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Don C

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Everything posted by Don C

  1. See if Don at Ohio Mustang or Mike at Motor City Mustang have disk brake spindles. Then buy the calipers, hubs, and rotors. Get a new booster from CJ. Master Power BM15224-1 Mustang Brake Booster Conversion Kit 1971-1973 (cjponyparts.com) If you're planning on larger wheels you could get the conversion kit from Mustang Steve and use newer Mustang calipers Front Disc Brake Conversion Brackets Archives - Mustang Steve
  2. Only if I can go for a ride in it
  3. Nice looking car. I do like Studebakers, they've always had their own unique styling. I had an aunt and uncle who wouldn't own anything else, really pissed them off when Studebaker went out of production. The last car they owned was one of the last American built 1964 Larks. Before you start looking for an in dash tachometer you should take a look at Rocketman's (Bob) conversion. He'll take your idiot light pod and convert it into a 3-wire tachometer that looks factory, part number M7123S. Bob is a forum member and advertiser/site supporter Rocketman's Classic Mustang Innovations (rccinnovations.com) Welcome from Oregon.
  4. You can get an automotive multimeter with tachometer at Harbor Freight without breaking the bank. LCD Automotive Multimeter with Tachometer Kit (harborfreight.com) Knowing your RPM is essential for timing your engine and adjusting the carburetor. Start with setting your initial timing (with vacuum advance hose disconnected and plugged) at 12° before top dead center (BTDC), and idle speed adjusted to 650 RPM (in drive if you have an automatic transmission). That will give you a good starting point for getting your carburetor adjusted. As others have said, backfiring on hard acceleration is indicative of a lean condition. Black smoke can be other things besides a rich carburetor, such as oil burning or blowing carbon out of the engine and exhaust. As you noted, your spark plugs aren't showing rich.
  5. I would reply to them and tell them that you want to use your existing bellhousing and 10 spline clutch and want to know what they have that will work. I would also mention that you want to know what the lengths of each one is. At least it's easy and not expensive to have a driveline shortened by a competent shop. Sounds like someone is working on a commission or for a bonus.
  6. Two things come to mind, how are your engine and transmission mounts? If the engine rotates it may be causing the clutch to engage faster than what you want, due to changing the angles on the Z bar and clutch rod. The other is oil contamination.
  7. I would consider using a weld through primer on overlapping surfaces Weld Through Primer: Complete Guide And Best Products - Metalworkmasters.com Eastwood, SEM, DupliColor and others make it.
  8. My guess is two possibilities, an errant piece of hardware from the intake manifold work or a valve. A dropped valve could occur because of a broken off head, broken spring, broken retainer, or a keeper falling off (especially if it still has the multi-groove valves and keepers.
  9. No, the relay is only for the windows. The only common element is the circuit breaker and the wiring to the circuit breaker.
  10. A set of Shop Manuals (5 volumes plus wiring diagrams) would be the first one I would get. Even if you don't plan on doing all of the work yourself it is a good reference to make sure whoever is doing the work isn't blowing smoke when they tell you what needs to be done. While a set of Assembly Manuals are a great reference for reassembling your car, taking pictures of the tear-down are even better. The illustrations in them are a good reference as well as some of the detailed instructions on how some things go together. The Parts Manuals are also a good reference, especially the illustrations, which show exploded views of the parts. Hard copies of the manuals are available, repro from vendors, originals from eBay sometimes. Electronic (pdf) versions of all of them are also available from vendors. SHOP MANUAL, PRINTED, 1971 FORD MERCURY CAR - #L-27A - National Parts Depot (npdlink.com) SHOP MANUAL, 1971 - #L-SM-71C - National Parts Depot (npdlink.com) The colorized version of the wiring is nice, but not necessary, the wiring diagrams are available on this forum in the Wiki section. WIRE DIAGRAMS, 1971 - #L-WD-71A - National Parts Depot (npdlink.com) CD, FACTORY ASSEMBLY MANUALS, 1971-1973, 6 VOLUME SET - #L-FAM-7173A - National Parts Depot (npdlink.com) Ford eBook Downloads 3 (factoryrepairmanuals.com) If you don't have one, the owners manual is also nice to have, also available from many of the vendors in hard copy. By the way, welcome from Oregon.
  11. Never, ever, replace a circuit breaker or fuse with a section of wire (unless it's a fusible link wire). You'll have to go to a parts store to get anything safe to bypass the breaker, so why not just get the breaker? Much easier and safer to replace it than trying to Jerry rig something. It's a 20 amp breaker and should be located between the solenoid and regulator on the fender apron. Any parts house should have them Bussmann Circuit Breaker BP-CBC-20HB-R (autozone.com)
  12. They have a common power source, from a connection on the battery side of the starter solenoid to a circuit breaker. The circuit breaker likely failed, also possible the connection at the solenoid failed. It's a black with yellow dots wire after the circuit breaker, yellow between the solenoid and relay.
