midlife

Cat litter trumps them all.

Then there's this...Why are you following me?

Ahhh...your British women have the best accents in the world, except perhaps the Ozzie ones. You also have the best documented history over the past 1500 years, making England/GB the envy of the world of historians. I've always wanted to travel to England: there is so much to see (and pubs to visit).

Must not have had your Tim Horton's coffee, eh?

If you believe the ground line is one of the two leads going to the AM cassette, you're wrong. The two leads are fused power and fused lamps. Ground is via the chassis.

Welcome back; always good to see what you've been up to.

AustinVert is the name.

male pin is red/white: water temp 1st female pin is white/red: oil pressure 2nd female pin is coil and lead to starter solenoid (I) 3rd female pin is run-only power for carb anti-stall solenoid Yes, car won't catch with tach unplugged, as the tach is designed to be IN-LINE with the ignition and the coil, as it is a current-sensing device. The engine will crank and catch, as one of the 2 second female pin wires is the starter solenoid which feeds the coil ONLY when cranking.

The four pin plug is a 72/73 engine gauge feed harness, and those should be reproduced. The three pin plug is for some sort of emissions; you can probably ignore it. The "black" one pin plug is actually brown, and is for the PRNDL lamp if you have an automagic transmission. The last one pin plug looks like the lead for an optional engine lamp lead.

Have you checked these folks? https://www.autocolorlibrary.com/

1. Yes, stereo radio output plug. 2. Plug for map light 3. Radio input plug (power, lamp) 4. Clock plug

That tester is great, but is useful only for the oil, water and fuel gauges. The OP asked about testing his new LED lamps. I thought about it some more, and there is a way: Find the bulb (1895) that comes from a red molded 2 pin connector. I believe this is for the heater switch light. Disconnect the connector and feed +12V to the blue/red wire (female side) and ground to the black pin (male bullet) or to the chassis. That should energize all of the dash lamps on the circuit. Probably best to disconnect the headlight switch connector, as I don't know if there would be any feedback issues

Yes! But here in Tucson, there are no lawns: only gravel or dirt yards. It's a desert. So..."Hey you scorpion! Get off my rocks!"

There is a way, but you're likely to cause more damage to the circuit card than it is worth the check for lights. Use alligator clips for the blue/red wire lead and the ground lead. The pins vary from standard dash cluster to tach dash cluster.

Like: the convertible with the top down is one of the best designs out there. Dislike: on 71/72's, too much wiring goes between the fuse box and the green connector on the back. It is a real bitch to stuff the wires back in.