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Everything posted by giantpune

  1. Yep, major butthole move on them for not showing the watermark in the product description.
  2. the radiator mounting brackets should give you a pretty good idea of it. They bolt to the front crossmember and to the radiator support. When I installed mine, I made it so the radiator brackets fit in snug between those two pieces.
  3. Is this like the jellybean game or the price is right showcase? Whoever guesses closest without going over wins the car?
  4. I don't follow you here. When I put my car together, I dropped in a motor and some headers and then clamped on some 3" turndowns to the end of the headers and drove it around like that for a week till I could get it to the muffler shop. One of the best weeks of my life. :D
  5. When mine got totalled years ago, the insurance company valued it at like $4k. Even with a brand new everything under the hood. Crate motor, exhaust, brakes, transmission, radiator, and receipts for everything. The interior was all original deluxe trim and still in good shape. I bought it back from them with the agreement they didn't salvage the title. I had the frame straightened and replaced all the suspension and whatnot. This time around, I was trying to put full coverage on it. I told them insure it for $24k and it was undergoing a slow restoration. They won't insure it for that much without a bill of sale or an appraisal saying its worth that much. They say the average value of a 1973 mustang is about $8500, so thats what they will insure it for. They don't take into consideration if its a mach 1 or an inline 6 coupe.
  6. Not yet!!! Dont let the value on these go up. I need to buy another one first!
  7. Mine is an aluminum one. It says "northern" on the side of it. Its been a while since I installed it, so I can't tell you exactly which part number. It does not have fittings to hook up the automatic transmission, but I prefer to use an external transmission cooler anyways. I run electric fans in a shroud I bought a decade after the radiator itself, and it happened to also be from "northern".
  8. When I got my car, it was in a field with everything under the hood gone. I guess you could say the last guy who had it did all the vacuum delete for me. I put the car together 1 piece at a time. Crate 351 long block, edlebrock intake, holley carb, C4 transmission I had kicking around. As far as vacuum goes, I have a fitting in the intake manifold running the large hose directly to the power brake booster. Aftermarket carbs have one or more places to connect to pull vacuum from manifold or ported. Its a 4 hour conversation if you want to run your distributor from ported or manifold vacuum. There are guys who feel strongly both ways. And you can tune a car and get good performance no matter which strategy you go with. Whichever one you choose, plug the hose from your distributor to that port on the carb. The distributor I used has the retard port on it and I just left that capped. On our automatic transmissions, there's a vacuum line going to the transmission modulator. It needs to be connected to full manifold vacuum. You can tee it in to your distributor line if that one is also using manifold vacuum and you dont have any more ports on the carb. Then I have the big port on the back of the carb running to the PCV fitting on one valve cover. Other valve cover is pulling filtered air from the air cleaner. My car does not have the heater hooked up. I'll be using an aftermarket AC, so I dont think those vacuum lines will be necessary. My ram air kit is not installed. When I do put it on, I reckon it'll need manifold vacuum, so I'll tee off an existing line if I don't have a free port.
  9. Interesting. I recently did my radiator support and didn't even think to use my HF spot welder. I have the 110 version, still unopened in the box from a year ago. I keep forgetting I have it. I picked up a bottle of gas and use the HF mig/tig/stick welder. I did the ol' drill, weld, grind, paint routine. It came out pretty good. Does the spot welder burn through the paint or do you need to grind anything to bare metal first? And do you need any special arms or contact points for it?
  10. Yep, the numbers the thing puts out are very dependent on the type of dyno it is and the person running it. The numbers can be affected by the operator and their technique, whether on purpose or on accident. Here's one example of a bone stock car, taken to a handful of different shops and getting a 10% fluctuation in HP numbers. Still a fun guessing game to play.
  11. One life changing tool for the DIYer is a vacuum fluid extractor. The one at harbor freight even does great. You can drain your engine oil and transmission fluid out through their dipstick tubes.
  12. I'd go with a reputable shop who's been around a while and offers a warranty. Around my area, its about $1k for a shop that's licensed, bonded, and insured to pull the transmission, rebuild it, reinstall it, and warranty it for 2yr/24k miles or something around there. If you want, they'll install a shift kit in it during the rebuild and it'll hit harder when it shifts.
  13. Do you know what type of dyno it is - inertia or load dyno? With that intake and having the AC compressor removed and that huge power drain of a windshield wiper motor removed, I'm leaning closer to 280HP if its a load dyno.
