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Wolverine

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Everything posted by Wolverine

  1. Okay. I am sick of you guys sending me emails on a weekly basis begging on your hands and knees for me to come back....or maybe that isn't what you were begging for. But I don't go that way...anymore. So, I am back...with a vengeance. For those of you who don't know me, you will find me to be the most interesting man on this website. Lux is a close second, but only because he does cool burnouts. Otherwise, he would be lumped in with the rest of you guys. I seek TRUTH, JUSTICE and the AMERICAN WAY. Not like that punk Superman. My goal is to build my motor per 1971 Boss 351 Specs. I will also need to swap out the 2.75 axle. I will then do everything I can to blow up the transmission C6 (or C4...who cares) so my wife will let me buy a new 5 speed....It's the least she can do considering all of the new kitchen utensils I am going to have to replace for her during this rebuild. This will be placed in a 1973 Convertible. I expect to have it wrapped in flat red. Screw the $5k-$10k paint job. Missed you guys. James
  2. How would ANYONE remember my posting of this brochure. What kind of beer do you drink? Must be some holy water in there. I went through all my attachments and didn't find it. Looking through my drives as well.
  3. I thought someone had posted a video/photo of the venerable 351C two piece rear main seal install. Didn't come across one in the search. Perhaps someone can enlighten me in this regard. Outside of that, I believe the key is to: 0. I guess most people like to spend $30 for a pair of seals.... http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cgt-c5689 because the ones in the kit are crap...I guess.... Are they really crap? Do I really have to spend $30 for .05 oz of VITON???? No, I am not remachining my block for a one piece seal. What is that, like $50 to machine + the one piece seal cost. Is it really that hard to keep the oil from leaking out the rear? I mean, I don't want oil leaking like everyone else, but come on. 1. Offset the seals so the ends or not fully covered by the seat by like 1/8-1/4 of an inch. 2. Dab some RTV onto the ends of the seal- 2 top, 2 bottom, 4 total. (Not sure which RTV to use(red, blue, black, gray, high temp, blah blah blah: http://www.permatex.com/products-2/product-categories/gasketing/gasket-makers ugh.) 3. Say a Hail Mary...respectfully mind you. 4. Align and mash. 5. When you realize you didn't carefully match the offset ends of the 2 piece seal, remove $30 seals, and install the second set you bought because you were smart enough to know you would be stupid enough to not carefully match the offset ends the first time around.
  4. Wow...she even has the 7173mustangs.com on her windshield....THANK YOU ELIZABETH.
  5. Wolverine

    new

    It's a lot easier if you find a wife who ALREADY has a Mach 1...or a convertible. Ask me how I know.
  6. And, think of all the extra carbon footprint you will be creating: 1. All the CO2 generated to: 1. Pull that 35-40 pounds of copper out of the ground. 2. Smelt...just the word smelt makes me think of the ocean rising 6". 3. The cable insulation, a heavy FOSSIL FUEL component. 4. Delivery to the store. 5. Your drive to the store, or the store's drive to you. 6. The multiple gallons of extra gasoline you will be using for carrying around an extra 1% of bottom anchor weight. Kind of makes me want to move my LEAD acid battery.
  7. From what I can see, you used Gatorade as the primer, and then what appears to be a 7up for the final finish. Perhaps the issue I always have is I am actually trying to use spray paint. Can you confirm/deny my allegations, and correct any misgivings I may have misgotten in this regard? Or, if it is just easier for you, I can send you my air cleaner. It is not nearly as needy as yours was. And I can even include the Gatorade and the 7up...I would add a Dos Equis but sending alcohol through the US parcel system is a violation of federal law....although if you bring it in when you cross the border illegally, I understand you get a free college education....and you guys complain I can't stay on topic.
  8. First, because the FREEZE PLUG kit I bought for my 351C build had a 2 5/32 plug in it for the rear cam/expansion plug, and the size of the hole in my block is 2 1/4, I am assuming there are two different sizes of expansion plugs for this application. This question is for the 2 1/4 application. Which way does the expansion plug go in? Does the LIP side go in first(unlike all the other freeze plugs) and get pressed/hammered in until it seats? Or, does it go in as all the other freeze plugs, until it is flush with the block surface? Thank you for your support, as always.
  9. DING DING DING DING DING DING DING DING DING. Now, the question is, how did YOU come about knowing the answer? For myself, prior to attempting to start building my engine I measured EVERYTHING, including ALL the expansion plugs and appropriate holes EXCEPT FOR THE CAM PLUG hole. So, after dropping the 2 5/32 plug in the hole, and pounding and pounding and pounding, I am thinking, why is this not staying in? So I remove the plug, see the damage I did to the rear cam bearing, and thing what an interesting way to start an engine build. Thank you for participating.....I am sure I will have more of 351C Jeopardy in the near future....
