Don C

There are two possibilities for 4V heads used in '73, they both have open chambers (75.4cc) but one has small valves (2.04/1.66") and the other has large valves (2.19/1.71"). Do you know what the casting numbers are? That said, the open chamber heads still have the potential for making good power on pump gas and mild cams. Do you have the specs on the cam? Was it degreed when it was installed? If it is retarded you will have less bottom end and more top end power. The other potential issue is in the rear end gearing. Your car probably came with a rear end ratio of around 3.00:1. Even a mild cam is likely to want a lower ratio, in the 3.50:1 range. Going with a little lower ratio in the rear end will make a big difference in seat of the pants feel on acceleration. Edit: And of course, the carburetor can have a huge effect on power. You may be too lean until the secondary throttle plates begin to open. The Clevelands like 12° to 16° initial ignition timing. What is your timing set at?

With the converter fully seated and the transmission installed you need about a 1/8" gap between the flexplate and torque converter so there is no pressure against the pump. If you can measure everything that close you should be good. However, I would still check for the clearance after you get the transmission bolted into place and before bolting the converter to the flexplate.

Welcome from Oregon.

Go to the hardware store, buy some 18 gauge sheet metal, and start making patch panels. You can clamp 2x4s or angle iron together for minor breaking (bending), lay it on a couple of boards and stomp on it, beat the hell out of it with a hammer, etc. Watch how Ian Roussel builds panels for his custom cars. You'll be surprised on what you can build. Full Custom Garage | MAVTV Motorsports Network

+1 on sound (and vibrations) traveling. You'd be surprised on how often an engine knock turns out to be something external, such as loose fastener or tailpipe touching something.

Just take the shackles off, after you support the car.

My car doesn't have the lettering, so I'm making assumptions (my apologies). I'm assuming that the "M" is wider than most of the other letters and I'm assuming that some form of kerning was used, especially between the "T" and "A", and maybe between the "A" and "N". If kerning was not used the spacing would have made 'MUST' look like one word and 'ANG' like another. The effects of a wider M and kerning would push the T to the right of center, again assuming that the outer edges of the M and G were evenly spaced from the edges of the trunk lid. It's strange the Assembly Manual didn't address this. They must have had a template they used on the assembly line, they didn't have the time to eyeball or measure the letter spacing horizontally or vertically.

Pik-a-Part or other wrecking yard

There's a voltage regulator for the gauges (instrument voltage regulator) that works by contacts opening and closing and reducing the power to an average of around 6 volts, hence pulsing. The purpose is so the gauges don't fluctuate as the alternator voltage increases and decreases with engine RPM.

Fuse #4, 14 amps, is the one for the idiot lights, seat belt buzzer, and throttle position solenoid.

Use the stock locations, where the senders (switches) are now placed. The oil pressure sender is at the back of the engine, right behind the intake manifold, and points up. The temperature sender is at the front of the block, pointing forward between the heater hoses. If you do decide to keep the lights you can install a tee for the oil pressure line and the sender. For the water temperature, use the stock location for your new sensor, and move the stock sender to the plug located on the side of the water pump right below the existing sender location.

Are you talking about where to connect them to the engine? If so, do you want to keep the warning lights active?

Not just parts, either. Needed 140 12"x12"x2" concrete pavers today, neither Lowes nor Home Depot had them locally or at nearby cities. Fortunately a regional hardware chain (Jerry's) had pallets of them at their local stores.

I have a Ford Motorsport air cleaner and the bolt hole spacing for the PCV connector on it is 1 7/8 (1.875) inches. The PCV connector looks exactly like the one from Edelbrock. The hose connection is slightly larger than 3/4", about 0.782"

Nice car. Welcome from Oregon.

Please go to the introduction section of the forum and introduce yourself and your car. The search function works very well in this forum. You can download the wiring diagrams for your car in the Wiki section of the forum. You can see a sketch in this thread: Factory tach inop - Page 2 - Electrical, Lighting & Electronics - 7173Mustangs.com Ignition Systems and the Ford Tachometer - Electrical & Lighting - 7173Mustangs.com

If I were going to try it I would use JB Weld. However, I would look for other alternatives, first. What is the spacing on the bolt holes and diameter of outlet? You might be able to use something like this: Amazon.com: Edelbrock 1205 PCV Hose Connection Kit for Use w/PN[1207/1221/4207/4221] PCV Hose Connection Kit : Automotive

My 65-72 Parts Manual shows an illustration on page 25 in Section 160 of the Chassis section, labeled Fenders, Aprons, and Related Parts.

Have you tried the Assembly Manual?

They know that nobody would buy it if they showed it. If it weren't so blatant it wouldn't be so bad. I downloaded PDFTK, tried to get it to open the Assembly Manuals, wants a password. I'm fairly computer literate, but looks like I'm going to have to get my computer progammer son to help me on this one. Edit: I was able to remove the passwords and then removed the watermarks. Now I'll reprint the pages of the Assembly Manuals that I already printed, so I'll be able to read them in the workshop. I prefer the printed versions in the workshop, don't want to grease up my tablet.

Both the balancer and flywheel must be balanced the same as the rotating assembly, internal or external (28 or 50 ounce). The balancer snout length must also match the front of the crankshaft, or spacers can be used on some of them. It's best to get them all from the same place as an assembly so they match.

You might be able to see some benefit from a wider gap, but to do so you should find spark plugs that are designed for a wider gap and that are in the correct heat range. It will be difficult to widen the gap and keep the ground electrode square with the center electrode and across the center electrode. Unless someone else has successfully done it, it will likely require some experimentation.

The nice thing about having a car that is not a desirable 'collectable' is that you can do whatever you want to make it your car, without worrying about if your modifications are devaluing it.

That depends on whether you have the original gauges, or not. With the gauges you will not have a wire connected to the stator terminal ln the alternator. Without gauges the stator wire is white with a black stripe. You can see the differences in the file in this thread Alternator and Regulator Wiring - Electrical, Lighting & Electronics - 7173Mustangs.com You can also download the wiring diagrams for your car in the Wiki section of this forum.

I believe that Wheel Vintiques is owned by Coker Tires.