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Everything posted by MooseStang

  1. I decided to let the shop that did my 3rd also do my rear bearings. Supposed to pick them up tomorrow. Also getting new Spicer ujoints from OReilly's tomorrow. Hopefully, I'll put everything back together this weekend. I still need to order a new slip yoke when I figure out a source. I asked the gear shop guy about the slip yoke, which he referred me to a driveshaft guy way on the other side of town. Apparently, he's also the only one around that does balancing. He also said there should be a plug in the end of the slip yoke to prevent oil seepage. I don't remember there being one when I remove it. Is there supposed to be one?
  2. He suggested first to run a magnet through the tubes, then use a piece of pvc pipe with rags and brake cleaner. Yes, he did remind me about the additive. I'll probably go back there and get my bearings pressed on, unless I can find someplace closer and maybe cheaper. He quoted me $30 per axle, not sure if that covers parts, probably not. I may have just found another issue though. There's a chip out of the outer edge of my front slip. How bad does this look?
  3. Got my 3rd member back from the gear shop today. New Strange 3.25 gearset, trackloc clutch plates, bearing. Suggest non-synthetic and change at 500 miles. Also suggested RTV (no gasket). He also said that with the RTV there was no need for the copper washers (only needed when using a gasket). He also suggested to drill and tap a drain plug. So, now I need to confirm my yoke size and order new u joints. Also need axle bearing and seals (should have done that earlier). Or could/should I hold off until the 500 mi change?
  4. Changing my u joints before I get my 3rd member back this week. Measurements are matching up. The rear joint caps are different, 2 are inside and 2 are outside, 1-1/16 and 1-1/8. The bolts feel like their big enough the handle the 1-1/8 size. My question is, do I need bolts sized for the smaller caps? Or is 1/16 going to make any difference? Also, does it even matter whether the two smaller caps have the inside clip groove or not?
  5. Maybe if you have a welder (which I don't). I'll have to go the wood way. Maybe I can rigged some tie-downs to keep it balanced. If and when I figure it out, I'll post some pics. Won't be till sometime next week though.
  6. In regards to lifting back into place, I'll be solo. Has anyone every tried using a "cradle" to lift? I was thinking to build something out of wood to support the front and back, set that on a jack to get it up into position.
  7. I dropped off my 3rd member today for its rebuild, so now it's time to prep for its return. Are there any step by step tutorials? I mean I know the process, but I would like details like gasket or sealant, what parts can or should not be reused, stuff like that.
  8. https://www.amazon.com/Scraper-Painters-Scrapers-Painting-Spackle/dp/B086JDRQ8T/ref=bmx_dp_5c6c7inn_1/131-5422584-6412058?pd_rd_w=WoMIS&pf_rd_p=f43599e0-aaab-4357-b62a-afc3efe44d3b&pf_rd_r=PK7S91RT56HF549AR4DW&pd_rd_r=dd72444e-d9ce-445c-bdc2-889517ee3c49&pd_rd_wg=cwfLa&pd_rd_i=B086JDRQ8T&psc=1
  9. Thanks for all of the advice. This shop has some good reviews, perhaps I didn't get all the information accurate. I'm probably going over there today or tomorrow, I'll insist on a new set of USA made gears & parts. That tool would be perfect, just needs to be slightly modified to incorporate a bottle opener.
  10. And since it's camo no one will even know it's there.
  11. When I spoke to the guy at the gear shop, I mentioned that I was thinking of changing from 3.50 to 3.25 . He said that a quality gear set in that ratio was difficult to get, and he was suggesting a good quality used set. Not sure if that's true or not. He is giving me a 1 year warranty. Another pic.
  12. I've got the Performance and an Edelbrock carb on mine. It fits, but it might be compressing the gasket a bit more than it should. On my list to investigate.
  13. Extraction complete. I'm planning on taking it to a local gear shop for rebuild. What have I got here?
  14. Welcome to the forum. My first Mustang was a red Grande (77-82), love the color. Yours looks great! I'm also recently joined the forum. There's a mountain of good info here, and every one is always willing to help out with good advice. Congrats
  15. I think I should be ok. I took the heavy pressure from the jack away as soon as it started dripping.
  16. Well, I don't know how "gently" it was, but I used a jack to slightly lift up the pinion then applied numerous beatings. Finally broke loose. Letting it drain real good now, will wait till tomorrow to figure out a one man pull out.
  17. Removed (mostly). Still not coming loose. Rear end is still in the car, BTW. What about using a jack to gently break it loose?
  18. First time for me removing a diff, can't get it separated from the housing. Looks like there's black rtv in there. Any tricks for breaking it loose?
  19. It looks pretty darn close to one on Mecum. https://www.mecum.com/lots/LN1021-467165/1972-ford-mustang-convertible/
  20. Good pic, thanks. Reminds me I also need to find a reverse lock-out rod.
  21. Yeah, I had partially crawled (slithered) underneath previously, the switch is there and appears to be depressing correctly. What I could not see, is the wiring and the connection.
  22. My backup lights are not working, and considering the multitude of un-connected wires and hoses I've found so far, I'm highly suspicious of the backup light also being disconnected. Where is the connection to the wiring harness? Can I get to it from inside the car, under the shifter boot?
  23. Hey 6t8cougarguy, welcome to the forum. Do you also have a repair process for replacing with over-sized pins?
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