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73inNH

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  1. Just a curiosity question, if knock/ping is bad enough to damage your engine, will you hear it?
  2. Interesting. If the Boss 351 made 330 HP through manifolds, maybe it's worth looking at increasing the outlet to 2.25" ID.
  3. Geoff, I believe my timing marks are off, which makes precision difficult. I'll plan on fixing that.
  4. Is there any DIY work that can be done to the stock manifolds to increase the flow?
  5. Geoff- Thanks for the info! My questions are more "theory" I guess . . . not necessarily tied to my setup. Modern cars have knock sensors and advance timing (I think) until knock/ping is detected. Running higher octane allows the computer to advance the timing further. Again . . . I think. :) If that's correct, I was wondering if we should automatically advance initial timing higher than base when 93 octane will be used. Or maybe I'm overthinking things. To answer your questions, I have a Pertronix disty, Pertronix II module and Pertronix II Coil. Using ported vacuum advance.
  6. 1973 351C 4V Q Code I'm hoping for some clarification as to how octane relates to timing. My understanding is (feel free to pick apart!): 1. Base timing on my car is 16* BTDC at 87 octane. 2. Higher octane gas (I run 93 octane) burns slower and longer, thus you can run more advance (20* BTDC?). Are those statements correct? And if so, is it the case that if you run higher octane you should run more advance? In other words, if I run 93 and the car is timed for 87, I should be advancing my timing (by some amount) to take advantage of the higher octane. Am I correct?
  7. Brian, That's a great looking guy. I love the color combination and it looks really clean. Pictures sell cars, IMHO. Your photos are good, but I would add a lot more. Including maybe a shot or two of why you consider the car a 20 footer. Adding a video of a cold startup and the car running is a popular thing now. Since there is a good possibility that a non-local buyer will buy the car, having a video so you can hear it run is important. Posting the car on craigslist as well as Facebook marketplace is a good idea, as well. Likewise, there are other Mustang forums out there that you should post this to. If the price is negotiable, you might want to indicate that. Great car, good luck with the sale!
  8. Edelbrock Performance Intake Manifold 2665 (autozone.com) Site says Ship to Home is October 1. Generally when it says that it means that they're in stock. Might be worth calling to find out? O'Reilly says October 5. Edelbrock Performer Series Intake Manifold 2665 | O'Reilly Auto Parts (oreillyauto.com)
  9. Agreed. I bought mine new, in box, from ebay last month, but I got lucky. Haven't seen one since.
  10. Perfect, I'll try some power washing and light scrubbing and see how it looks. Yah, the place is in Milford, NH. There isn't a showroom to walk around, just a large warehouse with tons of parts (used and new). Best to call ahead of time to find that if they have what you need. The owner's name is Craig. Really nice guy. I met him at the swap meet in Epping yesterday. If you haven't gone, you definitely should go. It's the last Sunday of every month. I think the last show of the year is November.
  11. 1973 Vert My interior quarters were cut up by a PO (huge speaker holes) and look terrible. I purchased some decent quality used panels today from NE Performance Mustang. The panels are in good shape, but appear to be originally blue plastic, then painted black. I do want them black, but some of the paint is peeling and they need to be refinished. Any advice for stripping the old paint, cleaning and adhering new paint? I know I could sand, but that will ruin the grain. While not a show car, I'd like to keep some originality when feasible. Thoughts?
  12. Update . . . I bought a small hand drill set on Amazon and drilled out the accelerator pump one drill size larger. I have no idea what size that is, the drill bits are tiny. But I inserted the largest bit that I could into the accelerator pump jets, then drilled out to the next size up. It helped! But I think I could go one more size. I'll do that next time I have the carb apart. To recap . . . here's what I've done to make the Edelbrock 1813 (800CFM) perform well on my 3514V 1. Set air screws as exact as possible using vacuum gauge (with PCV correctly functioning). I have my idle set around 850. 2. Drill out accelerator pump slightly larger. 3. Bend accelerator pump rod slightly to give a larger shot of gas. 4. Set the AVS secondary air flap to 2.25 turns closed (counterclockwise). Factory setting is 1.5 turns. It was opening way too early and leaning out the mixture. Adding 3/4 of a turn solved that. I might even try another 1/4 turn at some point. 5. Changed the rods 2 steps richer. NOTE: I'm not sure if this solved anything and might go back to stock at some point to test. 6. Changed the step up springs to silver (the stiffest ones). I believe that items 1, 2, 3 and 4 had the largest impact on drivability. Thanks to everyone for all of their help!
  13. Update . . . This worked. I reinstalled the driver side PCV and connected it to the proper (middle) port on the carburetor. The passenger side is a breather for now but I will connect that to the air cleaner tomorrow. I readjusted the idle air screws methodically with a vacuum gauge and it now runs great! I still have a slight miss when I nail it hard, but that is likely an accelerator pump issue which I will deal with later.
  14. Awesome. You guys make life much easier. Thank you.
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