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Don C

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Posts posted by Don C

  1. I had an iPad once, then an Android, now I have a MS Windows tablet, no drama, no proprietary BS, everything works.

    My '71 has a 3.73 rear end with a Detroit Locker, a lot of fun, zero to 60, not so much on the highway, which is why it's slated to get an overdrive, probably a Gear Vendors, make the C6 operate like a six speed. I always liked splitting gears. I like the thoughts of a 4R70W and locking torque converter, from Monster, and being able to fine tune it with a Baumann controller, but my C6 can handle my abuse, and like I said I like splitting gears. 

    The biggest advantage of the roller lifters is not having to worry about wiping out the lobes on a flat tappet cam. For most driving the flat tappet is just fine, and plenty of choices

    This brings up a trivia question. Know why lifters are called tappets? When internal combustion engines were developed they all had solid lifters, and were called tappets because of the noise they made (still do).

    As to availability, there actually are a lot of selections, don't forget about about Lunati and Howards, they have good off-the-shelf roller cam selections for Clevelands, and then you can get a custom grind. But you're right, not cheap, especially the lifters.

  2. If you're keeping that rear gearing you are somewhat limited on camshaft selections. You probably wouldn't want to go with more than 285° advertised duration on the intake and around 290° on the exhaust.

    Clevelands can handle 0.030" over with no problem.

    You can play around with a cam selector in the spreadsheet in this thread, to see what the variables are and what effect they have.

    Camshaft Selection - Engine, Transmission, Drive Line, Etc - 7173Mustangs.com

    That said, I would go with a 393 or 408 stroker kit from Scat, will come with pistons, rings, crankshaft, rods, bearings, damper, and flex plate. That will give you the power and burn your tires off, even with that rear end. Stroking an engine makes a big increase in torque.

    My personal preference is to assemble the engine myself, I like doing it, a lot of personal satisfaction comes with it.

  3. I would start by eliminating possible sources of the problem. I like to start with the easiest, disconnect the compressor clutch under the hood and see if it still pops the fuse, just running on the blower, if it does then it's likely something failing in the blower motor. If the fuse doesn't blow, the problem is likely the compressor. My first suspect is the windings in the compressor clutch shorting out.

    It's also possible one of the wires has compromised insulation and is shorting out. More difficult to trace, lets you find out what kind of contortionist you could be. 

  4. Ford connected the choke to the stator connector on the alternator. This provides power only when the engine is running, so leaving the key on will not cause the choke to open. However, this only provides around 8 volts and aftermarket carburetors require 12 volts. This may slow down the aftermarket choke opening slightly.

    The Pertronix relay is designed to operate on the reduced voltage from the resistor wire to the coil, so it would connect there.

    If you have an aftermarket carburetor I would add another Pertronix relay for the choke, triggered by the stator and powering the choke with battery voltage, easier than running a wire from the fuse block and through the firewall. Or, if you're not concerned with the choke opening when the key is on, power it from the relay for the Pertronix module. As noted previously, leaving the Pertronix module powered with the engine not running is likely to damage it.

    • Like 1
  5. 15 hours ago, Ryunker said:

    So, I was looking at the wiring diagram in preparations for installing an igniter III and I see circuit 16 that feeds the coil is a resistance wire off the ignition switch. How and where does this circuit get modified and be "hidden" from plain sight.

     

    Currently, I also have the electric choke tied into the same circuit.

    With both the coil and choke connected through the resistor wire all you would be getting to both the coil and choke is around 5 to 6 volts, it's a wonder that your engine would run or the choke would get warm enough to open.

    • Like 1
  6. Just because the parts house they normally use down the street doesn't have them, the parts are readily available:

    Trans Parts Online FMX FMX Transmission Parts

    Ford | Lincoln | Mercury Transmission Parts - FMX - Rebuild Kits - Global Transmission Parts

    Ford FMX transmission (charlietranny.com)

    FMX (onlinetransmissionparts.com)

    There obviously aren't as many FMX transmissions around these days, but hundreds of thousands of Fords had them. They are no more difficult to rebuild than any other automatic.  You might try looking for some independent transmission repair places, and forget about using a chain shop.

    I'm sure there are rebuild videos on YouTube, you might even consider rebuilding your own.

    • Like 2
  7. The problem with trying to use the heads alone is that the same casting numbers were used on "regular" Clevelands and on CJs. I have a set of 1973 CJ (Q code) heads that have the D1ZE DA casting number dated May 11, 1972, and have 2.19 and 1.71 inch valves. Later 1973 CJ heads were D3ZE-AA with 2.04 and 1.66 inch valves. The D1ZE DA heads I have also have the 4 with a dot (ball) in the corner and are open chamber. The casting numbers are on the under-side of the intake ports and require removing the intake manifold to see them.

    The '73 CJ block I have has a casting number of D2AE CA, which is a 4-bolt block and casting number. However, the block casting numbers are not always a good indicator, either. All Cleveland blocks could be either 2- or 4-bolt, by selection of the main bearing caps.

    The best way is to find out if you have a 4-bolt block, which was generally used on only the CJs, although there were some "regular" Clevelands that had 4-bolt blocks. The easiest way is to drain the oil and use a bore scope to look at the main bearing caps, to see if they are 2- or 4-bolt.

  8. 55 minutes ago, 73inNH said:

    @boilermaster

    My exact setup:

    1. Run of the mill breather in passenger side valve cover.

    2. PCV in driver side oil cap.

    3. Hose from PCV to 14 round Edelbrock air cleaner.

    A pic of my oil cap is attached.

    Will this work well?

     

    There is not enough vacuum in the air cleaner (unless the filter element is plugged with dirt) to draw in the fumes from the crankcase. Both the breather and PCV are basically operating at atmospheric pressure. For it to function and evacuate the fumes the PCV valve must be plumbed into the intake. The fumes consist of moisture, unburned fuel and vapors from the engine oil, not something you want to stay in the crankcase and turn into corrosive goop.

    The breather side of the system is plumbed into the air filter housing to provide a clean air source so that dust and dirt is not drawn into the crankcase.

    The need for removing the fumes was recognized way back, and the original system was what was called a road draft tube to draw out the fumes and a breather cap that had some filtering built into it.

    • Like 1
  9. Possibly a leak at the manifold gasket around the exhaust crossover or a porosity in the manifold allowing exhaust gases to enter the manifold. Or an intake valve not closing intermittently, or a valve timing problem. With a mild cam there shouldn't be enough valve overlap/early valve opening to cause that much reversion.

    I would also pull one of the breather caps to see if you're getting puffs out of it. If you are the crankcase pressure may be entering the intake through the PCV valve. Make sure the PCV valve is functioning correctly, high pressure should cause it to close.

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