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Don C

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Everything posted by Don C

  1. The fork looking thing is to hold the metal tube portion of the PS hose in the correct position.
  2. x2 - - - No wonder GM always hid them at the back of the engine...
  3. You're right, of course about the FMX, only the C4 and C6 have them on the transmission. However, if you have a 429 with a C6, it'll also be under the shifter bezel.
  4. I could be a high-resistance connection or switch. The fan could also be drawing more current than the fuse can handle, if the electric motor is having problems, such as worn brushes. The only way to make sure is to clean the connectors and the fan switch, and measure the current draw at the fan motor.
  5. No, on automatics it's combined with the neutral safety switch on the transmission, at the lever the shift rod connects to.
  6. If the flexible hose is soft it will get bigger (longer and bigger around) when you push the clutch in, instead of all of the pressure going to the slave cylinder. DOT 4 is good fluid, although I have better results with silicon fluid for hydraulic clutches.
  7. Make sure the glass isn't going down too far, so that it is below the inner and outter belts. The only other thing is the nylon grommet that rides up and down on the "glass run" rod. If it is worn or missing you'll get a lot of rattles.
  8. Is the hose good? A soft hose will expand when you press the clutch. I agree, the reverse bleeder will work better, and make sure all of the air is out of the slave and line.
  9. Yes, I agree, the steel line on the transmission must be the vent, and was also routed to the cannister.
  10. Mine is a '71, so there could be some differences. The steel line that is connected to the charcoal cannister runs over towards the brake booster and goes under it and back to the fuel tank.
  11. You are correct, the line from the vacuum modulator goes to the manifold, on mine the tree is on the manifold. For the charcoal cannister, the steel line from the gas tank is a vent line that connects to the small nipple on the charcoal cannister. The large fitting is connected to the air cleaner so that the gas fumes are vented into the engine and burned.
  12. 245/60R14s front and rear on 8" wide rims
  13. The installation/removal section of my '71 manual is attached. 14-03-04-r.pdf
  14. A general rule of thumb is 10 psi for every 1000 rpm, so it sounds like you're in the ball park. Electronic gauges are dampered so that the readings don't jump around, which may be why you're seeing the gradual climb. A mechanical gauge will usually give you better information, and can also indicate when your main bearings are worn. If, when you are accelerating, maintaining speed, or decelerating and the pressure changes at the same speed/rpm you likely have some bearing issues. Usually, electronic gauges are too dampered to show much, if any immediate change.
  15. Absolutely AMAZING. It's still amazing to me that an average automobile engine actually functions and survives, when you realize that when the car has gone 100,000 miles each piston has travelled more 33,000 miles up and down, the number of times and the speed that valves open and close, and that points could fire an engine at 8,000 RPM. This level of amazing is way beyond that, thanks much for posting this.
  16. The 302 and 351C exhaust manifolds are configured differently, the outlets are in different places, and the widths are different. I would think that the '69-'70 351W Y would come the closest.
  17. Just do a "Save As" and change the name slightly, like adding a 1 to it, and save it to a handy folder.
  18. There were some questions and comments on tire sizes the other day, which made me think about a spreadsheet I had put together some time ago. So, I made it more user friendly and added some additional information to it. You can change tire sizes to see how the widths and diameters change, the approximate rim size, and how the RPMs and speed are effected, see how gear ratios affect RPMs and speed, and the MPH at various RPMs. EDIT: Updated 6/21/2017 with additional information EDIT: Updated 1/21/2019 with additional calculations and additional tire information. Tire Sizes-v4.xlsx
  19. If you're measuring for voltage at the temperature switch (sender) connector, the only way will get it, if the wiring is good, is if the bulb is also good. The 12 volt positive feed is on the other side of the bulb.
  20. Stroking it will be a great way to get some torque, you can easily go over 400 cubes. That with a good dual plane manifold and an RV/towing cam should give you all kinds of power. Summit lists several combinations and brands of stroker kits.
  21. That appears to be a solid-state replacement regulator. Because all of the idiot lights receive +12 volts at the bulb, through the printed circuit, they are turned on when they are grounded at the oil pressure switch, temperature switch, or voltage regulator, OR if you have cracked wring that is rubbing against metal or otherwise becoming grounded. Disconnect the wire from the oil pressure switch and see if that turns the light off.
  22. I learned how to separate them a little differently, with an 8 or 10 pound sledge hammer held firmly behind the joint, to act as an anvil, and then smack it on the other side with a decent sized (3 or 4 pound) hammer. This way most all of the force of the hammer blow is contained in the joint, breaking it loose better, while reducing the shock on the rest of the steering components.
  23. I was trying to come up with something, too. These could probably be positioned so they don't interfer with any of the adjustments, would require additional leveling effort, though, and require jacking up the car to put them on. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G1045-2/ And then, I was looking for slip-plates or turntables, and came across this site, that uses greased floor tiles, with plenty of instructions: http://www.elantragtclub.com/id554.html
  24. When you use it for setting the caster and after you turn the wheels to the 15 degrees this one calls for, I would rock the car back and forth a little to free up the tires and suspension, to take any loading off the suspension caused by turning the wheels. Do the same thing when you set the toe-in, and after making any adjustments.
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