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Don C

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Everything posted by Don C

  1. In the lower right of the box you type in you'll see a pull-down box "Other Media", click on it and select 'Insert Image from URL', paste the picture web address into the box that pops up.
  2. The reason some have 12 volts with the resistor wire in place is that the coil isn't 'loaded'. That is, the negative side of the coil isn't grounded through the points or electronic ignition. You can temporarily ground the negative side of the coil with a jumper wire (for a few seconds) and then check the voltage on the positive terminal, as you said, it should be around 8 volts. To check if voltage is the problem temporarily run a jumper from the battery (positive terminal) to the positive terminal on the coil and try to start it. Do no leave the jumper on for more than a few seconds if
  3. Two potential problems, the P2 works best with full 12 volts, which means you'll need to either bypass the resistor wire or use Pertonix's relay to pull 12 volts directly from the battery. A 0.6 ohm coil should be used with 12 volts, not with the resistor wire.
  4. Check with Don at Ohio Mustang and Mike at Motor City Mustang, they both have parts cars.
  5. Unless you're doing a concourse restoration I would break or cut off the remnants of that clip and get something like this: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-2-Pack-Steel-Suspension-Clamp/3013243
  6. Paint, while not a permanent item, tends to stay on a car for a long time, due to the time and expense of changing colors. My recommendation, pick the color you think would look best on your car and you will be the most satisfied with. If you go with the popular vote you will most likely be saying in a few months, "Why didn't I...."
  7. 3-point retractables with push button https://www.southernrods.com/seat-belts/3-pt-shoulder-harness-seat-belt.html
  8. Is the master cylinder for disc front, drum rear brakes, and are they plumbed correctly? The drum brakes should have a residual pressure valve in the master cylinder, which may be applying enough pressure to keep the disc pads making enough contact to prevent the front wheels from turning freely.
  9. 1902 - Model of 1902 #999 Ford race car
  10. You might also try posting them in the Classified section of the forum. If someone is looking for parts that will be the logical place to look.
  11. Yeah, back in the day you just left it in for a while, drain and flush, and then use a neutralizer and flush again. But it just took 30 minutes, not 3 days. Yes it was toxic. While the new stuff may not be toxic it can still flush out some lead and other metals with it.
  12. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/prestone-4666/chemicals---fluids-16461/maintenance-chemicals-16867/radiator---cooling-25136/radiator-flush-17737/02670340b31b/prestone-flush-and-cleaner/as105y/4666545?q=radiator+flush&pos=1 This is good to flush the crud out of the block and radiator https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/prestone-4666/belts-hoses-16454/antifreeze-flush-kit-test-17481/5c22aa2bdb80/prestone-antifreeze-flush-and-fill-kit/afkit/4666543?pos=4
  13. Did you look at his monthly summary? 79 bids on 29 items, and 38 withdrawn bids.
  14. it is very difficult to change pistons with the engine in the car. Just getting the oil pan off will take longer than pulling the engine. Whether it needs bored or not depends on the condition of the cylinder walls.
  15. Here are the Mustang Steve's conversion brackets, they fit drum brake spindles, only https://www.mustangsteve.com/product-category/front-disc-brake-conversion-brackets/
  16. Imagine a torque curve like that on an engine that isn't supposed to have any low end.
  17. +1 on do not run without a thermostat, especially in hot climates. The thermostat provides enough restriction in the water flow so the coolant has time to absorb heat in the block and then transfer the heat to the air in the radiator. You may have overfilled the radiator. When you shut the engine off all of that engine heat transfers into the coolant in the block, may even cause some of it to boil, expanding the coolant and causing some to burp out.
  18. I had a Y block I had taken out of a '64 F100 and transplanted into a '55 Willys 4x4 wagon and ran it for 30+ years on unleaded with no problem. However, the '70 390FE I put in the '64 F100 only went about 15 years before the valves recessed enough to cause the engine to idle rough. Pulled the heads off it and some were recessed more than the thickness of the valve heads. The Willys wagon was my daily driver and our family weekend trips into the mountains, so it was driven a lot. The F100 was only used occasionally, so the 390 probably had 1/4 the miles of the Y block in the Willys. Since
  19. 10° should be easier to start with than 16°. At first I thought you might be having a carburetor heat soak/percolation problem, but now I'm think something else because it won't start. The backfiring through the carb can be an indication of a lean issue, or a really bad ignition timing problem. The other possibility for the slipped timing is that the pin that holds the gear to the distributor shaft has sheared. Does your car have the stock volume and pressure oil pump? Just in case it is flooded I would let it set for a while and try starting it again. Also check your oil to see
  20. It's not a real big job, the radiator, water pump, harmonic balancer/crankshaft pullies, and timing cover have to be removed. Yes, to really get the potential benefits from the head swap you should correct the cam timing. The camshafts in the CJs have a little better grind than the M codes, when the cam timing is set right. When you find the heads I would have them machined for adjustable rocker arms and have hardened valve seats installed and install new valve springs and one-piece valves. Have the valve guides checked also.
  21. Timing ring on the harmonic balancer slipping is one possibility.
  22. That's always a gamble that the retaining washer is in place on the pump drive shaft. When you pull the distributor out the rotor will rotate some, due to the angle cut on the gears. After you get the distributor pulled up far enough so the rotor is free you turn the rotor enough so the gear drops down into the camshaft 1 or 2 teeth in the direction you want the correction to be in. What is the timing now, at idle with the vacuum advance removed and plugged?
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