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Chris Womack

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Everything posted by Chris Womack

  1. I wouldn't use gas with Ethanol. I would also look out for gas stations with additives, you may notice this too when rebuilding your carb the next time. I am sure it comes down to money -- more than likely tax payer money -- read about NASCAR's partnership with Growth Energy and National Corn Growers Association. Whenever I ask why, I like to see a Muckety graph showing relationships -- the one for Growth Energy is interesting. http://www.muckety.com/Growth-Energy/5060670.muckety
  2. I considered using the factory fuel injection when building my engine -- if would use Ford parts since they should be readily available from auto parts stores and (I may be wrong) but believe Ford had more engineers working on their designs than the aftermarket companies -- they probably knew what they were doing after making millions of EFI systems. Since I already spent a small fortune I went with the aluminum intake and Holley setup -- I figured I can always do the EFI switch later. I did use a Duraspark distributor fom a late 70's Mustang.
  3. Thanks for the responses, I got a pair from OMS -- see photo I added to my album!!
  4. My son and I mounted the bumper on my 71 Mustang. I wrecked the car in 1995 and have slowly been putting it back together. Last week, mounted headlights and the hood latch.
  5. I took my car to the track once after rebuilding the 302 engine and got 15.2 seconds in the quarter mile. At this time the car had a 8" differential with 2.75 gears and conventional differential. So only one tire was spinning, i.e., when I hit second and third gear the speedometer was jumping as if I were driving on ice (I had to let off of the acceleration because of no traction). I burned a bunch of rubber -- found around the wheel well and wheel opening. I then replaced with a 9" rearend and 3.50 gears and differential so both wheels would spin. It really did improve takeoff! but didn't make it another quarter mile run before I wrecked it on ice. One of these days I will put it back together and post a better quarter mile time!
  6. I was needing a pair of bumper brackets to mount the chrome bumper on my 71 Mustang. Does anyone have a pair? (Or how do the reproductions look compared to originals?)
  7. If you pulled the coil wire and it continued act like it was running (with no secondary electric voltage) then it sounds like you still had power on the red wire with blue stripe. This would energize the starter so that it was cranking the engine -- this likely happened until your batter ran out power, (i.e., it is similar to having your key in the ignition and keeping it turned all the way to 'start' position -- this is the only time you should expect power on red wire with blue stripe). When you say your postive post is hot - do you mean hot to touch or has power? If it is hot to touch then you may want to have your battery checked out too (may need to recharge it). It sounds like a sticking solenoid -- if you have a spare available you may want to replace it. I had a similar problem but mine turned out to be a short in the red wire with blue stripe -- you may look for damaged wire insulation too. (I had neutral safety switch issues.)
  8. I am interested -- may call you next week to see if you still have them. The pair on my car has been busted up from the trunk side.
  9. I want to get mine working so I can drive it again!
  10. My wife and I are shocked but mostly saddened -- with five boys and the youngest who is six years old -- it is difficult to understand how anyone could harm not only one but so many young children. We share your pain and prayers.
  11. Hi Mark Do you still have the grille for sale? Do you know if this is a reproduction? My son and is on a trip to Idaho and will be passing through Nebraska tomorrow or Friday so could avoid shipping costs. Is the grille in a box? Chris Womack
  12. I once had a problem with headlights flashing on and off -- it was the headlight switch. My switch got really hot when it was failing. It is easy to reach your hand behind instrument panel and feel it (behind pull out knob used to turn on headlights). If turning on the heater blower is killing the engine would look for a short in red wires with blue or green stripe. I believe current across red wire with blue stripe is during engine startup and after engine is started -- red wire with green stripe.
  13. Today my son and I replaced the fuel filter and replaced rubber fuel line for section from fuel pump to carburetor.
  14. Hi, The bad thing is I have a stack of pictures but can not find them -- some that I do have were added to my album. My mom got this car around 76 or 77, then I got it when I was about 18. So it has been in the family for sometime, my son says he wants it next. Chris
  15. My son and I removed the gas tank from the 1971 Mustang.
  16. I believe I have seen something on this website about 9" rearends, here is a link I found that lists donor cars. Years ago... it was so easy to find parts in salvage yards. http://www.mustangsandmore.com/ubb/FordRearDimensions.html
  17. I too replaced the leaf springs with rear end upgrade, and replaced the gear attached to speedometer cable inserted in the transmission to recalibrate speedometer. If you are going from Conventional to Traction-Lok differential it is well worth the swap. The 3.25 gears will be fine, moreso if you plan on driving on highway. I don't recall any issue with u-joints.
  18. I should have pointed out that when I replaced the springs the lower spring perches were also replaced. I also replaced the stock front sway bar with the 1 1/8" and added 3/4" rear.
  19. The front-end of my car also used to bottom out -- had something to do with speed and road surface. In my case the front coil springs were so worn out it was a typical driving experience -- didn't like it. The car sits much better after replacing the springs. Do you have a picture of how low your front end is off the ground?
  20. Hi Matt, I had the same problem, a 8" rear end using 2.75 gear with Conventional style differential, i.e., only one wheel would spin at a time. I got a 9" rear end at a salvage yard and had the third member rebuilt with 3.50 gears and new differential, Traction-Lok is a good choice. I didn't have any problem with the driveshaft length, I rebuilt the drum brakes and replaced the leaf springs. This was a great upgrade! (One thing I have been thinking of recently is swapping C4 for AOD transmission and using 4.11 or 4.86 gear instead of 3.50 -- maybe next car after more research.) Chris
  21. There are a couple of reasons why I chose Duraspark II, think I saw some listed in other responses below: * it is a fraction of the cost of any aftermarket distributor * very easy to setup * readily available at any auto parts store, (I am using one listed for 76' Mustang but need to swap out gear to match camshaft -- don't have to wait for replacement) * reliable, (mine has been in the car since I rebuilt the engine in 1990 -- no problems). I am fairly confident that Duraspark II has a better failure rate than after market distributors. * easy to maintain (I found maintenance documenation in local library on how to use multimeter to test -- remember this was before internet was invented. This type of information may be available from MSD or Pertronix too.) * The large distributor cap should avoid cross-fire better than smaller caps * can easily be upgraded to MSD 6AL module Chris
  22. Today showed my son how to remove the carburetor on the 71 Mustang, plan on rebuilding the Holley 600 (Model 4160). It has been on the engine for almost 20 years.
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