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71Rustang

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Everything posted by 71Rustang

  1. Here's the other side number B.This one went a little easier,but still took the same amount of time.I'm not going to finish all of the welds flush. I was just going to run over them all with a 36 grit disc to knock off all the high and sharp spots,just to smooth out all the welds and see how I like it. The whole interior is going to be painted with Zolatone ,probably the black with grey and white spatter.
  2. You know SCCA did not allow dry sumps until the 71 season.Before that the Bud Moore cars used a huge widened baffled pan with 2 pick up tubes.One on the oil pump and the other on a scavenge pump so the oil didn't pile up in the corners.Cleveland oiling systems in stock form aren't very good. why not do a Windsor based Clevor?
  3. Like I said,the rears are 15x10 with a 5'' backspace and the fronts are 15x8 with a 4 1/4'' backspace.I wanted less backspacing in the front so I have more caliper and ball joint clearance and not deal with spacers,which was common.Allan Moffats car ran 8s and 10s in the 70s and I think the car is still set up that way. As for tires the correct Goodyears are still made. the fronts would have been a 6.00x15 and the rears 8.00x15.Hoosier makes nice tires as well. The problem with bias racing tires is they sorta have a short shelf life before dry rot and sidewall cracks.I have this problem with t
  4. Me again.This modification I was debating about for a while. I have decided to move the inner wheel houses,flush with the frame.Doing it for a couple of reasons.First,it can't hurt. If I just do it,it's done,tire clearance will never be a problem.2nd,I haven't yet decided if I am going to run the traction bars the team cars used.They attach to the top of the rear and go through the body and attach to a mount on the top of the torque box. If I don't mini tub the car I will not have the clearance to run the bars,and yes the car does have staggered shocks.None of the KK cars had staggered shocks.
  5. That car originally looked like this: I like it better the way it was.He originally ran it with 15x10 Minilites on all 4 corners.Still a cool car.
  6. Hello everyone,more progress and by that I mean welding,welding,welding,welding,welding.....................................more welding have a coffee followed by welding,and more welding with periods of grinding and finishing.Been kind of a rough week with EVH passing.I tear up just thinking about it...................So I just keep working on the car. As before I am skip welding 2 inches ,skip 2 and weld 2 inches.working my way to the rear of the car.Welding the rocker pinch welds sucked royally,because of the galvanizing and I am doing all of this on the floor overhead. So after I did those
  7. Holman &Moody would cut out the top of the rockers and install tubing ,torque box to torque box,weld it in then reinstall the top of the rocker.I have never liked the aftermarket subframe connectors apart from being ugly,the floor support rails are just that.The strength in the car is front rails,out to TBs,rockers,TBs,frame rails.
  8. Hi,So are planning a period Trans Amish.... track car or has the looks with more modern suspension? Just my opinion,but I would chop the front end of every one of these cars no matter what the intended use.It just looks better.Nice convertible by the way.
  9. The entire car..........I was just doing the fire wall today. So I skip welded the upper cowl to the lower cowl then the cowl to the firewall. Fire wall to rear fender aprons ,fire wall to torque boxes.......ect.....y'all get the idea. The whole car. You don't really notice it on Trans Am cars because of the speckled paint Bud Moore used, unless you look at a 69 Shelby as I recall they used white and I think gray. I also ordered the monoballs for the strut rods today. They should be a joy to get the front half welded in through the front of the crossmember............
