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Everything posted by 71Rustang

  1. Hello,while I'm waiting on parts,new rear axle housing, bearings to rebuild the center section and install the locker,I finally finished the ends of the rockers. I had thought about running the wheel flares to the bottom of the rockers. A while ago I decided to build the flares just as KK would have. Just large enough to cover the top of the tire. And tall enough to have the tire go up in body without hitting anything. So I finished the rocker ends back to factory.
  2. Hi.............another quick update.I have been talking with Borgeson steering.I took apart the manual box I have and sent them pictures of the parts.To which the person confirmed that the internals are indeed Saginaw parts.The box is a Ford copy of a Saginaw 525 box.They will sell me a new worm rack assembly to convert the box to 16:1 with no modifications needed. But they are currently out of stock on them,but are right now in process of producing more and will be available in 8 to 10 weeks.
  3. Hello.I don't know if anybody here has ever seen this.I found this on the good old interweb.It's about taking Vette steering box parts and with a couple modifications you can put them into the Ford manual box for a 16:1 ratio.Which is the ratio that where in the 69/70 TA boxes.I did check out the part numbers and they are legit,actually you can by kits with all the parts in them to rebuild a Vette box.I also believe that KK would have figured this out and used it.This is the new steering box plan.
  4. Hi,a quick update. I ordered the rear end today. A 61" wide full floating Coleman 9 inch. So in the next coming weeks and months there will be the building of traction bar links,pinion angle setting,Watts link engineering and general car building mayhem to come.
  5. As far as I know, there aren't any longer pitman arms available,not saying that something, some where from another Ford wouldn't work. But I think I may have found some info about using a Vette sector shaft and worm assembly. I'm also sending emails to rebuilders to see if it is possible. ..
  6. Anybody need any slightly bent emergency brake brackets. The only bracket that is left on the car is for the pinion bumper.I am debating about take that one off also.
  7. Hi,y'all. It's been a little while.I finally have come to the decision that I will be using the stock rear end width of 61". The rear is going to be a Coleman 9 inch floater.I have also removed all evidence of the e-brake system. I do have a question for y'all. Is it possible to convert a manual steering box to a quicker ratio? I'm looking at getting one so I can move the car around in the future. Less mess. Than a power box. And I got to wondering,can I make the 24:1 box more racy go fast,say 16:1 or lower?
  8. Hello.Finally got some mock up tires and got them mounted. Goodyear Blue Streaks, fronts are 600x15 and 800x15 rear which in metric is a 265 50 15 and a 295 50 15. Now I am mocking them up in body to figure out how wide the rear is going to be. A 60'' wide rear puts the bulge of the tire even with the factory lip and the other width I like is 59''. The 1/2''makes a huge difference I found and I do like it both ways. How close to the body height wise doesn't matter. The top of the tires are going to be right up against the top of the lip at ride height. I'm going to flare the quarters anyway..
  9. Hi.Well........It's all up to how crazy you would like to get.If it were me and I had a car like yours I would most certainly weld the seems of the frame rails from the torque box to the radiator support. Then the outer shock towers to the fender aprons to start.Also do the radiator support to the front fender aprons and the rear aprons to the fire wall.All of this will insure making the front box of the car way more rigid and a much better foundation to mount the suspension.I did make an amendment to my lower shock tower braces. The vertical outer flange where the top frame flange is spot wel
  10. Here's a quick one.You don't even have to be building a TA car to do this either.I have installed a 1/8'' square plate from the inner rocker to the outer leaf spring mount.Nothing jaw dropping but effective.
  11. Hi,glad you like the car.Your first query.The Mustang with the Australian steering box was Smokey Yunick's 69 Boss 302. I don't really know the reasoning behind him doing that other than the fact of,Smokey Yunick. The standard manual steering box (16:1)was fitted to the cars built by Kar Kraft.My car has the variable ratio box that comes with the competition suspension.But since none of that matters anyway ,I was still going to reuse it. The 800 series boxes are good steering boxes.I am either going to rebuild as is,or send it out to have it reconditioned with a 12:1 conversion.I'm not going t
  12. Hello again.I mini tubed the car for multiple reasons. Yes a 10'' wheel with a 295 does fit the stock wells and looks good, but..............My car is going to sit very low,and by low I mean oil pan maybe 2-3''s off the ground.Now in the rear I wanted the tires just about even with the flare on the body,which is fine for a stockish car. But with a very low rear suspension height once you start working the suspension tires with large flexible side walls start hitting things.Mustang wheel houses are very narrow in the front.So if you take a low riding car with a big tire and jack up, just on one
  13. Hi everyone. Well after a lot of research and work. My ,what do I think Kar Kraft would have done to install upper frame rails on a 71 Mustang is done. I Think they turned out very well. they extend 23 1/2'' out from the front of the cowl plates and are 1 1/2'' tall at the very front. They are fully welded and sealed at both ends.They are also fully boxed at the spring pocket................................Next.
