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69 Rustang

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Everything posted by 69 Rustang

  1. I did get the troublesome taillight out. After several soaks of penetrant spray, I put a ratcheting wrench on the nut, then held the threaded area with vice grips as suggested and got them loose. Of course the threads were screwed so there was no way the nut was coming off, but by luck the slack provided allowed the clip to release from the tail light panel. Just thought a follow up would be appreciated.
  2. Well, I did do some work on the rocker panels, but jumped right into the tail light panel today. The butchers who worked on this car previously only tack brazed and pop riveted (5 rivets total) the tail light panel in. So, I cleaned, straightened, drilled and mig welded the tail light panel in today. Now it is done proper. Photo of in process work.
  3. Doors and bottom of trunk lid are cleaned up and primed. What a mess—the car had been repainted including the jambs, and of course, was peeling in the jambs. I spent all day yesterday sanding the bottom of the trunk lid. Over the last week I worked on prepping the doors. Next up, A-pillars, B-pillars, and rockers. Might as well get the top side of the trunk lid done too. The roof has been blocked and needs a little clean up around the window moldings, then it can be primed. Saving the worst for last, the quarters and tail light panel. I haven’t forgotten the hood, but it is in really excellent shape as I resprayed it a few years ago, just needs some quick cleanup and prime.
  4. Question revision: is the knob something that unscrews or does it need to be drilled out, threaded, and then replaced? Mine broke, it doesn’t seem to unscrew as I can see. I considered drilling and JB Welding. But, ???? Is there some missing information here on the replacement item? Is it not just a bolt in or does it require drill and tap?
  5. I am working on the doors and mirrors this week for my ‘72. The Passengers Side is easy, everything comes right apart and gets sanded. The Drivers Side...another story. The mirror is off, but I want to paint all the bits nicely—is there any to take the cable apart and actually put it back together again? I did it on my ‘69, it was a bitcXXX. But it was possible. The design of the cables is different on the 71-72, and after a cursory inspection I thought I should ask the experienced crew. Any body ever do this successfully that can coach me?
  6. What type of filler did you use to repair your urethane front bumper? I had some good stuff for the last car, but It got tossed after it was a few years old. I can’t remember what I bought but it sanded well. Any one with recent experience fixing a urethane bumper up?
  7. My wife lived with a rear window for a ‘69 Mach stored behind our headboard for about 8 years, so this isn’t her first go round. A pure sign of a “keeper”! But still no comments about fenders from her so far! I wonder if the hood would get noticed?
  8. Today was great, I finally got my paint guns out. I primered my fenders that have been under the microscope for a few weeks as well as the fender and quarter extensions. I am really happy with how the fenders turned out. There is one ding in the middle of the left fender I need to deal with, but otherwise basic block sanding and then a finish coat to prep. My son helped me take the right door off and I went to work. Hoping to finish it and pull off the right door. Late in the day I snuck the fenders into the house up into the spare bedroom. Not sure if my wife noticed what I was doing or not. My son ran a little interference, but obviously he wasn’t wanting to get into trouble with her. So far she hasn’t commented on fenders inside the house. Primer ahead!
  9. I am not sure if there are different manufacturers of the repro Mach scooped hood. I bought one for a ‘73 about 12 years ago from National Parts Depot. It was really nice, but we did have to bend one side to line it up with the fender. We blocked the front edge on one side and the back edge on the same side then padded the top surface and a buddy stood on top. After that, it fit better than a friend of mine’s original hood. I think it did have one small ding that I had to fix towards the front edge if memory serves correct.
  10. So I was sanding the fender edges and cleaning up the backside today in prep for priming the fenders tomorrow. I noticed the blackout even goes on the back side of the fender about 1/2” up from the very bottom—cleariy it was sprayed while off the car. Snapped this picture—between the bolt holes on the single layer of sheet metal, you can see the black I am referring to. Very sloppy application on the reinforced section, but I am not sure how original that paint is. Both fenders exactly the same.
  11. If it wasn’t a dealer, I would expect the description to say “SWMBO says it has to go, so priced accordingly ”
  12. Kilgon is really high up, and Tony-Muscle is by a bunch of water. Sorry, that’s the best I’ve got.
  13. That is a really sad looking Mustang. But thank you for the pictures. What have I learned? Almost anything goes!
  14. Sorry Midlife, I will refer to you from now on as “notsobright”...
  15. I had started with a needle nose vice grips doing that, but they were rusted tight. I sprayed them down with WD40 a few separate times. I will hit them a few more times, then try again. I was trying to just grab the unthreaded bit which is really hard to do. I may have to go your route and catch the threads and resort to cutting. Fun fun...
