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ptrmzr

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  • My Car
    1971 Mach 1 351C 4V 4sp 3.50L

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    NJ
  • Region
    Northeast

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  1. Awesome - got it! Thank you! BTW would you want to sell one of those???
  2. Hi, Can someone post an image of the stud that connects the lock-out rod to the reverse crank on the trans? I think it's a stud that would snap into one of those hard blue or brown plastic bushings. I picked up the lock-out rod but I'm missing the stud and nut. Thanks, Peter
  3. I'm not ready to lower the car onto its wheels - I am waiting on pricing and delivery on the springs before I go forward, but the rear was sagging. How would you measure lost arch?
  4. OK wheels and tires both have the same dimensions: both 6" from the back mounting surface to the highest point of the outer sidewall bulge, but I found other stuff...Using a plumb bob, the distance from the wheel mounting surface of the brake drum to the driver's side wheel well lip is 5-5/8 the other side 5-3/4. After a closer look at the passenger side tire it was lightly hitting there too. I also measured the distance from the top of the axle to the snubber and compared to see if when the spring were fully compressed where along the side wall it would hit the lip and it will eventually hit the side wall on both sides. So it looks like a wheel-offset/tire combo that pushes the tire sidewall out more than 5-1/2" from the brake drum is destine to rub unless you have some mechanical means of limiting the spring travel. My air shocks must have been doing that to some degree. Now even if I go to 235/60s reduces the tread width by 0.39" - not sure how that translates into high point in the sidewall. I am getting that sinking feeling that I may need to find a different set of rear wheels or swap out the axle housing for a friend's '70 housing and axles (slightly narrower!) in addition to new springs.
  5. Both sides replaced a both pressed to correct locations. Confirmed with hub to bake plate measurement.
  6. This one's got me stumped. After doing some rear end work and then on the drive back from Carlisle with a passenger the driver's side rear wheel starting rubbing when hitting a dip in the road. Car specs: 71FB with tired stock leaf springs, 15x8.5 ARE 200s "Coke-Bottles" w/ 4" offset, new Cooper Cobra 245/60's (in place of an old set of 245/60 Goodyear Eagles) To replace the center section I slid the axle back on the leafs to clear the stock style mufflers and while putting it all back together I replaced the plastic anti-friction discs and leaf clamps (the old ones were worn paper thin or missing), replaced the rear wheel bearings, swapped out the leaky air shocks for KYB gas. When arriving home from the drive I found the driver side tire to be a 1/4" further outboard than the pass. side. I put the car back up on the lift and loosened the u-bolts to check if there was clearance between the locating bolt and the hole in the bottom of the perch, but both perches seem to be sitting snuggly on the bolts. I measured the distances from the hub to the brake backplate and from the backplate to the leaf spring on both sides - identical. The shackle bushings are in good shape. Can it be the leaf springs are "twisted" and biasing to one side? I don't want to go back to air shocks and considering replacing the springs and if that doesn't solve the rubbing problem I'll replace the tires with 235/60s. I think the Coopers may have more sidewall bulge than the Goodyears. Your thoughts? Thanks, Peter
  7. Thanks for your reply Red351! Would you advise applying a film of red high temp RTV for good measure?
  8. HI, I've been freshening my car for the upcoming Carlisle... I removed the intake (351C4V) to clean it up and I believe it was the first time it was ever removed - (the same with the valve covers). I picked up an NOS Ford gasket/galley pan and it has the light colored gasket material attached to the underside of the metal pan that would contact the port side of the heads. The mystery: the gasket I took off was metal only - with the grooving around the ports and the water passageways. Was this the way it was done in the factory? On the replacement gasket, why is there only a gasket between the pan and the head? Do I need the gasket material? Thanks in advance! Peter
  9. I am considering lowering the front end of my 71 351. As it is done with the earlier models, do the upper control arms need to be lowered as well by drilling new mounting holes? I only plan to lower 1". Thanks, Peter I found my answer at http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-lowering-upper-control-arms-shelby-mod?page=1
  10. Hi, I found this thread in a search...Is anyone reproducing these rings for either 14" or 15" and for either 7" or 8" wheel width? ...or is there an aftermarket that is close? Thanks, Peter
  11. These are nowhere as nice as what you found, but if someone is looking for a cheaper solution: Hub cap stickers
  12. Thanks for the link! Yea sometimes you wonder how we made it this far considering all the crazy sh!t we did! :cool:
  13. Hi, Is anyone reproducing the early BFG T/A's? Here is a picture from 1976. I had just bought these tires and I was making some suspension repairs before a cross country trip: This car handled like a dream with these. I really liked the "squared-off" look and the tread pattern. Coker is selling new T/A's and I have sent them a question about the old style... Peter
  14. Thanks everyone for the great suggestions and things to try! Bellini, it only occurs in first, but what I forgot to mention is that it also shudders when I down shift...when I let the clutch out slowly when shifting from 3rd to 2nd say. I would be very interested in hearing what you find out with yours.
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