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Chris Womack

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Everything posted by Chris Womack

  1. If you buy starter from auto parts store you may be disappointed, typically foreign products. If you have originally equipped starter then find a shop to rebuild it. The cost will be less and you will have better part. Not long ago my alternator failed, I inspected part available at local auto parts store and discovered it was produced in china -- casting looked terrible. I found a local shop to repair my OEM part.
  2. My mustang is occupying my son's extended spring break. His efforts to patch the rear passenger quarter panel found additional rust in the wheel well. It is where the right hand rear floor meets the wheel well. A body shop replaced some of the floor panels in the 1990's. If possible I would like to avoid replacing wheel well as this looks like a big task, has anyone had success patching damaged sections of wheel well? The next step is to remove as much undercoating to determine extent of damage. Please let me know if you have any suggestions.
  3. I replaced my rear brake line, currently rear-drum but expect it wouldn't be difficult to adapt for disc if needed in the future. https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/zin7101-om.html
  4. Nice, I am sure the short ride brought back memories.
  5. They were bough out by Johnson Controls and quality has tanked. I personally have a Sears Diehard battery in my 71 -- no problems.
  6. I used an adhesive when installing my trunk weatherstripping -- done in the 80s.
  7. I was looking at restoring my car's factory air conditioning system, didn't see many options on the condenser but did find this http://www.accondenserstore.com/p351607.html Does anyone have any experience with locating this part or using this company? Chris
  8. Will need to know the gear ratio in your 8" rear-end.
  9. You may have additional/different hookups for tach, but here is an illustration, i.e., look at the four wires that plug into voltage regulator. The terminals are labeled so you can make proper connections. If you are still not seeing it charge, it may be a electrical problem, use ohm meter to check continuity for each of the wires connecting the alternator and voltage regulator. Use a volt meter to verify you have voltage on the green wire with red stripe, mine is 14.5 volts. https://www.google.com/search?hl=en&site=imghp&tbm=isch&source=hp&biw=1280&bih=633&q=1971+mustang+ford+351+alternator+wiring+illustration&oq=1971+mustang+ford+351+alternator+wiring+illustration&gs_l=img.3...4448.18563.0.18804.
  10. Chris Womack


    Welcome from Oklahoma City!
  11. I had the same experience, replaced battery, alternator and voltage regulator, still not charging. I found some problems with alternator harness (performed temp repair until I work with MidLife on correct alternator harness for my car), but still not charging. Some research revealed the problem is the green wire with red stripe (the one you are holding in your hand in picture). It should have some voltage providing reference signal that is used to determine if the charging system should charge the battery. I was getting zero volts so knew I had a short somewhere. I told my son the problem is the green wire with red stripe and he found the problem in 4.5 minutes -- it was in the harness running along the core support. A quick repair and now getting 14.5 volts when engine is running.
  12. Bummer about Safelite - they installed mine with no hassles, and the guy actually managed to not mess up the repop trim I ordered. He actually liked working with the older cars and really knew his stuff. Now, the backlight was a different story. Everything would've gone well, had the new gasket not been as fat as it was. There was some unwanted tweaking of the backlight trim, but it's not horrible enough to worry about. If I decide to get new trim, I'll just glue it in next time. Yes, I was surprised when they turned away business. They did do my windshield previously but that was back in the 90's :-)
  13. My windshield needs to be replaced, Safelite doesn't replace any longer. It is hard to find glass shops that will work on older cars, I did get a quote from one local glass shop but told glass is not original. Does anyone have any recommendations on replacement front windshield for a 71? I found these online: https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/07041381.html https://www.npdlink.com/store/products/mustang_windshield_tinted_carlite_brand_with_ford-100224-498.html
  14. My car spun into a wall wearing Cooper Cobra tires, I pass on Cooper. I am currently using BFG but will consider other options next time I am purchasing tires as the cost is 50 percent higher versus previous tire purchases.
  15. I think that would be the best option, I will PM later and we can work out details on getting the harness from NPD modified. What is the difference between 14305-5A and 14305-6A? I did notice that one of the three plug's wires on my harness is thicker than the others (Black with Orange stripe).
  16. Discovered my 71's charging system is not working and alternator to voltage regulator wiring harness is in bad shape so I am looking to replace. I called NPD and told them that I had no tach and no gauges and they said they didn't have a harness for my car. I was surprised, looking at my harness it has three boots on back of alternator and it looks like this one: https://www.npdlink.com/store/products/mustang_wire_loom_alternator_to_voltage_regulator-102023-2878.html NPD shows two harnesses on their website: 1. with Tach no Gauges, 2. No Tach, with gauges. I thought 71 had tach and gauges or idiot lights (no tach no gauges), is this harness going to work?
  17. Yes, was having tire changed recently, good thing I was helicopter mode as I stopped the young man from taking air wrench to my hubcap. ::thumb::
  18. Hi from Oklahoma City!!
  19. Glad to hear that you have resolved the issue, before I switched to Ford Duraspark II distributor I had a breaker point distributor and still recall some of the experiences with points and condenser failing.
  20. Breaker point distributor, I would check the points and condenser. I had a couple of experiences where a bad condenser would make my car run terrible.
  21. I would check vacuum connections first, then electrical connections in the ignition system. What type of distributor? Use a voltmeter to verify voltage at the ignition coil is 10+ volts.
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