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Don C

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Everything posted by Don C

  1. Does the clatter begin as soon as you start the engine, or does it take a few minutes before it starts? If it begins as soon as you start it I'm leaning towards a valve lifter. If it takes a while it may be oil starvation, with the oil pump sucking in air along with oil, and caused by plugged drain holes in the heads or valley.
  2. I doubt if it would be the timing chain, but it could be the fuel pump eccentric installed wrong or the fuel pump arm not maintaining contact with the eccentric and getting slapped by the eccentric on each revolution. I'm assuming you're using the mechanical pump to feed a surge pump for your FiTech. If you're not using the mechanical pump for fuel supply did you remove it and cap the opening? If not, the fuel pump may installed wrong or causing the noise.
  3. Ask your 'friend' if he heard any gurgling/boiling noises after he shut it off. It's most likely fine. Letting it idle for 7 minutes may not have been long enough for the thermostat to open and pump out much coolant. I would run it until it's warmed up, with the radiator cap off or loose, and the thermostat has opened up, look for bubbles/froth in the coolant. Install the radiator cap and let it run for a while to build pressure. Check the oil, looking for signs of coolant (milky colored oil). Heads and head gasket would be the first thing that got damaged, high enough to be above the coolant level.
  4. Nice looking car. Don't worry about performance, it's not that hard to get over 300 horsepower out of it.
  5. With an automatic transmission the idle speed is usually set with the transmission in drive (see section 24-21-03 in the shop manual).
  6. I connect a mechanical oil pressure gauge in place of the oil pressure sender/switch and have it visible. I prime the oil pump and fill the filter by connecting a drill to the oil pump shaft, and spin it until it builds oil pressure. You can run for a while without coolant, but not without oil pressure. I also start the engine from under the hood so I can keep an eye on everything under the hood, such as watching for leaks, and a way to shut if off, if necessary. If you have a fuel gusher leak, getting from the front of the car to the ignition switch takes way too long. Double check fluid levels, have the timing light ready. Make sure the belts are tight and no loose tools laying around in the engine bay. Be prepared to add more coolant. No loose sleeves or clothes that can get caught. Have a good fire extinguisher ready, a garden hose will just spread burning fuel or oil around.
  7. Something I've done, when I wanted to make sure there is no porosity in unknown welds, is to coat the area by brazing over it, easy to see that there is complete coverage.
  8. Thanks for posting that, Chuck. In all of the times I've browsed the Permatex website I never noticed that section.
  9. Home made, using acrylic prismatic ceiling light panels, and painted with clear red on the inside. It's also possible to make a mold of your existing lens and use red tinted clear acrylic to make your own, but these look like ceiling panel material. OK for show, but they lack the reflectors as required by USDOT.
  10. Yes, black is fine for that, and is what I use.
  11. Some silicone sealers don't do a very good job of adhering to surfaces, The Right Stuff is very sticky. Ford came out with it in the '70s, was somewhat expensive, but worth it. Permatex followed with their version, still a little more expensive than the other not so right stuff, but definitely worth it.
  12. Did you use the gasket that runs across the top of the block? They are hard to keep in place and get to seal. A better option is to run a 1/4" bead of good silicone sealant across the sealing area. The one that is best is called 'The Right Stuff' It comes in a squeeze tube, caulking gun tube, or pressurized can and is available at most auto parts stores and Amazon Permatex® the Right Stuff® Gasket Maker – BLACK – Permatex
  13. I remember those days, I travelled to and worked 2 or 3 days a week in Las Vegas for about 5 years, and then lived there for about 7 years. When the temperature gets to 90, here in Oregon, the humidity seems worse than the heat in Las Vegas. I guess I'm a desert rat and not a duck
  14. I believe that you should be able to work it out on a scope. The lobes on an 8 cylinder are 45º apart and you just need to see what the open/closed ratio is and apply it to the 45º. I can't think of any way to use a regular voltmeter to see what the dwell is. I've never tried to calculate it or tried to find a formula, but you would still need to measure the amount of time they are closed, compared to open. I would just set the points to 0.017", or so to get it to where you need to go. A matchbook cover used to be about the right thickness, if you don't have a feeler gauge handy. For reference, a dime is about 3 times the thickness of the gap you need.
  15. I believe that you have created a self-energizing circuit, where the relay output is backfeeding through the ignition circuit, which keeps the relay engaged.
  16. There appears to be some interest and I've had one request, so attached is the first draft of the conversion. Converting 1971-73 Mustangs to Tilt Steering using a 1986 to 1991 F-Series Steering Column.pdf
  17. And, finally, started on converting the hood latch mechanism to a cable controlled mechanism, with the latch lever only releasing the secondary latch. It looks like it will be fairly easy, the latch lever contacts the main latch mechanism via a small tab, straightening or cutting off the tab will allow the lever to open the secondary latch, only. It will require welding on a small tab to the bottom of the assembly to provide a connection point for the cable housing and also conceal the connection, and welding a small tab to the main latch release lever to connect the cable to. As you can tell, I like building or revising things. The glove box project costs less for materials than a repop glove box, but it took a couple of hours to get it together, if I had to pay myself it wouldn't be cost effective, but I liked doing it.
  18. Another project I've been working on is to convert a '86 to '91 F-series tilt column to a '71 Mustang. I just need to figure out if I'm going to use the Mustang ignition switch or the F-150 switch. I would prefer to use the F-150 switch, higher current capacity, but it's really tight. Did some test fitting and measuring today. I have a write-up about 90% complete, if anyone is interested I'll post it as a draft version.
  19. Made a new glove box out of 1/8" ABS sheeting. It was fairly easy to do, pulled the staples out of the old cardboard box, spread it out and traced it onto the ABS sheet and cut it out. The hardest part was getting the bends right using a heat gun, practiced with some scraps, first. Used ABS cement to connect the sides to the back piece. Used the old plastic trim. A test fit was good. I'm going to try a spray on flocking on the inside, or maybe line it with felt, I haven't used to flock stuff before, don't know if it is durable.
  20. Great to hear from you again. You ears must have burned once in a while, your remote mirror, stereo, and speaker projects have been referenced occasionally. Amazing the amount of kinetic energy behind a moving car, even at one mile per hour, to require that much power to reverse the movement.
  21. Yeah, I wish I had kept one of the paper catalogs, some interesting stuff.
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