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giantpune

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Everything posted by giantpune

  1. I have some mystery connectors flopping around in the space where my radio once was. There's also a connector or two hanging down from that radio area to where the gas pedal is. The car is a 73 mach 1 with factory air. First connector is square and what looks like orange with green hash, black with light blue hash, and a white or light blue. The orange+green and black+blue wires head left back behind the gauge cluster and over towards the driver fender. I'm guessing this could be the door speaker connector. Second connector is 3 in a row. Its a little longer and could possibly extend down to the AC/heater controls. I see green, green and yellow, and black with blue. Based on the wire colors, this might have something to do with the map light? Third connector is 2. It looks like blue with a pink stripe and white with a pink stripe. I think this may be power and illumination for the radio? Fourth connector is hanging down by the gas pedal. Its 3 in a row. I see black, blue/pink, green, and yellow wires. I did find some oddball knob and green connector down here that had a tag that said D2SA 18972-BA. Looks like that goes to some ford fader/speaker control. Was that a factory installed item or something aftermarket by ford? The knob seems in a weird place to come like that off the assembly line. Hopefully somebody can help identify what the wires are for. I'm also interested if there's a mating pigtail to each one which would allow me to plug directly into them and add an aftermarket radio without having to cut the existing wires up.
  2. I got one of these made in Taiwan aftermarket kits. Maybe its just the one I got or maybe its my technique, but the way the nostrils on the hood fit up to the ram air plenum is garbage. The plenum itself screws to the hood fine and all the holes line up. Its the 2 ram air inserts on the outside of the hood. Mine are factory hood inserts and they had the factory blockoff plates in them that I removed. I'm gonna need some flex seal or air duct tape on the joints where everything comes together with the Taiwanese ram air kit. Somewhat related, can somebody explain how the kit is supposed to work a bit? Right out of the box, the shutters inside mine are open. With no vacuum applied, they are fully open. Does that mean when you hook this up and your car is parked and the engine is not running and making vacuum, these stay open? And do you just hook the hose from the flappers straight to ported vacuum on the carburetor?
  3. I had a 95 GT. I had "hard wired" in a wire for the dash cam. It was powered when the key was on. I used ane of those add-a-fuse things. Pull out some existing fuse that's powered on with the key, install the add-a-fuse, and then install your original fuse.
  4. I would look inside the trunk. Should be pretty easy to tell if your rear quarter panels are original to the car or somebody welded on a fastback onto a convertible. I'd look for other "mach 1" features like the honeycomb grille/rear panel, color matched bumper, color matched racing mirrors, gas cap, variable ratio steering box, staggered rear shocks. You could also look for "convertible" features. I never had one myself. But I believe the part is called the support plate. On convertible cars, its at the very bottom of the car under the rear tail of the transmission. If a car has this, or you can tell one was installed for a few decades, it may be a clue for you.
  5. I have a 351w in my '73. The headers are "summit" brand, ordered from summit racing. I guess they count as long tube. They had a 3-bolt collector flange that extended down around the transmission.
  6. I just did the gas tank in my 73 this weekend. For getting old fuel out, the easiest way is to remove the hose clamp on the driver's side at the bottom of the tank and pull the rubber hose off the outlet to the tank. Be ready to catch the gas as it comes pouring out. Slightly less easy, but less messy, is pumping or siphoning. Open the trunk and remove the fuel filler neck. Then I dropped a 4ft length of clear tubing down in the tank. Put your finger over the end of the tube and slowly pull it out. Once you get it out far enough, you can take your finger off the end and suction will start draining gas out of the tank. As long as the end of the tube inside the tank is under the surface of the gas, it'll keep dumping out. You can also disconnect the vapor hose in front of the tank before you start dropping it. You don't need to stop half way through the process and try to wiggle your hand up to the top of the tank to get the hose loose there. The hose is about 18" long. I disconnected the connection at the hard line and dropped the tank with that hose attached to it. Worry about unhooking the hose from the top of the tank once you get it on the ground.
