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Steve McMahan

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About Steve McMahan

  • Birthday 09/19/1956

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    SoCal and Along the Colorado River in AZ
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  1. Typical condition of all cylinders The bore diameter of the 1-4 bank; this was the average. What the combustion chamber looked like; all looked like this. Valve train, both looked like this. Engine ID info.
  2. I’m asking $350. The engine is missing the rocker arms, rocker arm bolts, one pushrod, and the timing plate. Also, it is missing a few head bolts, intake bolts, and exhaust manifold bolts. I pulled it apart and measured several cylinders; most were about .010 over the standard bore. There is no sign of any cracks, damage, etc. Is this not a good place to sell this engine?
  3. Do you t junk I’m asking too much or is there no market for this engine?
  4. Ok my turn to guess. I thinks it coming from a rotating part and the reason it is amplified at the lower rpm, is because it’s slower friction point in generating a frequency that’s within our normal hearing range. As it rotates faster, we can’t hear it as well because it’s outside our hearing. While that sounds far fetch to some, it may account for the why the volume and repetition do not seem to increase with the rpm. Now, what is it, could be 10 things. But, if I had to wager, I suspect the new starter, since it’s the only new part on the vehicle since the sound started.
  5. My plans are to get it running (It’s a SFI engine), play with it, and then after that, tear into it for a 2 year restoration. That will likely mean pulling engine, etc and do a mass air, all of the fun stuff, etc. That will give me an opportunity to reassess the decision. Most of my engine building experience comes from the late 1970’s. I had my own shop on my Dad’s farm in a small town in TX where I built streetable engines and built small block pintos and Vegas. It was how I put myself through college. Most if not all of those sbf and sbc got “higher flow” pumps from stock. Never had a problem with any of those cars. I’m not as familiar with the newer roller block sbfs but I see that Ford has a crate motor with a “higher that stock” oil pump. Since I have to change the oil pan, maybe I’ll check the bottom end (do people still use plastigage?). I’ll pull the pump and at least check the clearances. 😁
  6. So if I get a front sump pan, I need to get the early style gasket. Ok, that makes sense. Unfortunately, I don’t have any way of checking the oil pressure and at a 10 to 15% increase, it’s not a significant push on the existing system. To me, it’s an inexpensive addition to help fend off an unknown issue; if it’s in the ok zone, it won’t hurt; if it’s in the low end, it will help. The ARP is a good catch. Thanks, Steve.
  7. I am transplanting a 302 from a 1987 Thunderbird into my 73. So, I know I’ve got to change the oil pan and pickup, so I say, I should also change the oil pump and shaft because there is 75k miles on the engine, and any bearing wear would be helped by a higher than stock oil pump. So, all is well, as I am setting up my order on Rock Auto. So, being extra smart, I decide to see if I can get all of the stuff I need on Amazon. First price I check is the oil pan gasket; one of those nice one-piece types, and as I’m entering the Fel-Pro part number, Amazon tells me this will not fit the 1987 Thunderbird. The 73 one piece is OS13260T and the 87 is OS34508R. I mean, what? Isn’t a 302 a 302? The oil pan gasket for that rear sump configuration is different and I’m wondering or maybe asking, beside the front sump oil pan, which will fit on the 87 302, should I be ordering 302 parts using the Thunderbird data or does it matter? Does someone have a trusted parts list for this conversion? Thanks, Steve
  8. But, does anyone have pictures/experience with a hood scoop that isn’t a NASA hood? I’m looking for options and want to see scoops that look they could have been original; not looking for tunnel-ram and tall stuff like that. I’m not trying to insult anyone. Better if it’s not a Mach 1.
  9. I have a 351c 2v out of a 1973 Grande. It is a mostly complete engine, but is missing parts. Here are pics of the assembled engine: /cdn-cgi/image/format=auto,onerror=redirect,width=1920,height=1920,fit=scale-down/https://www.vintage-mustang.com/attachments/95a87c1f-6ef6-476d-b0d4-b1f8886c1dd1-jpeg.797464/ I also have the following parts not assembled to the engine. I also have information and many more pictures of the internals, bore measurements, etc if you’re interested. We can discuss delivery as well, as the engine is on the stand in Fort Mohave, AZ; but anywhere between the Ca/AZ border and Southern Cal is possible for delivery. Asking $350 for all shown and a few more parts too. Thanks, Steve
  10. My 9 to 5 involves carefully planning specific events that are thwarted by persistence periods of rest.
  11. Right, but I want to retain the donor car engine systems. I’m thinking it’s a bit more than the pure EFI wiring. I could be wrong. And, not being sassy, but if there’s not much to EFI wiring, why is it north of $600 for the pleasure? Does that bug anyone else?
  12. I searched the forum and couldn’t find an answer to this question, but does anyone know an individual or company that either makes a kit or modifies your existing engine/EFI harness to use in a swap configuration? Before I start on mine, I was hoping to run this opportunity to ground.
  13. Thanks Sheriff. Do you know anyone who has a book or website to integrate the two vehicles wire harnesses? Any info would be a better starting point. I need to acquire both wiring diagrams to start. Or, is there someone/vendor who does it for you?
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