Everything posted by 71ProjectJunk
This guy has 4 NOS panels for the grill on eBay and one of them is the D1ZZ-8182-A (maybe B, look at photo). You may want to contact him to see if he will sell just that one piece out of the 4 NOS pieces he has: https://www.ebay.com/itm/114914234825?hash=item1ac16c11c9:g:UbUAAOSwe~1hKW75
I have seen some people go totally nuts trying to figure out all types of issues with their engines that have the Holley Sniper/FiTech fuel injection system. I was following a guy on YouTube that was going completely nuts with a drivability issue with his Holley Sniper. After months of frustration he finally figured that that the issue is RFI/EMI noise. I know that it sounds nuts, but these old cars were never designed to run EFI, and thus have little to no RFI/EMI suppression on their electrical systems. The RFI/EMI could be so bad that the EFI system just does not run, or it could be mild and you get power/drivability issues. Worth taking a look at it. Search YouTube for "Holley Sniper RFI problems or FiTech RFI problems. You will find a ton of issues. This is a generic video of the issue, buy it will give you an overview of what can happen: Everything that I can see on your engine specs looks right. Cam was degreed in, springs were installed at the correct height, you have checked your compression and know exactly what it is etc... I would not even think of pulling those heads to do a little valve unshrouding or porting, the difference will be negligible. This seems like a tuning issue, either ignition or fuel. I doubt that you have any valve float issues, valve float is very noticeable, and when you hit valve float the engine just hits a wall. Also once you start floating valves, the floating will start earlier and earlier as the springs get fatigued by the valve float. There are 2 dips in that Dyno chart after 5000 RPM, which should not be there. Do you have a way to check your fuel pressure to make sure that it is not somehow falling off at higher RPM? Maybe the timing is doing something strange after 5000. If I were to take a guess , I would bet on fuel delivery, but I could be very wrong.
The sheet metal that you are wanting to remove will end up looking like the top of a can of sardines when you crack it open, it will roll up into a ball as you push the air hammer through it if it is thin and not held up by something, but usually what you are removing will not be reused. The part of the sheet metal that you are not removing should be for the most part unaffected by the air hammer. Do not use an air hammer if you are looking to reuse the sheet metal that you are removing, but if you are changing the cowl panel, an air hammer will take it out so fast it will make your head spin, it just blows through the spot welds in seconds, then lifts the sheet metal till you get to the next spot weld, and then it is blown out in seconds and you go onto the next. This is not a precision tool, but when you are just removing sheet metal that will go into the trash, it goes super fast.
I am doing a 71 that is probably in about the same condition cosmetically as your car, maybe a little worse is some areas. Mechanically it runs and drives, but in reality needs almost everything. I started doing some body work on the roof and a quarter panel, and then found out that I had a rusted out front floor drivers side floor pan. I just put a new pan in. I have to do bodywork and mechanical stuff, and it is really driving me nuts on what to do first. I have a couple of leaks on the cowl that I need to fix, and I want to finish all the floors, as soon as I am done with that I will go and do all the mechanical stuff to get the car running right. When I finish all the mechanical I will go back and do all the bodywork. If I could give you one piece of advice, it would be to not blow the car up into a million pieces to start a restoration. We all see all the cars that owners blow up to start a restoration, and then they never finish it and the cars sit sometimes for decades deteriorating, until the owner decides to sell. My cars interior is all out, but I still have the drivers seat in it. I can start it right now and move it or even use it if I want to. I do a little bit at a time always making sure that I can easily get it back to running condition. This weekend I will change the fuel tank, and hopefully, start on the front suspension. On the suspension I will do one side first, and when that side is done, I will do the other side. I always keep the car where I can in a day or two of work get it back on the road. Small projects keep me motivated, as I can see the end of them. If I blow up the car into a million pieces, I can't see the end and it frustrates me and I loose interest, which is what happens to most people. The only point where the car will be out of commission, where I can probably not get it back on the road fast, is when I pull the engine to reseal it, do the heads, and put a small cam in it. I know this will take it out of commission for maybe a few weeks or a month, as heads will need to go to a machine shop, but as soon as heads are back, engine will go in and it will be back on the road.
You can definitely pull the driveshaft out by yourself with just some stands. You can't really mess this up, it is about as straightforward of a job as there is. There is no alignment to the shaft on the tranny end, it can slip into the transmission any which way, the only thing that needs to be aligned is the rear u-joint, and that is a no brainer as if it is not aligned you cannot bolt it in. To remove the shaft you just take out the 4 screws on the 9 inch yoke, remove the u bolts, and then push forward on the driveshaft so that it will fall free from the rear yoke. You then just pull it out from the tranny end and it is on the floor. You then change your u-joints, which is the hardest thing here. After changing the u-joints, you just get under the car and push the driveshaft into the transmission, it just slips in, and then push it back onto the rear yoke, put your u bolts back in and tighten it. It is really a straightforward job. If you put the tranny in neutral, you can slip the driveshaft into in, and then move it around to align it with the rear yoke. There is no way to mess this up...
Yes, it sounded like you were not getting enough of a pump shot from your accelerator pump. I am a Holley guy, so I am uncertain how the accelerator pump circuit works on the Carter carbs, but all carbs are more or less the same. Make sure that as soon as you touch the accelerator, the carb is pumping fuel in through discharge nozzle. On a Holley the accelerator pump arm can be adjusted loosely, and it will cause a delay form the time you press the accelerator to the time you get a pump shot, and it will cause the exact condition you have. I don't believe that the AVS has any adjustment like the Holley does. Can you get a bigger discharge nozzle for the AVS? I would try two things before I do anything else. First richen the idle screws and try it out, since you have a lean bog this may fix your issue. If that does not work, try to connect your distributor vacuum advance to direct instead of ported vacuum, this will increase you timing at idle and may also fix the issue, this is just a test, do not use the car with direct vacuum to the distributor. If the timing fixes the issue then you will need to increase your base timing, you balancer could be off and you think you have 16 degrees when in reality you have something else, like maybe 6. BTW unless you know exactly the centrifugal advance that your distributor is giving you, you should always time your engine for total advance with a timing light that has an advance dial.
An air hammer with a chisel for spot welds does quick work of them. I just had to remove a front floor pan on my 1971, and If I had just used a spot weld cutter it would have taken me forever. The air hammer with the chisel cut through the weld spots in seconds.