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Don C

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Everything posted by Don C

  1. There's an article in this post that should give you some help. For the most part they all have the same backing plate for the same diameter, the different widths are compensated for by the offset in the drums.
  2. 245/60R14 on all 4 of mine on 7" rims, 4" backspacing, plenty of clearance.
  3. Looks like the voltage regulator to me. They were originally mounted on the fender apron to the left of the starter solenoid.
  4. FPA has a shorty listed for 460s in Mustangs Ford Powertrain Applications
  5. Well, that sucks. If the rebuilder was that negligent, one, to strip the threads, and two, not to fix it before taking your money, I would be concerned about what else they might have overlooked, especially inside the oil pan. Re-affirms why I do my own rebuilds. Even back when I knew a couple of guys that I would have trusted I did my own.
  6. Try it again, I just tested this one, and it worked. How to install a rear window on a 71-73 fastback - Interior, Seats, Door Panels, Trunk, Glass, etc - 7173Mustangs.com
  7. I had an iPad once, then an Android, now I have a MS Windows tablet, no drama, no proprietary BS, everything works. My '71 has a 3.73 rear end with a Detroit Locker, a lot of fun, zero to 60, not so much on the highway, which is why it's slated to get an overdrive, probably a Gear Vendors, make the C6 operate like a six speed. I always liked splitting gears. I like the thoughts of a 4R70W and locking torque converter, from Monster, and being able to fine tune it with a Baumann controller, but my C6 can handle my abuse, and like I said I like splitting gears. The biggest advantage of the roller lifters is not having to worry about wiping out the lobes on a flat tappet cam. For most driving the flat tappet is just fine, and plenty of choices This brings up a trivia question. Know why lifters are called tappets? When internal combustion engines were developed they all had solid lifters, and were called tappets because of the noise they made (still do). As to availability, there actually are a lot of selections, don't forget about about Lunati and Howards, they have good off-the-shelf roller cam selections for Clevelands, and then you can get a custom grind. But you're right, not cheap, especially the lifters.
  8. If you're keeping that rear gearing you are somewhat limited on camshaft selections. You probably wouldn't want to go with more than 285° advertised duration on the intake and around 290° on the exhaust. Clevelands can handle 0.030" over with no problem. You can play around with a cam selector in the spreadsheet in this thread, to see what the variables are and what effect they have. Camshaft Selection - Engine, Transmission, Drive Line, Etc - 7173Mustangs.com That said, I would go with a 393 or 408 stroker kit from Scat, will come with pistons, rings, crankshaft, rods, bearings, damper, and flex plate. That will give you the power and burn your tires off, even with that rear end. Stroking an engine makes a big increase in torque. My personal preference is to assemble the engine myself, I like doing it, a lot of personal satisfaction comes with it.
  9. When you have air conditioning it requires a 30 amp fuse. Without air conditioning it would be 14 amps. But, why did it blow in the first place? Possibly due to corrosion inside the glass tube, which is common, which would cause resistance and heat.
  10. The part number for the Pertronix relay is P2001.
  11. I would start by eliminating possible sources of the problem. I like to start with the easiest, disconnect the compressor clutch under the hood and see if it still pops the fuse, just running on the blower, if it does then it's likely something failing in the blower motor. If the fuse doesn't blow, the problem is likely the compressor. My first suspect is the windings in the compressor clutch shorting out. It's also possible one of the wires has compromised insulation and is shorting out. More difficult to trace, lets you find out what kind of contortionist you could be.
  12. Ford connected the choke to the stator connector on the alternator. This provides power only when the engine is running, so leaving the key on will not cause the choke to open. However, this only provides around 8 volts and aftermarket carburetors require 12 volts. This may slow down the aftermarket choke opening slightly. The Pertronix relay is designed to operate on the reduced voltage from the resistor wire to the coil, so it would connect there. If you have an aftermarket carburetor I would add another Pertronix relay for the choke, triggered by the stator and powering the choke with battery voltage, easier than running a wire from the fuse block and through the firewall. Or, if you're not concerned with the choke opening when the key is on, power it from the relay for the Pertronix module. As noted previously, leaving the Pertronix module powered with the engine not running is likely to damage it.