  16. Exactly what the title says, but there is a complication. Two of the nuts/studs have rusted together. When I tried to loosen the nuts, the backside started to spin—no joy. Worst part is that they are the bottom nuts. Any advice how to remove the nuts and studs for the taillights given the studs are spinning and you can’t grab them with a wrench or vice grips? I am worried about breaking the tail light housing as they are quite brittle. Thanks for any ideas or experience!
  17. Interesting post as I just dug into this on my ‘72. In the past I have always used an Autobody sealant or something called Dum Dum (I think that is the name), basically a very thick black play dough texture product that seals. The AMK kit has black plastic or rubber washers. I think I will stick with my DumDum, but I may buy the kit just for the nice shiny hardware. I have a question though—my car was “previously loved”, meaning some well meaning but probably not qualified individual worked on it. There were sometimes washers on the extension side of the stud and washers on the inside of the quarter; but nothing consistent. Should there be both on all?
  18. Thanks for these photos Carolina—it is interesting the difference of the cars posted. The 429 site has a few different styles than yours. Yours is a ‘73, so I am going to follow the ‘72 stuff from the 429 site. The most interesting things with yours are 1) the rockers and how the black wraps up into the sill/scuff plate; and 2) the tail light blackout application 1st. Mine doesn’t have taillight blackout, but I haven’t dug under the paint there as yet to see what’s underneath. For aircraft stripper—unfortunately the good stuff was outlawed a few years ago. Apparently a few people used in inside and the fumes killed them. I know that stuff is crazy strong smelling. I have yet to try the reformulated stuff, but I have been using a stripper that is working pretty good. The fenders are almost ready for primer and I block sanded the roof (no stripper) tonight down to the OE finish. The roof is absolutely fabulous. I think that is the last time I will say anything nice about this project though.
  19. After spending time studying the photos on the 429 site and then sanding/stripping work on my car—wow, the original paint job was crap. A combination of paint and striping tape on the lower section. Then more paint applied over the top during a lousy repaint speculating in the 80’s or 90’s. The thing that hacks me off the most is the people who repainted it didn’t even remove the hockey stick stripes—they just painted over them and then installed new ones! WTF... more work for me...grrr. I have uncovered a fews other sins completed by whoever painted it as well, looks like I am in for a bigger project than originally planned.
  20. Thank you C9ZX—I remember that site, but had forgotten about it! What a great resource. Looks like I did it wrong last time!
  21. I have some questions about the blackout treatment for repainting my ‘72—I can’t remember what I did last time when I did the ‘73. Here goes: 1) I know the blackout treatment wraps into the door jamb along the quarter panel and the rocker by about 3/4”. Is there a precise measurement there? 2) For the doors —what does the blackout wrap look like inside the doors? 3) The rear body panel of my ‘72 is currently white with the black plastic honeycomb trim piece, I think the rear body panel goes white again, but is there a chance it should be black? 4) Not related, but inside the trunk—last time I spent a bunch of time and did a really nice base-clear paint job in the trunk in body color. I am positive that is not correct, but it looked nice. Is grey speckle the correct finish? If so, does anyone have a good picture of OE so I know what to duplicate? I have a schedule laid out, recruited my teenage son, we are about to get dirty! We should be ready for the booths at work by the end of December unless I decide to go mountain biking instead - LOL.
  22. Follow-up—ordered one yesterday from Marti. Thanks for the replies.
  23. A person skilled at back-tape application can make a paint line nearly invisible. On the ‘73 I used to have I painted the insides of the doors off the car and the jambs at the same time, then put the doors back on. I had also painted inside the trunk, but didn’t worry about the top side of the trunk jamb. When I was ready to apply the exterior topcoat, I had the fenders bolted in place with about 3 bolts just to line up my lower black body line. Once the black was applied and masked, I pulled the fenders off and painted the red. One of my co-workers was a genius of back-taping and took care of the door jambs. The trunk lid was off the car but the bottom side masked to protect it as it was already painted. The trunk jamb was painted with the body and the fender edges were painted with the body. It turned out way better than I expected and I am quite picky. My ‘69 was painted as a bare shell. The only part bolted on was the hood as I needed a place to put it while I sprayed it and I also needed to mask the hood to cowl panel blackout. Painting as a bare shell is my preferred method if you have the windows out and everything else off the car. If you plan to put the interior in, including the headliner, the rear window pinch weld/jamb needs to be painted. The headliner technically is supposed to wrap around the pinch weld and the gasket applied over it. And we wonder why the rear windows leaked—right? Painting the windshield pinch weld is a matter of debate. On modern cars, it is a no-no as the adhesive must have a strong bond and proper tensile strength to support the deployment of airbags without blowing out the windshield. With our older cars, I am comfortable with painting the windshield jamb and using adhesive directly on the paint, but sticking the windshield to primer would probably be a better idea.
  24. Give me some time to think about this—its a bit more than I anticipated for belts that are needing so much work.
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