Don C

That's about half of the voltage you should get with the original wiring. Did someone also add in a ballast resistor, in addition to the stock resistance wire? Have you measured the running voltage with the coil you're now using? I suspect your old coil was shorting out internally, if you don't have an added ballast resistor. The higher the load on a resistance circuit, the lower the voltage will be. Pertronix has 1.5 ohm coils that are designed to work with their modules and with stock (resistance wire) circuits, providing you supply the PII with full battery voltage with one of their relays (part no. 2001). Using a 0.6 ohm coil doubles the amperage in the circuit, and the load through the tachometer. The MSD adapter would allow you to use the 0.6 ohm coil and PII at battery voltage and still have a functioning tachometer.

It's part of what is called the window stop assembly Door Glass - Window Stop - Upper - Used for 1971 Mercury Cougar, 1972 Mercury Cougar, 1973 Mercury Cougar, 1971 Ford Mustang, 1972 Ford Mustang, 1973 Ford Mustang at West Coast Classic Cougar :: The Definitive 1967 - 1973 Mercury Cougar Parts Source (cougarpartscatalog.com)

I encountered a 2-barrel carburetor in a Fairmont that had idling problems. Turned out to be a porosity in the casting that drained into the intake manifold. It was bad enough that it added about a quart to the oil pan. At first I thought it was a fuel pump problem, took a while to chase it down, took the carburetor off, set it on the bench, filled the bowl with gas and it all ran out in a few minutes. This was a few years newer when quality control problems were running rampant, I never encountered this before or since.

Big hammer works every time (well, almost).

You cannot connect both the tachometer and the relay to the coil, it sounds like the relay is being self energized. Like Steve said, use the relay to supply voltage to the module, not the coil. If you want to keep the 0.6 ohm coil you'll need to get the MSD Tachometer adapter (Part No. 8920) and disconnect the factory wire from the positive side of the coil, connect it to the relay and then use the MSD adapter to provide the pulses for the tachometer. Or, the cleanest way would be to get Rocketman (a site supporter and advertiser) to convert your tachometer to a 3-wire.

In case you're wondering how the mask wearing guidelines are determined

The digital manuals are what I would call medium resolution scans of old printed manuals. I got mine from FordManuals.com, they are published by Forel Publishing and are copywrited. I was able to print mine out and put them in binders, so have them for the workshop. The digital copies are handy to look at when in the house. Some of the illustrations leave something to be desired, but I believe they weren't all that good in the originals, either. Forel was responsive when I had problems with printing them out, due to the copywrite protection, and they send me a revised authentication key. If I ever come across a decent (quality and price) original set I will get them also.

Excellent idea, David. If I ever find a machinist that I think is up to the job I have a block and a pair of heads that need some work and I will do something to identify them. I've used initials and partial SSN on things in the past. The last time I had machine work done I knew the shop and machinist. Moved too many times, don't know anyone, now.

I don't think the VIN has been filed or ground off. I think the assembly line worker whose job it was to stamp the partial VIN was hung over and hitting the stamps hard with the hammer reverberated through his or her head, or maybe was using a rubber mallet to keep the noise down

Leave it open. If you connect them the buzzer will sound whenever the key is on and the belts aren't connected.

It depends on whether or not you want to keep the seatbelt warning circuit active. The stock manual transmissions had a separate switch for the seatbelt warning circuit. What switches does your Tremec have?

F is Dearborn. Torinos and Thunderbirds also had the 429 in 1971. They were called Thunderjet in the Thunderbirds.

Maybe that number after the F is a 4 instead of a one. I believe that the sequential numbering included all cars in the Ford lineup, and not just for one model group.

I would have kept it as a reminder about buying stuff (or not) from S.D. When you have a frustrating day, it would have been a good target for blows from the big hammer.

Getting the initial torque setting is the key to getting them adjusted correctly. Turn them several times and check the torque again. You also have to take into consideration that these specs were for stock wheels and tires. With larger wheels and tires the 'bending moment' on the bearings will be greater and I would compensate by torquing to the upper range, both initial and final.

If you know a veterinarian you might want to borrow a pair of their shoulder length rubber gloves and wear a rain coat and face shield. No matter how long you let it set and drip dry you'll still get rained on by fluid when you start removing screws and nuts on the valve body.

Yes, red with light blue stripe are for the neutral safety switch, and connected together to provide power to the starter solenoid. The back up light wires are actually called white with purple stripe and black with pink stripe, and are connected together to provide power to the lamps. The white with purple stripe wire is the one that connects to the fuse block and provides the power and the black/pink wire runs to the lamps.

The most common cause of ticking from the heads is loose lifters, which may be caused by stuck or collapsed lifters. When do you hear the ticking? Just at idle, or all of the time? Low oil pressure can also cause the ticking, because the lifters aren't getting enough oil to pump up the lifters. Have you checked the oil level lately?

Traction bars will help the spring wrap on acceleration and keep the differential pointed ahead instead of up.

The easiest way is to get a converter, as shown in the 7th post in this thread (no need to run extra wires), and a wiring diagram shown in the 13th post, as well as other discussions about it in UK and Australia. And, they're available in Australia tekonsha 118158 | eBay

The '73 wiring has 11 sheets of diagrams plus an index/locator page, so you could do a 4 wide by 3 high matrix. Keeping them at the same size will result in a 70" by 36" poster, with 1" margins and 1/2"spaces between the rows, and keep the grid locator references. Nice to hang on the wall for reference, not so nice under the hood or dash. I have '71 colorized diagrams, not the same format as '72 and '73, not easy to stitch together, and not as easy to follow a wire from beginning to end, but are separated into component groupings.