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giantpune last won the day on May 29

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  1. Yep, major butthole move on them for not showing the watermark in the product description.
  2. the radiator mounting brackets should give you a pretty good idea of it. They bolt to the front crossmember and to the radiator support. When I installed mine, I made it so the radiator brackets fit in snug between those two pieces.
  3. Is this like the jellybean game or the price is right showcase? Whoever guesses closest without going over wins the car?
  4. I don't follow you here. When I put my car together, I dropped in a motor and some headers and then clamped on some 3" turndowns to the end of the headers and drove it around like that for a week till I could get it to the muffler shop. One of the best weeks of my life. :D
  5. When mine got totalled years ago, the insurance company valued it at like $4k. Even with a brand new everything under the hood. Crate motor, exhaust, brakes, transmission, radiator, and receipts for everything. The interior was all original deluxe trim and still in good shape. I bought it back from them with the agreement they didn't salvage the title. I had the frame straightened and replaced all the suspension and whatnot. This time around, I was trying to put full coverage on it. I told them insure it for $24k and it was undergoing a slow restoration. They won't insure it for that much without a bill of sale or an appraisal saying its worth that much. They say the average value of a 1973 mustang is about $8500, so thats what they will insure it for. They don't take into consideration if its a mach 1 or an inline 6 coupe.
  6. Not yet!!! Dont let the value on these go up. I need to buy another one first!
  7. Mine is an aluminum one. It says "northern" on the side of it. Its been a while since I installed it, so I can't tell you exactly which part number. It does not have fittings to hook up the automatic transmission, but I prefer to use an external transmission cooler anyways. I run electric fans in a shroud I bought a decade after the radiator itself, and it happened to also be from "northern".
  8. When I got my car, it was in a field with everything under the hood gone. I guess you could say the last guy who had it did all the vacuum delete for me. I put the car together 1 piece at a time. Crate 351 long block, edlebrock intake, holley carb, C4 transmission I had kicking around. As far as vacuum goes, I have a fitting in the intake manifold running the large hose directly to the power brake booster. Aftermarket carbs have one or more places to connect to pull vacuum from manifold or ported. Its a 4 hour conversation if you want to run your distributor from ported or manifold vacuum. There are guys who feel strongly both ways. And you can tune a car and get good performance no matter which strategy you go with. Whichever one you choose, plug the hose from your distributor to that port on the carb. The distributor I used has the retard port on it and I just left that capped. On our automatic transmissions, there's a vacuum line going to the transmission modulator. It needs to be connected to full manifold vacuum. You can tee it in to your distributor line if that one is also using manifold vacuum and you dont have any more ports on the carb. Then I have the big port on the back of the carb running to the PCV fitting on one valve cover. Other valve cover is pulling filtered air from the air cleaner. My car does not have the heater hooked up. I'll be using an aftermarket AC, so I dont think those vacuum lines will be necessary. My ram air kit is not installed. When I do put it on, I reckon it'll need manifold vacuum, so I'll tee off an existing line if I don't have a free port.
  9. Interesting. I recently did my radiator support and didn't even think to use my HF spot welder. I have the 110 version, still unopened in the box from a year ago. I keep forgetting I have it. I picked up a bottle of gas and use the HF mig/tig/stick welder. I did the ol' drill, weld, grind, paint routine. It came out pretty good. Does the spot welder burn through the paint or do you need to grind anything to bare metal first? And do you need any special arms or contact points for it?
  10. Yep, the numbers the thing puts out are very dependent on the type of dyno it is and the person running it. The numbers can be affected by the operator and their technique, whether on purpose or on accident. Here's one example of a bone stock car, taken to a handful of different shops and getting a 10% fluctuation in HP numbers. Still a fun guessing game to play.
  11. One life changing tool for the DIYer is a vacuum fluid extractor. The one at harbor freight even does great. You can drain your engine oil and transmission fluid out through their dipstick tubes.
  12. I'd go with a reputable shop who's been around a while and offers a warranty. Around my area, its about $1k for a shop that's licensed, bonded, and insured to pull the transmission, rebuild it, reinstall it, and warranty it for 2yr/24k miles or something around there. If you want, they'll install a shift kit in it during the rebuild and it'll hit harder when it shifts.
  13. Do you know what type of dyno it is - inertia or load dyno? With that intake and having the AC compressor removed and that huge power drain of a windshield wiper motor removed, I'm leaning closer to 280HP if its a load dyno.
  14. What's the status of your accessories? Belt driver water pump, power steering pump, AC compressor, and alternator with standard ratio pulleys? Electric fan or still on your water pump? And I take it the mechanical fuel pump is gone due to needing electric pump for the sniper system? And is it the factory intake manifold? the guesses I'm seeing are a lot higher than I'd give it. I'm thinking closer to 240HP at the rear wheels, assuming factory intake manifold and all the normal accessories besides the fuel pump on the motor.
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