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    1971 mach-1 351C


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mycoses's Achievements


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  1. I doubt if you could get a dealer installed block heater for $20. Anyone ever try to remove a freeze plug with the engine in the car? easy on the assembly line but not in the car.
  2. I beleive there are two size bolts and the narrower longer bolts go into the four holes at the center of the manifold. run the bolts into the holes on the head with finger tighten before installing the manifold to make sure the threads are clean , not stripped and not binding. doing this will tell you which bolts fit where. remember there is an alternating pattern to tightening the bolts... consult shop manual. don/t forget the valley pan which a PITA to install. I found it very helpful to buy some threaded rod from hardware store the same size as the center bolts and cut off 4 pieces of the rod so they are slightly longer than the bolts and install the threaded rod loosely into the center bolt holes so the rod sticks up and acts as a guide to drop the manifold over the threarded rod so it sits in perfect position then loosely screw in all the bolts and then remove the threaded rod. perfect installation every time. the valley pan never fits perfect initially and i had to bend up the flanges that cover the ports to get a better fit.
  3. brand new in the original box Edelbrock Performer 351C-4V intake manifold item #2665 never used . only for 4V heads.. $250 free shipping.
  4. Here is a problem most people never have. I installed a 393 C stoker in my 71 mach and after about 10000 miles noticed abnormal wear and noise from the timing chain and gears which I removed for closer inspection. At that time I noticed by accident excessive motion in the crank shaft. Clunk clunk back and forth so I measured the motion with dial indicator at .055 in. WTF Waayy too much motion back and forth free play. What is causing that! I could only guess it was a problem with the thrust bearing. So off came the oil pan and the main cap at the thrust bearing journal. The thrust bearing wore a groove into the side of the crank thro next to the main journal which caused excessive space on the side of the thrust bearing and allowed excessive front to back motion at the crank. My $ 600 forged crank was toast and the motor had to be rebuilt. I am no mechanic but could not understand how this could happen. Talked to a few people who had no idea and a few who said there was a problem with the C6. Talked to a middle aged ford transmission mechanic and asked if a C6 could have a problem that would allow continuous pressure on the back of the crank which would cause abnormal wear in the thrust bearing after 10000 miles and his answer was……yes. My damn rotten luck . When I built the car I had the C6 rebuilt at a trans shop and ordered a mild shift kit installed. Something got fu____d up. How would you know if you had this problem from the start.
  5. I has similar alignment problems while installing steering shaft. turned out the previous owner had removed the steering wheel and used a BFH to beat on the top of the steering shaft while pulling up on the wheel to get the wheel off. after taking apart the complete assembly i discovered that the central shaft had been shortened by 1.5 inches due to his beating on the shaft because the central shaft is a telescoping unit of two pieces one inside the other and the unit will slide inside itself in an front end crash to collapse the center shaft and keep it from becoming a spear in the chest. you will have to get length measurements of an undamaged shaft to see if yours is ok. IF your shaft is too short (a common male problem) you will be able to lengthen the telescoped shaft by clamping one end to wood and hammering the edge of the other telescope to lengthen the shaft .
  6. I have a 71 fastback mach-1 M code 351C-4V C6 collecting dust in my garage soooo yes the 4V exhaust manifolds will work w/ the C6.
  7. 71-73 center console . don't know if clock works. needs cleaning and vinyl paint. original color dark blue. minor half inch crack at edge of ash tray opening. one broken missing screw hole at bottom edge of console . pay for shipping from 93631. send upload your pics email for pics.
  8. purchase a DIY manual called DIFFERENTIALS, AXLES AND DRIVELINES which also comes w/ a DVD showing how to rebuild different rear gears. www.cartechbooks.com. I used it to rebuild my ford 9 in while i watched the procedure on the DVD and had no problems but did have to buy a couple of new tools...the guy who dies w/ the most tools wins.
  9. have to remove intake manifold. don't have to remove exhaust manifold but might be easier if you do. some people think its better to remove head bolts in the opposite order they are installed. then stick a big screw driver or pry bar into one of the intake ports and pry up gently to release the head from the gasket.
  10. My C6 trans destroyed my engine. Installed rebuilt 351C and rebuilt C6 w/ a shift kit and 10,000 miles later had trouble w / timing chain wear and while removing the timing chain noticed a lot of motion free play in the crank. Thinking something was wrong w/ my thrust bearing I dropped the oil pan and removed the #3 main cap and to my unpleasant surprise there was a deep grove in the flat part of the crank journal which rubs against the thrust bearing at the rear of the bearing . the rear part of the bearing was also severely worn down. I could not just replace the bearing the entire crank was toast. Wtf! One of my worst freaking days. Many conversations later w/ many car guys it became apparent there was abnormal pressure on the back of the crank from the TC causing premature thrust bearing wear. What the hell would cause that. Spoke to an auto trans specialist at the local ford dealership and he said yes if there is a problem in the C6 with the hydraulic pressure it can cause the TC to push constantly on the back of the crank. Apparently , the TC pushes on the back of the crank only w/ hard acceleration and backs off then throttle is released. Don’t know if maybe improper installation of the aftermarket shift kit could cause this . any way I installed a different C6 so hopefully this will not happen again.
  11. the stock ford jacks used the pinch welds and most of the new cars also use the pinch welds along the sides for jacking. So i will chock the back wheels to prevent rolling and jack up each side of the car on the pinch welds at the front where the original jack was supposed to go moving from side to side jacking up a little at a time until the car is high enough to place jack stands under the front frame rails at which point I lower the car enough to contact the jack stands and I leave the jacks also in place as a two point stabilization. to speed up the process i cut a slit in a hockey puck and use that to jack up at the pinch weld with a hydraulic jack. works best if you have the luxury of two hydraulic jacks. I jack the rear under the pumpkin and put jack stands under each axel. I made some ramps out of layered 2 x 10 wood and run the car up on those if I am not pressed for time. that leaves the car weight on the front tires and is very stable and safe
  12. I had a similar problem on the road w/ backfiring and dying and turned out to be a broken distributor gear which kept the engine from turning. pull the distributor and have it checked . you could turn the crank over by hand just a few degrees and if the dist rotor is not turning the chain ( or cam) is toast. If the rotor is turning when rotating crank by hand the chain should be good but maybe loose and jumped a tooth on the gear. turning crank by hand will not generate enough power to damage valves or pistons but cranking with the starter will cause damage.
  13. the pertronix power relay generates a full 12v to the coil for use w/ elecronic ignition and avoids messing with the pink wire. if anyone has installed this item http://www.pertronix.com/docs/instruction-sheets/0000-008770.pdf let me know if you had any problems.
  14. If anyone has a wiring diagram supplied w/ the NPD wiring harness please fax to 559-8972645 or copy and send to me on this site. thanx
  15. IF you have installed duraspark on a 71 -351c please tell me where the white and red wires from the NPD harness hook up to . does the white wire go to the I or S terminal on the solenoid relay and do you disconnect the pink wire or not. the auto restomod diagram shows pink wire intact, white to I terminal and red wire connected to red/green stock wire going to + post of coil ????
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