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Don C

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Everything posted by Don C

  1. Yours is a higher output, 60 amp version. Either rebuild it yourself AMK ARK-1 Mustang Alternator Repair Kit 1965-1986 (cjponyparts.com) Or get one from DB Electric, this one will also give you a power boost Alternator Ford Fairmont Galaxie Ltd Ranchero Torino Thunderbird 72-78 (dbelectrical.com)
  2. +1, if I were to buy the relay harness RCCI (Bob) would be the only one I would buy it from.
  3. The spreadsheet in this thread may help you. And the spreadsheet in this thread will help you with tire sizes
  4. Yes, the food and beer were great. I liked going to gasthauses in the small towns and villages, some brewed their own beer and butchered their own livestock, great atmosphere, treated GIs good and prices were much less than in the cities.
  5. That is nice, but how would you like to open your hood to one of these? https://www.jiminglese.com/weber-8-stack-v8-systems#
  6. Thank you for sharing and reviving memories. There's a lot of beautiful scenery in that part of the world. I spent about 2 years in Germany while in the army, and have a lot of good memories. Some of the best are of the Bavarian Alps and Zugspitze Peak. I also spent a lot of my time on other mountain tops in Southern Germany setting up communication sites for the 7th Army to communicate with various units. Spending time in the mountains and sleeping in tents was far better than spending time in the barracks.
  7. Yeah, that article was a little misleading. The lining doesn't contact the full width of the machined area of the drum. Here's what a stock drum looks like, you can see the wear pattern and where the lining doesn't make contact. Also, the width of the 2" drum is almost 2 1/2".
  8. The easiest way to upgrade the rear drums is to put on the Fairlane station wagon rear drums: How-To: Shelby Rear Brake Trick on Early Mustangs (motortrend.com) You can get new ones from NPD DRUM, BRAKE, REAR - #1126-4 - National Parts Depot (npdlink.com) These will give you about a 25% increase in braking surface area, plus the added cooling, and they'll look a little better than the plain drums.
  9. +1, that 3 or 4 degrees of dive isn't enough to make an appreciable difference in the weight transfer, over and above what you described.
  10. With me, I started tearing engines apart and rebuilding them when I was 12 years old (started with lawnmowers and go karts) and evolved into motorcycles and cars when I was 15 or 16. Back then cam choice was easier, basically 3/4 race or full race for us normal guys. I still do a lot of research and reading, still learning about what makes these beasts perform right. And, I do watch Engine Builders, even as much as those guys know, they still seem to learn things when they run them on the dyno. I like Frieberger, he's the first to say "That's not what I expected." Part of the problem is, there are no absolutes. Changing one thing, like the length of the collector on the headers can make the carburetor run richer or leaner. Even changing to a different make of dual plane single 4-barrel carburetor intake will change engine response. What works best for me is to generalize (ball-park figures) what I'm going to start with, then fine tune items, like carburetor brand and size, camshaft (roller, flat tappet, lift, duration, lobe separation, etc.), head choice (chamber, valve size, port size, etc.), pistons (flat top, domed, dished, valve reliefs, etc.) and so on. Some of this is controlled by what is available. Custom ground camshafts are about the only thing that are reasonable. Sometimes before I answer a question on the forum I will do additional research before answering, just to make sure, the last thing I want to do is to steer someone wrong. I try to do a little mentoring, lay out choices and what may happen with each one, to get the questioner to think about it and do some of their own research. Rebuilding an engine back to stock is the easiest, but where's the fun in that? Mistakes are very expensive, research and following procedures are the best way to avoid them. No short cuts, ever, don't listen to the buddy down the block that says that's not necessary. Save the adult thirst quenchers until finished for the day.
  11. Yeah, he may as well hear what daddy says, at an early age, when the wrench slips and knocks skin off the knuckles.
  12. I think I have 3 spring compressors, trying to find one that doesn't make my palms sweat when I tighten them up, so far no luck. I'm thinking I'll build my own the next time I need one. Then I can really make my palms sweat .
  13. As shown in the wiring diagram and pinouts, #1 in your picture is circuit 941, black with white stripe wire, runs to the windshield washer motor. #2 is circuit 297, black with light green hash wire, provides power to the switch for the motor, comes from the switch block. #3 is circuit 63, the red wire, runs to the red wire on the motor. #4 is circuit 58, white wire runs to the white wire on the motor. #5 is circuit 28, the black with pink dots wire, runs to the black wire on the motor. #6 is circuit 56, the dark blue with orange stripe wire, runs to the blue wire on the motor. #7 is the white with purple wire, comes from the fuse block to provide power to the washer. The wiper motor is grounded through the brass strap that connects to one of the mounting tabs.
  14. I have definitely thought about it, if I had the space for it I would have already been there and picked it up. Finally someone has Mustang stuff in my vicinity and I can't take advantage of it My wife and I downsized last year, smaller house, smaller yard and smaller workshop. I finally got everything out of storage 4 or 5 months ago, still moving stuff around trying to maximize work space, all mechanic tools and car in the workshop, woodworking and yard tools in the garage. My wife says I have too much stuff, but I use it all occasionally. Some stuff like the engine stand and engine hoist aren't used very often, but when I do need them I have them. I'm in the process of revising my engine hoist so it's easier to break down and store when I'm not using it, can't leave it set up now. When I need to cut some lumber for some project, things like a compound miter saw and table saw are great, can't put down tile without the tile saw, etc. I'd like to install tile in the bathrooms, they're vinyl on the floors. At least the kitchen, laundry room and family room floors already are tiled. Out of all of the places my wife and I have had over the years this house probably needs the least amount of work. Had to build the workshop and still have a few things left in the yard, then back to the Mustang.
  15. @c9zx Another previous owner conundrum, why people do some things defy logic. @bdennisGood eye, that will definitely affect the choke operation, it will be drawing in cold air into the choke sometimes while the carburetor internal connection will be trying to draw in hot air.
  16. You may be adjusting the fast idle screw, which is controlled by a cam on the choke mechanism, which is why the idle speed jumps back up, if the throttle plate closes. The idle speed screw is under where the throttle cable connects to the carburetor on the other side of the carburetor. Make sure the choke is wide open when you try to adjust the idle speed. Also, if your carburetor has an anti-stall dashpot make sure it is not interfering with the throttle lever, I would back it off until you get the idle speed sorted out.
  17. Very nice, welcome from Oregon.
  18. if you're looking for an easy to install and tune carburetor, that works good out of the box, I would take a look at the Summit carburetor: Summit Racing Carburetors Carburetors & Accessories Air & Fuel Delivery - 600-699 cfm CFM Range - Universal Parts & Accessories | Summit Racing I've tried 2 or 3 Edelbrock carburetors, and wasn't that impressed with them, needed tuning out of the box and finicky after getting them running right.
  19. Assuming you mean to add power, bored and stroked to 347 cubic inches, GT40 heads, 4 barrel intake, camshaft, headers. Edit: Of course, one thing leads to another, like upgrading your transmission and rear end.
  20. Welcome from Oregon. Nice looking car, have fun with it making yours.
  21. A picture would help. And, by the way, please go to the Introduction section of the forum and introduce yourself and your car so we'll know who we're talking to and what car you have. We like pictures of Mustangs.
  22. If you don't have a round red light that says "BRAKE" on the lower dash to the left of the headlight switch that will confirm you never had one.
  23. I would start at the back up light switch on the transmission shifter, make sure it is functioning and in the proper position.
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