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Everything posted by 73inNH

  1. Just a curiosity question, if knock/ping is bad enough to damage your engine, will you hear it?
  2. Interesting. If the Boss 351 made 330 HP through manifolds, maybe it's worth looking at increasing the outlet to 2.25" ID.
  3. Geoff, I believe my timing marks are off, which makes precision difficult. I'll plan on fixing that.
  4. Is there any DIY work that can be done to the stock manifolds to increase the flow?
  5. Geoff- Thanks for the info! My questions are more "theory" I guess . . . not necessarily tied to my setup. Modern cars have knock sensors and advance timing (I think) until knock/ping is detected. Running higher octane allows the computer to advance the timing further. Again . . . I think. :) If that's correct, I was wondering if we should automatically advance initial timing higher than base when 93 octane will be used. Or maybe I'm overthinking things. To answer your questions, I have a Pertronix disty, Pertronix II module and Pertronix II Coil. Using ported vacuum advance.
  6. 1973 351C 4V Q Code I'm hoping for some clarification as to how octane relates to timing. My understanding is (feel free to pick apart!): 1. Base timing on my car is 16* BTDC at 87 octane. 2. Higher octane gas (I run 93 octane) burns slower and longer, thus you can run more advance (20* BTDC?). Are those statements correct? And if so, is it the case that if you run higher octane you should run more advance? In other words, if I run 93 and the car is timed for 87, I should be advancing my timing (by some amount) to take advantage of the higher octane. Am I correct?
  7. Brian, That's a great looking guy. I love the color combination and it looks really clean. Pictures sell cars, IMHO. Your photos are good, but I would add a lot more. Including maybe a shot or two of why you consider the car a 20 footer. Adding a video of a cold startup and the car running is a popular thing now. Since there is a good possibility that a non-local buyer will buy the car, having a video so you can hear it run is important. Posting the car on craigslist as well as Facebook marketplace is a good idea, as well. Likewise, there are other Mustang forums out there that you should post this to. If the price is negotiable, you might want to indicate that. Great car, good luck with the sale!
  8. Edelbrock Performance Intake Manifold 2665 (autozone.com) Site says Ship to Home is October 1. Generally when it says that it means that they're in stock. Might be worth calling to find out? O'Reilly says October 5. Edelbrock Performer Series Intake Manifold 2665 | O'Reilly Auto Parts (oreillyauto.com)
  9. Agreed. I bought mine new, in box, from ebay last month, but I got lucky. Haven't seen one since.
  10. Perfect, I'll try some power washing and light scrubbing and see how it looks. Yah, the place is in Milford, NH. There isn't a showroom to walk around, just a large warehouse with tons of parts (used and new). Best to call ahead of time to find that if they have what you need. The owner's name is Craig. Really nice guy. I met him at the swap meet in Epping yesterday. If you haven't gone, you definitely should go. It's the last Sunday of every month. I think the last show of the year is November.
  11. 1973 Vert My interior quarters were cut up by a PO (huge speaker holes) and look terrible. I purchased some decent quality used panels today from NE Performance Mustang. The panels are in good shape, but appear to be originally blue plastic, then painted black. I do want them black, but some of the paint is peeling and they need to be refinished. Any advice for stripping the old paint, cleaning and adhering new paint? I know I could sand, but that will ruin the grain. While not a show car, I'd like to keep some originality when feasible. Thoughts?
