Jump to content

69 Rustang

VIP Members
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by 69 Rustang

  1. Has anyone considered a backup camera where the screen replaces the clock? I know the shifter may partially obscure it, but it seems like a good use of space. May have to enlarge the clock opening to make it viable though as the clock is rather small.
  2. Notice how the torsion bar is installed—it is adjustable. The second post photos show the torsion bar engaged in the rear-most point, where the first post has them in the middle. There are three slots available.
  3. Thanks Hemikiller, mine has had one crappy paint job and crappy masking job already, so it needs to be dealt with properly. New paint, new sticker. Thanks for the lead!
  4. Is there a source for replacing this sticker/label? I am getting ready to do lots of sanding and painting, ideally I put on a new one. Not sure if that is possible, not to mention legality.
  5. I am working on a set of 1931 plates. Patience was the key. The bodywork is tedious. They are in the final coat of primer waiting paint. I have to mix the color for the letters, once I have that I can do the main color and lettering. My problem now is motivation...
  6. I can adjust in the smallest of gaps, thanks for the tip.
  7. How much shipped to 92630? Do you have the upper mount bolt/hardware?
  8. I built it and it had antifreeze in it. I guess the antifreeze gave up during its long nap. But I am suspicious of the water pump impeller as well.
  9. Well—good news/bad news: it passed the combustion chamber leak test. Bad news because I don’t get a new stroker motor. Good news because fixing with a head gasket leak is a lot of work. Now to chase down the root cause. The electric fans are working. The thermostat is working (but may have stuck). I have a new one but I am not going to install it until I get the system cleaned out. There is lots of rust in the coolant—its nasty. I used a Prestone cooling system cleaner today and then flushed it....again...and again. Planning to do it one more time, and again... Not sure if I should throw a new water pump at it while I am at it. Should I be able to see the coolant “moving” through the radiator once the T-stat opens? I could only detect the slightest of movement. Thinking about pulling the radiator too and just taking it to be cleaned out. Just do it all, do it once. I did drive it about 20 miles today and while it did get warm, it did not overheat.
  10. Hmm Lux, that story sounds like it has some familiar characters. Hope the guy is OK now and that the hot lady friend is coming around.
  11. I went shopping for one about 14 years ago. I came home with the ‘72 Mach 1 instead—-I’m such an idiot! WTF was I thinking? Been kicking myself for about 12 years on that one.
  12. The Model A frame is quite flimsy in stock form—are you boxing it or buying a street rod frame so you have a solid platform? Here’s mine—dig those aftermarket wheels! Dude, those are 19’s! LOL
  13. Decision made—white it is. I picked up the paint today. Now, lots of work to do!
  14. Yes, I am interested. Faded isn’t a concern, I would only be concerned with damage to the webbing or the attaching parts. Can you PM pictures and a price? I need the upper mounting hardware too (bolts, cover if there is one).
  15. Based on how the top cover of the cowl was sectioned and the car being white—I had to look at the photos several times—i thought it was mine! That is the exact method of sectioning I did to pull the top cover. Nice job!
  16. Not sure if they are different for a coupe or a Mach, but I just need the original style shoulder belts and bolts for a ‘72 Mustang. I would consider the full front set. Ideally black, but any color would be considered. Thanks
  17. Nice work! My Dad was great at making interiors for Model A Fords using a commercial sewing machine, but I am with the others, I couldn’t even turn it on or thread the needle.
  18. I have the Total Control Product subframe connectors on my ‘69. There is one connector on each side going from the front to rear rail, then an x-brace that bolts in between them. Above that there is the typical export brace and monte-Carlo bar. I have to say the export brace and M/C bar were the best investments I made for that particular car. The ‘72 could stand for the subframe connectors—these things have a lot of flex.
  19. What I learned today: the ends of the bumper bend pretty easily. I did a bit of fitment work today. First I set up on the press and put a hair more bend into the left/center of the bumper where the initial damage was. Then I worked on fitting the ends and the bumper brackets. To bend the ends, I just held the bumper up vertically and dropped it on a piece of cardboard. The first time I put a little effort into it and learned they bend very easily—too easily in fact. So, big hammer and bend them back out, then some fiddling and I am really close. I need to do some minor tweaks, but it is aligned with the fenders. I need to do a bit more straightening on the left fender but I am going to achieve a very nice fit when I am done. Some pictures...
  20. I am surprised at the popularity of white. If you voted for white, if you don’t mind, please tell me why you selected white. Sorry green, not going to happen. Pewter—keep talking, I sure love that color....(but no) ha ha
  21. Having a tough time deciding, I have had years to think about this and still am struggling with the decision. Original white...re-sell red...cool shade of blue with argent accents. Your thoughts are appreciated. Sorry yellow, not this time. I do like the silver color that they were painted, but would rather avoid a metallic.
  22. I handmade parts that looked a bit like Lenix had, but I actually removed the windshield and removed about 1/3 of the cowl top panel. I chose the shortest area to cut through the top panel as I would be butt welding it back together and wanted a small area to have to repair. I removed the top so I had good access to the bottom panel/hat and could treat the repaired area, seam seal it from the top, and paint it before putting the top panel back on. I really didn’t want to have to weld upside down, so this worked for me. I have lots of pictures, but I would have to dig to find them. My car needed a new windshield anyway (old one cracked) so it was a non-issue. The repair when complete is completely invisible and will definitely outlast me. My son and I are planning on prepping for paint in December, then I have to get booth time arranged at work. The hardest part, picking a color.
  23. I like the setback you have on the front edge of the hood. The OE style looks weird to me, too close. Love the color too!
  24. So I just bought some of the Prestone flush fluid. I used a bottle in my ‘31 Model A—drove it about an hour, idled for a while, then drained it. Flushed with fresh water for another 30 minutes or so after that and then refilled the system. So far, it seems to be better. I was worried about it being aggressive to an old radiator (90+ years!), and I do have an area in the middle of the radiator that looks corroded (green) but it isn’t leaking now and wasn’t leaking there before. I am planning the same treatment for my ‘69 after the head gasket leak test. Glad to hear you don’t have a HG leak!
  25. Interesting! Good luck! Do you have a Plan B if the head gaskets are leaking? Fix it or something fun? Off topic...LOL
  • Create New...