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Everything posted by giantpune

  1. Last week, I ordered the CD with the 6 ford assembly manuals. UPS man delivered it today. On the CD, there are 6 pdf files with the manuals and helpful pictures and information. Unfortunately, the folks who made them put a huge stinking watermark of their company name over every single page. On some pages, the watermark obscures the information I actually wanted to see. The pages could already be a bit tough to read to begin with. The huge diagonal banner wasn't helping. I whipped up a bash 1-liner that takes each PDF file, decompresses it, and changes the opacity of the watermark. It makes the thing much easier to read and see the pictures now. I figured it would be helpful to anybody else who'd gotten these. Obviously, you have to copy them off your CD before you can edit them. Bash command I made for my computer running linux with pdftk, all free and open source software. Changes it from 50% transparent to 99% transparent. find . -maxdepth 1 -name \*.pdf -exec sh -c "mkdir tmp ; pdftk '{}' output tmp/uncompressed.pdf uncompress && sed -e 's/^0.5 g$/0.99 g/g' tmp/uncompressed.pdf > 'unwatermarked/{}' && rm -rf tmp" \; Before and after.
  2. You're supposed to play it casual. Just get out and lean against your fender with your foot up and your collar popped looking cool. Don't let them know you broke down.
  3. I've got a few rednecks and bubba's in my family. I can remember riding around in a beater pickup with one of my uncles. In this particular truck, instead of a gas pedal and throttle cable, he had a piece of speaker cable running from the engine bay into the cockpit with a hairbrush tied to the end of the wire. Pull the hairbrush to go. I don't believe this one was a ford.
  4. Depends on the drill. Most of them these days have little fans inside that are directly spun by the motor. The faster you run the motor, the more air they pull through to cool them off. And drills that have electronics inside like brushless motors as mosfets also have thermal sensors and will cut themselves off before they overheat and start burning up the electric bits. If you run these drills slower, you'll trip the thermal cutoff sooner than if you ran it wide open. I do think you're right about if you pulled out the corded craftsman drill you got from your great grandpappy.
  5. I made it up to the local auto parts store today. They had a couple in stock that fit without any sort of adapters. One of the bosch ones and one of the rain-x ones. The rainx ones were more universal and the junction where all the different pivots connects was a big plastic brick. The bosch ones don't look so silly, so I went with those.
  6. This whole mess came about from your distributor breaking and you having to replace it. So you've already got to mess with reinstalling the distributor and setting your timing. I vote yank the distributor off and use a drill and the tool to spin the oil pump and prime the system. Its not that much more work. Maybe while you have the pan off, you can use your access to the pistons to verify you're at true TDC and make sure your timing mark is accurate. That always helps me feel better about loosening or removing the distributor. Knowing that when you put it on, you can trust your timing marks.
  7. Thank you. You were correct. And I solved the mystery of why the motor just happened to start working last night. The motor is grounded through a brass strap and a metal grommet attached to one of its mounting screws. I used the trusty multimeter and discovered that there was continuity from the motor's case to the brass strap. But then even though the grommet is contacting the brass strap with a pretty significant amount of surface area, my continuity stopped there. I pulled those parts apart and found some corrosion which was apparently enough to stop the flow of electrons. I guess when that area got wet in the rain, the water completed the circuit and allowed the thing to ground and the motor to work. I spent some quality time with the ground strap, the grommet, and a power sander and made it back down to bare metal. Then flipped the arm on the motor 180 degrees. And now the wipers behave as they should. I still need to track down some new blades. Whatever ones are the best of the best, spare no expense.
  8. So as long as I've had my car, decades plural, the wipers have never ever worked. At one point, I replaced the motor. Then I replaced the switch. They still never worked. Even today and yesterday, I was playing with the switch while driving around and the wipers didn't do anything. Then tonight I decided to take the car for a drive to go get some chicken wings. Its raining outside and its dark, so I figured I'd try the switch for the 300th time. As expected, the wipers didn't budge. I turned the switch off and headed for the chicken wings. Then a few minutes later, out of nowhere, my wipers rose like lazarus and made their way to the fully up and left position and just sat there. After that, I'm able to turn on the switch and they go back and forth, and always come back to a rest in the full left position after I tern the switch off. It looks like the wiper blades are shot. And now that the wipers work, maybe I have an excuse to replace them. Are there any that work better for our cars than all the other ones? After not having them for so long, I'm inclined to "Treat Yo Self" and buy the very best wiper blades money can buy. And my driver's side wiper has 2 arms and the smaller of them is disconnected or broken down from the base. So the blade flops around a bit. I'll have to look at it when its lighter and not raining out to see if its something I can fix or have to replace it.
  9. The two thinner pieces to the right kinda look like they were designed to capture a nut and keep it from spinning. More pictures would help. Do the smaller parts on the right look like chunks of gear teeth? Either way, thats weight reduction. Dont look a gift horse in the mouth. :)
  10. Not to completely hijack the thread, but I have a similar situation. I have a new wiper switch in my dash. Turning it n does nothing. The wiper motor was replaced in the car years ago, but has never worked. Suspecting maybe the wiring that's to blame. The wires at the wiper motor are the easiest to get to. Does anybody know which ones to measure across to test for voltage when the wiper switch is turned on?
  11. How about the 69 and 70 mustangs? And I had a 72 comet/maverick mashup car that had a factory hood scoop. Those came with their own "nostril" type of scoops as well as one larger one in the middle.
