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Don C

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Don C last won the day on October 2

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About Don C

  • Birthday 03/29/1945

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    1971 Mustang Sportroof M code


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    Springfield, OR
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  1. That is indeed a mild cam, and shouldn't have any problem pulling with the rear end you have. As long as you can turn the distributor body and cap so the rotor points to number 1 terminal when the engine is at top dead center on the compression stroke it doesn't make any difference what the tooth position is in relation to the cam gear. If the distributor shaft teeth are rotated too far off the distributor vacuum advance can will prevent the correct rotor/cap alignment. If your timing chain were off one tooth that would be a huge issue. Start with the ignition timing, that is the easiest. If that doesn't help then start adjusting the carburetor. Check what the accelerator pump cam is set at. You'll need to see what your vacuum is at idle, to get an idea of what power valve your carburetor needs. Do you hear any popping or backfiring when you try to accelerate? You'll need to make sure you don't have any vacuum leaks, check all of the vacuum hoses and PCV valve and hose.
  2. The electronic (pdf) colorized wiring diagrams that I have from Forel includes harness routing diagrams.
  3. A little more information would help. Like how big of a hole will it take. Does it have a bulkhead connector, and if so, does the ECU connect directly to it? Or, is it just a cable and grommet, same question, how big is it? Are you retrofitting a fuel injected engine into your car? If anyone else had done what you're wanting to do, they probably would have chimed in by now. I haven't retrofitted a fuel injected engine into an early Mustang, but have to other vehicles. Finding locations for the ECU and cabling is very timing consuming, requires a lot of measurements. I would remove the dash and heater/AC after outlining the box on the firewall. That will give you a better view of what you're trying to accomplish and better access to measuring points. Depending on what you're installing, you may be better off using a retrofit harness, designed for more flexibility than the OEM harness.
  4. I see them, Windows 10 and Microsoft Edge. The pictures are of a yellow fastback, quarter window up and down.
  5. There are two possibilities for 4V heads used in '73, they both have open chambers (75.4cc) but one has small valves (2.04/1.66") and the other has large valves (2.19/1.71"). Do you know what the casting numbers are? That said, the open chamber heads still have the potential for making good power on pump gas and mild cams. Do you have the specs on the cam? Was it degreed when it was installed? If it is retarded you will have less bottom end and more top end power. The other potential issue is in the rear end gearing. Your car probably came with a rear end ratio of around 3.00:1. Even a mild cam is likely to want a lower ratio, in the 3.50:1 range. Going with a little lower ratio in the rear end will make a big difference in seat of the pants feel on acceleration. Edit: And of course, the carburetor can have a huge effect on power. You may be too lean until the secondary throttle plates begin to open. The Clevelands like 12° to 16° initial ignition timing. What is your timing set at?
  6. With the converter fully seated and the transmission installed you need about a 1/8" gap between the flexplate and torque converter so there is no pressure against the pump. If you can measure everything that close you should be good. However, I would still check for the clearance after you get the transmission bolted into place and before bolting the converter to the flexplate.
  7. Go to the hardware store, buy some 18 gauge sheet metal, and start making patch panels. You can clamp 2x4s or angle iron together for minor breaking (bending), lay it on a couple of boards and stomp on it, beat the hell out of it with a hammer, etc. Watch how Ian Roussel builds panels for his custom cars. You'll be surprised on what you can build. Full Custom Garage | MAVTV Motorsports Network
  8. +1 on sound (and vibrations) traveling. You'd be surprised on how often an engine knock turns out to be something external, such as loose fastener or tailpipe touching something.
  9. My car doesn't have the lettering, so I'm making assumptions (my apologies). I'm assuming that the "M" is wider than most of the other letters and I'm assuming that some form of kerning was used, especially between the "T" and "A", and maybe between the "A" and "N". If kerning was not used the spacing would have made 'MUST' look like one word and 'ANG' like another. The effects of a wider M and kerning would push the T to the right of center, again assuming that the outer edges of the M and G were evenly spaced from the edges of the trunk lid. It's strange the Assembly Manual didn't address this. They must have had a template they used on the assembly line, they didn't have the time to eyeball or measure the letter spacing horizontally or vertically.
  10. There's a voltage regulator for the gauges (instrument voltage regulator) that works by contacts opening and closing and reducing the power to an average of around 6 volts, hence pulsing. The purpose is so the gauges don't fluctuate as the alternator voltage increases and decreases with engine RPM.
  11. Fuse #4, 14 amps, is the one for the idiot lights, seat belt buzzer, and throttle position solenoid.
  12. Use the stock locations, where the senders (switches) are now placed. The oil pressure sender is at the back of the engine, right behind the intake manifold, and points up. The temperature sender is at the front of the block, pointing forward between the heater hoses. If you do decide to keep the lights you can install a tee for the oil pressure line and the sender. For the water temperature, use the stock location for your new sensor, and move the stock sender to the plug located on the side of the water pump right below the existing sender location.
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