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71Rustang

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71Rustang last won the day on September 17

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About 71Rustang

  • Rank
    Mustangs are cool
  • Birthday 12/15/1980

Vehicle Info

  • Vehicle(s)
    71 429 Mach1,76 F150 4x4,79 F350 Crew Cab, 64 Dodge A100,72 Chevelle

Location

  • Location
    Pennsylvania
  • Region
    Northeast

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  1. Hello once again.I figured this was a worth look. I got in most of the rest of my front suspension.This stuff is from Opentracker.A roller idler arm,roller spring perches,tie rod adjusters, LCA boxing plates and on the bottom are the monoballs for the LCAs.The rest of the pics are 4 days of welding on the front end.I am fully welding all of the lower frame rail seams nose to tail on the whole car,torque boxes and any and all structural and suspension points. Evey thing else will be skip welded every 2 inches.Just now waiting for the hiem joints for the sway bar links, then I can build the lowe
  2. Me again.Who here has ever thought about adding the Trans Am shock tower braces to your car? It wasn't easy. Since nobody makes them like for 64 through 70,I went ahead and made a set.They are 1/8" and installed at a 45 degree angle from midway vertically on the factory internal brace to the top of the frame.Not to bad to weld in,accept for welding inside the bottom of the tower pocket to the frame,that sucked. I ended up cutting a 1/4 inch slice in the side of the frame to access the bottom of the brace and the top of the frame.I welded those together through the slice then welded the top of
  3. Here ya go................Its not that hard of a process. But it is very labor intensive. I started the cut at the cowl just above the hood hinge bolt and went straight to the rad support.Then cutting again from where I started gently angle the cut down till it was at the top of the shock tower,about 9/16 or 5/8 of an inch.Then from the front of the tower is a progressively steeper pie cut to the rad support. The radiator support I sectioned two inches out of,reinstalled then bring down the top of the aprons gently check heights and width and weld.the pic of the pie cut is only at 1 1/4 inches
  4. Some nice cars you have there.I will be running a Boss 429. These are the only Mustangs that they are a bolt in.I like Clevelands a lot and I also have all the parts to build a Boss 302,But I want a Boss 429. As for the nose droop I wanted to do it.I think these cars need it anyway. The car looks better,sharper and more aggressive. Most people wouldn't know unless you parked it next to a stock one.The worst part was sectioning the bumper brackets.In the pics you see I didn't have to modify the fenders one bit. The fit and finish of the car will be equal to Kar Kraft car at the time,so nice but
  5. Hi again,here is a couple more progress pics. Reworked and boxed Moog upper control arms,and installed rear springs.The front of the springs use a 5/8 mono ball and the rear use a sleeve with stock rubber bushings. The leafs are new from Eaton Detroit Spring.They built all of the KK Trans Am springs originally and still have all the blue prints. They are 1 3/4 wide 210lb.This is the Bud Moore set up,which will require me to build and install a Watts link....................
  6. I am building a 71 Mach 1 into a Trans Am car.I'm building the car as if it have been built by Kar Kraft had Ford not canceled the program.I am however taking some creative liberties in doing so. The car is a 429cj,4 speed.Going to run 8" Minilites in front with 10s in the rear.Just installed 210lb 1 3/4 leafs in today with monoballs.........................
  7. Hi,it has bin a while since I have posted.My Mach 1 project is now again front and center.I have a question.I installed new floor pans about 3 years ago and I can't find the paper with location of the e-brake cable bracket that attaches to the pass floor somewhere around the frame rail and the trans crossmember.Does anyone know where exactly where it gets welded to the floor
  8. Hello all,I just read the new door thread and it still left me wondering how nice they are value/money.Both of my doors have had work done in the past and many,many layers of paint and have major issues on the bottoms,broken inner frames and rot with horrible body work at the 4 bottom corners.Now, I can fix this but I really don't want to,but I will if I have to. I am happy so far with all of the repo metal in the car including the full pass quarter.Does any one here have any dealings withe the new repo doors?CJs is 70 miles from me and has them in stock,just a short drive and some money,bo
  9. Hello everyone. Before I pull the trigger at the end of this week and buy a set off of ebay.Does anybody have a set of 429 PI exhaust manifolds to sell?I am going for factory look and performance with 71 Mach1.Will be daily driven street car,no headers,headers suck. Chris
  10. What did you use for filler between the roof and the quarter? Chris
  11. Hello,it has been a while.Next week I will be driving to CJspony parts to get all of the sheet metal for my Mach1. I have a full pass quarter panel ordered.When I replace the panel what is the best product to fill in the joint between the roof and the quarter? Besides lead. Chris
  12. Hello all,thank you all for opinions,the holley street avenger 770 looks like it will be the one.It just looks like I will have to buy a different primary bowl that has the fuel inlet on the drivers side and make the fuel transfer tube on the pass side.Just wish it wasn't shiny. Chris
  13. Hello,I just installed a 429scj intake on my 460 thunder jet and HM reproduction hydraulic cj cam.I don't have a carb yet and I refuse to 1,000$ for a rebuilt,reman,original,ect... 780.So what would be a good replacment for the factory Holley? I am working on making the engine and car as close to a factory BB,4 spd install as possible,fuel hook ups,choke,ect.... The car will be my new daily driver and I mean driven every where ina ll weather accept snow. Chris

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Founded:
July 2010

By:
Webfinity Design

From:
Latrobe, PA

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