Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by RIBS

  1. How exactly do you get the full body rear brake hard line out and replace with new? Mine is all jammed up on the firewall under layers of stuff, and jammed between tunnel and transmission! It looks like a bunch of wiring, linkage, speedometer cable, other brake line, etc needs to go, but its really jammed in… Tips?
  2. I bought new cylinders, with pre installed o rings, they are flat topped round like a toilet wax ring the lines came with o rings that don’t fit anywhere. They are round like a donut. Lines are also new. the only old item is the pump and it’s not leaking.
  3. When I bought the car the hydraulic cylinders and lines were pouring fluid out through the floor pan onto the ground. I replaced the cylinders and the lines, and the pump was still functional. I have minor leaks from the cylinders where the lines attach. I bought Scott drake parts and their customer service has been silent. Can you guys help? The new lines came with a small Ziploc with about 8 o rings. The new cylinders already had o rings inserted and the pump already had O-rings. And the O-rings sent with the lines didn’t seem to match any junction in diameter or shape or look like replacements for the existing o-rings. The existing o rings are thick and flat edged, the new rings are smaller diameter and rounded profile… ideas?? Maybe just give the lines that extra 1/4 turn? thanks!
  4. Today I ran the power feed from starter relay to convertible top switch, I now have a fully functional top mechanism!
  5. Between Mikegriese and Midlife, and a couple of replacement cylinders and lines, I now have a fully functional convertible top mechanism, from battery to switch to hydraulics! Thanks guys!
  6. I need to know how to route the power feed from the power top switch to the starter relay. I assume it goes under dash, through the firewall somewhere and goes along fender to starter relay? anyone have pics especially where wire and rubber grommet pass through firewall? I know the bullet connector goes in switch wiring, and the circuit breaker end connect to battery side of starter relay. I just need to know the routing path. thanks!
  7. 235/60/15 for the 15x7s 245/60/15 for the 15x8s So a slight stagger. This is what’s been tested and recommended and is sold by CJ Pony and others.
  8. So an update, full set of hard lines are here, will start replacing those. Also got new wheels and tires from Tire rack and they mounted the fat tires on skinny rims and skinny tires on fat rims, so the set when to Discount Tires for a redo on Tire Racks dime. all 4 corners of brakes are done, so I need to clear out old fluid and hook up hard lines and replace shocks and I should be able to get the car down off the jack stands.
  9. An update, my 3-5 day brake job is going to be more like 3 weeks, once I disassembled I found I needed more parts, once I got those, I attempted to remove soft lines from hard lines, and of course all sorts of bad things started happening..I have new hard lines coming, going to replumb parts of the car, that’s going to add a week or two…I do have 3 of 4 corners rebuilt, need hard lines to connect a few….
  10. Looks like I have the double, thanks for the tip.
  11. Apparently it was a standard pony grill, but the car was burned and a 73 harness installed, the current harness can’t power the headlights, side markers and under bumper lights, much less the Mach 1 lights in grill. I plan on a complete wiring harness replacement, do that will hopefully resolve any missing electrical connectors. It’s currently a mess.
  12. Just a couple other notes, it’s a complete running car, I have the complete interior and all trim, as well as the top. The floorpans are solid, they are covered with glue and foil backing from the insulation padding I pulled up…I have a basement full of old spares and new reproduction parts I am acquiring. it should be back on the road in a week after brakes and wheels and tires are complete…then it’s bit by bit repair and restoration…
  13. Hello all, I will start with the history I know of the car, whether real or imagined. 1971 Grabber Blue/white top/white interior 302, C4 auto, 2.79 rear axle. Apparently the owner in the mid 90’s had restored the car to show condition in NJ, and took it to shows often. The story is he was at a car show, and the show tent next to him caught on fire and fell onto this car. It thought the story was a reach until I saw the car. That owner did some repair work and then sold the car in 97 to the guy I bought it from. In the 23+ years the last owner had it, he lightly bolted on an aftermarket front fender, added an Edelbrock intake and 4v carb, and halfway installed a new white top. In the entire time he owned it he drove it 80 miles. Supposedly the engine and transmission are original and rebuilt, I have not dug deep into that yet. I have been all through the car and it does appear to be an older restoration, in very good shape, but still needing a lot of work. It has rust in the trunk, and the door latch pillars, they will need some metal work at the base. there is also rust in the area of the fire, mostly surface stuff to repair. The biggest challenge is going to be the electrical system, apparently Half the engine bay wires, and some of the dash wires were destroyed..it appears a 73 harness was hacked into place poorly, with at least 20 exposed bare wire ends hanging in space, I will probably rewire the car after metalwork, before paint. The interior was also burned somewhat, the dash and front sets and steering wheel is out of a 73, the steering column needs a rebuild…the entire white interior has now been sprayed black…there’s still burn marks and scorched hardware to replace some 25 years later! Marti Report and a billion pics to follow! To date I have done the following fixes: wheels and tires on order to replace 25 year old rubber throttle linkage and kick down lever rebuild, the zip ties are gone! added a fuel filter, there was NONE Engine tuneup, plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor Oil change stripped interior to check body integrity and for rust repaired top hydraulic system degreased fixed stripped oil pan drain plug currently the car is on jack stands getting a full brake job.
  14. Thanks all, I will start a build thread, and describe car over there…FYI I am also active on vintage-Mustangs.com, I think some of you are over there too, I have a build thread there too.
  15. I bought a project car, a 71 convertible. The base grill is busted out. I am replacing it with a Mach1 grill, which will be installed later when the body work is being fit. It’s a new car and grill to me. the question is, do I need headlight rings? so far I have the grill, the center pony, the horizontal yellow lights. And mounting kits. what other parts are required? thanks!
  16. Hi, just bought a 71 Grabber Blue convertible, it was in storage for 25 years after suffering fire damage..So far I am doing safety items and getting it on the road reliably..tune up, oil change, complete brake job, removed interior to inspect for rust, rebuilt top hydraulics, fuel system clean out, some carb linkage upgrades, redoing some things hacked in the past…I am in Metro Atlanta.
  • Create New...