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Don C

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Everything posted by Don C

  1. Glad to hear the doctor knew how to use the roto-rooter and it worked.
  2. Yeah, I went to the doctor yesterday for a lube job on my right knee (cortisone injection).
  3. The master parts catalog and the shop manual are sources for the distributor numbers. The end play is specified in the shop manual, volume 2, section 23 Are you talking about up and down play or back and forth on the breaker plate? The shop manual will help you on that one, too.
  4. Don C


    The camshaft has nothing to do with TDC, the damper hub is connected directly to the crankshaft, the crankshaft moves the pistons to TDC. The outer ring with the timing markings on it is held in the correct position in relation to the hub and crankshaft by rubber or an elastomeric. Because yours has bits of rubber falling out it is likely the bond between the timing ring and rubber has failed, allowing the ring to rotate around the hub. Edit: You'll have 2 events where TDC shows on the timing ring, one at the top of the exhaust stroke, the other at the top of the compression stroke.
  5. Nice looking car. Welcome from Oregon.
  6. I've encountered that problem a time or two. My solution was to cut out a 1/8" thick steel plate to fit between the adapter and the manifold.
  7. I definitely keep a box of Band-Aids in the workshop and another at the utility sink in the garage. In 60 years of working on cars there was just one incident that required me to go to the doctor, though, and that was when I was much younger and not so bright (even though I thought so at the time). But I have a few scars on my hands and arms, though, to attest to the fact that I like getting involved in my work on cars.
  8. There's not a lot of choices in the 295/17 tires with a 26" diameter. The recommended rim width range for most of them is 9.5" to 11", so a 10 inch rim width should be good. An alternative would be 285/40/17, 26" diameter, less than a half inch narrower, can be installed on 10" width rims, and more available. https://www.tirerack.com/tires/TireSearchResults.jsp?width=285/&ratio=40&diameter=17&startIndex=0&search=true&pagelen=20&pagenum=1&pagemark=1&RunFlat=All
  9. What you'll be installing will have original connectors, that wiring harness doesn't mate to original connectors.
  10. It states in the description that it's not compatible with OEM DuraSpark. The one from Painless that costs $20 less should work.
  11. Easy enough to find online http://www.pertronix.com.au/assets/pdf/Pertronix_Power_Relay_Installation_Instructions.pdf
  12. Because your car is a '71 you likely don't have the throttle position solenoid, so if it were me I would connect it to the battery via a Pertronix relay: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pnx-2001 The relay trigger connects to the positive side of the coil and will then provide clean 12 volts when starting and running.
  13. BTC is Before Top (dead) Center, ATC is After Top Center. In your picture the pointer is at approximately 2° BTC. Depending on engine components you'll want to initially set the timing between 6° and 12° BTC.
  14. I agree completely about the quality of bulbs on both eBay and Amazon. On some I tried, the color temperatures were so high that the bulbs didn't have enough red and amber light spectrums in them to effectively light taillights, marker lights and general purpose lighting. When looking at the lit bulbs they were very bright but wouldn't illuminate very well. Pay more for quality LEDs from a quality supplier and you'll be happy with the results. Plasma LEDs are another choice, are highly rated, and pricey: https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/14755/10043/plasma-led-1157-bulb-red-2-pack-new
  15. We tried one in a Y block several years ago, dealing with the adapters was a PITA with the distributor in the rear, the connections and adapters seemed kind of flimsy. It works on optics rather than induction, like the Pertronix. I changed it to Pertronix when it started acting up, I believe the problem was with the flimsy adapter and keeping the shutter wheel/sensor properly aligned. The Y block was in a '55 Willys 4x4 wagon, so the ride could get a little bumpy. It worked OK when it was working, there was a noticeable improvement after installing a P1.
  16. Did you get the compression numbers? One of the problems with engines that have been worked on previously is that you don't know what they did or tried to do. Why new rods? Rods are generally reused unless it's a performance build or they were damaged. Did the P.O. put in a different camshaft and do it correctly? Did they also put in new pistons, and if so flat topped, dished, or domed? They did make good selections on the intake and carburetor, getting rid of the original 4300D carburetor, but other than that who knows? With those unknowns you just won't know what your engine i
  17. How old is your harmonic balancer? I suspect that the outer ring on it is slipping.
  18. One option is to trade your disk brake spindles for drum brake spindles and install Mustang Steve's brackets for later (and larger) Mustangs brakes and rotors. https://www.mustangsteve.com/
  19. It's not unusual that the sending unit has to be adjusted, you'll need to jack up the left (driver side) of the car high enough that the sending unit can be removed, bend the float arm down a little, lower the car and hopefully your gauge will read 1/4. As to not getting any fuel, did you replace the rubber lines with ethanol resistant hose? The old rubber hose may be collapsing internally and blocking the fuel flow. Do you have a hand operated vacuum pump that you can connected to the fuel line before the fuel pump to see if you can draw any fuel out? If not, your idea of trying to pull
  20. You can use the spreadsheet to get your approximate tire diameter
  21. Good choice, the red grommet is the best one, I didn't know they were available aftermarket.
  22. Felpro has definitely gone downhill. The last time I used Mr. Gasket they were still good. I would put a straight edge across the block, make sure you don't have a problem there.
  23. Here's some more information about Ford speedometer gears and a calculator. https://7173mustangs.com/forums/topic/15595-speedometer-gears/?tab=comments#comment-162044
  24. With a little luck yours may be here https://7173mustangs.com/forums/topic/23844-vacuum-hose-diagrams/?tab=comments#comment-244042
  25. Interesting thing about the MSD box, they are based on DuraSpark, but you are correct, MSD made improvements and they provide better spark, especially at higher revolutions.
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