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Everything posted by RD-72

  1. Ok....but how do you get the classic car exhaust rumble out of an electric motor? im sure someone will find a way...but it’s that rumble that makes the classic car, in my opinion
  2. Gotta tip my hat to you....that’s a beauty....it’s great when everything comes together the way it should....well done!
  3. You looking at going concourse? if not, I believe Scott drake and other guys make repop’s of the window cranks. I had a set of the ones pictured above original to my car...but the plastic was all coloured and breaking off. I bought a set of repop’s plastics but they would no fit over the domes. I then bought a set of repop cranks from my local mustang shop....BUT I note that the ones I bought were attached by set screws on the side of crank.....when opening or closing, torc on the crank, in effect, twisted the crank slightly, and the set screw came loose and the crank fell off numerous times. Pissed me off to say the least. I ended getting a oem set from a local guy (center tightening...with just the flat metal with a hole in it, that the repop buttons would fit on) who has a storage locker of 71-73 mustang parts that he has been sitting on for ~25 years here in Calgary....they weren’t cheap but Cheaper than EPay, and I gotta choose from a dozen or so sets that he had at that time. From experience, I would highly recommend get the ones with the center screw connections as pictured above.
  4. iVR (pulsing power or ~5-6 volts that comes out of the IVR) IS required to run the OEM temp gauge, oil pressure gauge and gas gauge (I don’t think anything else). It’s as simple as 12 volts power coming into the IVR, 6 volts coming out.... BUT do not forget that the long metal attachment of the IVR acts as the ground when attached to the gauge cluster (which is also required). You might want to try a bench test with just the IVR to see if that is your issue. Be careful not to hook up and test it backwards....as all you will see is a big spark and likely will kill the innards of your IVR (don’t ask me how I know). good luck
  5. Sale website is Kijiji.ca/alberta per Marti report attached to the car, it looks to be rare care
  6. Not mine...and no relation to seller....came across this fresh listing on Kijiji, for sale in northern Alberta, Canada thought I would pass on the listing for those who may be interested. Yup that’s right .... cheap CDN dollars for those who use USA currency.
  7. Pictures as promised...of the back of the gauge cluster...but I stand corrected...the IVR is on the tach side (picture #2
  8. So here is a picture of a printed circuit (courtesy of Epay), the connectors are on the tab hanging in the middle of the circle the tach and non tach printed circuits are different. the tabs to connect the IVR are built in and part of the circuit.
  9. That is exactly the part. Instrument voltage regulator (IVR). It is supposed to be screwed onto the back of your gauge cluster (on the speedometer side of the cluster...unless someone along the way butchered up the wiring. if I remember correctly, the printed circuit on the back of the cluster, has the male/female plugs attached to it...so it’s a simple pug and play. later today I can run into the garage and take a picture from one of my spare gauge clusters...which should help you out
  10. Captain obvious, putting his two cents worth in on the issue. just double checking, as you didn’t mention it in your post If I recall it correctly, assuming you are running factory gauges, I believe the temp gauge needs a voltage regulator (IVR) (attached to the back of you gauge cluster) so power goes into the IVR at ~12 volts and comes out in intermittent pulses, so it averages 5-6 volts (factory). The new solid state IVR’s apparently have power coming out at around 6 volts. it may be possible that your IVR is shot? Is your oil pressure gauge/gas gauge working? If so and everything is hooked up properly, then that might not be your issue. good luck...as wiring can be tough to get working correctly, especially if you were having troubles before. Who knows how much batching was done by a previous owner.
  11. Well I’m drooling.....and jealous, as I am partial to the blue colour tones. I have always loved the mustang fastbacks....don’t kick me out, but for full disclosure, I have always wanted an older fastback. :)
  12. In an attempt to learn more.... When I had my motor pulled a couple of years ago, I was told I had a Mexican 302 block, but didn’t think too much about it at the time. Within the last couple of weeks another member posted a link to the www.MustangTek.com website. When I was exploring the website, it pointed me to the characteristic of the Mexican 302 (round knob on the front drivers side behind the fuel pump, just to the left of the oil filter, and a half moon on the front passenger side of the block ...which I do have on my block, as per the attached picture). Researching the web for pros vs cons of the Mexican block has been a challenge....most of what I have found on the web seems based mostly on opinion. It seems to me that this 302 block was not mainstream, and may be somewhat rare. Some say it has a higher nickel content, weighs slightly more, and is stronger than other 302’s (with heavy duty main caps, similar to the hi performance 289). Other opinions are that there really is no meaningful difference. Can anyone point me in the direction of some facts about this block, provide opinions on the issue (hopefully supported with facts). thx all, as always, I appreciate your comments!