  10. My comment in regards to timing and dwell: 1. Refer here: http://diyford.com/ford-351-cleveland-engine-ignition-guide-timing/ 2 things of concern 1. The bouncing would be of concern to me. 2. I will try to find the mechanical advance curve for your car, but it seems to me the mechanical advance should advance the timing 10 degrees by 1800 RPM. No advance to me is an issue. And, you should confirm(fairly easy) that when your timing mark is at TDC that your piston is at TDC as well. I think that would remove all doubt about a harmonic balancer issue.
  11. I am a vital component on a 351C block, and can be either 2 5/32 in diameter or 2 1/2 in diameter. (Actually, I think it was a 2 1/4" ....sorry about that). And when you buy your "aftermarket" parts kit, the kit will not have the component in the size for your build. What am I????? And remember, this is for a 351C block, nothing to do with human anatomy...although rephrased properly, it could be.
  12. Hi Mike, There is a lot of intelligence in what you say....which is probably why I disagree on a couple of points. Well, the 2 barrel heads will not pull nearly as fast. Been there. Done That. And, your right. The Boss 351 can have all the correct parts numbers...except for the block, the heads, the crankshaft with the dimple, the connecting rods, the intake and exhaust manifolds.... I respectfully disagree in regards to engine builders with limited experience, like me, who try to put on AFTERMARKET carb, Heads, or HEADERS or a DISTRIBUTOR to name a few. And all of the problems we have with how things fit, how things have to be tuned, when they break we can no longer get parts, etc. With real parts, I know how my car SHOULD run, how to set the timing, how to set the distributor, what kind of vacuum to expect, etc. Even with AFTERMARKET FASTENERS, such as HEAD or MAIN BOLTS, you have to use THEIR torque settings. What is up with that? Well...this is true, except the only way my wife is going to let me swap out the C4 auto for a 5 speed Getrag is to have the C4 blow up on the 91, or in front of my house. Yes I will need to replace....thank God!!!! And I will share all this with my good 7173 friends...and the majority of other users on this site!!!
  13. Have you checked the timing at various RPM's and VACUUM to make sure the centrifugal and vacuum advance are working? Sorry, don't know the advance specs off of the top of my head, but there are specs regarding timing based on RPM and vacuum. If you need them, give me a holler and I will go dig them up. Not sure of your expertise, but remove/plug vacuum at distributor and record timing at idle and every 250+ RPM up to your 2500. Then, you can hook up a vacuum pump to your distributor and see how the timing advances based on the vacuum you pull. Vacuum advance is notorious for going bad. Usually the diaphragm leaks and you lose all vacuum advance. Next up....vacuum leak test. Method 1 - Take off your fan belt and then light up a big fat stogey...or light up a stogey and take off your fan belt. Start your engine and blow smoke around your intake to see if you have any air being sucked in. Helps to choke the carb so you get higher vacuum pull. Method 2, get starter fluid and spray it around your intake. Next up...compression test. Might as well put in new plugs if you haven't done so already. If you don't have a kit, make sure you buy one with a small plug fitting and 2 or 3 foot vacuum extension. Is your perception the vibration is due to a MISS or due to perhaps an IMBALANCE? Is it a fairly consistent vibration? Best of luck to you sir. Hate a bucking Mustang...and I did say bucking... ..as in Buckeye.
  14. I used to run 2500 on the freeway, 15k a year. I never had an issue with it, but I ran stock exhaust.
  15. Wow...I never even thought of Boss paint....but, since you asked(I don't think I am going to live long enough for the paint to dry...)(from our friends at http://www.boss351registry.com/FAQ-1.htm) What parts under the hood are usually painted gray ? [This color is commonly called "slop gray" or "batch gray paint". It can be obtained at finer auto parts stores or a close facsimile. Like in 1970, Dearborn built cars received this color on certain parts under the hood. 1) Export Braces: Part numbers D1ZZ-16A052-ARH and D1ZZ-16A0532H. 2) Hood Latch Brace: D1ZZ-16707. 3) Headlight Housing Supports: D1ZZ-13BU65-B and D1ZZ-13B065-A. 4) Front License Plate Bracket. 5) Front Suspension bumper brackets D1ZZ-13BU65-A D1ZZ-13B065-B. 6) Support braces (Front fender to apron) D1ZZ-3382-B D1ZZ-3383-C.] 7) The upper shock mount cap were phosphate and oil coated. Thanks to Bob Perkins Back to Top What are the correct color codes for the driveshaft and coil springs? [First: The correct color codes are violet, red and yellow. They are located near the center of the drive shaft with violet near the transmission and yellow toward the rear end. Second: Front springs: one gold stripe and one white strip on each of the coils. The front shock has one white paint daub and the rears have one orange paint daub each.] What are the correct part numbers, color and paint codes for the shocks? [Original engineering part numbers for the '71 Boss 351 shocks are D!ZF-18045-BB for the front and DOZF-180-B1 for the rear. The shocks are painted semi gloss black, with one orange paint daub on the rear shocks and a white daub on the fronts.] Thanks to Bob Perkins 1/2007 Paint codes for the Magnum 500's? [The correct paint code for the D10Z-1007 Magnum 500 is two orange daubs. The A9ZZ-1007-D magnum used on the '71 Mustang before April 2, 1971 had two white daubs on the back of the wheel. Both daubs were located on the very outside of the rim directly across from each other (opposite sides)] Thanks to Bob Perkins 1/2007 Back to Top Special Paint Side Mirrors? [if a '70 or '71 Boss Mustang was ordered with paint that wasn't a standard Mustang color, it received the single chrome mirror on the driver's door. If the special paint was a Mustang color but not a Boss color, the car could have come with either the single chrome mirror or the color-keyed racing mirrors depending on the factory inventory of painted mirrors. The color-keyed mirrors were painted by the mirror vendor prior to mirror assembly, which prevented the use of special-paint mirrors.] Thanks to Bob Perkins 5/2006
