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71Rustang

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71Rustang last won the day on November 6 2020

71Rustang had the most liked content!

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About 71Rustang

  • Rank
    Mustangs are cool
  • Birthday 12/15/1980

Vehicle Info

  • My Car
    71 429 Mach1,76 F150 4x4,79 F350 Crew Cab, 64 Dodge A100,72 Chevelle

Location

  • Location
    Pennsylvania
  • Region
    Northeast

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  1. Hello,while I'm waiting on parts,new rear axle housing, bearings to rebuild the center section and install the locker,I finally finished the ends of the rockers. I had thought about running the wheel flares to the bottom of the rockers. A while ago I decided to build the flares just as KK would have. Just large enough to cover the top of the tire. And tall enough to have the tire go up in body without hitting anything. So I finished the rocker ends back to factory.
  2. Hi.............another quick update.I have been talking with Borgeson steering.I took apart the manual box I have and sent them pictures of the parts.To which the person confirmed that the internals are indeed Saginaw parts.The box is a Ford copy of a Saginaw 525 box.They will sell me a new worm rack assembly to convert the box to 16:1 with no modifications needed. But they are currently out of stock on them,but are right now in process of producing more and will be available in 8 to 10 weeks.
  3. Hello.I don't know if anybody here has ever seen this.I found this on the good old interweb.It's about taking Vette steering box parts and with a couple modifications you can put them into the Ford manual box for a 16:1 ratio.Which is the ratio that where in the 69/70 TA boxes.I did check out the part numbers and they are legit,actually you can by kits with all the parts in them to rebuild a Vette box.I also believe that KK would have figured this out and used it.This is the new steering box plan.
  4. Hi,a quick update. I ordered the rear end today. A 61" wide full floating Coleman 9 inch. So in the next coming weeks and months there will be the building of traction bar links,pinion angle setting,Watts link engineering and general car building mayhem to come.
  5. As far as I know, there aren't any longer pitman arms available,not saying that something, some where from another Ford wouldn't work. But I think I may have found some info about using a Vette sector shaft and worm assembly. I'm also sending emails to rebuilders to see if it is possible. ..
  6. Anybody need any slightly bent emergency brake brackets. The only bracket that is left on the car is for the pinion bumper.I am debating about take that one off also.
  7. Hi,y'all. It's been a little while.I finally have come to the decision that I will be using the stock rear end width of 61". The rear is going to be a Coleman 9 inch floater.I have also removed all evidence of the e-brake system. I do have a question for y'all. Is it possible to convert a manual steering box to a quicker ratio? I'm looking at getting one so I can move the car around in the future. Less mess. Than a power box. And I got to wondering,can I make the 24:1 box more racy go fast,say 16:1 or lower?
  8. Hello.Finally got some mock up tires and got them mounted. Goodyear Blue Streaks, fronts are 600x15 and 800x15 rear which in metric is a 265 50 15 and a 295 50 15. Now I am mocking them up in body to figure out how wide the rear is going to be. A 60'' wide rear puts the bulge of the tire even with the factory lip and the other width I like is 59''. The 1/2''makes a huge difference I found and I do like it both ways. How close to the body height wise doesn't matter. The top of the tires are going to be right up against the top of the lip at ride height. I'm going to flare the quarters anyway..
  9. Hi.Well........It's all up to how crazy you would like to get.If it were me and I had a car like yours I would most certainly weld the seems of the frame rails from the torque box to the radiator support. Then the outer shock towers to the fender aprons to start.Also do the radiator support to the front fender aprons and the rear aprons to the fire wall.All of this will insure making the front box of the car way more rigid and a much better foundation to mount the suspension.I did make an amendment to my lower shock tower braces. The vertical outer flange where the top frame flange is spot wel
  10. Here's a quick one.You don't even have to be building a TA car to do this either.I have installed a 1/8'' square plate from the inner rocker to the outer leaf spring mount.Nothing jaw dropping but effective.
  11. Hi,glad you like the car.Your first query.The Mustang with the Australian steering box was Smokey Yunick's 69 Boss 302. I don't really know the reasoning behind him doing that other than the fact of,Smokey Yunick. The standard manual steering box (16:1)was fitted to the cars built by Kar Kraft.My car has the variable ratio box that comes with the competition suspension.But since none of that matters anyway ,I was still going to reuse it. The 800 series boxes are good steering boxes.I am either going to rebuild as is,or send it out to have it reconditioned with a 12:1 conversion.I'm not going t
  12. Hello again.I mini tubed the car for multiple reasons. Yes a 10'' wheel with a 295 does fit the stock wells and looks good, but..............My car is going to sit very low,and by low I mean oil pan maybe 2-3''s off the ground.Now in the rear I wanted the tires just about even with the flare on the body,which is fine for a stockish car. But with a very low rear suspension height once you start working the suspension tires with large flexible side walls start hitting things.Mustang wheel houses are very narrow in the front.So if you take a low riding car with a big tire and jack up, just on one
  13. Hi everyone. Well after a lot of research and work. My ,what do I think Kar Kraft would have done to install upper frame rails on a 71 Mustang is done. I Think they turned out very well. they extend 23 1/2'' out from the front of the cowl plates and are 1 1/2'' tall at the very front. They are fully welded and sealed at both ends.They are also fully boxed at the spring pocket................................Next.
  14. Hi,here's what I decided to do about the cowl drains. I blocked of the large half round openings. I then welded all of the seams of the cowl extension to the apron making it water tight. I made filler pieces for the top of the extension and at the bottom where it is cut out for the front cowl channel runs through it. I reworked the ends of the front flange to allow any water to run off. Now water will not be able to get into the upper apron boxes when installed. As for water getting in the cowl. I will just deal with it. I'm not going to seal the top off as the vent hole on the drivers side
  15. Hi again.I'm pretty much fighting with myself over if I should cut holes in the boxing plates to make the cowl drains functional. The thing is, I have come up with at least 5 or 6 different ways to have the drains work and the truth is I hate them all,no matter how much I make them look like they are supposed to be there.I still hate them.I'm a very details oriented person.Details matter and all of the small details for me add up to the big picture.And even though nobody will ever see the holes or the supports for that matter,if I put the holes in,it will bother me. So if I get a little water
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