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Everything posted by 71Rustang

  1. Thank you ,I'm still thinking about how I'm going to seal them.
  2. Hi.Moving along here we have the completed outer wheel house extensions welded in. I'm still thinking about if I want to use body adhesive or just tack them to the quarters in a few places. The flares get filler anyway to smooth them out. On to the next thing.
  3. Hello,I'm still at it.I'm currently working on the outer wheel house filler panels. I have the drivers side fit tight to the quarter and tacked in. Now to do the passenger side then to weld them in. I also made the front and rear flares even larger to better fit the larger wheels.The fronts are done and just have to be edged and I'm working on the rear.The rears also need to be edged.
  4. Hi again everybody,it's been a little while.Sometimes progress is just slow. But I have the new wheels on the car and it's perfect. They are Trans Am Race Engineering,Superlites.........all 4 are exactly the same size at 15x10, 4 inches of backspace.I may have to go one size wider on the front tires,but the 600x15s will work fine for now.I haven't changed the flares on the car.I don't really have to make major changes to them ,just tweek them for a bit more turing clearance in the front and hammer more curve into them in the rear. I do however have to trim the rear of the front valance by 1/2''. So now I can continue working on finishing the flares and moving on.
  5. All the ball joints are Moog,so they should do ok.The TA cars did run an adjustable Moog lower ball joint which is no longer available.It had a threaded adjuster on the bottom so you could take out slack. So when ever I wear out the lowers I have found Howe and I think another place makes an adjustable ball joint that I can fit into the lower arm.
  6. Just a quick update.......I received my test wheel from Trans Am Race Engineering and have it test fitted to the car. It's a 15x10 Superlite with 4 inches of backspacing. From the edge of the front wheel to the edge of the flare is 1 1/2 inches. The same spec wheel will also be used on the rear so all 4 wheels will be the same. So next I will be boxing the wheel back up,sending it back and discussing the finer points of the wheels with TARE,and have a set of 4 made. Then fit with my tires and tweek and modify the flares to fit .
  7. Also take out the glove box and maybe even the heater box if you suspect the cowl is leaking to check........
  8. Here it is outside again.....flares aren't done yet,but we're workin on it. The rears really did balance out the fronts.But it still needs wider front wheels. Probably 10s in the front and new rears with 4.25" backspace,same wheels all 4 corners.
  9. Thank you.......Just basic body hammers,dollies and technique. As long as you can see things that aren't there, just keep swinging the hammer until you see it. It's only metal.
  10. Here's the car with a 10'' wide wheel with 4'' of backspace on the front. The flare is still wider buy a little over an inch.Now mind you the wheel arches did bow out a bit due to the nose drop and bending the fenders down,but still lots of room stock as well.
  11. Thanks.There was a point when I was installing the Watts box,that I thought to myself,now she's a TA. After finishing hammering out the last flare and looked down the side and thought,now......now it really is a TA Mustang. Are you looking at welding on premade flares,glass flares,build your own and weld them on,or doing a milder version of what I did? Just buy rolling out and flattening the lip they gained an 1 1/2'' There are multiple ways. The way I built mine is the way Kar Kraft and Bud Moore built them.
  12. Here's the passenger rear flare shaped to its final size. Next I will be blending the flares where they meet the rockers into the body. Then making the new filler panels for the outer wheel house to quarter panel.
  13. Hi,it's picture time again.You have to be a certain kind of person to take hammers and start hitting 1200$ worth of new sheet metal you just bought and installed.............looks like I am that sort of person.LOL I have been working on the fender flares and now have a really good handle on them and have even created a new sort of problem ,but not really for myself.You see I only really have 2 cars as a visual reference to look to when I am building mine,the Tope and the Hinchcliff Mustangs.I now realize that those cars indeed had 10 inch wide wheels on the front when they were built. I went with the 8s in the front because I knew that they would fit.But after flaring the front just like the Tope car I realized that the amount of room in the front fenders is huge.The 8s would work just fine ,but visually look a bit off.I could have used 8s front and rear and not flared anything,but where is the fun in that.TA cars have flares.So far the fronts are shaped and the drivers rear is shaped,I still have to do the pass rear.I also have included a pic of a 10 inch wheel with 4'' of backspace on the front to prove my point and a pic of Ed Hinchcliffs car,those are 10s in front.Looks like I'm going with a new set of wheels with 10s in the front,but not Minilites,they were to much of a pain in the butt to get.This time I'm going with the TA Race Engineering Superlites.And now the AMX gets a new set of wheels.
