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69 Rustang

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Posts posted by 69 Rustang

  1. I was starting to assemble the rear of the interior tonight…finally!  I ran into a problem though.  Which way do the rear seat belts install?  Does the button mechanism go to the outside or mount in the center of the car?  It seems like it would be better if they were mounted with the button part on the outside in case it gets stuck between the panel and the seat cushion, it would be easier to get back out or less likely to even happen.  But, tell me, how do they mount?  Thanks!

  2. My #1 learning about this Mustang occurred yesterday.  When the gas gauge needle aligns with the line for “E”, it seriously means it is empty.  Fortunately my wife was just a half mile away and could go home (1 mile the other way) and bring me the gas can.  Doh!  Lesson learned, next stop, the gas station!

    On the plus side, the rear end has been rebuilt—the center diff issues were covered in another thread, but it was a mess.  Now the rear brakes are all new, new soft brake hose to the axle, fixed the axle vent hose, new axle seals, and one of the rear axle bearings was replaced.  It is quieter than ever, especially when the engine dies from lack of fuel and you are coasting….

    While waiting for the differential rebuild, I had time to start on the interior.  The console has been disassembled, thoroughly cleaned and reassembled, the fold down seat mechanism has been cleaned and mostly reassembled (but out of the car).  The dash has been cleaned up again.  The trim has been transferred to the new door panels—when you buy the new ones and pay extra for the “improved” version, please realize they are still not a great part.  At this point I am waiting on just a few things.  The biggest delay is the headliner.  I have a friend who has an upholstery shop and he is going to help fix my headliner—but between his schedule and mine we just can’t get together until October.  There are still a few things I can work on though.





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  3. A few pictures of the damaged carrier, and a few pictures of the restored differential.  The first picture shows where a thrust washer used to be, it had worn away some time ago left behind is scoring and a huge ridge of worn material.  The second image is the gear that was wearing on the surface in the first picture.  The third picture is the other half of the carrier, notice the wear on the outer ring outside of where the spider gears are—it was grinding along here.  So the noise I heard was because of the play in the spider gear/carrier assembly due to the missing thrust washer.  All in all, I got lucky that my ring gear and pinion gear were not damaged.  

    The other noteworthy comment is on the second picture.  The spider gear here has four sections where there are no splines, so the 28 spline axle is only connected to 24 splines in the carrier.  Notice the gap in splines visible at about the 12 o’clock and 3 o’clock positions. The guy doing the work for me said this is very common and almost always present in a 8” rear end, and it is uncommon but sometimes present in a 9”.  He installed gears with the full 28 splines when he put the new one together for me.

    The last two pictures are the work of art I am going to install.  Included with the overhaul was a gasket, copper washers, new nuts, and gear oil.  Out the door for $420 including him swapping the differential case for one with a fill plug (which mine did not have due to someone changing it somewhere along the way).






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  4. I learned this is not the original center section to this car—this one doesn’t have a fill plug so it was changed somewhere along the way during life for one of the same ratio.  If it was under filled, it happened before I got the car as it always had a clicking noise, but I never bothered with it as I haven’t put that many miles on this car to worry about it.  I did pull it years ago trying to figure it out and put it back—that was when I realized there was no fill plug and I had to fill through the axle tube.  I think I actually overfilled it as it leaked out and ruined the brakes on one side despite new seals.  The guy doing the rear now is swapping out cases for one with a plug for an extra $50.  

    The worse news is I have a second 9” center section with 3.50’s that makes the same clicking noise only it sounds even worse than the one I pulled from the car.  So apparently I have two junk center sections!  At least this one will be right when it is done.

  5. We have a 94 Mustang GT in the fleet as well as our other Mustangs.  I haven’t driven it a lot, maybe 200-300 miles since we bought it.  Due to some current circumstances I am driving it frequently at the moment.  Today I noticed the tach was jumpy.  On the freeway, it was bouncing up 500 rpm over where it should be.  The engine wasn’t revving or anything, just the tach needle.  The fuel gauge was also dropping about an 1/8 tank, then it would come up.  The other gauges were all fine the whole time.  5.0, 5 speed, 146k miles.  Has new plugs, wires, cap about 150 miles ago.  Any thoughts?

  6. UPDATE:  my son helped me pull the axles tonight.  The bearings felt great and as I suspected, the left one looks brand new (the pressed on retaining ring is a slightly different color than the other side.  So we dropped the center section out next, then shoved an axle into the center section and turned it: click click click click…. Then we got the spare 9” center section out and tried that one…guess what…click click click click!  I had my son turn the axle while I used a flashlight to look at the spider gears and I couldn’t really see anything wrong.  No metal in the housing, it all looks good.  I think I am going to take the center section to a driveline shop and have someone look at it, I don’t recall any 9” doing this and I have 2 of them that do.  The clicking is only on the drivers side.

