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Everything posted by 71Rustang

  1. You guys are just going to have to get used to me mentioning the AMX every once in a while,it's part of the family....LOL...................AND NOW,back to our regularly scheduled program.I've been working on this problem for about a month...ish.And yes while messing with the AMX it did hit me,and I knew what I was going to do.The stock suspension sits on the frame at full droop,so why not build mounts the bolt to the car,just up higher in the chassis to make up for the shorter spring.So here we are.The chassis brackets are short enough to allow the spring to to removed and installed. Then bolt on the stop brackets and done. They hold tension on the spring so it can't rotate in the seat or fall out of the car.Everything is made of 1/8'',with 5/16'' grade 8 fine thread bolts.I left my self enough material to install 2 more bolts per side and upgrade them to 3/8th if I wanted to.There is no deflection in the mounts and it works like it should and looks like it belongs on the car.
  2. Thanks......I have always loved Javelins. And well, I guess I have a type of car design that I'm really attracted to. The 71-3 Mustangs and the 2nd gen Javelins share many of the same proportions. Long hood,short deck, low roof, full width grill, long overbite front end. Not to mention the 4300 carburetor. And I love Trans Am cars.
  3. Hi.it's been a little while. A couple things.I did figure out how to keep the coil springs in the front of the car.I am currently working on those parts and of course will post pics when I am done. I took a little break from the car because the spring thing was driving me nuts. I'm one of those people that will work till the point of mental exhaustion to figure out a solution to a problem.But in the two weeks that I really didn't touch the car. I bought a 73 AMX,360, 4speed, Go Pack car,that's eventually going to become the street car my Mach1 was going to be.And while messing with the AMX I got over the mental block I had with the Mustang.So when I get the coil spring maker not falling outters installed I will be moving on to the wheel flares.So here is the AMX.I don't think anybody on here will mind one little ole pic of an AMC....................oh ya...........NO Trans Am mods to the AMX ,I promise.
  4. Hi.I'm glad ya'll like the car.I have an update..........having the worlds lowest 71 Mustang has just been a treat.LOL. You change one thing and then everything else doesn't work anymore.So I am systematically correcting all the problems associated with how low it is.So here is the latest fix.I notched the frame to have enough clearance for the strut rods.I like how it turned out. It looks like the notches belong there.Now on to the springs that fall out.................
  5. Hi every one.I decided just to throw the front end on to see how she looks and to see how I'm going to have to make plans to do the flares.As well as planning and figuring a bunch of other things,such as tow hooks,possibly moving the oil cooler from where they were on the 70s,how low the front spoiler is amongst other things.I'm staying with the Mach1 bumper as the bumper really isn't that heavy,it's the support that's got the weight to it,so that thing is going on a diet. The only place for tow hooks on the front is to weld them to the bumper brackets.And If I cant find a factory tie down for the rear I'm just going to copy one. I also have the manual box in it now,still the stock ratio.The power box is never going back in.It steers way to nice with a big block in it. Taking the day off,I'll be back at it tomorrow.
  6. Thank you....and yes it is. That's the biggest structure that I could fit with the septic system, road and creek and set backs the township wanted. I also built the wheelstander in there.
  7. Some motovation............. for if you think the long slog through your project is just taking forever.Just keep plugging away at it and I promise you'll get there.I've been staring at the car from a distance of 3 ft or less for a year.
  8. Hello,You know building a car is nothing but moving from one catastrophe to another.Well the front suspension is no different. We all love low cars. and mine will be ,well........ridiculously low,and so creates a whole new set of battles to win. First is the upper ball joint.The upper joint was almost maxed out of its travel with car sitting as it does,which will equal just broken ball joints right out of the box.There are 2 solutions.1 being to use a wedge kit for correction,which I did think about for almost a whole day.Or 2 Just cut the end of the control arm and then bend down at the flange that the ball joint bolts to down 20 degrees. I chose to cut and weld,which is let's be honest,usually my first go to anyway. The pics should show how I did it,Pretty simple really.If ya'll want a more detailed explanation of what is going on I can go into a lot more detail. Also try as I might,I just can't use the stock front upper shock mounts.I would have to cut a holes in the hood to make it work.So I modified a set of mounts from a 70 and will be using those.
  9. More progress. Today we have front brakes and sneak peek at what she's going to look like. The front brakes consist of 71 disc hubs,68 T-bird rotors,69 Lincoln 4 piston KH calipers,Street or Track Trans Am caliper brackets,with 3 inch ARP studs all hung on 70 drum spindles. the rotors are 12x1.25'',this is the largest brake set up you can put inside a 15 inch wheel.I am also sorting out the front suspension,as pictured the car is sitting on 9 1/2'' tall 1200lb coils.I'm trying to come up with a way to hold them in the car without using tethers.But if I can't come up with a simple solution,tethers it is. I have to notch the frame for the strut rod travel and do upper ball joint correction. Might do a wedge kit before I cut and reweld the ball joint at a different angle.I won't be using the stock shock mounts as they would go through the top of the hood. So I have a new set of stock 70 shocks coming so I can cut the tops of the make screw on mounts for the Koni's. Yes that is the ride height. There will also be very minimal flaring of the front fenders. Yes,It's rather extreme,but that's my style.This is the craziest Mustang that I could build.
