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Don C

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Don C last won the day on August 8

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About Don C

  • Rank
    Fords Forever
  • Birthday 03/29/1945

Vehicle Info

  • Vehicle(s)
    1971 Mustang Sportroof M code


  • Location
    Springfield, OR
  • Region

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  1. Don C


    Welcome from Oregon. Where are you located? We have members all over, may be some close to you.
  2. Welcome from Oregon. Have fun making it your car.
  3. As long as whatever you're attaching your block and tackle to will support the weight of the transmission and engine I would remove them together. Faster and easier. I have a transmission jack and still prefer to remove them together. I've removed transmissions just using a regular floor jack, difficult balancing act by your self. Please make sure your overhead support will handle the load.
  4. You need to get panel removal tools that can get behind the panel and next to or around the spring clips: https://www.harborfreight.com/paneltrim-removal-tool-set-6-pc-63639.html https://www.harborfreight.com/trim-and-molding-tool-set-5-pc-64126.html https://www.harborfreight.com/2-piece-flat-pry-bar-set-67477.html
  5. Because "M" codes originally came with a Ford carburetor and you now have a Holley carburetor you likely won't find a good match, depending on which model of Holley you have it may be close or not. Some have the fuel inlet on the left (driver's side) and some are on the right, and there are different configurations on the fuel inlet lines and fittings. The Ford carburetor inlet was on the front, on both 2 barrel and 4 barrel carburetors. Your other choice would be the fuel line for a 351C 4V engine, it may come closer to fitting, as it won't be quite as long. With either one, though, you'll likely have to modify it, or just make your own. The external block configurations are the same for "H" and "M" codes, the carburetors are pretty much centered on each engine, just the 4 barrel carburetor is a little longer and the fuel lines are shaped a little differently.
  6. I tried that, too, without much success. I found that using (in your example) "oil sender", in quotations, gave me better results. Using the Search function in the Content tab seems to give fairly good results, more capable than the old format.
  7. I don't always like upgrades, either, but it goes along with using a computer. Even programs like Outlook have tweaks occasionally. I'm getting used to it, after being directed to the correct Search I'm starting to like it. One thing would be nice, though, and that is if the posts, in a thread, could be numbered like the old one was, makes it a lot easier to reference a post in a multi-page thread.
  8. Welcome from Oregon. By the way, we like pictures.
  9. Here's what it looks like https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/store/p/12950-Pressure-Line-Outlet-Tube-Assembly-Power-Steering-Used-1971-1973-Mercury-Cougar-/-1971-1973-Ford-Mustang.html?sessionthemeid=26 Many were broken/twisted when removing the hose, or removed with the hose and inadvertently thrown away.
  10. I agree, nice write up David. And, nice job on the brackets, down to the air-flow window in the bracket in front of the radiator.
  11. Actually the reason for ethanol being added to fuel is to increase the oxygen content of gasoline, reducing knocking and reducing the amount of carbon dioxide and unburned fuel in the exhaust. It replaced an oxygenate additive called MTBE, that was polluting ground water/drinking water and causing rotten tasting water. No, I'm not a fan of it either. I use Lucas fuel treatment for valve lubrication, fuel system cleaning, fuel stabilization, and water reduction in the fuel. It also helps reduce the effects of ethanol. However, if you're going to store your car you'll need to drain your tank, fuel lines, and carburetor.
  12. Good information, thanks for posting. I looked for the book online, Amazon has them in electronic version (Kindle), for $9.99, but not hard copy.
  13. The other end of the equation on your coil getting hot is that the negative terminal has to be getting grounded. When this happens are the points in the distributor closed (assuming you have the stock ignition)?
  14. Yes, unfortunately you're not the only one that has bought a new part that is bad out of the box. Seems to happen more and more. You'll see this phrase often on the forum "New does not mean good".
  15. I would pull the two wires off the "S" and "I" terminals on the solenoid, to see if that is where you're getting the current to the coil. If so, your new solenoid is likely bad. If not you'll need to start at the ignition switch (on top of the steering column under the dash) to see if it is adjusted correctly and actually turns off when the ignition key is off. You can pull the ignition switch connector apart to see if that eliminates the voltage to the coil.

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