Jump to content

Chris Womack

  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Chris Womack

  1. If you buy starter from auto parts store you may be disappointed, typically foreign products. If you have originally equipped starter then find a shop to rebuild it. The cost will be less and you will have better part.


    Not long ago my alternator failed, I inspected part available at local auto parts store and discovered it was produced in china -- casting looked terrible. I found a local shop to repair my OEM part.

    • Like 1
  2. My mustang is occupying my son's extended spring break.  His efforts to patch the rear passenger quarter panel found additional rust in the wheel well.  It is where the right hand rear floor meets the wheel well.


    A body shop replaced some of the floor panels in the 1990's.


    If possible I would like to avoid replacing wheel well as this looks like a big task, has anyone had success patching damaged sections of wheel well?


    The next step is to remove as much undercoating to determine extent of damage.


    Please let me know if you have any suggestions.









  3. Saw what appeared to be an Ivy Glow 1973 Mustang Mach 1 in Midwest City yesterday.  I was driving and met him going the opposite direction so couldn't get a pic.  Car looked very good.  I'll watch the local shows and try to see if he's a member of the local Mustang Club.  


    Kinda hoping he might be a lurker on here already!




    Great, I will keep an eye out too.

  4. I was looking at restoring my car's factory air conditioning system, didn't see many options on the condenser but did find this http://www.accondenserstore.com/p351607.html


    Does anyone have any experience with locating this part or using this company?



  5. You may have additional/different hookups for tach, but here is an illustration, i.e., look at the four wires that plug into voltage regulator. The terminals are labeled so you can make proper connections.



    If you are still not seeing it charge, it may be a electrical problem, use ohm meter to check continuity for each of the wires connecting the alternator and voltage regulator. Use a volt meter to verify you have voltage on the green wire with red stripe, mine is 14.5 volts.



  6. I had the same experience, replaced battery, alternator and voltage regulator, still not charging. I found some problems with alternator harness (performed temp repair until I work with MidLife on correct alternator harness for my car), but still not charging. Some research revealed the problem is the green wire with red stripe (the one you are holding in your hand in picture). It should have some voltage providing reference signal that is used to determine if the charging system should charge the battery. I was getting zero volts so knew I had a short somewhere. I told my son the problem is the green wire with red stripe and he found the problem in 4.5 minutes -- it was in the harness running along the core support. A quick repair and now getting 14.5 volts when engine is running.

  7. Just go easy on the trim I don-t think they repo it and if they did it would not fit.


    Bummer about Safelite - they installed mine with no hassles, and the guy actually managed to not mess up the repop trim I ordered. He actually liked working with the older cars and really knew his stuff.


    Now, the backlight was a different story. Everything would've gone well, had the new gasket not been as fat as it was. There was some unwanted tweaking of the backlight trim, but it's not horrible enough to worry about. If I decide to get new trim, I'll just glue it in next time.


    Yes, I was surprised when they turned away business. They did do my windshield previously but that was back in the 90's :-)

  8. My windshield needs to be replaced, Safelite doesn't replace any longer. It is hard to find glass shops that will work on older cars, I did get a quote from one local glass shop but told glass is not original. Does anyone have any recommendations on replacement front windshield for a 71?


    I found these online:





  9. Try NPD 14305-6A, but you may have to change the connector for the green/red wire. This is the alternator harness for the 1972. I have the pins and connectors to change that puppy into a 1971.


    I think that would be the best option, I will PM later and we can work out details on getting the harness from NPD modified.


    What is the difference between 14305-5A and 14305-6A? I did notice that one of the three plug's wires on my harness is thicker than the others (Black with Orange stripe).



  10. Discovered my 71's charging system is not working and alternator to voltage regulator wiring harness is in bad shape so I am looking to replace.


    I called NPD and told them that I had no tach and no gauges and they said they didn't have a harness for my car. I was surprised, looking at my harness it has three boots on back of alternator and it looks like this one:




    NPD shows two harnesses on their website:


    1. with Tach no Gauges,

    2. No Tach, with gauges.


    I thought 71 had tach and gauges or idiot lights (no tach no gauges), is this harness going to work?

  11. Yes, was having tire changed recently, good thing I was helicopter mode as I stopped the young man from taking air wrench to my hubcap. ::thumb::


    My 73 vert came with them and I have give up on finding a set without curb rash. It is also funny that lots you see for sale have one of the simulated lug nuts broken off where a tire guy thought it was real and twisted it off with air wrench. Would be great if someone reproduced just the stainless outer part the zinc die cast part is easy to find good ones.

  • Create New...