midlife

It appears that the door jamb switch (at least that one...) works, but I can't tell if it is due to the plunger or your screwing around with the wires. If the wires, then you have a bad crimp there. The courtesy lights should work when the door pin is out and off when the pin is pushed in.

The convenience harness has 2 male plugs: one for the seat back release with a thick wire, usually black, and the other for the seat belt light/relay system (thinner wire). The thinner wire plugs into the 3 prong plug coming from the fuse box; the thicker wire goes to another yellow 3 prong plug coming from a power line coming through the firewall and attaches at the other end to the battery side of the solenoid. Your picture appears to be the latter (firewall) power lead. I can hear the video but I can't see any pictures, so I can't tell you what's going on. If your passenger side courtesy light comes on but not the driver's side when you open the driver's door, then you probably have a faulty connection at the bulb/socket. Each year (71,2,3) has slightly different wiring for the courtesy lights. IIRC, the 73 underdash courtesy lights have a separate harness that starts on the passenger side and runs to the driver's side and stops, but may have outlets for door lights (option). If this is correct, then you may have a broken wire between the passenger and driver's side bulbs.

I'd examine your relay you are using to supply 12V to the ignitor: it should be RUN-only and that should shut off both the engine and the tach should stop as well.

The base configuration has a 3 pin door jamb switch on the driver's side and a 2 pin on the passenger side. However, with the convenience harness as an option, the passenger side door jamb connector plugs into the convenience harness pigtail and a 3 pin actually goes to the door jamb to allow the seat back release to occur when the passenger door opens. The courtesy lights work when either the driver or passenger side doors open allowing current to flow from the green/yellow wire at the door jamb to the black/blue wires, which actually light the lamps.

Try 1004 bulbs. See for a more detailed discussion on bulbs and sockets.

Whew! I didn't earn a note, thankfully!

Ahhh...I just got a notification of a new Badge, but have no idea what for or what it means. I tried searching the forum and couldn't find any info. So...is there a list of badges and what they represent? I so much wanted to start this thread out with this video clip... Don't Need No Stinkin' Badges

Surely you mean the speedometer?

When it doesn't start, you need to find out whether you have spark and gas. Put a timing light on #1 spark plug wire and see if the light blinks on/off. Pull the air cleaner off, and see if you can see gas when you move the accelerator rod. If both check out, then the problem is related to timing (although it is strange that timing would be on, then off, then back on again).

I found the root cause of the BendPac hydraulic fluid canisters failing and letting oil all over the floor: they are made of plastic that under the stress of holding nearly 5 gallons of fluid and exposure to ozone and various shop fluid vapors, fatigue, crack, and fail. I had 2 fail on me, and then back to the factory parts manual: there is supposed to be a METAL reservoir that doesn't have these problems. I ordered one on-line and it worked well for the few years I had it.

Rhode Island Wire sells most of the Ford wiring by the foot, but you better make sure you have the right gauge. https://www.riwire.com/

That's typically found in most Mustangs: it is the manufacturer of the seat's tag.

OMG! Here's wishing you a speedy and painfree recovery.

Now THAT'S what I was talking about! And the poster's name was Jason...isn't he the guy with the Hockey mask and chainsaw?

David, I don't see the connector from the battery, so I can't tell if your wiring at the starter solenoid is reversed or not (it actually can work by swapping the starter and the battery connections). It doesn't, technically. The convenience wire simply needs a hot connection and a circuit breaker to provide power. When you have a tach dash and the isolation post, there are two leads on the main headlight harness that are hot: one goes to the starter solenoid and the other to the isolation post where it is married to the alternator output line. Inside the headlight harness, the two main leads are tied together so either one can be tapped for use as a hot point. If an isolation post was used with a standard dash and the Convenience group, then the isolation post was simply used with a jumper wire from the starter solenoid to de-clutter all the wires around the starter solenoid. I don't think Ford did this, as it would require two extra parts that are superfluous and the bean-counters would have a conniption!

The junction block is only used for factory tach dash configurations. The convenience harness, backlight, power windows, hood lamp have nothing to do with mandating the junction block. The purpose of the junction block is to provide the ammeter with a one line showing the alternator output and the other line attached to the battery side of the starter solenoid to show the battery output/input.

You're placing refurbished parts on a newly painted hood with no protection for the new paint? You taking lessons from Weston? And you're wearing a jacket and "beanie" in July? Does it ever turn to a hot summer in Homer? Good work! keep it up!

This thread reminds me of the story of replacing the ax handle from G. Washington, then replacing the ax head...is anything left from the original?

That car looks to be in great shape, but probably not well suited for general grocery getting I would guess.

Sawed off body parts seem to fit well into the side pockets, if you can stand the smell.

Those old floor mats are a perfect definition of "fugly"! Looks much better now.

Are you asking about the 2013 Feb edition or Volume 13, Feb? I have the 2013 (volume 36) but not the earlier one.

I personally don't recommend engine overhaul if it will be longer than a year before you install and fire it up. Longer than that, if there's anything wrong with it, the warranty will have expired.

Gutentight? 25-35 ft-lbs for 1966.

My take: Tackle the most important job that is unique to that vehicle: the unibody. Strip everything down/out and put it in storage. Examine the body very carefully for rust, dents, prior accident damage and get that repaired first. Spending lots of $$ on engine/tranny/suspension/interior is wasted if the car body is in bad shape and ready to bend if something hits it. You sagging doors indicate frame issues at worst; although the hinges might be bad. The body is unique and must be in adequate shape before everything else is done. If the body is no good, everything you've stripped out can be transferred to another body.