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Everything posted by bdennis

  1. David, Thanks for the info and thanks for checking. I have completed a dummy install and marked the place on the pedal where it intersects the push rod. So all good. As for the adjustment between the master cylinder and booster. It comes from Leed Brakes with the master cylinder connected to the booster. So that task is already done from the supplier.
  2. Geoff, Thanks for the info. Re the booster, Yes Im aware that it is not the original style 11"one. I would have preferred that, but no one in Australia has got a 11" unit so settled for something that is similar. Re the distance for the pin from the pivot point. Im just tripple checking before the modification is done. I was fairly sure I have the measurements right, but wanted to check. The old saying. "measure twice, cut once" comes to mind. Thanks for your help.
  3. Guys, Does anyone have the correct measurements for a 71-73 Mustang auto trans brake pedal for a car that has power assist brakes? I'm after the measurements for the distance from the centre of the top pivot point to the centre of the pin that connects to the booster push rod. Most information suggest that boosted brakes need a leverage ratio of 4:1. However, when I marked where the new pin needs to go on my non power assist pedal the distance works out to be 3:1. I calculate that the pin needs to be approx 120mm or 4.724 inches centre to centre. Here is a picture of my manual pedal. Here is a picture of the pin area. Note the scratches in the pedal at about the 120mm mark. This is where I think the pin needs to go. When I compare this to a picture I found on the Cougarparts web page, it looks about correct. If any one has the measurements, I would appreciate it. I have also emailed Cougar Parts to see if they can measure it for me. If I was in the US I would just buy a second hand pedal. However, the cost of postage to Australia is more than the value of the pedal. So I may as well just modify the one I have.
  4. Thanks Mike. Unfortunately the kit I got did not have the stud. I have arranged for a local engineering company to add a stud as that will be quicker than ordering one from the US and getting it sent to Australia. I will update once I get the pedal back.
  5. David, thanks for that. If you can send me the grommet that would be great.. I will PM you.
  6. Geoff, Yep, I have a local engineering company that can do the work for me. Just need to wait a week or so for them to clear other work before mine. It would take them no more than 30 min to do I would expect.
  7. Thanks for the link. I will do some research to see if I can find a local supplier in Australia.
  8. Thanks Tom. Im doing a mixed install. A booster and master cylinder from Leedbrakes and local (Australian 1986 Falcon) front spindles and Girlock aluminium callipers. Mainly to enable getting new pads much easier than having to get them from the US when they wear out.
  9. Im in the middle of installing a leedbrakes unit also. Looks to be a good quality unit.
  10. Guys, I'm looking to replace the old rubber grommet on the speedo cable that goes through the cowl. Other than buying a new cable to replace the existing one that is working perfectly, has anyone come up with an idea on how to replace just the grommet? Any suggestions? See my old one.
  11. Thanks for the updates guys. Tom. Thanks for the update. Yes if I could get the stud from Leeds that would be ideal. I have messaged them. I'm checking locally to see if anyone has a pedal that will work. Does anyone have a pedal they could measure the total length and spacing between the top and the pin and the total length. I know the 67-70 one is not correct and is longer and wont work.
  12. Guys, Thanks for the update. I will probably go down the route of adding the extra pin to the pedal. I installed the new booster with the pedal installed and marked with a sharpie there the pedal intersects and it is around 2 inches. I don't have a welder, but have a engineering place near me so will go and see them this morning. I assume then that the 67-70 pedal is different so wont go down that path. In terms of install, the original pedal box had captive nuts on the mount on the inside of the car that could not be removed. So I drilled out the holes to enable the bolts on the booster to pass through and then add the nuts on the inside of the car to hold it in place. At this point, I don't plan on adding a proportioning valve, but will see how it goes and if the back end locks up will add later. Thats a simple addition. Thanks for your help.
  13. Progress update on my drum to disk conversion. I have now replaced the upper and lower control arms. Rebuilt some local falcon Aluminium Girlock single piston callipers and installed them with new disks. I am now up to installing the new booster and master cylinder that a local mustang parts supplier sources from Leedbrakes in the US.. (Im in Australia). I now have an issue with the booster as the connecting rod does not connect to the old brake pedal (Factory drum brake car with no booster). it was suggested that I did not need to replace the pedal. I now know I need to.. The question is.. Is the 67 to 70 pedal the same as a 71 to 73 as scott drake dont have a power brake pedal replacement for a 71 to 73.??
  14. From the factory steel with sports caps. To some Australian made, early 1970's ROH Pro Sprint wheels. 235 / 60 / 14 on the front and 245 / 60 / 14 on the back. Next job, to replace the front drum brakes with disk.
  15. Looking good. How about getting some Australian XB GT 351 decals. These were factory fit on 1974 to 1976 Australian XB GT Falcons. Available on silver and black.
  16. Been busy.. Installed a new idiot light to tacho / idiot light conversion from RCC Innovations. Works perfectly. Then installed a new front spoiler. Very happy with the new look.
  17. Kevin, Thanks for the update. Its interesting that none of the kits that are sold either from CJ Pony, Scott Drake or MPBrakes have a replacement pedal. Given they don't come with one, I did not think a replacement was needed. Thoughts?
  18. Thanks Kevin. Does the pedal need to change? The car is an auto and is staying an auto.
  19. Thanks for the link. Probably a bit of overkill for what I'm after. I am also after a full kit with period correct booster.
  20. Thanks guys. Looks like the Booster kit from CJ Pony Parts is from MP Brakes. So same / same.. I plan on staying with either 14" or 15" wheels. So no big calipers or disks needed. Its just a cruiser not a racer. So std calipers are going to be fine.
  21. Guys, I have a H code (351 2v / FMX Auto) with factory drum front and rear brakes. I'm looking to convert the front to disk brakes and looking for a complete conversion kit that includes a booster that looks as close as possible to the factory 9" booster. I have found this kit from Master Power Brakes. - https://www.mpbrakes.com/front-brake-conversion-kit/1972-ford-mustang-legend-series-front.asp?catid=8BD4041A924D4A01B66208D7A8EADADA Has any one use this kit? It looks to be complete and uses the drum spindles. Any issues? Any other recommendations for other kits? The alternative is a Scott Drake kit. https://www.cjponyparts.com/scott-drake-front-power-disc-brake-conversion-kit-automatic-transmission-v8-mustang-1971-1973/p/DBCA134A/ This one looks very much like the MP Brakes kit. The car is a driver. Not a racer. So single piston callipers is all I need. Thoughts?
  22. They look nice but $350 for a pair.. Thats rather expensive.
  23. Hahaha.. Yeh I can imagine.. I was prepared and got a big bucket so all the drippings and pan would just drop into it. There was still instances of type F on the floor but not as much as there could have been and fortunately I did not get to taste it.. The best part was the reinstall seems to have gone well with no leaks.
  24. Removed the pan on the FMX transmission, replaced the filter, cleaned out the pan, reinstalled and refilled with trans fluid. The old oil looked nice and pink so was not worried about all the trans fluid in the torque converter and lines etc.
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