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Everything posted by BDK

  1. BDK


    If one is not on Facebook how would you contact him? BDK
  2. BDK


    Looking for a 71ish OE jack, jack handle, bolt & wingnut. Let me know if anyone has these at a "decent" price... :) BDK
  3. Never thought about that...good point Jeff
  4. In line for the," OE jack, jack handle, bolt & wingnut" BDK
  5. First off, a BIG thank you to Don C, Midlife and RacerX for their help in diagnosing the issue I was having......and the winner is "RacerX". Indeed it was bad battery cables, but my guess is the short had melted some of the strands inside (I cut it open but did not look too bad). Odd too since I was using 0 gauge welding wire for my connections, but the ends were not sealed so may have just corroded..... Thanks guys...and a BIG Thanks to RacerX!......community is great for things like this!.... Bruce
  6. Don C has nailed it. A dead short across a battery for a very short period of time can cause a couple of cells to go bad, yet the battery voltage reads OK until it is under load. The fact that putting headlights on kills power to the rest of the car's lights and voltage dropping down to ~6-8V is a dead give-away (pun intended). Replace the battery. OK guys, I'll give this a go and see what happens..... Bruce
  7. Trying this. ...it is very odd...disconnecting starter did nothing....removing plug from voltage reg. To alternator did nothing. ...still working on this. ...
  8. Don, I do have the PMGR mini starter from DB Electrical, so connections are to the + side of the solenoid. I've been trying other things and am quite stumped. I can undo the negative battery cable and then reconnect, dome light comes back on in car and parking lights function perfectly. If I then go to turn the headlights on the dome light goes out and the headlights do not come on. However, can walk back over to the battery and disconnect/reconnect the negative cable and viola, can redo the same process. Seems like something is drawing things down but I can't figure out what....... I had ZERO issues with my car prior to shorting the starter, so it has to be something that is now dead and drawing things down...ideas??? B
  9. Well once I replaced the starter solenoid I then had my interior overhead light back, however if I engaged any other circuit such as headlights or put the car in the ACC position the interior light went out. Voltage across the S terminal and top of the solenoid is full battery voltage, across the two large terminals in the crank position it drops to 8.48. Since the behavior is near the same with both solenoids my guess is they are just fine.....ideas?? Did I fry the starter when I dropped the wrench across it???? B
  10. Battery is just fine Chuck...12.48 volts. I replaced the starter solenoid and am going to test and see if this is what was the issue. Anyone know how to test a suspect starter solenoid to determine if it is good or not? Bruce
  11. Well, the fusible link has conductivity from end to end, so not that. Could it be the starter solenoid??? Bruce
  12. I'll be checking it today, not really sure what else it could be if not the fusible link....
  13. Do you have a pic Midlife? How is it repaired usually?
  14. OK guys, did something really stupid tonight and need some help. Was tightening header bolts on the MACH (351) on the passengers side when the wrench slipped from my hand and conveniently landed on the positive side of the battery cable that attaches to the starter and the other side to the case of the starter (grounding things out, great short!). I now have no power (no headlights, interior lights, nada from starter switch in any positions, dash lights , etc.) and suspect this is a fusible link. Can someone point to the main fusible link that would be in the wiring (a picture would be immensely helpful)? How does one replace this as well? Bruce
  15. OK, so he has added his "personal" touches but overall this is a very nice car and priced well... https://milwaukee.craigslist.org/cto/d/ford-mustang-mach/6200215241.html BDK
  16. Well this one says it will fit but it seems far too tall to me..... http://www.ebay.ca/itm/71-72-73-74-75-76-77-MUSTANG-MAVERICK-RANCHERO-COMET-MERCURY-IHC-PINTO-GAS-CAP-/162581270077?fits=Year%3A1971%7CModel%3AMustang&hash=item25da994e3d:g:WIAAAOSw9~5ZXs48&vxp=mtr BDK
  17. https://zanesville.craigslist.org/pts/6075169251.html BDK
  18. Looks to be nice.... http://www.ebay.com/itm/1971-Ford-Mustang-mach-1-/332143641248?hash=item4d554dc2a0:g:cKgAAOSw4A5YuN4E&vxp=mtr
  19. Thanks all, looks like 1.75-2" is about proper placement..... BDK
  20. Anyone have a good reference for the RAM Air hood decal placement?? BDK
  21. Try these guys: Automotivetouchup.com BDK
  22. Not much in the way for the 351C as far as supercharging goes until I found this: http://www.torqstorm.com/ford_351_cleveland_supercharger_kit.html and the over the top model here: http://www.torqstorm.com/kits_twin_big-block-ford.html . Made in MI and seems quite a good price for the single kit. Just a thought for anyone looking for a bit MORE.... :) BDK
  23. http://zanesville.craigslist.org/pts/5964670878.html Could be an interesting find, depending on price......
  24. Will the Fitech fit under the RAM-Air cleaner and RAM-Air plenum?? BDK
  25. Try Craigslist, much cheaper than FleaBay...did a quick search near me and a pair for $50 is hard to beat. http://columbus.craigslist.org/pts/5942556558.html BDK
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