  14. What's the status of your accessories? Belt driver water pump, power steering pump, AC compressor, and alternator with standard ratio pulleys? Electric fan or still on your water pump? And I take it the mechanical fuel pump is gone due to needing electric pump for the sniper system? And is it the factory intake manifold? the guesses I'm seeing are a lot higher than I'd give it. I'm thinking closer to 240HP at the rear wheels, assuming factory intake manifold and all the normal accessories besides the fuel pump on the motor.
  15. Mine had a similar rattle to what you describe. Turned out to be the battery tray come a bit loose and made noise every time the passenger side of the car went over a bump. I tried several time to get the car up in the air and jiggle things to track down what was making the noise. I sat in the car and had a buddy rattle everything he could get his hands on - inner fenders, hood, fenders, splash shields, wheel, grille, emergency brake cable - to see if any of them made that sound. He made a lot of sounds but none of them were the right one. I considered mounting a goPro under the car and recording while I went over bumps. And after that, I was going to start taking off the hood and fenders and any other part of the car I could, piece by piece until the noise went away. Another thing you can do is roll your windows down and try to find a place close to a wall to drive so the sound will bounce back at you. This is helpful in determining which side of the car its coming from, and if its front or rear. If you have a buddy and a rough parking lot, have them stick their head out the window or pop the trunk and have them ride in the trunk and listen out over the edge of the car and see which side it making the noise. It just turned out that I was replacing the radiator support and while I was tearing the front of the car apart, I put my hand on the battery and rocked it back and forth and found my culprit.
  16. If you suspect a vacuum leak, you can do the carb cleaner check. Spray that around the intake manifold and vacuum hoses while its running and see if the idle changes. If needed, you can turn your idle screw up a bit to get it running smooth while you try this. Grab a timing light with a tach on it and a vacuum gauge. Check your timing and adjust your idle mix and adjust them for the most vacuum. Hard to say for sure what went wrong if you weren't around when it died to notice any weird smoke or sounds.
  17. In my family, cars get driven. I enjoy my classic cars much more driving them than keeping them parked and just repeatedly washing them. Mine are driver quality. I dont have to worry about putting the first dent in them or beating them up a bit. That ship has sailed long ago. I wasn't one of those kids who left his toys in the wrapper sitting an the shelf, either.
  18. Call this an educated guess...heat rises. So I'd say you'd want to send cooler fluid from the bottom line back to the radiator. And have it dump more hot fluid in through the top line. Similar to how the water cycles through the engine and radiator.
  19. This is how I did mine years back. And If I had to do it over, I'd do the same thing. Hard lines running where they were designed to go. They stay put and everything clears them.
  20. Ok, so I ordered a bunch of sheet metal. By the time you count shipping and tax, the 15% off actually turned out to be 19.9% off. For some reason, my shipping went from $350 to $145. However it worked out, the shipping cost was a lot less, but not free. The search on their website does kinda stink. It took a little while to figure out how to get at what I wanted.
  21. I'm in the middle of replacing my radiator support. The old one is being replaced because the car was wrecked and the passenger side of it was fubar. Before I did any cutting, I made a lot of measurements and markings for where everything lined up. Then once I got everything unbolted and ready to start cutting, I noticed all the welds looked pretty ugly. Like somebody in the past had already replaced this thing and did about a B-rate job of it. Anyways, I get the old one out of there and grinded down everything and start fitting the new one. The new one drops into place and fits pretty well, except the most of the features along the top of it are shifted to one side 1/4-1/2" as compared to the one that came out of it. Being that the old one was a bit of a hack job to begin with, and then it was wrecked, I don't fully trust the measurements that I got off it. I really don't want to go cutting up the new one to force it to match the measurements from the old one if it was wrong. Can somebody point me to a set of good measurements for the radiator support? Like how far from each side is that center hole on the top supposed to be? And for a sanity check, how much space should be between the radiator support and the firewall/cowl?
  22. Oh yeah. I ordered my gas tank kit from them a month or two back. They've been sending me emails about that 15% off. And ive been meaning to pick up a bunch of sheet metal parts. Guess i'll see if they'll make good on the discount when i order half a cars worth of dynacorn panels. :D
  23. I'm looking for a number of parts for my 73 mach 1. Inner splash shield for the passenger fender. The sheet metal that forms the frame for the windshield. Mine is rusted all the way around. I guess you'd call those the A pillars? OEM painted fender extensions and hood trim OEM side marker lights for front right and rear left I prefer UPS and fedex. USPS is too slow to be useful.
  24. Ironically, marti does not keep very good records of who they've sold report to. I ordered a marti report some years ago. Then managed to lose it. When I contacted marti last month to lee if they'd send a replacement, they were unable to even start looking me up in the computer. Neither by name, address, email, or VIN.
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