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Don C

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Everything posted by Don C

  1. Or, like you said, plug the holes and blow it out, please point it away from you , so it doesn't bounce back off a wall
  2. Light green wire with red dots is for the parking brake warning light, should connect to the switch on the parking brake.
  3. Only the portion of circuit 297 that feeds the instrument voltage regulator is a resistor wire. The resistor wire that runs to the ignition coil is part of circuit 16 (red/light green stripe).
  4. Circuit 297 provides power to the instrument voltage regulator. Circuit 60 then provides the reduced and regulated voltage to the gauges. Circuit 29 (yellow/white stripe) then runs from the fuel gauge to the fuel sending unit. If the oil pressure and temperature gauges work the instrument voltage regulator is good. The most likely causes of a non-functioning fuel gauge is the sending unit or a connection between the gauge and sending unit. Temporarily grounding the yellow/white stripe wire at the sending unit will show full indication. Do not leave this connected for more than a few seconds, or the gauge will be damaged. A safer way do do it is to ground it through a 10 ohm resistor, which will show a full tank.
  5. If it did pass through the water pump it may have damaged the fins on the impeller.
  6. Personally, I wouldn't use a relay. To me that's introducing a potential failure point into a circuit that should function fine without it. The solenoid windings shouldn't overload the switch contacts. The windings in the solenoid coil should only draw around 4 amps. If the switch can only handle 6 amps or less using a relay would become mandatory.
  7. That is a strange chunk of gunk. Can you tell what kind of metal it is? It looks like it already came into contact with something, like the impeller on the water pump.
  8. Doesn't the NSS on the Tremec provide connection between the two terminals on the switch when the transmission is in neutral?
  9. A 4300D probably isn't the best carburetor to learn rebuilding on, but if you get it running you won't have to worry about anything else. You should be able to see if the choke is closed when you crank the engine and if it opens some when the engine starts, and fully opens when the engine is warmed up. You can rotate the choke thermostat housing and open the choke some, to see if that helps your startup. If the choke is set too rich the choke blades won't be able to be opened by the choke pulldown and will cause the engine to flood out. Check the pulldown and dechoke clearances. If that doesn't help I would start by removing the carburetor and placing it on a stand so it's elevated above the work bench. Pour some fuel into the fuel bowls and see if you have a leak. I suspect you have a leak in something like a power valve or gasket that is letting fuel run into the intake manifold, flooding the engine. The only adjustments you have that will cause it to flood is the choke. The idle mixture can cause the engine to stall when set too rich or too lean, but shouldn't cause a major flooding like you seem to be experiencing.
  10. The red/blue wire runs through the stock neutral safety switch between the ignition switch and the starter solenoid. If the contacts on the NSS aren't closed when the transmission is in neutral (or jumpered together) the solenoid will not be energized. You will need to find the connector that connects the wires to the stock NSS and either connect them to the Tremec NSS or jumper them together. I strongly recommend that you use the NSS on the Tremec. They are there for a reason, and called SAFETY for a reason. I knew a mechanic that had one of his sons helping him, asked the son to crank the engine while he watched from the front of the car, car was in gear, started and pinned the mechanic between the bumper and garage wall, broke both legs and messed up his knees, and he almost lost his business. Not to mention how his son must have felt. Use the NSS!!!!
  11. Yes, they are both just two wires. For the NSS just connect one of the red/blue wires to one terminal on the Tremec NSS, and the other red/blue wire to the other terminal.
  12. You need to troubleshoot it to find out for sure where the problem is. If you are getting 12 volts at the starter solenoid when it is hot, with the key in start, that means the problem is in the starter or starter solenoid. If not, the problem is in the ignition switch or between the switch and solenoid.
  13. You'll have to figure out a way to see if the small wire from the red/blue stripe that runs to the solenoid has 12 volts on it at the solenoid when the ignition switch is in the start position, such as a light or meter jumpered from it to a location where you can see it while turning the key. If you don't have voltage at that point you'll need to determine if you have voltage coming out of the ignition switch on the red/blue stripe wire.
  14. Yes, it originally had insulation under the floor mat and in the roof. A popular substitute for the original fiber insulation (sound deadener) is Dynamat and similar products: Dynamat XGMC1D (summitracing.com) Summit Racing SUM-879020 Summit Racing® Ultra Heat Barrier and Sound Deadening Mats | Summit Racing A similar lower cost product is available from hardware stores: Peel & Seal Instant Waterproof Repairs 6-in x 25-ft Aluminum Roll Flashing in the Roll Flashing department at Lowes.com Welcome to the forum, from Oregon
  15. How do you have your starter wired? Do you use the original solenoid to power the solenoid on the starter?
  16. If you decide to make your own you might want to take a look at cupronickel tubing, easier to work with than coated steel or stainless steel and will never rust. Copper Nickel (Cupronickel) Tubing Kits – TheStopShopParts
  17. That's about half of the voltage you should get with the original wiring. Did someone also add in a ballast resistor, in addition to the stock resistance wire? Have you measured the running voltage with the coil you're now using? I suspect your old coil was shorting out internally, if you don't have an added ballast resistor. The higher the load on a resistance circuit, the lower the voltage will be. Pertronix has 1.5 ohm coils that are designed to work with their modules and with stock (resistance wire) circuits, providing you supply the PII with full battery voltage with one of their relays (part no. 2001). Using a 0.6 ohm coil doubles the amperage in the circuit, and the load through the tachometer. The MSD adapter would allow you to use the 0.6 ohm coil and PII at battery voltage and still have a functioning tachometer.
  18. It's part of what is called the window stop assembly Door Glass - Window Stop - Upper - Used for 1971 Mercury Cougar, 1972 Mercury Cougar, 1973 Mercury Cougar, 1971 Ford Mustang, 1972 Ford Mustang, 1973 Ford Mustang at West Coast Classic Cougar :: The Definitive 1967 - 1973 Mercury Cougar Parts Source (cougarpartscatalog.com)
  19. I encountered a 2-barrel carburetor in a Fairmont that had idling problems. Turned out to be a porosity in the casting that drained into the intake manifold. It was bad enough that it added about a quart to the oil pan. At first I thought it was a fuel pump problem, took a while to chase it down, took the carburetor off, set it on the bench, filled the bowl with gas and it all ran out in a few minutes. This was a few years newer when quality control problems were running rampant, I never encountered this before or since.
  20. Big hammer works every time (well, almost).
  21. You cannot connect both the tachometer and the relay to the coil, it sounds like the relay is being self energized. Like Steve said, use the relay to supply voltage to the module, not the coil. If you want to keep the 0.6 ohm coil you'll need to get the MSD Tachometer adapter (Part No. 8920) and disconnect the factory wire from the positive side of the coil, connect it to the relay and then use the MSD adapter to provide the pulses for the tachometer. Or, the cleanest way would be to get Rocketman (a site supporter and advertiser) to convert your tachometer to a 3-wire.
  22. In case you're wondering how the mask wearing guidelines are determined
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