Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

4 Neutral

About Silverback

  • Rank
    Mustangs are cool

Vehicle Info

  • Vehicle(s)
    71 Mach 1


  • Location
    DC Metro
  1. What's the best way to build a $100k car? Spend $250K on a car... "flipping" a car is not like flipping a house. With a house all you have to do is find something undervalued that needs some work, fix obviously bad stuff, dress it up a little and collect your money... and then something will still go wrong. With a car, you either need to find one of the rare cars that are really worth something for nothing and restore it or find whatever car is hot in the restomod market for next to nothing and figure out the mods that someone will want on the car for it to sell well. EVERYTHING e
  2. I have wrenched professionally (I used to do installs and custom fabrication for a speed shop), and I own a bunch of different brands, more Craftsman then anything else (the polished ones are much better than the standard ones, worth the extra price), followed by Snap-On, a few Mac and Cornwell as well as tons of others. I'm going to recommend something surprising: 90% of the time my go-to rachet is a harbor freight composite (not the pro ones, I've never tried the pro ones): https://www.harborfreight.com/3-8-eighth-inch-heavy-duty-composite-ratchet-66313.html They feel better in your
  3. The thing is that we don't know what you're looking at and how much off it is. In theory, the stock mounting points are reinforced "hard points" in a stronger part of the pan that should be better than choosing other points even if you reinforce them. In some cases you'll fail a safety inspection by moving where the seat is bolted to the pan. Do you care? Probably not, most areas don't do detailed safety inspections of older cars. Can that change? Sure. I'm tall enough that I have problems with quite a few cars and have moved a few driver's seats. I have always used the stock f
  4. I would guess it was a rebody - The M code 4 speed was probably wrecked / rusted beyond repair but had a good title - the 71 automatic convert was good but boring. Take a weekend and BAM! You now have an M code convertible. Why change the color from green to pastel blue? Who has ever changed over to a blue interior on purpose? Why get rid of a 4 speed? Especially on a low mileage car. If it is not a rebody then they did an outstanding job recreating a factory correct tired pastel blue paint job. LOL I have a 71 M Code Ram Air C6 Convertible / Numbers Matching / Marti Repor
  5. I actually have (have had for a long time, I think mine was one of the first ones produced) the same exhaust sitting in my garage waiting for me to get to it. I'm guessing I'll have to modify it to get it past the staggered shocks (or move the shock). I'm interested at what you have for the crossfire setup. That is my old username on a bunch of the f-body groups. I no longer have that car but have my crossfire setup that I'm saving for just the right project. I'd love to get an '82 corvette with it on it... as much as people hated that setup I think that there is some real cha
  6. Geoff, Helmholtz equations apply to all sorts of tuning situations in cars, but in this case it's a simple "if you want to make it sound lower you need to make the pipe longer or smaller in diameter. There is Helmholtz tuning in the case of header primaries and collectors, but typically a crossover in a dual exhaust or a good muffler is the end of the power tuning and anything after that is just trying to get it to sound like you want. Take a look at modern sports/muscle cars for good examples. Very few of them (really very few even not all that modern ones, going back to the 90's) gain
  7. Steering not returning is the front suspension not having enough caster or too much toe out (it should have a little toe in). Loose/worn out steering/suspension components can cause either of those. It could be a steering box problem but doubtful unless you've overtightened the preload (in other words not worn out, but the opposite), if you haven't messed with it it's doubtful.
  8. Flowmasters drone at that rpm. It's not just in these cars, it's not just this kind of exhaust configuration. It's a problem with the design. Flowmaster has tried a number of things to fix that over the years, the big thing was the deltaflow version of their mufflers, but nothing entirely eliminates it. If you like the sound of their 40 series mufflers (the basic "flowmaster") and if you want your best chance of getting rid of the drone then try the super 44 with deltaflow. Those usually sound pretty good and don't drone on most cars. That said, flowmasters are not the performance m
  9. Absolutely and incredible job! I know how to do most of this work and I'm still impressed enough that I keep thinking about talking to you about sending my '71 Mach 1 up to you (originally an Arizona car, it's been in a garage or under a car cover since the late 80's, the body is in pretty good shape rust wise but missing a few parts and most of the interior is junk, but that's a separate problem), but I'm pretty sure I couldn't afford you. How many hours do you think you'll have in it by the time you're done? You said you're at 400 now, and based on that I probably couldn't afford me
  10. Huh, interesting... are they removable once installed? FWIW, going through the reviews I saw this one: 2.0 out of 5 starsNot ok for older cars. ByWoodson April 16, 2016 Verified Purchase It really didn't fit my '66 Mustang because my mustang had a larger fuel intake hose. I really wish they would warn you that it wouldn't help for classic cars.
  11. That's turning out looking incredible! I'm pretty sure you've said it before but I can't find it, what kind of paint are you using?
  12. Because the car is an original 4bbl Mach 1. To me it feels like a windsor is just half assing it. Going completely different engine family is "I decided to experiment with something else." I've owned a bunch of later model f-bodies, and those specifically in my mind follow the sheep following... deal, any f-body really. Everyone LS swaps them and there are plenty of good choices that will accomplish the same thing without LS swapping them. With the original Cleveland engine in these cars there aren't as many good parts choices out there if you want to build something
  13. It's funny, I know and have heard all the "you'll sand gooves into your bodywork if you don't use a block," but to be honest, sometimes i do, sometimes I don't and I've never had a problem... reading your post it became clear that instinctively I do what you just outlined there.
  14. You know, I belong to a few groups that "LS swap" everything, and it annoys the heck out of me for some reason. Like I have a few 3rd gen f-body (camaro/firebired, originally came with chevy V8's in it), and I'm not sure why an LS swap in those bothers me. OTOH, I have seriously considered an LS swap in my '71 Mach 1 and it doesn't bother me as much. If I did it I would make it all bolt in (I've done a few swaps like that, the one that was the biggest hassle to build mounts was a Cadillac 500 in a '67 Lemans, the mounts were almost 8" off the original Poncho mount location and the blo
  15. As far as what to do to make these work well with wider tires, here is something that I did with some firebird rims: The original rim was a 15x7 (in the middle of the second pic), I sectioned all 4 with different back sections cut off and put them back together swapping them around so I got a 15x9.5 and 15x4.5 (perfect for drag tires). In this case I would cut the back hoops and find a donor rim to get a new back half widening it and increasing the backspacing and offset, but how much would depend on what the current rim's offset is.

About Us

7173Mustangs.com is a community forum designed especially for fans and owners of the 1971, 1972 and 1973 Ford Mustang! We are not affiliated with Ford Motor Company in any way.


Site Info

July 2010

Webfinity Design

Latrobe, PA

  • Create New...