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bdennis

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Everything posted by bdennis

  1. From the factory steel with sports caps. To some Australian made, early 1970's ROH Pro Sprint wheels. 235 / 60 / 14 on the front and 245 / 60 / 14 on the back. Next job, to replace the front drum brakes with disk.
  2. Looking good. How about getting some Australian XB GT 351 decals. These were factory fit on 1974 to 1976 Australian XB GT Falcons. Available on silver and black.
  3. Been busy.. Installed a new idiot light to tacho / idiot light conversion from RCC Innovations. Works perfectly. Then installed a new front spoiler. Very happy with the new look.
  4. Kevin, Thanks for the update. Its interesting that none of the kits that are sold either from CJ Pony, Scott Drake or MPBrakes have a replacement pedal. Given they don't come with one, I did not think a replacement was needed. Thoughts?
  5. Thanks Kevin. Does the pedal need to change? The car is an auto and is staying an auto.
  6. Thanks for the link. Probably a bit of overkill for what I'm after. I am also after a full kit with period correct booster.
  7. Thanks guys. Looks like the Booster kit from CJ Pony Parts is from MP Brakes. So same / same.. I plan on staying with either 14" or 15" wheels. So no big calipers or disks needed. Its just a cruiser not a racer. So std calipers are going to be fine.
  8. Guys, I have a H code (351 2v / FMX Auto) with factory drum front and rear brakes. I'm looking to convert the front to disk brakes and looking for a complete conversion kit that includes a booster that looks as close as possible to the factory 9" booster. I have found this kit from Master Power Brakes. - https://www.mpbrakes.com/front-brake-conversion-kit/1972-ford-mustang-legend-series-front.asp?catid=8BD4041A924D4A01B66208D7A8EADADA Has any one use this kit? It looks to be complete and uses the drum spindles. Any issues? Any other recommendations for other kits? The alternative is a Scott Drake kit. https://www.cjponyparts.com/scott-drake-front-power-disc-brake-conversion-kit-automatic-transmission-v8-mustang-1971-1973/p/DBCA134A/ This one looks very much like the MP Brakes kit. The car is a driver. Not a racer. So single piston callipers is all I need. Thoughts?
  9. They look nice but $350 for a pair.. Thats rather expensive.
  10. Hahaha.. Yeh I can imagine.. I was prepared and got a big bucket so all the drippings and pan would just drop into it. There was still instances of type F on the floor but not as much as there could have been and fortunately I did not get to taste it.. The best part was the reinstall seems to have gone well with no leaks.
  11. Removed the pan on the FMX transmission, replaced the filter, cleaned out the pan, reinstalled and refilled with trans fluid. The old oil looked nice and pink so was not worried about all the trans fluid in the torque converter and lines etc.
  12. For those that have the fold down rear seat option in the sports roof and dont have a space saver spare.. Do you guys still carry a full size spare? If so what do you do with it. There seems to be no room in the trunk for a full size spare? Im looking to see if a modern space saver (full size but narrow wheel and tyre) fits any better. Pictures would be handy.
  13. You can get a plug and play set up from ebay. No need to cut wires. Just add 1 wire to the positive side of the battery and connect the ground to the chassis. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/313578466549?hash=item4902bbacf5:g:DPkAAOSwe91g1LLV
  14. Steering wheel repair. The repair is not 100% perfect.. But good enough for a unrestored driver car. Dash pad was black as it had been replaced at some point. I removed it and painted it.
  15. Interesting discussion. I have a non tach dash in my 72 Mach1 H code. I added the P series 1 electronic points (black box) to mine and found that after about an hour of driving it would start to miss and carry on. Mine still has / had the original 1972 yellow top/Black coil. So have now replaced it with a after market coil (non Pertronix). The coil is one that needs an external resistor and measures 1.0 ohms across the +ve and -ve when not connected. I contacted the local supplier and as the factory wiring has the 1.3~1.4 Ohm resistor in series then all should be ok. The Pertronix optimum coil resistance is 1.5 ohms. So I effectively have 2.3ohms if I count the in line resistor. My question is.. If im still seeing issues and want to put in a genuine Pertronix coil then I need to either add a relay to avoid the in line 1.3ohm resistor or remove the resistor.. If I opt to remove the resistor, where exactly is it? Or is it just a special length of resistance wire? Of note, I have a small after market tach connected to the coil also. This may also be causing issues. I will monitor it and disconnect if I start to see problems and re test. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.
  16. Happy registration day today. After owning the car for about 4 months, I have spent a fair bit of time servicing, fixing and tuning the car getting is ready for a roadworthy check and then finally registration. Today the whole process is complete. The car now has plates and is ready to cruise..
  17. I also see the metal pipe that connects to the heat pipe in the inlet is directly connected to vacuum on the back of the inlet. On mine, the metal pipe just connects to the top of the carby to get air from the top of the carby not vacuum air like you have set up. I am not sure if that is having an impact also.
  18. Cleaned and rebuilt the Motorcraft 2100 2 barrel carby Replace the factory single system with a twin system and added some Australian Falcon XA/XB GT chrome tips. Greased the upper A arms and stopped them squeaking. Then went for a spin, tuned into the sounds of Cleveland Radio on the 351 band in stereo.
  19. Thanks for the info David. Yes they are a bit yellowed and a bit powdery. Will have a look at cleaning them up.
  20. Mike, Thanks.. I thought that may be the case. Will get a replacement stick on cover before I start.
  21. Gents, Simple question and I think I know the answer but thought I would ask. I have a 72 Mach1 that has the original door trims and window winders. I need to remove the door trim, so need to get the window winder off Is there a screw behind the metal looking disk? If it is a factory cover will it stick back on once I remove it? OR Is there a clip behind the winder, between the trim and the winder that I need long nose plyers or a tool to push in the clip for the winder to be removed? I just dont want to damage the cover if I dont need to remove it. Thanks.. Regards Brendan
  22. Thanks Geoff. Here in Australia we can have red flashing indicators, but they are so uncommon, ie only older imported cars some times have them, most people would not know the red flashing is the indicator. So I erred on the side of caution and changed to amber.
  23. I proceeded with my plan and added an extra Amber bright LED to the centre part of the tail light assembly. I then ran 2 wires and spliced them into the wires from the steering column plug as planned. I then cut the 2 tail light wires that go to the stop lights and the wire from the stop light switch and spliced them together. Now I have Amber flashing rear turn signals in the centre section visible via the clear lens and the rear stop lights no longer flash when the turn signal is on. I may add a second Amber LED on the other side of the reversing globe. Will see how they look in the dark and get the road worthy tester to confirm that the ones I have are bright enough. Here are a few short videos of the end result. Thanks for the info guys.
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