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jorgem2

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Everything posted by jorgem2

  1. Same here 38 total no problems, been like that for years. I had 18 at idle and 20 mechanical advance for years. Last year tried a locked distributor at 38 degrees and seems to run better at idle and low speeds. Cam is 255 duration .605 lift solid flat tappet and approx 10.5 or more compression
  2. I would drive it more to let everything settle, 2 months old how many miles driven? probably not much yet. Im liking the rear lower lately, as original
  3. I wonder what switch is that left of the headlight switch? Looks like a convertible top switch
  4. Hello, sounds like you already have gaskets but I have had great luck with these Mr Gasket https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mrg-5836/overview/make/ford I have had the Felpro print o seals fail. Seems the bead of silicone printed in there is too thick and extrudes or deforms the gasket paper as it’s torqued. Maybe they are better now or updated the design. Felpro makes good products. I have swapped intakes at least a dozen times on Clevelands. I spray the gasket with a mist of 3m contact adhesive and let dry until tacky. Lay gaskets on a cleaned cylinder head surface with lacquer thinner or acetone or similar to remove all oils and they will not move. Use a large bead of rtv on the end rails and let dry overnight. Hang the turkey pan in the garage to show your friends the size of the ports. Good luck and nice car!
  5. I kept reading the forum and saw this https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-fmx-transmission-shifter-seal-replacement-how-to
  6. Aside from the above mentioned dipstick oring There is also a seal on the shift linkage bell crank lever that often leaks and could be changed with trans in place. FMX are very durable, try to fix the leak and see if it runs. Troubleshoot the issue before rebuilding, last thing you need is to rebuild it and have the same problem again. If you had a problem with the other one not shifting to second gear, sometimes the governor gets clogged with junk. There is a small screen there, you can access it by removing the tail shaft. I think $2000 is too much, it’s a simple transmission compared to the newer ones. Good luck
  7. Hello I have magnaflows with 3” h pipes and 2 1/2 pipes after the mufflers and never a drone. Loud at acceleration and full throttle but not too bad at cruising speed 55-75
  8. Agree that is an aftermarket fan. However original Ford mustang flex fans commonly exploded. I had one disintegrate and luckily only took out the shroud and a small dent in the hood. This is one time where a reproduction fan or good aftermarket would be better choice. I think Ford had a recall back in the 70’s and there may be an updated part number if originality is important. Good luck
  9. Thanks for the suggestions, Looks like it's Time to for me to start sanding then.
  10. Does anyone have advice for this new project I have, it's a Galaxie I picked up. The prior owner had bodywork done and then sanded the primer to apply sealer or paint but never got around to it. Many areas where bare metal and many areas were thin primer which now developed mild surface rust over the years. there is no pitting just surface rust. Should I use some kind of rust converter on the surface rust or just sand it down as clean as I can and primer/seal it? I'm afraid the rust converter or acid will get into the existing primer and soak in, to later cause problems when it gets painted. Thanks in advance for any recommendations on products to use as well.
  11. I have used both Hooker Competition And the Super Competition headers, excellent fit on both. No rubbing anywhere. The super comps are closer the ground due to bigger and longer pipes and a larger collector, totally unnecessary for a street car. 6915 and the larger 6211 http://www.summitracing.com/search/year/1972/make/ford/model/mustang/brand/hooker-headers?N=4294950314%2B4294951343%2B4294951333%2B400390&SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=351c%20headers
  12. Mine has been missing for about 7 years and wouldnt think twice about not running one. You may have to fab one if your block plate is from the FMX, no inspection cover will fit. If you used the V-6 Ford Blockplate that came with the tranny and it worked then a junkyard should have one. I don't know if the AOD inspection cover will bolt to the 4r70w It can always be fabed/installed after everything is done. Best of luck
  13. I think the Dodge Charger name is now ok to use on the fastest 4 door car in the world.
  14. Hello Kurt, check your pm there are these keepers to add spring installed height https://www.lunatipower.com/ProductGroup.aspx?id=204&cid=27 Also those valves being thinner seats may sink deeper into the head when installed as well as different retainers and locks may net you the correct installed height. Call Alex parts they will steer you in the right direction I have used those valves and they worked very well I n a mild race car best of luck
  15. Thanks for posting, that was cool. There were several odd Fords built in Venezuela, I rode in a 2 wheel drive Bronco they built there, when I visited Venezuela. Never seen one before. Also drove by the Ford plant in the 90's I think it closed down now. Wonder how many Mustangs are still there...
  16. Here is a copy of the warning sticker that comes with Detroit Lockers In case its not legible the last line says. "May cause a mishap leading to injury or death" All kidding aside, its a handful in the rain, rear seems to move around a bit too much in curves as you let off the gas, or on uneven roads. Makes it almost feel like it started to slide out from under you. I have the soft locker in mine that has a clutch pack to smooth out the engaging. Not very noisy at all, but you can feel the Lock/unlock cycles. I also got it because it was cheap, but a true limited slip would be better for a street car.
  17. The LS fits well, since its a great copy of the 351 Cleveland.
  18. Theyre small valve. On Large valve heads the valves just about touch each other
  19. There is a filter "sock" on the pick up tube inside the gas tank. Sender has to come out to check it. If it has been in there since the 70's chances are its clogged or has a layer of varnish. Make sure to have the least amount of fuel in the tank before removal. Steel lines can also get clogged with rust build up inside, blow out with compressed air carefully. Leftover fuel will spray everywhere. just some ideas to check.
  20. Timing chain appears to be new - it's not a stock unit. My bet is that it was put on the wrong key slot. We'll see. -Kurt Some other info: It has double springs on the heads. Can't see the timing marks yet, and I'm not dressed to tear into it now. That said, I've got an engine stand, but no engine hoist - yet. That shall change, as I don't trust ANYTHING about Jethro the Rebuilder's motor at this point. I'm going to do a few things while it is still in the car, but if it doesn't pass a leak-down test, this engine is coming OUT. No telling what rings they put in it either. -Kurt I have a set of pushrods and probably a set of rocker arms you can have for free. im 20 minutes south of you. Timing didn't do that for sure, valve may have been stuck or rocker arm broke, or valve hit piston. Let me know if I can help. 3xx-726-324six Jorge
  21. Thanks but its not mine, wish I had one and the money to finish one. I saw it on a drag racing site....
  22. Wish it was closer. Even an m code is probably a good deal if it's not too rusty. Is there a member nearby that would like to take a look? I would buy it and take a road trip to get it.
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