  10. Hello again, here are a few pics of the "extra frame rails" KarKraft added
  11. Hello.Ok...........we all know 71/73 Mustangs do share the same Falcon D.N.A.with the earlier Mustangs,but they are different none the less.So this task of making and installing LCA braces is not as easy as in the earlier cars due to the fact the crossmember is part of the chassis and made of sheet metal,16 gauge with some 14g. I approached this as how a Kar Kraft engineer might have. First, this will not have the desired effect if you do not weld all of the seems in the crossmember solid including the control arm nut access holes and fully weld it to the shock towers like I posted in earlier
  12. Hi.Just more welding,welding,welding and yes more welding.The good news is the engine crossmember is rock solid.I also replaced the bottom of it do to the fact it was bent, smashed in and ugly.I have never had one of these cars where it wasn't bent somehow.I used a piece of 1/8'' so now you actually can jack it it up there now.The rest is just pretty much weld every seam within reason.Before you could grab it with your hands and squeeze and watch it flex,now all of that is gone.The last thing to do is make extra bracing for the LCA mount. That will not be like on the 69/70 cars.I have come up
  13. Hi ,actually I am deciding what to do about adding a bar in between the towers on top.The Chassis Manual does show how and where to put one...........but on the 70 team cars,they don't have one.the 69 cars have the bar,in 70 they deleted it and went to what you would call an upper frame rail that was built and installed from the top of the cowl under the fender apron just to the front of the shock tower.So what I am doing is trying to think like a Kar Kraft engineer and figure out what and how they would have addressed that area. The 70 and 71 rules stated that no additional bars may be added
  14. Hello,and once again thanks for the compliments.To the first question,yes this is going to be a full blown period Trans Am race car as close as I can build it, if it would have rolled out of Kar Kraft.But if I want to take it to go get an ice cream cone,I'm going too.A little backstory,this was going to originally be my "nice restored" rollin on 15x7,with dog dishes Mustang.That was the plan until this spring after I finished all of the fabrication on my A100 which is a blown alcohol hemi powered wheelstander,just like the Little Red Wagon.I tried,I really did have all the intentions of instal
  15. Well........here's a little more.I did some math and reverse engineering of how to relocate the lower arms on a 69/70 and scaled it up to fit the dimensions of a 71 and found that the proper amount to move out the control arm bolts is 5/16'' from the center of the camber slot.Which in reality is as far to the outside of the slot at the most negative camber adjustment on the car. So I made four 1/8'' thick x 2'' diameter washers just like the Boss Chassis book says to ,made all my measurements and welded them on.The rears where difficult as I had to stick the stinger through the crossmember acc
  16. Hello everyone.More to report,so far I have 14 hours in these things,start to finish.They are new Moog control arms.Stripped and rebuilt.They are boxed,welded in monoball housings and heim jointed swaybar end linked.Just have to now fit the monoball in the housing install the ball joint and paint.I am in search of old moog adjustable ball joint kits,for now the stockers are fine.I might even adapt a Howe adjustable ball joint in when the time comes.
  17. Hello,just a quickie.Roller idler arm installed.The plate from the frame to the bottom is 1/8'' and the the 2 side braces are 3/8'',so it shouldn't bend or walk.I also filed the sides if the arm mount flat so it has a nice fit to the side brackets.I'm most likely going to remove the stud in the end of the center link and replace with a bolt.
  18. Hello once again.I figured this was a worth look. I got in most of the rest of my front suspension.This stuff is from Opentracker.A roller idler arm,roller spring perches,tie rod adjusters, LCA boxing plates and on the bottom are the monoballs for the LCAs.The rest of the pics are 4 days of welding on the front end.I am fully welding all of the lower frame rail seams nose to tail on the whole car,torque boxes and any and all structural and suspension points. Evey thing else will be skip welded every 2 inches.Just now waiting for the hiem joints for the sway bar links, then I can build the lowe
  19. Me again.Who here has ever thought about adding the Trans Am shock tower braces to your car? It wasn't easy. Since nobody makes them like for 64 through 70,I went ahead and made a set.They are 1/8" and installed at a 45 degree angle from midway vertically on the factory internal brace to the top of the frame.Not to bad to weld in,accept for welding inside the bottom of the tower pocket to the frame,that sucked. I ended up cutting a 1/4 inch slice in the side of the frame to access the bottom of the brace and the top of the frame.I welded those together through the slice then welded the top of
  20. Here ya go................Its not that hard of a process. But it is very labor intensive. I started the cut at the cowl just above the hood hinge bolt and went straight to the rad support.Then cutting again from where I started gently angle the cut down till it was at the top of the shock tower,about 9/16 or 5/8 of an inch.Then from the front of the tower is a progressively steeper pie cut to the rad support. The radiator support I sectioned two inches out of,reinstalled then bring down the top of the aprons gently check heights and width and weld.the pic of the pie cut is only at 1 1/4 inches
  21. Some nice cars you have there.I will be running a Boss 429. These are the only Mustangs that they are a bolt in.I like Clevelands a lot and I also have all the parts to build a Boss 302,But I want a Boss 429. As for the nose droop I wanted to do it.I think these cars need it anyway. The car looks better,sharper and more aggressive. Most people wouldn't know unless you parked it next to a stock one.The worst part was sectioning the bumper brackets.In the pics you see I didn't have to modify the fenders one bit. The fit and finish of the car will be equal to Kar Kraft car at the time,so nice but
  22. Hi again,here is a couple more progress pics. Reworked and boxed Moog upper control arms,and installed rear springs.The front of the springs use a 5/8 mono ball and the rear use a sleeve with stock rubber bushings. The leafs are new from Eaton Detroit Spring.They built all of the KK Trans Am springs originally and still have all the blue prints. They are 1 3/4 wide 210lb.This is the Bud Moore set up,which will require me to build and install a Watts link....................
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