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  1. Look in 7173 wiki (middle of the page near the top)..the 73 wiring diagram is in there good luck
  2. I have allot of time for the guys at west coast classic cougar....allot of their videos are very well done. So much so, that I have started buying parts from them. My local mustang shop takes forever and a day to get me the parts that I order...perhaps the sign of the times and the supply chain issues (been waiting for months for my last order) in fact I am expecting some parts to arrive from them in the next few days, that I ordered last week cheers
  3. For what it is worth, I ran my wiring through the tri gauge cluster hole, and then routed it up and around the glove box/cubby hole...as I had some extra length of wire on my splice. I was thinking about going the same as your route, but I wasn’t sure of how the dash pad cover would fit over the wiring and/or the friction/rub on the wires over time underneath the dash pad. cheers
  4. I understand it has already been shipped today. I thought about a way to get it quicker...ie scan and email...but on further thought , in all fairness, it was really too much to ask of the vendor. When it comes in, I will consider posting it to wiki...when I have time (assuming I can do so) ....although I might need some technical assistance with that. My first goal is to get my car on the road...as it didn’t move last summer with the interior ripped out. Optimal summer driving season is short up here (really June - Sept). Got the upper center console (with the tri gauges) installed earlier this week...and hope to button up the entire front dash this weekend...leaving only window alignment, and related trim, the lower center console and seats....I can see the light at the end of the tunnel.
  5. Just purchased on ebay Thx shipping talks about mid July to me in Canada...
  6. I will buy it...looks like it will help let me flip to ebay
  7. Anyone have any words of wisdom to align a rear quarter window on a 72 coupe? I have a slight air leak that I would like to fix prior to putting my interior back together. I need to tilt the rear quarter window forward. I have a copy of the 1972 Ford car shop manual (which has instructions.... but either “I’m thick” or it is as clear as mud) It appears that it is a tedious slow process, so I’m am hoping someone has some experience and can direct me to some shortcuts for efficiency purposes.
  8. In my opinion it All depends what you want to do... if you are going concourse, then it will be expensive to get it all the concourse parts and harnesses (desirable if you have the $ and want to do it right). My car had the “map light delete plate” (a plastic cover that fills the hole) instead of the map light and no convenience group package...another option for you to consider...although I personally like the map light. I found one on eBay many years ago and installed it a about a month ago, with the help of this group and factory wiring diagrams. I wired it in myself...easy to do if you don’t mind modifying your stock wiring harness a little. My car is a base model, so I am adding certain options that I want as I go... it works great...comes on when you open the door, as it was designed to do, and by the switch if the door is closed. there is a few threads on the topic here...just search for it
  9. For those interested...in workarounds for dash bulb holders I have been trying to find a replacement center tri gauge light bulb holder (which I understand are not re-produced...at least I haven’t found any). They are 5/8” and with brittle 50 year old plastic...parts of mine were broken, so the bulb holder wouldn’t stay securely in the bezel housing. They are the same bulb holders as those used in the center console lower clock lights, as well. I found a workable solution as follows (not a 100% exact fit but works great with a small amount of Dremel work). I was ordering some led bulbs from HiPo and though I would order some to give it a try. HiPo Parts Garage: part #: T10-PTS-R (rubber). Bulb socket w/ pigtail wire leads They use the same 194 type (T10 wedge) bulb as the original. Not concourse but workable and hidden behind the dash, in any event. They come from HiPo with 4 knobs of which 2 needed to be ground down slightly to fit into the bezel. picture 1: left is as ordered, right one has had 2 knobs dremelled off picture 2: inserted into back of tri gauge cluster hope this helps someone along the way...
  10. For what it’s worth, my ‘72 has the seat release levers on the outside back of the seat....so drivers and passenger are specific...and not interchangeable
  11. 1972 coupe

    Calgary, Canada

  12. Picture of the lens and top of the bezel....shows how bad the lens cover is....underneath half is white, the other half is blue
  13. Thx all... I figured that was melted on plastic...I guess with everything...I just have to be real careful removing...and then melt on new plastic to replace. It looks like the key is to ensure I avoid breaking off the nubs, so I have a spot the good news is that as those melted plastic pins are hidden, so I can butcher it...and no one will ever know... :) Was it hard or just tedious to remove the alt meter lens?
  14. thx Good idea about using the plastic polish to buff up those lens covers. I did use a polish on my speedo/tach lens cover, which worked great, but the tri-cluster gauge lens covers are in rough shape (in my opinion...I bought them off eBay about 15 years ago, when I started accumulating parts, while my car was parked waiting to be restored) I believe the spring pins you refer to hold the 2 bezel pieces together, and are not the ones I am referring to. The ones I am talking about fasten the 3 separate ~2inch round clear lens covers that you look through to see the gauges. They appear to be melted plastic pins.....I looked on the backside of the bezel and nothing protrudes out the other side. I will try and post a pic a bit later.
  15. Has anyone tried removing the 3 plastic lens covers on the center console gauge cluster (oil pressure, alt meter, water temp)? Mine are yellowed out, so I want to replace the lenses....and Ohio mustang is selling replacement lens for about $30 With 40+ years of age, i expect the bezel to be quite brittle...and as they are a rare/expensive bezel....I certainly don’t want to damage the bezel. I haven’t tried pulling the lenses, but It almost looks like the holding pins are melted onto the bezel. Any comments suggestions are appreciated. cheers
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