  14. Hi,here's what I decided to do about the cowl drains. I blocked of the large half round openings. I then welded all of the seams of the cowl extension to the apron making it water tight. I made filler pieces for the top of the extension and at the bottom where it is cut out for the front cowl channel runs through it. I reworked the ends of the front flange to allow any water to run off. Now water will not be able to get into the upper apron boxes when installed. As for water getting in the cowl. I will just deal with it. I'm not going to seal the top off as the vent hole on the drivers side
  15. Hi again.I'm pretty much fighting with myself over if I should cut holes in the boxing plates to make the cowl drains functional. The thing is, I have come up with at least 5 or 6 different ways to have the drains work and the truth is I hate them all,no matter how much I make them look like they are supposed to be there.I still hate them.I'm a very details oriented person.Details matter and all of the small details for me add up to the big picture.And even though nobody will ever see the holes or the supports for that matter,if I put the holes in,it will bother me. So if I get a little water
  16. Here's the finished boxing pieces for the upper door to shock tower bracing. I just have to fit and weld to the car. I also am trying to figure how I going to deal with the cowl drains. Kar Kraft cut off the outer cowl panels on the 69/ 70 cars and just plated over the drains.......because race cars and water drains aren't important. But I would like to have a way for the water to get out.............I'll figure a nice clean solution out.
  17. Hello. I've been working all week on this and I finally have it. I will not be running a Monte Carlo bar because I don't want one,and it won't work with my set up anyway. So I am installing the "upper frame rail supports" as KK installed them on the 70s. I feel that they would have continued to due so on the 71s. For reference I have included a pic of a Bud Moore 70 Mustang.Since the 71s are rather different in the front end I used the 70 for reference and changed it for the 71 chassis. Now I just have to turn cardboard and tape into sheetmetal and welds...........
  18. No more bushings.Since the redesign of the Mustang made the front suspension better,it also made the front crossmember worse.I had thought about just cutting the whole thing out and throwing it away,but that would be the easy way out.I wanted to use it so this is what I came up with. The factory bushing mounts are just pressed in with 2 halves,swagged together then spotted to the crossmember. So I elected to just get rid of both of them and hole sawed a 3 1/2'' hole in both sides.Then I made two 1/4'' thick mounting rings to weld the bearing housings to. The point of those was to strengthen th
  19. Hi all.i finished welding all the interior structural panels together. That's pretty much it for that. The car is still straight and the doors still shut ,so we will call that a win.Next I will figure out how to install the monoball bearings into the front crossmember for the strut rods.The bearings take the place of the stock bushings.But once again these Mustangs are different than the earlier cars and the bushing mounts are rather different.The older cars have 3 layers of steel to bore a bigger hole through and weld in the housing and room to work. These cars have a crossmember made of 14 g
  20. Know idea, you just keep going till it's done. Probably not as much as you would think
  21. Hello again. More chassis seam welding. I'm done welding seams solid. Now all of the rest of them get skip welded. I'm done all of the seams on the front of the car and the tub. The last bit I have to do on the inside will be the B pillers to the inner quarters and the wheel houses to the inner quarters
  22. Finished welding all of the underbody seams with the exception of the drivers staggered shock mount. I will weld that in or modify it as needed when I build the watts link. I am not convinced that I won't have a clearance issue. Or maybe I will reverse the watts cross bar locations and it will be fine. I'll figure that out when I get there.
  23. That's why I had to go to the junk yard in the first place. The standard practice for doing brakes on the front of a 60s or 70s Ford is to replace the 2 piece with a 1 piece rotor,and chuck the factory stuff.I don't think I have ever owned a Ford with original disc brake hubs still on it.The hubs were only 12 bucks a piece.....................Minilite, makes Minilite wheels.They are made in England.I do think that they owned by a bigger company though.This is what they used back in 69,70,71......ect on the Boss TA cars,Cameros,Javelins ect...........
  24. Hi.Yes the chassis is super rigid. Yes you can tell that it is way stiffer than before.The doors even sound different when you close them.The car will also be getting a cage. I know you can get drum hubs new,but was not aware of any disc hubs being produced since most if not all of the disc kits are for drum brake cars,the spindles are easier to adapt brackets to.The rotors mount to the back of the hub just as normally,but I will be using 3 inch studs.
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