  13. With both the coil and choke connected through the resistor wire all you would be getting to both the coil and choke is around 5 to 6 volts, it's a wonder that your engine would run or the choke would get warm enough to open.
  14. At what ratio were these funds applied? Ours seem to be around 3:1, with me being the 1, of course.
  15. I think Midlife was thinking about his joy stick, and not one from a World War 2 airplane
  16. Just because the parts house they normally use down the street doesn't have them, the parts are readily available: Trans Parts Online FMX FMX Transmission Parts Ford | Lincoln | Mercury Transmission Parts - FMX - Rebuild Kits - Global Transmission Parts Ford FMX transmission (charlietranny.com) FMX (onlinetransmissionparts.com) There obviously aren't as many FMX transmissions around these days, but hundreds of thousands of Fords had them. They are no more difficult to rebuild than any other automatic. You might try looking for some independent transmission repair places, and forget about using a chain shop. I'm sure there are rebuild videos on YouTube, you might even consider rebuilding your own.
  17. That's why cars burn up. It's good that you found it.
  18. The problem with trying to use the heads alone is that the same casting numbers were used on "regular" Clevelands and on CJs. I have a set of 1973 CJ (Q code) heads that have the D1ZE DA casting number dated May 11, 1972, and have 2.19 and 1.71 inch valves. Later 1973 CJ heads were D3ZE-AA with 2.04 and 1.66 inch valves. The D1ZE DA heads I have also have the 4 with a dot (ball) in the corner and are open chamber. The casting numbers are on the under-side of the intake ports and require removing the intake manifold to see them. The '73 CJ block I have has a casting number of D2AE CA, which is a 4-bolt block and casting number. However, the block casting numbers are not always a good indicator, either. All Cleveland blocks could be either 2- or 4-bolt, by selection of the main bearing caps. The best way is to find out if you have a 4-bolt block, which was generally used on only the CJs, although there were some "regular" Clevelands that had 4-bolt blocks. The easiest way is to drain the oil and use a bore scope to look at the main bearing caps, to see if they are 2- or 4-bolt.
  19. Gatorman lifters require tall lifter bores to keep the oil band from coming up out of the lifter bores. Do you have lifter bushings that extend up enough? Otherwise the lifters will loose pressure every time they are pushed up, resulting in collapsing at higher speeds. A reduced base circle camshaft also helps.
  20. Don't hold your breath, waiting for a reply, the last time he was on the forum was 2 years ago. It appears he just joined to sell a few items
  21. Yes, that will give you a functioning system. Make sure the PCV valve is correct for your engine and that the valve inside of it moves. When you shake it up and down you'll hear it move. The valve is controlled by a calibrated spring. Under high manifold vacuum the valve is partially closed, limiting the amount of extra air entering the manifold and reducing the lean condition. Under acceleration, when the manifold vacuum is low, the valve opens further, this is also when the most bypass fumes enter the crankcase. If the engine backfires the valve closes to prevent it from entering the crankcase.
  22. There is not enough vacuum in the air cleaner (unless the filter element is plugged with dirt) to draw in the fumes from the crankcase. Both the breather and PCV are basically operating at atmospheric pressure. For it to function and evacuate the fumes the PCV valve must be plumbed into the intake. The fumes consist of moisture, unburned fuel and vapors from the engine oil, not something you want to stay in the crankcase and turn into corrosive goop. The breather side of the system is plumbed into the air filter housing to provide a clean air source so that dust and dirt is not drawn into the crankcase. The need for removing the fumes was recognized way back, and the original system was what was called a road draft tube to draw out the fumes and a breather cap that had some filtering built into it.
  23. That's about right for an altitude near sea level and a mildly modified or stock engine. As long as it works is what is important, you'll be looking at variations in the vacuum as you tune it.
  24. Possibly a leak at the manifold gasket around the exhaust crossover or a porosity in the manifold allowing exhaust gases to enter the manifold. Or an intake valve not closing intermittently, or a valve timing problem. With a mild cam there shouldn't be enough valve overlap/early valve opening to cause that much reversion. I would also pull one of the breather caps to see if you're getting puffs out of it. If you are the crankcase pressure may be entering the intake through the PCV valve. Make sure the PCV valve is functioning correctly, high pressure should cause it to close.
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