  12. Does the transmission shift as expected if you put it in the positions for first gear and then drive and bump it up to second gear around 15-20mph? The vacuum modulator should get you shifting gears if its hooked directly to manifold vacuum. At least for diagnostic purposes, you can skip all the extra valves and junctions.
  13. I got in the door yesterday and started tweaking things. Like @mjseakan mentioned, there was a slot in the bottom-middle of the door with a bolt in it to adjust. I rolled the window down to where I thought it should stop, then loosened that bolt up and butted that stop up against the regulator arm and tightened it in place. There are similar stops on the top corners of the door to adjust how the window sits when its up, but I didn't need to touch mine. And the felt covered parts you're talking about, I loosened their bolts, and they can rotate which makes them move closer and further from the glass. I adjusted mine so they press the window towards the rubber seal, but not so much they caused excess drag. Then tightened their bolts down. While I was in the door, I spread some wheel bearing grease on the parts that move. Everything in there was bone dry and rubbing and grinding a bit.
  14. I build my own computers, too. Last time I bought a CD drive was a lightscribe DVD burner around 2004. It was back when stores still sold spools of blank CDs to put in them. Those things have pretty much gone the way of the 8track player. Anyways, the manuals sound like they're worth having, even if i have to pony up the $20 for a cd drive to use one time. I got the cds added to my shopping cart.
  15. Its a CD? Ha! Thats almost as classic as our cars. I may have to buy a usb CD drive, as none of our computers even come with a CD slot anymore. Thanks for the link, though. That gets me on the right track.
  16. Ok. So I do have those in the door and mine have the felt on them. Those are one of the things my glass is bouncing between. My windows roll down far enough that the glass goes down into the doors and below the weatherstripping and rubber seals at the top of the door. That allows the glass to bounce around.
  17. Does the factory antenna unscrew and then that little stubby one screw in its place? I don't listen to the radio, so it doesn't really matter if the stubby gets worse reception. As long as it fills the spot there and looks like it kinda belongs. There is one made by scott drake which is shorter than the 4ft long factory one and looks a little bit more muscle-car-ish. https://www.drakeautomotivegroup.com/68-73-billet-antenna-c8zz-18813-bl
  18. Could just be the angle and the different colors of patina playing tricks. But to me, the insert looks kinda trashed. Is the front outer corner of it sitting down fully? It kinda looks bent there or somehow obstructed so its not sitting down into the hood far enough. For reference, here's mine. Original scoop insert with extra layers of primer and paint on top of a couple different paint jobs over the years. Its sitting in an aftermarket hood. I couldn't get a great photo because its dark outside.
  19. I'm starting to chase down all the different sounds my car makes and get them squared away. Some of those noises are coming from the doors. Every time I hit a bump, the doors make a bunch of noise. With the driver's panel off and the window rolled down, I can see the glass is rocking distal and proximal. On the inside of the glass, there's some little arms with some thin black foam. From there, it rocks outwards about an inch and the glass smacks the outer skin of the door. What sort of parts are supposed to be in there to keep the glass from flopping around like this? I'm not certain if there's supposed to be something else inside the door to block it, or perhaps my window regulator allows the window to roll down further than normal. If the top edge of the window is not below the weather strip, then that would prevent the glass from moving around so much.
  20. Whew. I pretty much got the switch installed now. Between that 17C443 box and the fuse box sitting behind it, there was no room to work. The wires are not long enough to plug in the connector and then pull the switch back far enough to line it up and install it through the hole. And If I install the switch fully, I didn't have enough room to work to get the connector twisted around and oriented correctly and press it on. I was able to get it by sticking the tip of the switch rod through its hole and while the switch was still loose, press the connector on its back and then feed the whole thing through the hole and get it sinched down. From your picture, I'm missing parts 17A426 and 17531. I see they sell reproduction knobs. What is the first part? Is it just a tool to install the retaining nut?
  21. Y'all bear with me here. Every since I've had my car, I've not had wipers. I just rainex it and drive it like that. I have the hole where the wiper switch is supposed to go. I have a new wiper switch plugged into the connector and that whole thing is just dangling. I also have a light bulb that I assume is supposed to be mounted around it somewhere to illuminate it when the headlights are on. I've stared at this switch and the hole in the dash for longer than I want to admit and I'm still unsure of how the switch and connector are meant to be in the dash. Can somebody post some pictures and/or instructions for this? Does it install from underneath or do I need to take out the tach and speedometer and go in from above? Don't be afraid to dumb to down for me. You won't hurt my feelings on this one.
  22. Are the 2 missing ends of the roll pin perhaps still stuck in their holes in the gear? Maybe you got lucky and the pin snapped, but the distributor gear held onto the ends so they didn't go flying.
  23. Where does the roll pin end up when it sheers off? If my math is correct, both ends of it have to snap off for the gear to spin freely on the shaft. There would be at least 2 parts of metal falling down and hitting the distributor gear, possibly the cam gear, and then do they make it down into your oil pan? Those parts of metal by themselves may be small enough to get sucked into an oil pump. And they may get chewed up on their way down there and become even smaller and break into more than 2 pieces.
  24. Sweet. I'll give them a call after the holiday weekend. Their price sheet says 65-70 mustangs. Hopefully they know how to do the 71-73, too. :D Their page says they expect the interior, glass, and gas tank to be gutted. So I guess that means I can't drive it to them. It'll have to be stripped down and trailered up there.
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