  13. With the pinion bearings being that bad there is likely a lot of metal in the gear oil and has likely also damaged the carrier bearings and possibly the gears. To answer your question, yes the pinion bearing retainer is a separate section and can be removed from the carrier, and the pinion bearings and seal replaced, without removing the carrier.
  14. Only the Q codes have this problem, with a spread bore 4300D carburetor, the M codes have a square bore. There is an adapter that will work, but if you have ram air it places the carburetor too high. Trans-Dapt Performance Products 2199 Trans-Dapt Performance Carburetor Adapters | Summit Racing
  15. Yes, good idea to get it figured out before something lets loose and you need a new block, oil pan, etc. One thing you might do is to pull off the oil filter and dissect it, see if there is any metal in it, use a magnet to check for steel or iron particles.
  16. The turkey pan gasket is steel. The rubber end gaskets are very hard to keep in place and to get sealed. The stock iron manifold will be easier to keep sealed with the turkey pan. However, because of its weight it's harder to get on straight and square. Use the studs in the center holes to help get it aligned. For stock iron intakes: 1. Torque all bolts in sequence to 8-10 ft. lbs. 2. Torque all bolts in sequence to 15-20 ft. lbs. 3. Torque all bolts in sequence to specifications: 5/16" bolts should be torqued to 23-25 ft. lbs. 3/8" bolts should be torqued to 28-32 ft. lbs. Edit: The FelPro instructions are generic and not Cleveland specific, hence the reference to sealing around coolant passages.
  17. One of the problems inherent with aluminum intake manifolds is the different expansion rates of the iron heads and the aluminum. The gasket acts as an interface and allows a slight movement. The gasket sealer that is applied between the gasket and head is to hold the gasket in place while the intake is being installed, and something like Gaskacinch works well. For the surface between the gasket and intake a very thin layer of Right Stuff smeared on with your finger will help seal the steel to the aluminum and allow a little movement. Use Right Stuff on the ends. The intake manifold on the 351-C Ford engine is critical as far as torque rate and sequence are concerned. Intake leaks, although very slight, will affect engine performance and may result in oil burning. Apply the manifold with care, making sure it is aligned correctly, front to rear and side to side, and adhere to the following instructions in three steps. Installing long studs in the four center holes (9, 10, 11, & 12) will assist in getting the manifold aligned correctly. After torquing the rest of the bolts to their initial torque value remove the studs and install the bolts to their initial torque For aluminum intakes: 1. Torque all bolts in sequence to 8 ft. lbs. 2. Torque all bolts in sequence to 15 ft. lbs. 3. Torque all bolts in sequence to specifications: 5/16" bolts should be torqued to 18 ft. lbs. 3/8" bolts should be torqued to 25 ft. lbs. Be advised that the manifold requires retorquing in sequence to full torque after the engine has reached normal operating temperature.
  18. Backfiring can be an indication of a lean condition, which would point to a vacuum leak, and might just be one or two cylinders. Take a look at all of the plugs, see if some are lighter colored than the others.
  19. My first guess is a vacuum leak, getting an intake installed on a Cleveland without any leaks can be a little tricky. Do you have any popping or backfiring when it doesn't want to run? My experience with Edelbrocks is that they have been too rich out of the box. I would back the timing down 4°, see if that makes any difference. Then advance it 4° higher than it is now, see if that makes a difference. You might also try it without the vacuum hose connected to the vacuum advance, and plugged, see what effect that has.
  20. Measure the voltage at the + (positive) terminal on the coil with the points open and closed. When they're open you should get full battery voltage and when they're closed between 6 and 8 volts. Did you verify that your breaker plate ground wire is functional?
  21. You shouldn't be getting that much spark at the points, the condenser should be keeping it at a minimum, so you may have a bad condenser. If you're getting that much spark the points will quickly burn away. You may also be getting full 12 volts at the points instead of reduced voltage through the resistor.
  22. One other thing that can cause your symptoms is if the breaker plate ground wire came loose.
  23. There is a leaf spring on top of the rotor that makes contact with the center terminal and then distributes the spark to the cylinders. I would start by checking the center terminal, especially the carbon nub that the leaf spring rubs against. Did you check the high voltage lead from the coil to the distributor cap?
  24. Please go to the introduction section of the forum and introduce yourself and car. What engine do you have? I believe that all '73s with automatics had a shift rod and a solid downshift rod and lockout rod. E7 in your part number means that your transmission likely came from a late '80s or early 90s vehicle, so may have had a cable. You can get an idea of what transmission it is by the pan shape and number of pan bolts
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