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Everything posted by RIBS

  1. I did get all exterior lights working, neutral safety switch functional, steering interlock adjusted and working… I also ordered a Full wiring kit. Gonna be fun!
  2. My 71 convertible trunk lid is lower on the driver side in the passenger side. My understanding is is due to the metal spring rod. My trunk lid does not have any rubber bumpers toward the outer rear edge, however it appears there are flat spots where maybe some are supposed to be mounted and maybe were filled in. So the question is, do you guys have rubber bumpers to support your trunk in the corners at the back of the car near the tail lights. And can you send pictures? Pictures of your rubber bumpers that is!
  3. I have a 71 convertible and the Instrument panel is mostly dead. I’ve tried to take the instrument panel out a few times and cannot get it out. It feels like the speedometer cable is extremely tight, when I undo the four instrument panel screws, the panel actually gets pulled inward! I tried following the speedometer cable through the firewall and it might be pinched behind the brake booster for my power brakes. How much FreePlay do you guys have in your speedometer cable? I can’t get my hand on the back of anything, I tried from below I even took the dash pad and metal plate off the top and can’t get in through there either. I also tried taking off the center stack and going through the empty radio space couldn’t get anywhere either through there. What’s the secret for taking apart The instrument cluster? I need to get it out and test it and see if I can get it brought to life because the next step is to replace the entire wiring harness.
  4. Anyone have a good throttle cable mount solution for this? Edelbrock adapters are junk….I had to make my own out of roofing straps from Home Depot….my throttle cable is all the way out over valve cover and I had to make my own cable mount….. 71 302 C4 auto edlebrock performer 289 intake 1405 carb Edelbrock kick down linkage adapter, throttle bracket adapter and ball mount kit….
  5. Not much happening..l tried to do some work on the wiring, the dash is not lighting up, and none of the gauges work, the engine wiring harness is dead and not correct…so after conversations with Midlife I decided to try a new harness for the gauges and coil…he told me I had a mess and part of my harness is 73 in a 71 car. So anyhow, he was right…it’s time to make some changes..a 71 engine harness doesn’t work in my car… The wiring is so damaged, I think it’s time to gut it and install a new modern system… It should be fun! It’s now part of my build….
  6. For older model Mustangs I have seen padding and vinyl fabrics wrapped… is that a possibility to basically upholster the faded parts?
  7. I did get mine out, stripped everything off the firewall I could. Internet no easy and working with the distribution block is also a pain. Mine is back on the road.
  8. So I am back on the road for my limited test drives. Brakes done, all new hard lines, new rear cylinders, completely new from the spindle out in front. New master cylinder. 4 shocks done, the rear coil overs are gone, the stance and ride are much better! new wheels and tires, 235 60 15 on 7 inch rims up front, 245 60 15 on 8 inch in back, no fitment issues!
  9. Interesting, Scoot Drake denies selling convertible top parts for the 71, NPD lists it as a Scott Drake 71 part. Let’s see how this ends….
  10. I see a convertible specific radiator support is not available in aftermarket, but a coupe is, and is marked “works in convertible with modifications “. https://www.npdlink.com/product/radiator-support/212931/202907 Anyone know what’s required to make it work? Mine is a little rusted but not a basket case…
  11. Thanks, just trying to get the safety stuff done so I can drive it! I will move to cooling system next, and possibly reseat intake and do some more fuel systems work. After that come body structure and wiring.
  12. FYI mine was built in late 70 as a 71 model, and I have two of those pieces and am missing the drivers fender piece.
  13. Did you ever find a good source? I could use a passenger side myself!
  14. Update, hope to finish brakes Tuesday night, I have everything in except the master cylinder..4 wheel brake assemblies rebuilt, 4 shocks installed, old master cylinder out, distribution block reconnected and reinstalled, new hard lines…replaced axle vent line too.
  15. All hard lines stripped out, and new ones installed. The distribution block is out and stripped down and cleaned. All the new lines are in and routed and reattached finger tight. Everything was so full of rust and goo so I also ordered a new master cylinder. It’s should be here Tuesday. I have a friend that’s an expert auto guy coming this week to tighten everything up and help with final installation… you guys were right, cut the lines, use heat, vice grips and replace everything! I hope to have everything tight and together and Brakes bleed by next weekend!
  16. Any idea if that dealer is still around, and if they changed their name?
  17. How exactly do you get the full body rear brake hard line out and replace with new? Mine is all jammed up on the firewall under layers of stuff, and jammed between tunnel and transmission! It looks like a bunch of wiring, linkage, speedometer cable, other brake line, etc needs to go, but its really jammed in… Tips?
  18. I bought new cylinders, with pre installed o rings, they are flat topped round like a toilet wax ring the lines came with o rings that don’t fit anywhere. They are round like a donut. Lines are also new. the only old item is the pump and it’s not leaking.
  19. When I bought the car the hydraulic cylinders and lines were pouring fluid out through the floor pan onto the ground. I replaced the cylinders and the lines, and the pump was still functional. I have minor leaks from the cylinders where the lines attach. I bought Scott drake parts and their customer service has been silent. Can you guys help? The new lines came with a small Ziploc with about 8 o rings. The new cylinders already had o rings inserted and the pump already had O-rings. And the O-rings sent with the lines didn’t seem to match any junction in diameter or shape or look like replacements for the existing o-rings. The existing o rings are thick and flat edged, the new rings are smaller diameter and rounded profile… ideas?? Maybe just give the lines that extra 1/4 turn? thanks!
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