am in the process of adding gauges (albeit OEM instead of the VDO’s you went with) and plan on running both “ idiot lights” and gauges. I am interested in your comment that someone makes/sells dual sending units where both the gauge and idiot lights would work from one sensor sending unit. I too would be interested in not having to use a “T” for the oil pressure sender and finding another spot for the water temp sender. I wasn’t aware that anyone combined these 2 types of sending units into one unit. I googled and found dual station sending units for marine applications, but it was unclear if they worked for dual purpose. When you have some time, please tell us more/ send details of these products. thx
  14. For me, if I was to buy another 71-73 it would be a vert. As my 72 coupe was bought by my dad when it was 6 months old, and I bought it when I turned 16, it is what I have. That said, I am glad that I still have it after all these years. But higher up the buy list would be either a 67-70 fastback or vert. I will stick my neck out and admit that I would prefer a small block v8 over a big block, any day...but that’s just me. Another coupe in any year doesn’t do it for me. Of course if it were a Shelby that would even be better. While I am at it, I admit that I am not a big fan of the body lines of the 64-66’s, in any configuration. Although the price of all these cars has gotten in the “too pricy to justify” range in the current environment, especially when I would have to pay an extra 25-30% buying it using my Canadian dollars. cheers
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