  13. Hmmm. I’m not an expert, but I thought the IVR put out around 6 volts (12 volts in, ~6 out) The stock ones ...opened and closed (on and off), so averaged around 6 volts, I thought the new solid state IVR put out a solid stream of around 6 volts. seems strange to me what you are experiencing...my uneducated guess is bad bulbs...or bad connections on the bulbs
  14. For what it’s worth, on the polarity issue, I have a printout that I received from Bill at HiPo Parts, when I ordered my Elite Series II led dash lights that show the correct polarity for the bulbs on the printed circuit (for both tach and non tach clusters). Unfortunately it is copyrighted, so I don’t think I can post the picture here without ruffling Bill’s feathers...perhaps have a look at hipo’s website ....or maybe someone else has previously posted a copy similar to it....or contact Bill directly....if needed. I am not sure it matters either way, but for what it is worth, I left my blue diffuser domes in the cluster, when I replaced the bulbs with led. I can see the cluster lights much much better as apposed to the stock incandescent bulbs at night with my old eyes. But I didn’t compare with and without the blue diffuser domes....although I have heard that getting those domes out can be challenging without breaking the ~50 year old brittle plastic tabs.
  15. Interesting, I have previously ordered kyb kg4504’s from my local mustang shop. They recommended them for my stock spring setup. I don’t expect to pick them up until my new front rotors arrive (at least for a few months, but likely in the Spring of next year. I hope the fit! cheers
  16. Here is a picture of my old one. I had 2 male and 2 female connectors, so maybe this isn’t the one
  17. The larger one looks like the neutral safety switch....this is on the firewall , drivers side center is, correct? the smaller white one...I’m not entirely sure i had to replace my neutral safety switch a few weeks ago...I had no reverse lights on my automatic c4
  18. For what it is worth, I went with these.... nice rumble, not too loud at higher speeds, but does make some noise on the rare occasion when I punch it ( but I also have a coupe)
  19. I bought my wiring diagram from my local mustang shop. this doesn’t show the where to route...but it shows the circuits, colours of wires etc I would try Jim Osborne reproductions if you want a hard copy . you can get electronic versions as well...but can’t remember who sells it. There is a copy also on the wiki page on this website hope this helps
  20. Don, as always is bang on above For what it worth try this out As I am a visual guy, A YouTube video that I watched really helped me understand “pulsing” power better. It’s by a mustang restoration guy who has lots of “mustang how to” videos. Although it is on an older mustang, the concepts are the same for our years. Pulsing power will apply to your gas gauge, and OEM/stock oil pressure and water pressure gauges (if your car was equipped with them). Unfortunately I am technically challenged, and don’t know how to find the link to put the YouTube video here, so you will have to search yourself...maybe someone else can post the YouTube link. Anyways in YouTube, Search “Chris the doc Ingrassia” video “how to troubleshoot faulty gauges in your classic car” it’s about an 8 minute video hope this helps
  21. As an option to a fuse issue, your light bulbs might be burnt out( I had a number of dash bulbs burnt out) I don’t believe new aftermarket gauges require the pulsing power (effectively ~5-6 volt) that runs through the voltage regulator attached to your speedometer cluster, so you just need to find a new suitable power source. if you want to run parallel systems, then you likely need to find new spots on your block for the sending units. I bought a T fitting (which I still need to install) to get the oil pressure gauge functional (just pull existing sending unit and replace with the T and both sending units), and as I didn’t have another location for water temperature sending unit I bought an inline water line fitting from Auto meter (as attached)(also yet to be installed in the heater hose). I believe it was on “the rickster” build feed, where he found VDO dual purpose sending units (that is supposed to work on both idiot lights and VDO gauges) hope this helps somewhat.
  22. Anyone experiencing supply chain issues in finding parts? I went in to buy new front disk brake set up (rotors, pads, and shocks) this afternoon. For what I use of the car (pleasure drives) I don’t need high end wildwoods, so I was looking for quality stock equivalent parts. Premium pads and kyb shocks were easy to find, but quality rotors are no where to be found in the area. Back ordered everywhere....best guess of 4-6 months to fill my order its a good thing that my car is ready to be “put to bed” for the winter, so hopefully they will eventually arrive and I will have a Spring project Also, i ordered those blue dash light diffuser globes back in April, they arrived this week maybe it’s just a Canada thing?
  23. To be honest, I haven’t needed to do it since I already had the screw holes already on my car....hopefully someone else could chime in....but finding those darn holes through the carpet was an exercise in frustration ( maybe it’s just me) in theory it would work, but I would want to add a cushion for the carpet and insulation that you are using, as that extra thickness may change the height and mess with the alignment. ( I can say that the new carpet is definitely thicker than the matted down 45 year old original carpet) I used the “mass backed” carpet from ACC which fit the contours of the floor like a glove. To find some of the holes, I eventually peeled back the carpet, wedged my hand underneath, found the hole with a finger, and then used a turkey skewer to get it in the hole (with a few puncture wounds in my fingernails). it was a process...but eventually got it for 6 of the 8 holes. full disclosure: I still need to use a soldering iron to burn a hole in the carpet and screw in the consul. I still have 6 turkey skewers locating the screw holes...
  24. Same thing happened with me...I think it was forel as well. I went online and either contacted forel by phone or by email (can’t remember). gave them my licence key #, and they got it working for me, from their end hope that helps
  25. Some additional photos that may help with your hole locations (for my coupe) without consul or carpet in...if you want more let me know....as I have a bunch of diff angles. Although in some Picts the hole locations are kinda hard to see. I carved out the screw holes when I installed the sound deadener (after cleaning up the surface rust).
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