  16. In my humble opinion, buy the battery that WEIGHS the most.
  17. I always wondered if the electric choke got 12 volts in both the start and ignition mode. I believe the choke got it's voltage from the alternator...and the alternator is turning . Maybe someone with an electric choke can take a quick read.
  18. Wow...someone asking me a question. Must be a new member!!! REAL BOSS PARTS- Mostly not. As you stated, we have better pistons, better ignition, etc. Why wouldn't I take advantage of that? Now I feel like a liar.... Everything after this is blah blah blah. My good friends here knows how "picky" I am about correctness. These same people also know how stupid I am...and it is stupid to try to build a 351 Boss motor for a daily driver. That being said, I will be posting all my parts, all the markings, every nut, bolt, washer with dimensions and weight. People can judge for themselves. I am not having my parts tested for hardness, which is the only way to tell on some of these parts. In some circumstances, will I be "upgrading"? Absolutely. Rods/Crank/Cam As far as I know, my rods and crank match 351 Boss markings. But as I understand the situation, additional work/hardening/etc. was done to assure they would meet certain performance levels. Can I prove mine went under this scrutiny? I can't prove it and in all likelihood they did not. But, I suspect under the circumstances I will be running them, no one will be able to tell the difference. Lifters/Rockers To hell with solid lifters. Roller rockers? Maybe. Under 5500 RPM where I will be running, who will know? Except those who have an ear for the CLANG CLANG CLANG CLANG CLANG or DING DING DING DING DING of a solid lifter? Ignition And I certainly will not be using the piece of crap mechanical points, let alone dual mechanical points, mostly because the point manufacturers make crap. HEI for me. Pistons Now, where am I going to get .030 over Boss pistons? Carburation Will I have a true Boss Holley Carb? Maybe. I am actually looking for the Holley aftermarket to go with my aftermarket intake. Got one to spare? This is probably a stupid choice on my part as the aftermarkets were meant more for the track then the street(at least that is what the propaganda says). Although some contend the aftermarket carb was intended to correct all the pitfalls of the production model. Who knows? Where is the guy who made that decision anyway? Got to be here somewhere. Exhaust I have stock manifolds with BOSS markings. However the manifolds have not be opened up to the BOSS specs. Will I open them. No. Block My block is a 2 bolt main block. It could have been a 4 bolt for a Boss. Am I going to make it a 4 bolt. No. So, perhaps I have to take the 351 Boss labeling back....but what else would I call it? 351 Boss Clone....maybe that would be more appropriate. Don't want anyone's panties to get to tight.
  19. Wow... I forgot to start my tip sheet. Thanks Jeff!!! Tip #1...I will document thoroughly. Tip #2...I think I can tip over my engine stand to accomplish this without issue. Tip #3... Found this on SPEEDTALK FORUM: Re: Felpro 2902 Cleveland Rear Main Seal Postby b.guggenmos » Wed Feb 04, 2015 9:59 pm We figured this one out over on a different Forum. Cometic C5689 as well as SCE 23615. Same seals as the Fel Pro 2902. Brian Perhaps you will be able to confirm. All I can say, and I will say often, how can this be the 21st century and FELPRO, THE GASKET MONOPOLY THAT THEY ARE, can't get a reliable solution to a rear main bearing seal...or oil pan seal....on a motor that has been in operation for 45 years....they should be ashamed. And last...by LINE HONED/BORED... 0. My camshaft bearing were installed by the machinist and cut in the block to match the cam. 1. My crank was undercut .0010...I am pretty sure that is the number. 2. Undersize bearings installed. 3. My block was ALIGN HONED, I am thinking less then .0003 because my machinist indicated it was surprising straight to begin with. 4. So, what would not be concentric?
  20. Does this help? http://www.7173mustangs.com/attachment.php?aid=11538
  21. Here is my "goto" thread for the GT40 heads. http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/5-0l-tech/198384-gt40p-heads-351w.html
  22. Why does Europe have all of our money? How big of a suitcase did Luxstang leave the states with the last time he was here? And, IMHO, Ferrari's were pretty junky in the 60's and 70's. I guess that is why they sold 1M 65 Mustangs and maybe 10k Ferraris?
  23. With all the holidays you have, perhaps you should rename your country GREECE. I understand that country name is going to be available shortly.
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