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72HCODE

Tech Advisors
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Everything posted by 72HCODE

  1. this topic is kind of old but i just saw it on my feed and i can give my opinion on what is going on. Forums in general have been on a downward trend for at least the last 15 years or more. people moved on to Facebook now and are using it like a forum. in general more people want everything in one spot rather then going to different websites. the way people now move around the internet has changed. bookmark management in browsers is now secondary and the interface is horrible compared to the old days. it seems people have reverted back to the old days of portal pages
  2. its been a while but you pop off the lower dash cover 2 Phillips screws that takes the lower plastic piece off the column. then there are either 2 or 4 large nuts (i forget) that will release the steering column from the dash. you will then have clearance to get to the ignition switch and the rod that goes to the ignition key assembly. pop the switch connector and 2 small screws and off the switch comes. if you ever wanted to adjust the position of the steering column move it fore or aft. you will have to release the column from the dash in a similar manor. if you do move
  3. amazing i have not been around in quite some time. i happened to be cleaning out my old emails and there was a coupon from mustangsunlimited so i went to the website and saw they went out of buisness. honestly i was shocked. Before i found DON at OMS i was using MU. i guess all those MU gift coupons i have are worthless now AHAHAHAHAH
  4. depends how long it sat and the fuel evaporation from the bowls. sits a long time then i crank it for like 20-30 seconds to try and prime the fuel pump. stop. then i floor the pedal to set the curb idle and reset the choke(holley 4bbl double pumper) then crank it over usually starts in 5 seconds. recent start, i floor the pedal to set the curb idle and choke then crank usually 5-10 seconds on start. either way i then smack my tach since the needle gets stuck on zero. hot starts within 30-60 minutes i might have to feather the throttle half way on restart. modern fuel will
  5. i run the same intake with a 4 hole spacer with a holley. i needed the spacer for the clearance between the intake for the holley. i think i had to put a 1" spacer but i don't remember now. i use a Phenolic spacer just incase of vapor lock issues which i have not had. only issue with the 4 holes is make sure your carb alignment is good so you don't get hung up on the butterflies opening and sticking on the spacer.
  6. if you will run leds do not use the blue covers. i learned the hard way and had to take my dash apart again to remove those blue filters.
  7. rule of thumb. you have air, Spark, fuel. air is working spark is working next issue fuel. did it go bad in the tank. is the carb gummed up with bad gas. is there a clogged fuel filter. etc...
  8. something overlooked if these are open chamber V4 heads throw them in the garbage and get closed chamber heads.
  9. the seals are most likely dried out and leaking. you could drop in some lucas transmission fix. maybe it kind of gets you moving but you need to rebuild the trans. fresh fluid causes more problems in a old transmission that was on its way out where the fluid was never changed from new for maintenance. the older fluid would of been thicker full of metal and debre from the clutches. it would of been harder to push through a leaking seal so the trans would of acted a more like normal. lucas thickens up the fluid and has some anti leak that clogs up some small leaks. if the clutches
  10. the amount of money to undo the damage exceeds getting another car and starting over. money being no object yeah you can restore it. but she already spent so much money that you are going to exceed another 15K to make it right and then there still won't be money to make the car perfect. plus the time. now you basically have to undo everything the last guy did, then get it back to the point you can start install new metal to make it right, you looking at another year or more and as the time goes forward the money and likely hood of completion in the customers mind shrink then it becomes le
  11. i bought just the mirror quite a few years ago. however it was one of the best upgrades for the car next to converting the interior lights to LED. i recommend anyone that drives their car installs it.
  12. based on the information the first thing i would do is replace the soft rubber line, flush the system and rebleed with new fluid. then go test. if the front lines are just as old as the rear i would replace them as well.
  13. Finally got the car back on the road. parts were back ordered. I was suspecting more damage but the prop valve and the master cylinder appear to be ok. the drum shoe failing appears to have been the only problem. i rebuilt both rear drums, flushed the entire system with new dot 3 fluid and bled the system, master was pumping correctly and holding pressure. nothing appeared to be leaking as i inspected the rear wheel cylinders. so went for a test drive. did some moderate stops to heat up the shoes all seems ok again.
