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Wolverine

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Everything posted by Wolverine

  1. When you buy the timing light. you also need : 1, DWELL METER 2, VACUUM GAGE 3. White Out Pen The DWELL METER is needed to confirm your ignition is properly charging the coil. Vacuum gage is necessary to confirm you engine doesn't have any vacuum leaks. And, with a large duration/high lift cam, idle is going to be an issue due to the lack of vacuum being pulled at low idle. But, you need to start somewhere. Keep a book handy regarding these setting so in the future, if you have any problems, you know what your "starting" point was. Oh...and the white out lets you mark the timing/harmonic balancer pulley. You run a line from the front outer edge to the center of the pulley. This way if your rubber breaks free from the pulley and turns a couple of degrees, you will see it on the marks. Doesn't happen often, but when it does, you scratch your head for a few days.
  2. Amway Metal Polish. Really. Won't get any brighter white, guaranteed.
  3. On a 351C, there are hooks which are mounted to exhaust manifold studs. As a result, that is what I would use. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1970-1971-1972-1973-Mustang-351C-Engine-Lift-Hooks-nice-set-/200951416889?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ec9a34839&vxp=mtr As a matter of fact, I believe the 351C hooks will fit a 351W. Not sure about a 302.
  4. I always found Mustang Monthly to be wrong more often than me. Never knew an article to be complete.
  5. Gee Don...is that really the one you offered to me for $50? I wouldn't feel right giving you less then $75...and I'd have to pick up the shipping.
  6. +1 on timing and make sure the vacuum advance is working as well.
  7. Tough call. As a daily driver, I would drive the heck out of them. My only concern would be the condition of the foam. As a weekend drive, I would drive the heck out of them. Probably get another good 20 years out of them only sitting on them a couple of times a week. As a show car, I would recover with plastic. Enjoy them. Who ever gets them after you might just abuse them.
  8. D10F D= 197x 1= 1 Air cleaner is circa 1971. A little early for a 73, but probably not unheard of. Was your 1973 built early in production year, say 1972?
  9. To be clear, I have 351 Boss block and heads. I also have the Ford aftermarket aluminum manifold. So all that is missing is the aftermarket carb. Some advertise these parts as "Boss" aftermarket which is kind of misleading in my humble opinion. The manifold and carb would fit any 351 4V application. (I understand FIT does not necessarily mean RUN WELL). This model carb suits my vanity in having/building a 1971 351 Boss with aftermarket high performance Ford parts. Strictly "poser" status. And I appreciate the insight about this particular carburetor. I consider it overpriced by a factor of 3. But it is the first one I have come across. So now, at least I know what to look for. At the time I get my engine built to the carb level, if I am unable to find an aftermarket carb which meets my "value" level, I probably will go with a new carb.
  10. Me, brag???? I am at several disadvantages here. 1. I have wanted a carb such as this for a while. It matches up to my motor and manifold. 2. I am not a carburetor guy as I have only swapped one out, so I asked the questions to be careful. 3. I have an automatic now, but dream of a 5 speed OD in the future. 4. I am also torn as this isn't really a "daily driver" kind of a carb, and my car will be a daily driver. 5. I agree it is too much money. But, at least now I am prepared with the information I need for the next one I see.
  11. So: 1. Dealing with 73 Mustang, non convertible. 2. Terms: Perch is mounted to the chassis. Mount is on the motor. You mention a bracket, but I think you mean perch. Pin- This is the very special, hard, long bolt that runs from front to back and joins the perch to the mount. (Any sources for this piece?) 3. Difference between OEM mount and REPO mount is the OEM is one piece. Repo is 2 pieces bolted together. (Anyone got a welder?) 4. 1972 REPO mount "pin" holes do not line up with1973 OEM perch holes. 5. 1972 Repo Motor Mount and Perch can be replace 1973 Motor Mount and Perch. The engine will sit slightly lower, as the perch is shorter. Could probably shim the engine up. You already have 4 bolts holding the mount together. What would be wrong with a few shims? Although you would need longer bolts...good luck with that. Did I get this right?
  12. FWIW My 73 convertible was born with the I6. It now has a 302 installed by my father in law. He has no recollection of EVER replacing a motor mount in any of his cars ever....on the other hand, Don of OMS says they are not close....go with Don.
  13. Great topic totalled...great pictures as well. I read through the post a couple of times, and understand we need to be cautious when replacing motor mounts.
  14. Very well done gentlemen. May I ask where was Miss June and Miss July? Did we Miss Them?
  15. I have an interest in purchasing this model carb, http://www.ebay.com/itm/1970-1971-FORD-MUSTANG-BOSS-302-351-HOLLEY-CARBURETOR-6129-D1ZF-9510-VA-CARB-/200945992991?ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:US:3160 but being a newbie do not know how to discern the following: 1. I do see this is a hot air choke. I think I got this correct. 2. I do see a vacuum pod behind the choke. Is this for vacuum secondaries? If so, where is the vacuum stem? 3. Unfamiliar with the difference between a carb made for an automatic and one made for a manual. Can anyone tell me which trans this carb goes with. Muchos Gracias
  16. I'll take that 3.25 of of your hands if you ever get the gear you want.
  17. In addition to the motor, worry about the stall converter and the rear end. A 1500 stall with a 2.75 cam won't get you out of the hole, but it will get you moving after 2500 RPM. Doc can tell you how much his car woke up off the line with his 3.50.
  18. Tops are tough. It's not like anyone does a 73 Mustang top once a week. I don't know anyone here who enjoyed the job. The key is there is a front tack pad. You want to make sure you get one of those. The one on my car was wood, and after 30+ years, was long gone. And regarding the rear window, I thought the window was separate from the top. I for one never thought a plastic rear looked good. Spend all that money to assure you have a wrinkle free, tight fitting upper half and then finish it off with a flabby piece of plastic. Not even Pam went with plastic on the rear end.
  19. Misnomer in my opinion. Why spend the $$$ to hype up a 302 to 1hp/ci when you can more easily and reliably get .88 HP/CI aka 300 hp with a 351 doing a lot less hyping?
  20. Do they have pubs in Italy? I think you mean Barrista. And, no I didn't forget the e. You guys are nasty.
  21. I am sure my first car is scattered all over the roads of Michigan in the form of dehydrated iron(III)hydroxide. Kids.
  22. 73 Mustang Convertible 40 Years 70 XR7 43 Years 91 Cad 22 Years 93 Stealth 20 Years 125 Years 31.6666 Year Average
  23. I would be glad to take the oil filler cap off your hands....
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