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Everything posted by MooseStang

  1. Special tools that I don't have. So I'm looking at a local rebuild , or ordering a 3rd online. Thanks everyone for your input, I'll start the hunt for local rebuild prices and go from there.
  2. And did I also read that the pinion is a separate section? Would rebuilding it, bearings, seals (and not regear) be another less expensive option?
  3. Where should I look for a ready built 3rd? And the only thing that I'll need to identify on mine is the spline count, correct?
  4. Marti is great, but... it's a starting point. When I got my vert, I got practically zero history on the car. And as I dig into stuff, I occasionally find things that don't match. Expect the occasional unexpected, and ask lots of questions. I know I do.
  5. Thanks for the offer. I "think" mine may be working better now. I'll have to fill it and then run it empty after I get my diff issue resolved.
  6. Ok, so now comes more questions. I "think" I'd like to change from the current 3.50 back to the original (so says Marti) 3.25. Should I pull the 3rd and have it rebuilt? Or buy one already done? Or is there another option? I do not have a press and have never rebuilt an diff.
  7. Found a better pic. How much compression is that spring supposed to have on it? The more compressed, the less slack at the pedal, right?
  8. I still debating on whether to try to pull this myself. I don't have a lift, only floor jack, stands and a set of rhinoramps. Also would be doing this by myself. I've also had someone else tell me they think it looks like the joint not the pinion. If I did decide to pull the shaft and I needed to then reinstall, how difficult will it be to get it to line back up to the trans? I'm a little concerned about getting things lined back up. I also found some underneath pics from when I purchased, does anything look out of the ordinary?
  9. Welcome from the Woodlands TX! I've only been here for a short while, but the willingness and depth of knowledge of the people here are outstanding. Good luck on your build, and as they say, we like lots of pictures.
  10. Here's another thread that might help. https://7173mustangs.com/forums/topic/35175-71-73-mustang-console-clock-restoration-question/?tab=comments#comment-360470
  11. Great, into the uncharted I go. I'll welcome all advice. The marti says it should be 3.25, but its 3.50. I don't know the spline count.
  12. OEM Clock Ford Clock instructions https://www.rccinnovations.com/Instructions/Clock.pdf
  13. I believe everything is still in place. When I pull the cable underneath, the slack is taken up by the pedal.
  14. Is the tension adjustment all in the spring that's connected to the cables going back to the wheels? Or does some of it come from the springs in the brakes? What should I use to lube the cable?
  15. Does this look like pinion bearing play? https://youtu.be/mTRAC56ZyuU
  16. Here's what I did. Pulled the clockwork from the housing. Applied 12 volts. Immediately and very gently, rolled the gear shown in the pic using my finger. It would run for a brief period, maybe one or two contact cycles, then stop. If you're able to get it to work for brief periods, I would start the cleaning process, lightly oil, very fine sandpaper on the points. Be careful not to over oil, and if you use quips to clean don't get fibers in the gears. I had to restart mine many times over a period of several days before it would run. I was constantly listening for the points "click". Good luck.
  17. Be careful about leaving power to to it if it's not running. If the points are closed I believe you'll overheat and burn the coils.
  18. Okay, time for some updates. Bought another 72 vert (Johnny Lightning) Installed rebuilt alternator Clock now working (still adjusting) Discovered tilt steering pins are the source of my play Discovered I've got an electric trunk release, need to order the wiring harness "Fixed" my broken turn signal cancel (with a zip tie, we'll see how long it lasts) Adjusted my rear spoiler so it is planar with the trunk lid Found the empty socket where I believe the PARK light is supposed to be. Found a new definition for the dash mount 10" speaker
  19. I started out for a drive yesterday and not far from home, the vibrations started again, feeling worse than before. I think I may have even heard a noise from the rear, was in some traffic so I'm not certain. so today I decided to do another inspection of the rear end. I "believe" there's an issue with the pinion bearing, but I'd like the opinion of the experts before proceeding any further. Try to find how to upload the video. Stay tuned.
  20. Without me doing anything, the crazy thing started working again, well, at least it's reading about where I think it should be. I'll have to do a complete fill up to check.
  21. Still running, and has been doing so rather quickly (fast timekeeping). Someone had posted instructions for adjustment, which I've been doing. I've lost count of how many backwards time sweeps I've done thus far, but it is getting closer to being accurate.
  22. I have other plans for that date, plus I still have some vibration issues to be sorted out before taking a road trip.
  23. Sheriff41, where bouts are you located? I'm just north of Houston.
  24. The rear stripes on Moose have been annoying me from day one. It's mostly the placement, but I kinda like the look of no rear stripes. What's the consensus of the peanut gallery? (does anyone even use that phrase anymore?) I do plan on adding a flip cap.
  25. I found this info on another forum https://www.vintage-mustang.com/threads/inaccurate-fuel-gauge.850386/page-2 If you are able to make a simple potentiometer, as suggested earlier, you can independently test you sending unit, and your gauge. You will find out if the sender is supplying the correct resistance at the various levels. With the arm in the upper position it should read 10 ohms. Full. At Empty, 78 ohms. Then apply your potentiometer device to the gauge. Use 5 volt input to one post, and put the potentiometer between the other post and Ground, and dial up the ohms and then see how the gauge reads at the levels of resistance you input.... 78 is empty, 10 is full. So now I just need to go find me some ohms.
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