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Everything posted by bdennis

  1. For those that have the fold down rear seat option in the sports roof and dont have a space saver spare.. Do you guys still carry a full size spare? If so what do you do with it. There seems to be no room in the trunk for a full size spare? Im looking to see if a modern space saver (full size but narrow wheel and tyre) fits any better. Pictures would be handy.
  2. You can get a plug and play set up from ebay. No need to cut wires. Just add 1 wire to the positive side of the battery and connect the ground to the chassis. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/313578466549?hash=item4902bbacf5:g:DPkAAOSwe91g1LLV
  3. Steering wheel repair. The repair is not 100% perfect.. But good enough for a unrestored driver car. Dash pad was black as it had been replaced at some point. I removed it and painted it.
  4. Interesting discussion. I have a non tach dash in my 72 Mach1 H code. I added the P series 1 electronic points (black box) to mine and found that after about an hour of driving it would start to miss and carry on. Mine still has / had the original 1972 yellow top/Black coil. So have now replaced it with a after market coil (non Pertronix). The coil is one that needs an external resistor and measures 1.0 ohms across the +ve and -ve when not connected. I contacted the local supplier and as the factory wiring has the 1.3~1.4 Ohm resistor in series then all should be ok. The Pertronix optimum coil resistance is 1.5 ohms. So I effectively have 2.3ohms if I count the in line resistor. My question is.. If im still seeing issues and want to put in a genuine Pertronix coil then I need to either add a relay to avoid the in line 1.3ohm resistor or remove the resistor.. If I opt to remove the resistor, where exactly is it? Or is it just a special length of resistance wire? Of note, I have a small after market tach connected to the coil also. This may also be causing issues. I will monitor it and disconnect if I start to see problems and re test. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.
  5. Happy registration day today. After owning the car for about 4 months, I have spent a fair bit of time servicing, fixing and tuning the car getting is ready for a roadworthy check and then finally registration. Today the whole process is complete. The car now has plates and is ready to cruise..
  6. I also see the metal pipe that connects to the heat pipe in the inlet is directly connected to vacuum on the back of the inlet. On mine, the metal pipe just connects to the top of the carby to get air from the top of the carby not vacuum air like you have set up. I am not sure if that is having an impact also.
  7. Cleaned and rebuilt the Motorcraft 2100 2 barrel carby Replace the factory single system with a twin system and added some Australian Falcon XA/XB GT chrome tips. Greased the upper A arms and stopped them squeaking. Then went for a spin, tuned into the sounds of Cleveland Radio on the 351 band in stereo.
  8. Thanks for the info David. Yes they are a bit yellowed and a bit powdery. Will have a look at cleaning them up.
  9. Mike, Thanks.. I thought that may be the case. Will get a replacement stick on cover before I start.
  10. Gents, Simple question and I think I know the answer but thought I would ask. I have a 72 Mach1 that has the original door trims and window winders. I need to remove the door trim, so need to get the window winder off Is there a screw behind the metal looking disk? If it is a factory cover will it stick back on once I remove it? OR Is there a clip behind the winder, between the trim and the winder that I need long nose plyers or a tool to push in the clip for the winder to be removed? I just dont want to damage the cover if I dont need to remove it. Thanks.. Regards Brendan
  11. Thanks Geoff. Here in Australia we can have red flashing indicators, but they are so uncommon, ie only older imported cars some times have them, most people would not know the red flashing is the indicator. So I erred on the side of caution and changed to amber.
  12. I proceeded with my plan and added an extra Amber bright LED to the centre part of the tail light assembly. I then ran 2 wires and spliced them into the wires from the steering column plug as planned. I then cut the 2 tail light wires that go to the stop lights and the wire from the stop light switch and spliced them together. Now I have Amber flashing rear turn signals in the centre section visible via the clear lens and the rear stop lights no longer flash when the turn signal is on. I may add a second Amber LED on the other side of the reversing globe. Will see how they look in the dark and get the road worthy tester to confirm that the ones I have are bright enough. Here are a few short videos of the end result. Thanks for the info guys.
  13. To update this toping. I have found a small T10 Wedge type socket that I will insert a bright Amber LED into and drill a hole in the tail light housing and add the extra light to the centre section of the tail light. This will avoid having to cut the wires for the reversing light and keep the wiring separate.
  14. David, Thanks for your comments.. I had forgotten that if I feed the 2 extra wires from the front indicator wires and not change the wires for the stop lights then the rear brake lights would still flash. Option A: I need to do both your suggestion of basically joining wire 16 from the stock switch to the 2 wires that go to the rear stop lights (wires 5 and 9). This will effectively remove the stop lights from the turn signal switch assembly. This will stop the rear brake lights flashing.. AND. Add the 2 extra wires I need from front indicators to the back of the car per my original post and add the diodes then that would work. OR.. Option B Cut wire16 from the plug on the back of the stop switch, run a single wire to the back of the car and connect to the stop light wires at the back of the car. Cut wire 9 and 5 on the back of the rear tail light assembly and use those 2 wires as the new indicator wires and use the diodes as per my original plan. Either way at least 1 wire if not 2 need to be pulled through into the trunk. Both options mean that wires need to be cut and diodes added. The alternative to the diode and limiting more cutting of wires, is to get a super bright Yellow 12v LED and drill a hole in the reversing section of the tail light and add the LED into the assembly and keep the indicator and reversing circuits separate. I think I will investigate this as an additional option.