  7. The rear axle in my ‘72 makes a clicking noise.  I tried to fix it years ago and pulled the center section—didn’t see anything wrong, changed the axle bearing (I am certain it was the left one, but it was a long time ago).  As you can see in the video, when I turn the left axle it is really loud.  The right side, not so much.  At this point I plan on pulling the diff out again and taking it somewhere.  It needs a new pinion seal anyway.  The original is a 2.75 or so open 9” carrier.  I do have another 9” center section, but the ratio is different at 3.25 and I would rather keep it stock.

    Any experienced thoughts on what you hear?

  8. The ‘73 AMX was my first car I noticed and commented on to my family as something I loved.  I was about 5 years old at the time.  That shifted to Mustangs over the next few years, but I always remembered the swooping fenders of the Javelin and late AMX’s.  Excellent choice…you certainly like cars that are not the every-man’s car like a Camaro or 64-68 Mustang.

    By the way—auto crossing is a blast, but it is a bit tough on front tires as you tend to chunk them out at the edges.  Better tire tech, the correct pressure, and better alignment angles specifically for the task will improve your results.  I did it with my ‘69 back when it was my everyday/only running car.  I tore the heck out of my tires and wanted to go more.  

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  9. David, there were two pieces of lower stripe in the box, both the same length.  This picture shows how far one stripe went.  As you can see, it wasn’t even long enough to do the area from the front wheel well to the rear.  I used both stripes in the box to get one side done, and then used a bit for just the rear of the quarter on the other side.  I figured if there is some dimensional variation in the next set I get it won’t show from the front of the quarter panel to the rear.  Fingers crossed anyway.  

    For the textured black, I’m not sure who makes it.  I like the smooth look anyway so I wouldn’t have used it.  I’m not worried about a concours event.  I did start with your dimensions when laying out the hood, but rather than different measures on one side versus the other and the original, I couldn’t help myself but make the measurements side to side symmetrical.  That said—what a great document you prepared, I would have been guessing without it.  Thank you!

    One knowledge gap is how the lower stripe “finishes” at the back of the rear quarter panel.  Does it wrap around a little…get cut off straight?  I made my own decision and went with it.  But if you have details that could be your next article/white paper.


  10. 16 hours ago, bdennis said:

    Dumb question. Have you checked to make sure the pipes from the bottle to the jets on the bonnet are not blocked? 

    On my 7/72 Mach 1 the pipe from the washer bottle to the under side of the bonnet is wrapped in the wiring loom and exits the loom just under the brake master cylinder and then goes to the bonnet. I found my pipe is damaged or blocked and the pipe on the bottom of the bottle would pop off. Also the jets under the bonnet were blocked adding to the issue.

    I ended up just running a new pipe next to the wiring loom and cleaned the jets and replaced the other pipe. Works like a treat now.

    Im using the original bottle and pump.

    Uhhh, no.  But everything is going to be new except the nozzles, so as long as they are clear I don’t expect problems other than a leaky washer bottle/pump.

  11. Wasn’t sure what forum this fits in, but here’s my question.  I ordered a windshield washer bottle as my original was broken.  I went to install the pump and something in my brain said—check for a leak.  Guess what—it leaked through the pump area...of course it does....   the washer bottle is a reproduction as the OEM Ford ones are no longer available.  But the pump and its seal are 50 years old as they are the original.  Is the leak from the pump/seal or the repro bottle?  I looked in the hole where the pump is installed and there was a small burr where the fluid exits to go into the hose.  I popped the burr off and tried it again, but it still leaks.  Without throwing out my initial ideas to fix, what would you do?

  12. Stupid car—it seems like it is fighting me every step of the way on reassembly.  Everything I touch takes 4 times longer than it should.  Install bolt—20 minutes....  Install molding, WEEKS...  Grrrrr.

    I do have a question.  I ordered a windshield washer bottle as mine was broken.  I went to install the pump and something in my brain said—check for a leak.  Guess what—it leaked through the pump area...of course it does....   the washer bottle is a reproduction as the OE ones are no longer available.  But the pump and its seal are 50 years old.  Is it the pump or the bottle?  I looked in the hole and there was a burr where the fluid exits to go into the hose.  I popped the burr off and it still leaks.  Without throwing out my initial ideas to fix, what would you do?

  13. Wow—definitely family first.  Best of luck and prayers for your wife and baby.  The car will wait.  I know this from experience, come see all my unfinished projects and then look at my kids’ race cars that are completed/ongoing race prep....and their massive pile of trophies.  We’ve made a jillion memories Soap Box Derby racing all over the United States, and I wouldn’t trade any of those memories for the time I gave up on my own stuff. 


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