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71Rustang last won the day on September 25

71Rustang had the most liked content!

About 71Rustang

  • Birthday 12/15/1980

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    71 429 Mach1,76 F150 4x4,79 F350 Crew Cab, 64 Dodge A100


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  1. Hello,I'm still at it.I'm currently working on the outer wheel house filler panels. I have the drivers side fit tight to the quarter and tacked in. Now to do the passenger side then to weld them in. I also made the front and rear flares even larger to better fit the larger wheels.The fronts are done and just have to be edged and I'm working on the rear.The rears also need to be edged.
  2. Hi again everybody,it's been a little while.Sometimes progress is just slow. But I have the new wheels on the car and it's perfect. They are Trans Am Race Engineering,Superlites.........all 4 are exactly the same size at 15x10, 4 inches of backspace.I may have to go one size wider on the front tires,but the 600x15s will work fine for now.I haven't changed the flares on the car.I don't really have to make major changes to them ,just tweek them for a bit more turing clearance in the front and hammer more curve into them in the rear. I do however have to trim the rear of the front valance by 1/2''. So now I can continue working on finishing the flares and moving on.
  3. All the ball joints are Moog,so they should do ok.The TA cars did run an adjustable Moog lower ball joint which is no longer available.It had a threaded adjuster on the bottom so you could take out slack. So when ever I wear out the lowers I have found Howe and I think another place makes an adjustable ball joint that I can fit into the lower arm.
  4. Just a quick update.......I received my test wheel from Trans Am Race Engineering and have it test fitted to the car. It's a 15x10 Superlite with 4 inches of backspacing. From the edge of the front wheel to the edge of the flare is 1 1/2 inches. The same spec wheel will also be used on the rear so all 4 wheels will be the same. So next I will be boxing the wheel back up,sending it back and discussing the finer points of the wheels with TARE,and have a set of 4 made. Then fit with my tires and tweek and modify the flares to fit .
  5. Also take out the glove box and maybe even the heater box if you suspect the cowl is leaking to check........
  6. Here it is outside again.....flares aren't done yet,but we're workin on it. The rears really did balance out the fronts.But it still needs wider front wheels. Probably 10s in the front and new rears with 4.25" backspace,same wheels all 4 corners.
  7. Thank you.......Just basic body hammers,dollies and technique. As long as you can see things that aren't there, just keep swinging the hammer until you see it. It's only metal.
  8. Here's the car with a 10'' wide wheel with 4'' of backspace on the front. The flare is still wider buy a little over an inch.Now mind you the wheel arches did bow out a bit due to the nose drop and bending the fenders down,but still lots of room stock as well.
  9. Thanks.There was a point when I was installing the Watts box,that I thought to myself,now she's a TA. After finishing hammering out the last flare and looked down the side and thought,now......now it really is a TA Mustang. Are you looking at welding on premade flares,glass flares,build your own and weld them on,or doing a milder version of what I did? Just buy rolling out and flattening the lip they gained an 1 1/2'' There are multiple ways. The way I built mine is the way Kar Kraft and Bud Moore built them.
  10. Here's the passenger rear flare shaped to its final size. Next I will be blending the flares where they meet the rockers into the body. Then making the new filler panels for the outer wheel house to quarter panel.
  11. Hi,it's picture time again.You have to be a certain kind of person to take hammers and start hitting 1200$ worth of new sheet metal you just bought and installed.............looks like I am that sort of person.LOL I have been working on the fender flares and now have a really good handle on them and have even created a new sort of problem ,but not really for myself.You see I only really have 2 cars as a visual reference to look to when I am building mine,the Tope and the Hinchcliff Mustangs.I now realize that those cars indeed had 10 inch wide wheels on the front when they were built. I went with the 8s in the front because I knew that they would fit.But after flaring the front just like the Tope car I realized that the amount of room in the front fenders is huge.The 8s would work just fine ,but visually look a bit off.I could have used 8s front and rear and not flared anything,but where is the fun in that.TA cars have flares.So far the fronts are shaped and the drivers rear is shaped,I still have to do the pass rear.I also have included a pic of a 10 inch wheel with 4'' of backspace on the front to prove my point and a pic of Ed Hinchcliffs car,those are 10s in front.Looks like I'm going with a new set of wheels with 10s in the front,but not Minilites,they were to much of a pain in the butt to get.This time I'm going with the TA Race Engineering Superlites.And now the AMX gets a new set of wheels.
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