  15. Thanks for the tip. I checked the LED tail lights at CJ Pony parts. They only make the lights brighter and they dont appear to change the turn signal to yellow. They look like they retain the red colour to be flashing for turn signals.
  16. Guys, As I live in Australia, all cars, even those built as far back as the 50's on onwards, have yellow rear turn signals. The red flashing stop / tail light set up is basically an unknown thing here. I'm concerned that people (especially those new to driving and those in a hurry) will not recognise the red flashing tail lights as a turn signal and at some point run up the back of me. Early 70's Ford's and other makes had yellow turn signals separate to the stop / tail light. These yellow turn signals were both illuminated when the car is put into reverse. My plan is to change out the clear reversing globes in the centre clear section of the rear tail lights for yellow globes and use those for both reversing and turn signals. I have a 72 wiring diagram and have studied it closely. The key issue is that the place where the turn signal and stop lamp wiring is combined is in the switch mechanism in the column behind the steering wheel. It would be complicated to change this I believe.. My plan is to locate the 2 wires that connect to the 2 front turn signals / lights that are located under the front bumper between the plug on the column and the plug that goes through the cowl. (Wire numbers 2 and 3). I plan to splice into these wires and run 2 wires to the back of the car. Once I reach the rear light assemblies, I plan to use a pair of diodes on both the turn signal wire and the reversing wire (to stop any feedback) and then connect the diode to the wire that connects to the reversing globe (that I will change from clear to yellow). Finally to my question: Has anyone else completed this conversion and if so, how has it been done? Like my plan above or another way? Any info would be appreciated. Regards Brendan.
  17. I put a new seal in mine (no holes) and adjusted the catch. It takes a bit of a push, note quite a slam to get it to close. Nice and tight seal on mine. I have not added any glue / silicone to mine. Fits into the channel fairly well. If rubbed or knocked it will pop out, but I just put up with it and push it back in place.
  18. As I live in Australia and our design rules require lap sash belts to be installed in the rear seats from 1972 onwards, I needed to find a solution for the install. My Mach 1 has the fold down rear seat option and I did not want to have belts laying around when the rear seat was folded down. I came up with a solution with the assistance of a local seat belt manufacturer. They have a product that they use for MG sports cars where one end of the belt clips in via an eye bolt. This was the perfect solution for what I was trying to achieve. I fortunately found a hole behind the sail panel that was perfect for installing the sash part of the belt anchor point / eye bolt. The seat belt set comes with a eye bolt and plate with a nut welded to the plate. The eye bolt is painted the same colour as the trim. It will probably chip over time if the belt is used often. But I dont plan on using it. Here is a few pictures of the install. My next task is to source another set of rear plastic trims and replace them as mine are fairly sad looking. Or repair them.
  19. Hey Mel. Am in Sunbury. Good luck with the build. I will be keeping mine stock and unrestored and just a driver. Mine has its original sports wheel covers but I do like the 12 slot look. Please keep us posted re your progress.
  20. David, perfect.. Thanks. Yes the column is black, the sides of the centre part of the dash next to the radio and heater is ginger, the stock wheel is ginger and the belts were black before I removed them. I have some colour matched spray paint. So may pull it out and spray the dash pad I have.. If I stuff it up I could always order a ginger one from Scott Drake. I have already picked up a small black centre console and have painted it and the colour is fairly good. I'm also looking at trying to repair the back plastics and will use the same paint so things in the car will be fairly matching. The chances of my car sitting next to another ginger interior car here in Australia are very low.. So as long as the interior generally matches to each other then I will be happy.
  21. Looking for some info from the brains trust. I have a July 72 Mach 1 Sports roof that is gold glow with standard ginger trim. The car currently has a black dash pad but the steering wheel is ginger and some dash parts, ie beside the radio and the metal dash part near the windscreen are ginger. (Per this picture.) I keep an eye on facebook and youtube in terms of 71-73 Mustangs and have seen 2 recently that have standard ginger trim and both have ginger dash pads. I have had the current dash pad out and it has a cast mark in it on the under side that suggests that it is a reproduction ... chila Mustang or something like that. Also the retaining bolts all look to have been tightened in a different place compared to when the car was built. ie I can see where the nuts were and has since moved. Here are some pics of 2 other cars with a ginger dash. The 1st one is a 73 and a coupe and the second is a sports roof Mach 1. But both have standard trim. So the question is.. Should the dash pad be ginger? I'm thinking it should. Any advice would be appreciated.
  22. In terms of the light not working. It could be as simple as the globe is blown in the dash or the contacts need cleaning on both the globe and the plastic twist in globe holder. I would start with a small file and just clean the contacts on both parts to see if that fixes your issue.
  23. Hey guys, I'm looking for Rear interior plastics for sports roof with fold down seat. So both the large plastic trim pieces that are beside and behind the back fold down seat. Looking for a total of 4 panels 2 parts on the left and 2 on the right as circled. My car has standard trim and is ginger, but don't care what colour the plastics are as I will paint them to suit if they are not ginger. Not looking for the reproduction, looking for parts that are in good condition and not cracked / broken / chalky to replace sun damaged panels in my car. I'm in Australia so plan to get the panels shipped to a friend of a friend in the US to then put in the trunk of a car that will then be shipped to Australia. Postage for such large odd shaped panels would be prohibitive.
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