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71Rustang

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71Rustang last won the day on November 6

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About 71Rustang

  • Rank
    Mustangs are cool
  • Birthday 12/15/1980

Vehicle Info

  • My Car
    71 429 Mach1,76 F150 4x4,79 F350 Crew Cab, 64 Dodge A100,72 Chevelle

Location

  • Location
    Pennsylvania
  • Region
    Northeast

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  1. Hi again.I'm pretty much fighting with myself over if I should cut holes in the boxing plates to make the cowl drains functional. The thing is, I have come up with at least 5 or 6 different ways to have the drains work and the truth is I hate them all,no matter how much I make them look like they are supposed to be there.I still hate them.I'm a very details oriented person.Details matter and all of the small details for me add up to the big picture.And even though nobody will ever see the holes or the supports for that matter,if I put the holes in,it will bother me. So if I get a little water
  2. Here's the finished boxing pieces for the upper door to shock tower bracing. I just have to fit and weld to the car. I also am trying to figure how I going to deal with the cowl drains. Kar Kraft cut off the outer cowl panels on the 69/ 70 cars and just plated over the drains.......because race cars and water drains aren't important. But I would like to have a way for the water to get out.............I'll figure a nice clean solution out.
  3. Hello. I've been working all week on this and I finally have it. I will not be running a Monte Carlo bar because I don't want one,and it won't work with my set up anyway. So I am installing the "upper frame rail supports" as KK installed them on the 70s. I feel that they would have continued to due so on the 71s. For reference I have included a pic of a Bud Moore 70 Mustang.Since the 71s are rather different in the front end I used the 70 for reference and changed it for the 71 chassis. Now I just have to turn cardboard and tape into sheetmetal and welds...........
  4. No more bushings.Since the redesign of the Mustang made the front suspension better,it also made the front crossmember worse.I had thought about just cutting the whole thing out and throwing it away,but that would be the easy way out.I wanted to use it so this is what I came up with. The factory bushing mounts are just pressed in with 2 halves,swagged together then spotted to the crossmember. So I elected to just get rid of both of them and hole sawed a 3 1/2'' hole in both sides.Then I made two 1/4'' thick mounting rings to weld the bearing housings to. The point of those was to strengthen th
  5. Hi all.i finished welding all the interior structural panels together. That's pretty much it for that. The car is still straight and the doors still shut ,so we will call that a win.Next I will figure out how to install the monoball bearings into the front crossmember for the strut rods.The bearings take the place of the stock bushings.But once again these Mustangs are different than the earlier cars and the bushing mounts are rather different.The older cars have 3 layers of steel to bore a bigger hole through and weld in the housing and room to work. These cars have a crossmember made of 14 g
  6. Know idea, you just keep going till it's done. Probably not as much as you would think
  7. Hello again. More chassis seam welding. I'm done welding seams solid. Now all of the rest of them get skip welded. I'm done all of the seams on the front of the car and the tub. The last bit I have to do on the inside will be the B pillers to the inner quarters and the wheel houses to the inner quarters
  8. Finished welding all of the underbody seams with the exception of the drivers staggered shock mount. I will weld that in or modify it as needed when I build the watts link. I am not convinced that I won't have a clearance issue. Or maybe I will reverse the watts cross bar locations and it will be fine. I'll figure that out when I get there.
  9. That's why I had to go to the junk yard in the first place. The standard practice for doing brakes on the front of a 60s or 70s Ford is to replace the 2 piece with a 1 piece rotor,and chuck the factory stuff.I don't think I have ever owned a Ford with original disc brake hubs still on it.The hubs were only 12 bucks a piece.....................Minilite, makes Minilite wheels.They are made in England.I do think that they owned by a bigger company though.This is what they used back in 69,70,71......ect on the Boss TA cars,Cameros,Javelins ect...........
  10. Hi.Yes the chassis is super rigid. Yes you can tell that it is way stiffer than before.The doors even sound different when you close them.The car will also be getting a cage. I know you can get drum hubs new,but was not aware of any disc hubs being produced since most if not all of the disc kits are for drum brake cars,the spindles are easier to adapt brackets to.The rotors mount to the back of the hub just as normally,but I will be using 3 inch studs.
  11. I have Minilites ,fronts are 15x8 and the rears are 15x10 both with a 5x4 1/2'' bolt pattern.I elected not to do the Lincoln hub and rotor with the 5x5 pattern.So I am going to use the stock 71 disc brake hubs which I had to go find in my local junkyard. For rotors I will be using 68 T-Bird rotors which are 12x1.25 the same size as the Lincoln rotors.I pulled a rusty set just for mock up. The rest is just more chassis welding,which will soon be coming to an end under the car.I also removed the front gas tank mount.That is where the Watts link crossmember is going and the car is getting a
  12. Here's the other side number B.This one went a little easier,but still took the same amount of time.I'm not going to finish all of the welds flush. I was just going to run over them all with a 36 grit disc to knock off all the high and sharp spots,just to smooth out all the welds and see how I like it. The whole interior is going to be painted with Zolatone ,probably the black with grey and white spatter.
  13. You know SCCA did not allow dry sumps until the 71 season.Before that the Bud Moore cars used a huge widened baffled pan with 2 pick up tubes.One on the oil pump and the other on a scavenge pump so the oil didn't pile up in the corners.Cleveland oiling systems in stock form aren't very good. why not do a Windsor based Clevor?
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