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Don C

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Everything posted by Don C

  1. All of the old fuel pumps came with a glass filter/settling bowl on the bottom, and I never had one break. I've had one of the flow-through glass filters on my 351C since I got it, it has a plastic shield that I positioned towards the front and radiator, and used a couple of rubber lined clamps to hold it in place above the water pump so it couldn't bounce around. In twenty years it never started leaking, when I get the engine reinstalled I'll likely replace the gaskets or the filter. I like seeing what the fuel looks like, even more so now in Oregon and the wet weather. I've seen a lot of sed
  2. https://www.npdlink.com/product/tube-pressure-line-to-pump/148862/209608 Also on page 133 of the virtual catalog
  3. There have been a few, here's one https://7173mustangs.com/forums/topic/33814-71-double-din-dvd-with-back-up-camera/?tab=comments#comment-347407 Nobody has written up a tutorial, though In answer to your question, yes that is a single DIN with a flip up. A word of caution about the operating system (Android) it is two versions out of date and there likely won't be any way to update it. The current version of Android is 11. If you try to install apps you'll likely encounter some that require the latest and you'll have no way to update it.
  4. The position of the bellcrank is where it should be at the center of the suspension travel, not at full droop. A well designed watts linkage should be as low as possible to reduce the roll center height. Tony already hit on another drawback of watts linkages, hard to find a place for the exhaust pipes.
  5. Do you have stock ignition, or an electronic ignition? If you have points, the condenser may be the problem, failing when it gets hot. Coils can also fail when they get hot. I would check all electrical connections, if you have points make sure the gap is correct and the ground strap and condenser in the distributor are securely fastened.
  6. What did it do when it quit? Did it backfire, stutter and stumble, lose power before it quit, or just quit like the key was turned off? Did you notice any gas smell when it was off or when you tried starting it?
  7. You can tap into it any place before it changes into the resistor. You can then either tap back into the red/light green wire after the resistor or run the new wire out to the coil. If you use the new wire all of the way then the old wire connectors needs to be protected against shorting out. Make sure the splices are done correctly, bad connections cause fires. Rule #1, no household wire nuts Rule #2, no twisted wire connections (soldered or crimped connectors only) Rule #3, no wrapping connections with cheap electrical tape (self fusing tape or heat shrink tubing (waterpr
  8. Pull the oil filter, dump it out, cut it apart, if it's the lobe wiped out there will be metallic particles in the oil, will look kind of like metallic paint when you look at it in the light.
  9. No, the red/light green wire is what is used to trigger the relay, it is removed from the coil and connected to the purple wire on the relay.
  10. I would check the thermostat first, typical failed thermostat symptoms.
  11. I would check the rear of the intake manifold gasket, the rebuilder likely stuck the cork gaskets on. Also the valve cover gaskets, due to the angle leaks migrate to the rear and then down the back of the block.
  12. Yes, the P3 requires full 12 volts. The instructions say to eliminate the resistor from the circuit. I doubt it you'll find any aftermarket electronic component that is truly plug & play for our cars, that's a term that has become misused for just about everything.
  13. Here's a couple of articles on automotive wiring that may help you http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Automotive_wiring_101 The one in this thread is on Ford wiring and how to read the diagrams https://7173mustangs.com/forums/topic/32456-how-to-read-wiring-diagrams/?tab=comments#comment-333558
  14. it's not needed, if you bypass the resistor wire. Are you sure you need to bypass the resistor wire? What is the part number of the coil you bought, or the primary resistance?
  15. Remove the red/light green wire from the coil connect it to the trigger (small purple) wire on the relay, connect large red wire to battery, orange wire to the +side of the coil. https://pertronixbrands.com/products/pertronix-2001-ignition-power-relay-kit?variant=31797256224804 Here's the instructions https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0247/6913/4628/files/2001.pdf
  16. You can build your own with good materials https://dazecars.com/dazed/sub-frame.html May need some tweaks, though https://7173mustangs.com/forums/topic/29305-subframe-connectors-diy/?tab=comments#comment-301214
  17. The cleanest way to do it, and not have to run another wire through the firewall, is to use the Pertronix relay to power the coil directly from the battery, use the red/light green wire to the coil to trigger the relay.
  18. I've had both mechanical and vacuum secondary carburetors, and prefer the mechanicals. However, mechanical secondaries require better gear management than vacuum secondaries do, and will bog if you're too slow in too high of a gear. If your automatic transmission is slow kicking down you may need to downshift manually.
  19. I agree with Hemikiller, Mustang shakers are too small, would look like a Piper Cub sitting on the deck of the USS Nimitz. One I've thought might work is one from a 1965 Thunderbird. They're more towards the front and look good on the rather large T-bird hood. The only bad part, only the first 3 or 4 inches is removable, the rest of the way to the back is molded. I like the looks of the NACA hood, but with all of the repops going on cars they've become rather common place.
  20. Welcome from Oregon, from a former resident of Visalia.
  21. A word of caution about hanging things from your ceiling. The bottom chord of a lot of normal sized garages are 2x4s and are part of a truss system designed to hold up the roof, not as a weight-carrying structure for attaching items to or as a storage space. No problem with light objects, such as bicycles. The way Tony attached his, at four points, distributes the load out and lifting something like his hood will also be no problem. Trying to lift an ice shack may be a different story, though, even if four attachment points are used. The ice shack is likely to weigh far more than a h
  22. I used my engine hoist, wife's not able to help with something like that, would have had to wait for help from a friend or son.
  23. Have you checked the timing to make sure what you set it at is what the system is actually putting out? Edit: Are you sure what you're seeing on your harmonic balancer is the correct timing? Condition of harmonic balancer, slipped outer ring? Before you connected all of the new fuel lines and tank did you flush them out, especially those after the fuel filter? Have you checked the fuel pressure and volume after the fuel filter? Have you rechecked all of the electrical connections and actual voltages at key points? How did you check the O2 sensor?
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