Jump to content

Don C

VIP Members
  • Content Count

    6,895
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    57

Posts posted by Don C

  1. I wouldn't start replacing your wheels before verifying it is a wheel. It easy to check the lateral and radial runout. You may have a bent rear axle. If you do have runout on a rear wheel, swap it for one from the front that has already passed the test, to see if the runout goes away. Then verify by measuring the runout on the axle flange, this will require a dial indicator.

  2. To answer your question about phosphate, here is what I use, hopefully there is something comparable over there. It can be used on rusted or bare metal.

    https://www.amazon.com/Krud-Kutter-Remover-Inhibitor32-Bottle/dp/B0044UP9XU/ref=sr_1_1?crid=TW6PLY68XXKN&dchild=1&keywords=must+for+rust&qid=1606245996&sprefix=Must+fo%2Caps%2C458&sr=8-1

    It's good to use after you sand off a section of paint, so you don't have to immediately prime it to prevent flash rust.

    • Like 1
  3. Way back when, a co-worker's late 60s Bonneville was overheating in the summer, and he pulled the thermostat out thinking that would help. He would drain the antifreeze during the summer and fill it with water, thinking water cooled better. He asked me for some help on it. The tubes in the radiator didn't look bad, but didn't look like much flow through the radiator so I pulled the upper hose off the thermostat housing and had him start the engine. The water created a fountain maybe 6 inches high. After pulling the water pump and looking at the half size impeller blades I explained what was happening, impeller blades both rusting and wearing down, and a 50/50 antifreeze mixture would have prevented it, plus better cooling than straight water. After installing a new pump I showed him the difference, a fountain more than two feet high at idle. His car was 5 or 6 years old at the time. After flushing the radiator and installing a new thermostat and Prestone, no more overheating problems.

    I've also encountered pressed on impellers turning on the shaft.

  4. A solid work bench, preferably with a metal surface. A decent sized vice, well anchored.

    You'll be able to do a lot with your basic tools. No matter how many you have you'll occasionally have to add a new one. As stated previously torque wrenches are a must for assembly. Dial or digital calipers, dial indicators, cylinder bore gauges, come in handy. A variety of pullers, for gears and pulleys. For suspension work you'll need tools to separate the various joints. Good jack stands. I have a hydraulic press, don't use it often, but it is invaluable at times. Drill press. Anvil. Snap ring pliers. C-clamps, small to large. Crimping/stripping tools for electrical work. Soldering irons/guns. Gas welding outfit, arc welding outfit.

    I started out with what I could put in a decent sized tool box. Then I needed a small roller, then a medium sized roller, then a large roller plus the two old ones. Of course this was over many years. Quite a few are yard sale and flea market tools, sometimes you can get some real bargains on high quality and specialty tools.

    When you think about your Dad's tools think about what you use most or would like to have most.

    Good luck with your project.

  5. The mechanical fuel pump does have a check valve to prevent backflow to the tank. Because the float valve sets at the top of the fuel  bowl fuel cannot run from the bowl back to the tank, unless the valve seat gasket is leaking or not tightened down on two barrel carburetors, then some could run back into the fuel line. However, if the check valve is leaking in the fuel pump the pump will not function very well. If your fuel is disappearing from the fuel bowl it is into the intake manifold or onto the intake manifold from  a leaking component or porous casting.

  6. There's no clear cut answer as to when brake horsepower (gross) changed to SAE net horsepower ratings. California required all cars beginning with the 1972 model to use SAE net. Car manufactures complied for cars sold in California and during the 1972 model year all switched over to SAE net, not all necessarily at the same time. It behooved them to make the change as soon as possible due to the new EPA requirements, that way they could blame most of the apparent horsepower reduction on the new rating system and not so much on the actual power reduction of the engines. Hopefully someone has more knowledge as to when Ford made the change, and if all car lines and/or engines were changed at the same time.

  7. The map light bulb, as shown in the shop manual, is a 212, so that LED should work. Mine didn't come with a map light, so I made my own.

    You'll need to find two wires to operate your map light, one a key on run/accessory for the on side of the switch and the other from the dome light circuit so the map light comes on when a door is opened or the dome light is turned on. The dome light wire you need to look for is black with a light blue stripe. 

    A good one for the key on run/accessory will be a white wire with purple stripe that powers the radio and a couple of other things, like backup light.

    • Like 1
×
×
  • Create New...