  14. been a few months finally jacked up the piece of junk to get the wheels off because i need to rebleed all 4 calipers and wheel cylinders when changing the master. got the new master and bench bleed kit, got a new vacuum bleeder as well. now after the brake failure i noted that the right rear tire was putting out a lot of heat after i limped home and parked. so the first thing i did before touching the master was pull the right rear drum and... the glue used for the shoe lining completely failed. that would explain the sudden loss of brake power i felt i checked the driv
  15. no was the 14th. amazingly the failure happened just at the right time, no traffic no large hills. the pedal was to the floor but the car was still stopping of course when it happened i reduced speed to 20-30 mph. which i'm sure started to anger the cars building behind me. but i was able to get home in one piece. now this is the same master where i had switched from dot 5 to dot 4 because of all the leaks i was getting with silicone fluid and not swelling the O-rings correctly. i flushed the system a few times over the years since that change but it is more then possible t
  16. well its been about a year since i last drove my car. so first nice day out i figure i'd take a spin. first thing i did was inspect the car looking for obvious issues. i looked under and over the chassis and engine bay, checked for brake leaks. the usual converter leak was there still weeping. popped the master cylinder cap to have a look, was full and looked ok. inspected the engine compartment for rodent damage, battery has been on the minder so it was ok. checked fluid levels all good. when i stepped on the brake pedal something was a little off but it has been a year since i dr
  17. this is obviously a Holley Thermo Smog pump that only California cars had due to C.A.R.B laws.
  18. if you turn on the signals do the front and rear lights indicate left and right but the dash indicators are just not working? then you know the issue is in the dash board instrument panel. if you turn on the hazard lights and the dash lights up left and right then you know the instrument cluster is ok your hazards are working so switch itself might be ok.. next place to look is open the glove box and look up there is a panel up there pop the 2 screws and drop the panel down the Turn signal flasher module is located here. the Hazard lights module is down by the fusebox, but
  19. Less then 50% from my angle. Used welding shield and 2 sets of sunglasses to avoid eye damage.
  20. use some shoegoo or RTV sealant to hold the screw in and it will reduce vibration as it will be a flexible vibration stopper.
  21. What kills the clocks is long term storage without a battery tender. When the car battery dies it reaches a point where the battery doesn't have enough power to run the coils in the clock. The contacts that open and close for the coils gets stuck closed, that charges the coil but it doesn't have enough power to magnetically throw the contact to discharge. So the coil burns out usually right at the end of the connection. That kills the clock. If you are good with soldering you can unwind the lacquered coil that burned out 1/2 turn and resolder the coil connection that burned out and get the c
  22. Blower motor can be removed pretty easy. First remove the drivers seat. Disconnect the battery. Next get into the car on your back and slide yourself by the accelerator pedal. There are 2 wires follow them off the blower one is a push on connector. The second is a ground to the body up high in the dash you can reach it with a long Phillips Next there are 4 hex head bolts holding the blower and cage into the fan blower duct housing. I think they are 1/4" you will need a few different length extensions to get a small Rachel around the pedal and some wires. Once removed p
  23. well the true effect of what photobucket did will be felt over the next 2 weeks. they basically dropped a nuke on the internet. long term, they just murdered this type of communication "forums" as image hosting was the biggest driver of content. everyone will be forced onto groups on social media to maintain what they had before. I refuse to go on social media so my posting is dead from now on. other free hosters will now get slammed from the photobucket users and they will have to go pay as well very shortly. i'm not migrating over and over again so all my threads now have dead li
  24. i figured i would post this here since it will effect anything and everything that is using photobucket. Photobucket changed there TOS silently a few days ago they went from a free hoster to a pay site. they are basically holding your photos for 400$ as that is the cost it takes to re-enable 3rd party linking. 3rd party linking is what allows your photos to be posted inside your threads. So expect massive broken links to photos in threads from now on until a new free hoster is located. just a huge heads up 3 of my photobucket accounts are suspended from 3rd party hosti
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