Jump to content

Don C

VIP Members
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Don C last won the day on August 1

Don C had the most liked content!


About Don C

  • Birthday 03/29/1945

Vehicle Info

  • My Car
    1971 Mustang Sportroof M code


  • Location
    Springfield, OR
  • Region

Personal Information

  • Sex

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

Don C's Achievements

Grand Master

Grand Master (14/14)

  • Very Popular Rare
  • Dedicated Rare
  • Conversation Starter
  • Week One Done
  • One Month Later

Recent Badges




Community Answers

  1. You need to troubleshoot it to find out for sure where the problem is. If you are getting 12 volts at the starter solenoid when it is hot, with the key in start, that means the problem is in the starter or starter solenoid. If not, the problem is in the ignition switch or between the switch and solenoid.
  2. You'll have to figure out a way to see if the small wire from the red/blue stripe that runs to the solenoid has 12 volts on it at the solenoid when the ignition switch is in the start position, such as a light or meter jumpered from it to a location where you can see it while turning the key. If you don't have voltage at that point you'll need to determine if you have voltage coming out of the ignition switch on the red/blue stripe wire.
  3. Yes, it originally had insulation under the floor mat and in the roof. A popular substitute for the original fiber insulation (sound deadener) is Dynamat and similar products: Dynamat XGMC1D (summitracing.com) Summit Racing SUM-879020 Summit Racing® Ultra Heat Barrier and Sound Deadening Mats | Summit Racing A similar lower cost product is available from hardware stores: Peel & Seal Instant Waterproof Repairs 6-in x 25-ft Aluminum Roll Flashing in the Roll Flashing department at Lowes.com Welcome to the forum, from Oregon
  4. How do you have your starter wired? Do you use the original solenoid to power the solenoid on the starter?
  5. If you decide to make your own you might want to take a look at cupronickel tubing, easier to work with than coated steel or stainless steel and will never rust. Copper Nickel (Cupronickel) Tubing Kits – TheStopShopParts
  6. That's about half of the voltage you should get with the original wiring. Did someone also add in a ballast resistor, in addition to the stock resistance wire? Have you measured the running voltage with the coil you're now using? I suspect your old coil was shorting out internally, if you don't have an added ballast resistor. The higher the load on a resistance circuit, the lower the voltage will be. Pertronix has 1.5 ohm coils that are designed to work with their modules and with stock (resistance wire) circuits, providing you supply the PII with full battery voltage with one of their relays (part no. 2001). Using a 0.6 ohm coil doubles the amperage in the circuit, and the load through the tachometer. The MSD adapter would allow you to use the 0.6 ohm coil and PII at battery voltage and still have a functioning tachometer.
  7. It's part of what is called the window stop assembly Door Glass - Window Stop - Upper - Used for 1971 Mercury Cougar, 1972 Mercury Cougar, 1973 Mercury Cougar, 1971 Ford Mustang, 1972 Ford Mustang, 1973 Ford Mustang at West Coast Classic Cougar :: The Definitive 1967 - 1973 Mercury Cougar Parts Source (cougarpartscatalog.com)
  8. I encountered a 2-barrel carburetor in a Fairmont that had idling problems. Turned out to be a porosity in the casting that drained into the intake manifold. It was bad enough that it added about a quart to the oil pan. At first I thought it was a fuel pump problem, took a while to chase it down, took the carburetor off, set it on the bench, filled the bowl with gas and it all ran out in a few minutes. This was a few years newer when quality control problems were running rampant, I never encountered this before or since.
  9. Big hammer works every time (well, almost).
  10. You cannot connect both the tachometer and the relay to the coil, it sounds like the relay is being self energized. Like Steve said, use the relay to supply voltage to the module, not the coil. If you want to keep the 0.6 ohm coil you'll need to get the MSD Tachometer adapter (Part No. 8920) and disconnect the factory wire from the positive side of the coil, connect it to the relay and then use the MSD adapter to provide the pulses for the tachometer. Or, the cleanest way would be to get Rocketman (a site supporter and advertiser) to convert your tachometer to a 3-wire.
  11. In case you're wondering how the mask wearing guidelines are determined
  • Create New...