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    71 Mustang - project car


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  1. Priced it out the job to mill and turn a 1.40" rod with a .75" slot and it's going to run about $35 a piece. Once you factor in the plate mount, it will be $100 total. Of course this is for a single car, so it's probably the cheapest option. Unless others were interested in the aluminum design out of one piece.
  2. I will ask if they can do what you mentioned. If so, it would be cheaper than routing the design from one block. Hopefully!
  3. The diameter of the frame hole is 1.40"; tube is not made to this O/D size (to my knowledge). Size is key because you want this tube to fit snugly into the hole to prevent play. Also, you probably can't see it but the inside hole inside the tube is elongated to fit the heim joint vertically and to provide a flat surface for misalignment spacers. If you did find a tube that was 1.40" or if you ground down a 1.50" tube to this diameter, you would never find tube wall that would work with a 5/8th hiem. Believe me, I ran though several "homemade" bracket ideas but the hole size/hiem size prevents anything mounted inside the frame without a elongated opening. Welding brackets to the frame was never an option. One of my goals was to make a bracket that could be removed from a car, to go back to factory setup at any point. To answer your question "why aluminum?" - Aluminum does carry higher material costs but is a softer material so machining costs are cheaper than steel. This part is actually a few dollars cheaper in aluminum than cold rolled steel.
  4. Those of you that have looked up how to built DIY adjustable strut rods have probably seen this website.... http://dazed.home.bresnan.net/adjustable. But, much to my disappointment, the website took down their instructions on the strut rods because of concern over the hardware used to attach the rod to the frame. I never really loved the design to begin with because it pushed out the pivot point 2"-3" from the original factory placement. So I've been working over the past few weeks to design a setup that would be cost effective and would keep the factory pivot point. Here is my design: The material used is 7075 aluminum, which is lighter than steel and has a higher tensile strength. They are designed to fit inside the bushing hole in the frame and a standard 1.50" rod end head diameter fits and moves up/down freely. It allows the pivot point to be .5" behind the face of the frame. The ears extend .75" past the opening and two 3/8" bolt holes are drilled to mount it to the frame (holes would have to be drilled into the frame). I had a machine shop quote it and to make just two was going to be ridiculous. But the price goes down with the more copies made (apparently most of the cost is setting up the CNC). If 10 are ordered (4 cars + mine), the cost is 50 per unit ($100 total) If 20 are ordered (9 cars + mine), the cost is $30.00 per unit ($60 total) If enough of you are serious about buying these, let me know and we can get a pretty good deal. Or if you have any suggested tweaks to the design, let me know!
  5. No A/C but i will still have a heater. I'm looking at using something like this: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/vta-506101/overview/ It will take up much less room - I should be able to mount it under the dash, and hide the lines from the block somewhere along the fender apron. over the past few weeks, I've been working on a fiberglass "box" surrounding the brake booster/master cylinder/steering shaft area. I wanted to continue the smooth look across the entire firewall. I used floral foam to create the shape and duct tape as the release agent. I think it turned out pretty good. I'll post some new pictures soon.
  6. That's the plan!! I took some mock-up pictures of the stance i'm after (don't laugh! i work with what i have!). The 'custom wheel' is 28" wide which should equal a 20" with 315s (30 or 40 sidewalls - i can't remember now). Actually since this picture I've raised the car another inch or two - Just enough to tuck a little tire in the wheel well but not enough to cause massive fab work. I'm planning on running a 4-link with coilovers so will be losing the leafs.
  7. I'm traveling for work so I'm waiting on the wife to take the pictures. I should have them tonight
  8. I'm interested - do you have any pictures of it? How much shipped to 85259? Please let me know. -- Thanks, Dalton K Iconic Motive i don't have pictures at the moment but I'll make sure to post some tonight. It looks like shipping will be in the $30 to $40 range using UPS (including packaging). Is $100 total fair?
  9. I'm selling my spoiler off my 71 coupe. Doing a resto-mod on the ol' girl and removing the spoiler completely. It's in good shape and comes with mounting hardware. Just make an offer. I'm located in central Arkansas but will ship anywhere.
  10. I've been back and forth on ideas to create more room for bigger tires on my 71 coupe. I've thought about fabing up some mini-tubs but I don't want to lose my rear seat if possible. So my latest idea is to cut out the section of the factory wheel tub that archs down and is spot welded to the quarter panel. Then I could get flat sheet metal and extend the top of the wheel tub out and connect it directly to the quarter. Lastly, I could cut out the lip in the inner wheel well and reinforce the quarter panel with 1/4" rod. I created this picture in Paint so you'd have an idea what I'm talking about - Thankfully my fab skills are better than my drawing skills! :s It's a lot of fab work for minimum gains in wheel clearance, so I'm wondering if it's worth it. What do you think? Besides wheel clearance, this would also get rid of this gap between the tub and quarter that is prone to rusting out.
  11. Good advice! I look back on everything I did with lead as teenager and young adult I'm amazed I don't have medical issues. Times have really changed, check out the photo of the Fire Department letting my son cut cans in half with the jaws of life during "show and tell day". That was 16 years ago, imagine that happening now days? But yet we all survived. Jim Oh wow! lol! That's a great picture...Before kids I couldn't care less about safety. Man, things change with kids!
  12. Not the entire quarter - Just the lower section behind the wheel. The reason I'm working on the B pillar is because someone along the line has applied about 1" worth of bondo over the lead seam. And all the metal behind this bondo has rusted out. Thankfully the rust stops about 1" above and below the panel seam, so a full quarter is not needed.
  13. Hey guys, I'm started much needed rust repair on the B pillars this weekend, when I noticed what looks like lead filler between the roof skin and quarter panel. I'm guessing this seam was probably lead filled from the factory, and I'm thinking some of you guys have ran across this too. I'm wondering how to remove it safely? I have two little rug-rats running around and I want to remove it safely without exposing them to lead. How do I do this?
  14. I actually was about to post the exact same question...I'm looking at the body assembly book on CJ here - http://www.cjponyparts.com/body-assembly-manual-1971-1972/p/BKAM41/. One thing to consider - CJ Pony has free shipping on this book.
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