  7. I'm in the process of bringing my 73 mach1 back to life. It has power brakes, discs up front and drums in the rear. The brake system is somewhat pieced together and I suspect its not entirely correct. The master cylinder has a power brake booster and 2 pools under the lid and 2 outlets. The front pool is smaller and the rear pool is about 3-4x larger capacity. The front outlet is threaded 1/2-20 and the rear outlet is 7/16-24. My proportioning valve, I'm pretty sure was pulled from a 72 mustang with 4 wheel drums. It has a 1/2-20 inlet which I believe feeds 1 line going back to the back of the car. It has a 7/16-24 inlet, which I believe is feeding 2 lines, one to each front wheel. Does this proportioning valve sound like a correct part for front disc and rear drum setup? Which outlets from the master cylinder connect to which inlets on the proportioning valve? I have the parts here to make lines connecting the two. Just want to double check that I connect the correct stuff. If I decide down the road to install some aftermarket rear brakes, are the disc/drum proportioning valve and hard lines good to go or do you have to run a different valve and/or new lines? My proportioning valve looks like this one https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/16950/31013/distribution-block-power-disc-brake-repro-1967-mercury-cougar-/-1967-ford-mustang.html What's got me scratching my head is the way its oriented in the car, on that proportioning valve, the front brake connections are on the front and the rear brake connections are closer to the firewall. However, I was under the impression that on the master cylinder, the pool and fitting closer to the firewall was the front brakes. It just seemed odd to have to cross the lines coming from the master cylinder to the proportioning valve.
  8. Here she is as she sits today. Like I said, when I got it, there was nothing under the hood. So as I was buying parts 15-20yr ago, it was easier and cheaper to find performance parts rather than factory. I ended up with a 1969 remanufactured long block 351w, edlebrock performer intake, holley 4 barrel carb, aluminum radiator, underdrive pulleys, headers to dual exhaust, and a rebuilt C4 with a shift kit in it. I did most of the mechanical stuff already like brakes, suspension, steering. But given that last time I drove it, the guy pulled out in front of me and I couldn't stop fast enough, I'm really considering looking to upgrade my front discs and swap the rear over to discs. New gas tank with the sending unit and straps and stuff is sitting here in my living room. Waiting on the fedex man to bring the filler neck and vapor fitting before everything can go in. Rims and tires are styled like the newer mach1 wheels. Interior is still pretty much the original stuff. Its usable but not gonna win any awards. My current plan is get it back on the road and drive it around a bit and fix the little things as they come up to make it road worthy. Then swing by a body shop and see how much its going to run me to get all the body work done and get it looking right.
  9. I'm looking for the square bezels that go around the headlights on a 1973 mustang. Specifically looking for the black ones for a mach1. But i can make due with silver ones for now.
  10. HI guys. I just stumbled on this forum. My car is a 73 mach 1. Bought it back when I was in highschool, sitting in a field with no motor or transmission for a whopping $600. It took me a few years to get it running, but eventually we got there. I drove it for several years and it got me through college and even did alright delivering pizzas for dominos. I ended up wrecking it when some guy pulled out in front of me. Bent the frame, totaled it, and I bought it back from the insurance company. I straightened the frame on it and replaced all the suspension and steering bits and some of the body. Life got in the way and the car sat for the past 9 or 10 years. I recently pulled the old girl out of the garage from under all the layers of junk and dust to get her going again. Replaced the carb and gas tank. Toyed with the timing and a couple other things and the engine fired right up. Thats about where I'm at now. She's running, I paid the 9 years back taxes and late fees and got tags. I'm waiting for the vapor fitting to arrive so I can get the gas tank up in her. I've ordered some parts from cjponyparts. And I'm scouring the internet trying to find some of the parts you can't buy, like the 73 bumper and headlight bezels.
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