midlife

Actually, Tucson is about 10 degrees cooler than Phoenix. It is quite pleasant, even in the middle of summer, so long as you stay out of the sun and are in the shade. I know; I've been here on business many times since 1995 and fell in love with Tucson the first visit. With extremely low humidity (typically 5% except during 2-3 months during the late summer - monsoon season when humidity rises to perhaps 25%), it feels much cooler in the shade than the temperature would leave you to believe.

Yessir. That and I can have excellent Mexican food 24/7/365!

I'm now in Tucson and spent 3 days searching for housing that might fit my needs. Found 2 or 3, but were either in a terrible neighborhood or 10+ miles out of town with nothing nearby. I ended up finding a very nice rental property for the time being, and I hope to move here by mid-November. The bad news: I might not have space available to have the business up and running when I finally move in and settle. I'll know more once I'm here. I'll notify y'all what will be happening. The real bad news: I'll still be here offering wise cracks and crummy advice. Sorry 'bout that...

She'd be a Cougar by now...

They have (vintage) gas stations in Germany? Who'd a thunk that. Great pictures!

Does anyone know of a car with inauthentic miles? I didn't think so...

A good set of pole strippers are a good augmentation to one's tool set...heh heh.

Do you have a factory tach? It could be that the input transformer to the tach has failed, not allowing current to flow to the coil when in RUN. If you do have a factory tach, unplug it and jumper the two leads from the underdash harness, then try and start the car.

Can I interest you in a Trunk Monkey?

The light reflects off of the back side of the front bezel, and it is best to see the effect at night. During the day, you'll be hard-pressed to see any of the dash lamps.

Just so long as the cuss words are deliberate, you'll be fine.

RCCI tells you how to make the changes, but it assumes one of the ammeter lines is hot; in your case it will not be. You'll have to snag an ACC or RUN-only line to the gauge as well as a ground line (grounds already at the 3 gauge cluster).

Don't have 1971 tach compatible headlight harnesses. And no, I would not even attempt to wire in those wires, as they are designed such that a very small difference in resistance between two paths is what's needed to make the ammeter work. We're talking 0.1 ohm or less difference. I simply don't have the tools to get that fine a resistance.

No. The ammeter signals are buried in the headlight harness, and only in the tach-compatible headlight harness. The reproduction version IS NOT tach compatible, despite what the catalog states. Tach will work regardless of headlight harness.

The large female bullet is the lead for the optional underhood lamp. The convertible circuit breaker, if there is one, should hang directly down from the battery side of the starter solenoid, with another post/nut where the convertible power lead attaches.