  14. I designed the stops with making improvements in mind.That's why the chassis brackets are flat.I do have another set of stops in mind with rubber,nylon,ect on top for a little cushion.I can make another set of stop brackets in about 45 minutes. I've seen some of the team cars with cut down springs to get the rate,then with spacers to make up the distance. And I have also read about some of the cars,had spring set ups in them that if you did jack the car up the springs would fall out of the seats.I didn't like the limiting cable or strap idea for my car,just because I didn't like them.Remember the idea is to keep the car on the ground. The stops are mostly for jacking the car up and if the car hangs a wheel around a corner. Since I built this set up I can always improve/change it if need be. I have never been to an auto cross event.They seem like they could be fun.As for My AMX............It is it's own thing,and I love it dearly. It's going to be my perfect street car that my Mach 1 was going to be.The other thing with AMC is don't be in a hurry to fix it.You will get used to hearing,we have to order that,and no that isn't in stock,a lot.But I have noticed no matter what kind of car brands people are loyal to,everybody loves to see a Javelin. Probably going to start on that this winter. Did you uncle have a Rebel or a Scrambler American? You have pictured the Scrambler. The Rebel was the midsize car.Machine is still the best name for any car ever.... Oh...........and I am currently working on the fender flares.I have all 4 of the wheel arch lips rolled out and hammer and dollied to the shape of the flare. They are going to look killer when done.
  15. You guys are just going to have to get used to me mentioning the AMX every once in a while,it's part of the family....LOL...................AND NOW,back to our regularly scheduled program.I've been working on this problem for about a month...ish.And yes while messing with the AMX it did hit me,and I knew what I was going to do.The stock suspension sits on the frame at full droop,so why not build mounts the bolt to the car,just up higher in the chassis to make up for the shorter spring.So here we are.The chassis brackets are short enough to allow the spring to to removed and installed. Then bolt on the stop brackets and done. They hold tension on the spring so it can't rotate in the seat or fall out of the car.Everything is made of 1/8'',with 5/16'' grade 8 fine thread bolts.I left my self enough material to install 2 more bolts per side and upgrade them to 3/8th if I wanted to.There is no deflection in the mounts and it works like it should and looks like it belongs on the car.
  16. Thanks......I have always loved Javelins. And well, I guess I have a type of car design that I'm really attracted to. The 71-3 Mustangs and the 2nd gen Javelins share many of the same proportions. Long hood,short deck, low roof, full width grill, long overbite front end. Not to mention the 4300 carburetor. And I love Trans Am cars.
  17. Hi.it's been a little while. A couple things.I did figure out how to keep the coil springs in the front of the car.I am currently working on those parts and of course will post pics when I am done. I took a little break from the car because the spring thing was driving me nuts. I'm one of those people that will work till the point of mental exhaustion to figure out a solution to a problem.But in the two weeks that I really didn't touch the car. I bought a 73 AMX,360, 4speed, Go Pack car,that's eventually going to become the street car my Mach1 was going to be.And while messing with the AMX I got over the mental block I had with the Mustang.So when I get the coil spring maker not falling outters installed I will be moving on to the wheel flares.So here is the AMX.I don't think anybody on here will mind one little ole pic of an AMC....................oh ya...........NO Trans Am mods to the AMX ,I promise.
  18. Hi.I'm glad ya'll like the car.I have an update..........having the worlds lowest 71 Mustang has just been a treat.LOL. You change one thing and then everything else doesn't work anymore.So I am systematically correcting all the problems associated with how low it is.So here is the latest fix.I notched the frame to have enough clearance for the strut rods.I like how it turned out. It looks like the notches belong there.Now on to the springs that fall out.................
  19. Hi every one.I decided just to throw the front end on to see how she looks and to see how I'm going to have to make plans to do the flares.As well as planning and figuring a bunch of other things,such as tow hooks,possibly moving the oil cooler from where they were on the 70s,how low the front spoiler is amongst other things.I'm staying with the Mach1 bumper as the bumper really isn't that heavy,it's the support that's got the weight to it,so that thing is going on a diet. The only place for tow hooks on the front is to weld them to the bumper brackets.And If I cant find a factory tie down for the rear I'm just going to copy one. I also have the manual box in it now,still the stock ratio.The power box is never going back in.It steers way to nice with a big block in it. Taking the day off,I'll be back at it tomorrow.
  20. Thank you....and yes it is. That's the biggest structure that I could fit with the septic system, road and creek and set backs the township wanted. I also built the wheelstander in there.
  21. Some motovation............. for if you think the long slog through your project is just taking forever.Just keep plugging away at it and I promise you'll get there.I've been staring at the car from a distance of 3 ft or less for a year.
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