  12. Update . . . I bought a small hand drill set on Amazon and drilled out the accelerator pump one drill size larger. I have no idea what size that is, the drill bits are tiny. But I inserted the largest bit that I could into the accelerator pump jets, then drilled out to the next size up. It helped! But I think I could go one more size. I'll do that next time I have the carb apart. To recap . . . here's what I've done to make the Edelbrock 1813 (800CFM) perform well on my 3514V 1. Set air screws as exact as possible using vacuum gauge (with PCV correctly functioning). I have my idle set around 850. 2. Drill out accelerator pump slightly larger. 3. Bend accelerator pump rod slightly to give a larger shot of gas. 4. Set the AVS secondary air flap to 2.25 turns closed (counterclockwise). Factory setting is 1.5 turns. It was opening way too early and leaning out the mixture. Adding 3/4 of a turn solved that. I might even try another 1/4 turn at some point. 5. Changed the rods 2 steps richer. NOTE: I'm not sure if this solved anything and might go back to stock at some point to test. 6. Changed the step up springs to silver (the stiffest ones). I believe that items 1, 2, 3 and 4 had the largest impact on drivability. Thanks to everyone for all of their help!
  13. Update . . . This worked. I reinstalled the driver side PCV and connected it to the proper (middle) port on the carburetor. The passenger side is a breather for now but I will connect that to the air cleaner tomorrow. I readjusted the idle air screws methodically with a vacuum gauge and it now runs great! I still have a slight miss when I nail it hard, but that is likely an accelerator pump issue which I will deal with later.
  14. Awesome. You guys make life much easier. Thank you.
  15. Got it. OK, I'll work on the issues I have when the PCV is connected. It's fixable. . . . the extra air is leaning out the carb. I'll get it. Thanks, Don and boilermaster.
  16. In essence, I want: 1. Driver's side PCV valve to PCV port on carb (which has given me problems, but I can revisit). 2. Passenger side breather replaced with hose to air cleaner. That will give me a properly functioning PCV system, correct?
  17. Mike, Before spending any money, disconnect the PCV valve and plug the fitting on the carburetor and drive. If your problem is similar to mine your car will likely be substantially better after doing that. Then you can figure out next steps.
  18. @boilermaster My exact setup: 1. Run of the mill breather in passenger side valve cover. 2. PCV in driver side oil cap. 3. Hose from PCV to 14 round Edelbrock air cleaner. A pic of my oil cap is attached. Will this work well?
  19. An update . . . Thinking about the PCV and how when I connect it to the PCV port on the carb, the car bogs (running lean, likely), I decided to plumb the PCV into the air cleaner base. As I was looking at my setup, I remembered that the PCV was originally plumbed into the stock air cleaner housing, not the carb. When I switched to the Edelbrock 14" air cleaner, I plumbed it into the carb, which caused the bog. So I bought an elbow and a grommet, drilled out a hole in the air cleaner base, and run a small hose from the base to the PCV in the valve cover. This worked. I now have the PCV connected, and the engine runs well. I still have a very small hesitation when mashing the throttle from low RPMs. I may buy the Edelbrock accelerator pump tuning kit to give it a bigger shot, but the problem is so small now that I'm in no rush.
  20. I went through the adjustment procedure for clutch engagement per your notes (above) and an old Chilton's I have for 65-73 Mustangs. Success! The clutch engages/disengages better and that 1st gear "catch" appears to be gone (after a short test drive). I'm going to go with Don's recommendation, too, and replace the engine mounts, as well. They look old and the rubber looks cracked. Thanks for the help!
  21. Ahhh, ok that makes sense. Is it something I can see from the outside? Also, is there a clutch adjustment procedure I need to follow after installing the z bar?
  22. The transmission mount is new, so I'm hoping that's not it. Is there a way to test the engine mounts, or just change them if they look old? Re: tranny fluid, I have to get a small siphon to empty it. I'll do that this week.
  23. 1973 Q Code 351, 4 Speed I have an odd issue engaging 1st gear. When letting out the clutch in first gear (and only first gear) the car often "catches" quick. It's difficult to explain. It acts very normal (as you'd expect a clutch to react when starting from 0 MPH) then all of a sudden it feels like the clutch grabs really quick. It's a quick enough grab that at times you feel like you might stall the car. It's tough to explain. The clutch acts normal in every other gear. I've changed the z bar (and bushings) and tranny mount. It didn't affect the problem at all. Any thoughts?
  24. I changed my spark plugs today. Here's a pic of the old ones. Does this look a little lean?
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