  10. For the life of me I can't figure out why no after market company has come up with an actual bolt in one piece export brace for the 71-73 cars.So here is part one of me doing it.I cut the ends off the factory braces and made new ends out of 1/8''. Now they bolt under the shock bracket and spacer,just like the 64-70 one piece braces.I'm going to wait to build the connector at the firewall because I have not yet settled on 1 or 2 carbs,air box or Ram Air,and there will most likely be clearance issues.so I will make it one piece after the carb situation is sorted.I chose to reinforce the stock shock mounts on the top with an 1/8 washer.If the car starts to beat out the bushings I will switch to the 67-70 shock mounts.I also have the rearend bump stops welded in.I used new bumpers for the front of the car,since bolting them in is easier.
  11. I hope your surgery makes your quality of life much better.As for working on the car,I over build everything,so I never have to think about it again and move on.My wheelstander took way,way too long to build.This one I am pushing for about less than 2 years for a completed chassis.It should be fun to hear people say"what the hell is that" as the car gets backed out of the trailer.Are you going to run a vintage drive train in your car? Like a 4 spd and 9'',or a more modern set up?
  12. Hi.yes, I already have one in the pipeline. Maybe someone else might need them.
  13. Moving right along,we have the over rider traction bars done. They're made from 1 1/4'' DOM,with left and right threaded ends for 5/8'' chromoly teflon coated ends.I can now preload the rear and keep the pinion angle change to within a degree or so.Goodbye wheel hop and brake hop.And speaking of brakes here are the rear,11.75''x0.810 rotors and 67 Mustang 4 piston Kelsey Hayes calipers.The brackets are 1/2'' plate that I threaded for 1/2x20 bolts.Almost done with the rear suspension.Just have to finish the axle bumper mounts.
  14. Thank you.About half way through any of these modifications I'm like ,why did I do this? Than at the end your like,oh..........That's why.
  15. Hi again,upon the completion of another task I have some pictures. I have C-notched the frame over the axle.This car is going to be rather low and I do not want metal objects hitting other metal objects. I took inspiration from a 70 Bud Moore Mustang. I raised the frame height by 1 inch. Then the recess on the bottom is for traction bar mount clearance on the axle.That adds another 3/4 inch in height.And it is 1 inch deep.All the brackets and parts are made from 1/8 inch and all have a curve in them for added strength.When I raised the frame it left the shock crossmember hanging down 3/4 of an inch so I pie cut and sectioned the ends so it fit back up to the frame.
  16. If you have one.I'll take it.
  17. Hi. I need a passenger side seat platform for my Mach1.I have had no luck with the aftermarket ones that look handmade.Simply they aren't right. I tried ordering a factory looking one from CJs and they sent me the handmade looking one.I returned it and they told me that's the one they carry.I also have read the factory looking ones may be taller?. I have a nice original for the drivers side but need a match for the pass side. And since I am building a TA car,the car will not have carpet.so I want it to look correct. I am totally fine with a used one,or if you have the factory repo as long as its the right height for a fastback. Chris
  18. Greetings.......These are the over rider traction bar mounts for the chassis and the axle.I made them out of 1/8'' and patterned them from a Shelby team car.They tie into the chassis at the rear torque boxes,The frame rails,and into the inner rockers.The holes are for 5/8'' heims.Next will be relocating the axle bump stops to the inside of the frame rails and notching the frame for the axle mounted traction bar mount.
  19. What tail pipes?????...........................................or mufflers???
  20. I'm really glad that people like what I am doing. It's just me in a small workshop striving to put out the best possible end product.I really am trying very hard to have an end product that looks like Kar Kraft built it.That being said I have bushings.Rear sway bar bushings that you can't buy.I have a friend that is a machinist and works on turn of the century gas engines.I asked him if would like to make the bushings.So a week later I have nylon bushings for a 5/8 rear sway bar.
  21. Hello,thanks for the compliment. Yes,the car is going vintage racing. I'm building for group 6 A/P, which is lots of big block cars, Camaros,Vettes,Cobras, that sort of stuff. My car is being built as a early 70s factory Trans Am Mustang, but with a Boss 429. I do also have most of the parts to build a Boss 302 engine which could easily be swapped in for the Trans Am class. They are still limited to 305 cid.
  22. So here's the finished watts link.I have loved these cars my whole life,but in building this one I am learning more and more about just how different these cars are from the 70 and earlier cars.They pretty much just share the Mustang name and the control arms pretty much nothing else Mustang applies.When they redesigned the car that included the rear suspension also.It might not look it but it is different.The rear of the springs are mounted higher in the chassis thus lowering the rear of the car as compared to earlier Mustangs. This changes where the roll center is as compared to a 69/70 TA car.The roll center is where the pivot for the watts gets mounted. I checked and rechecked 20 odd times and kept getting the same location which is different than a 70 because it is a different car.I just had to be sure.So I even looked at the chassis measurements and sure enough,the frame rails a mounted higher in a 71-3 Mustang.All that being said,it's finished and works so on to the next thing.
  23. Hello.Yes,the pivot shaft will mount low on the box.I just figured out where this evening.It will be 2 9/16'' from the bottom of the box to the center of the pivot.You have to find the roll center of the suspension to mount the pivot.Then transfer that measurement straight back to the box.The roll center determines the pivot point.
  24. The pivot bar gets mounted to the front of the box,facing the rear end.
  25. The Watts box is now welded to the car,6 1/2 hours later.And it's still as straight as it was before I welded in.I had to shrink back down the sides of the frame a bit after.I might leave those as is or fuss with them more.I also welded the watts brackets to the rear,Now its ready to go back in the car to locate the pivot shaft.
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