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BUCKWHEAT

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Everything posted by BUCKWHEAT

  1. To be clear, am I right that you put the painters tape on top of the carpet. then did the sharpie marks? Good way to get through carpet and sound deadener. Thanks.
  2. OK! So I steal the Wife's ruby-red nail polish and go to work on the carpet. Sounds good, and thanks.
  3. No holes currently exist. I need to locate the console properly to the dash and to the floor auto shifter. I am also putting in a new carpet. I have the correct screws. How do I locate the spots on the trans tunnel to drill the starter holes so that it will work after the carpet is down? Anyone done this? Car is a 1973 convertible. Thanks.
  4. I just did this on my car. I used the no-heat option. First take a screwdriver or knife and pop off the yellow plastic that was melted to retain the lens. When you have each down to a nub, lift out the old lens and drop in the new. For me, polishing the lenses was a non-starter. Then put a drop of super-glue (clear) on each stud where the lens is touching. Hold the lenses on for a few minutes to let the super glue set, then leave it alone for a day to cure. Done. The new lenses will outlive me!
  5. Magic words: Scott Drake. Personally I have had bad experiences and no replies to complaints. Scott Drake = caveat emptor
  6. Our '73 is named "Wanda". Bought her in Orlando & had to drive her back to St Louis, basically sight unseen. Drove her off the lot to find the steering so bad that she "wanda'd" thru the smallest turn. On the highway she required 1300 miles of hands-on focus to keep her in the lane, leaving us to "Wanda" why we ever bought her. She really is a good, solid, un-rusted car so we really do think she is "wanda"ful. New rag-joint and alignment & she is good as new.
  7. The new box will cost about $300, plus little stuff. I am doing mine now because my heater core is toast. My box and vacuum lines look good, so I am keeping them. Likely the current box was redone by prior owner in 2000. Easy is not a word to use with this project. I will remove the entire dash to be sure I do not destroy the box at removal time. Look at the tutorial on West Coast Classic Cougar site. Since this is major surgery for my skill level, I will also replace all the wiring behind the dash, as well as get rid of prior owner's Pioneer radio disaster, and replace it with an OEM stereo. Good luck to me and you.
  8. I have a new-to-me 1973 convert. The squirrel cage makes lots of noise and no air to speak of comes out anywhere. I took off the dash pad. The ducting hard plastic tubes slide into each other so loosely that (I think) the air flow is lost under the dash. I am replacing the heater core and intend to use that thin silvery HVAC tape (not "duct tape") to cover all the plastic tube connection joints when I put it back together. I am making the brash assumption that I will have all the vacuum doors, etc, working after re-do.
  9. i was too lazy to get up and drive to pundmann, oh well
  10. 3F03F Gold Glow, Ginger, White/glass top, Concor resto 2000 at SEMO Classic Mustang, 3.00 conventional, C4, PDB,PS, A/C, factory tint & racing mirrors. Built 4/2/03. Variations from stock today are: dumb Panasonic radio, Front air dam (looks good), duals w/ matching lower valance, and 15" magnum 500 rims (look really good).
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