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72HCODE

Tech Advisors
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Everything posted by 72HCODE

  1. it can. but if your booster is still holding vacuum then it is fine. I've had to replace my original booster 2 times. first was it was original to the car and the diaphragm was dead inside. the second blew up when i had a massive lean Carb backfire through the intake that blew up all my vacuum accessories. the worst case that can happen when your booster blows is pushing the brake pedal requires some effort the brakes will still work and stop the car it will be harder. then the engine will have a vacuum leak and start stalling.
  2. from what you wrote about the FMX: as it warms up you have more issues shifting. this is because the Transmission fluid is reaching temperature and becoming thinner in viscosity. at the same time you have the transmission components heating up and expanding. as this happens the fluid pressure is dropping through leaking o-rings. even without vacuum on the modular the speed governor overrides for gear shifting. the trans would be shifting without the vacuum modulator however because the internal seals are gone you can't build enough pressure to hold the clutches and so it never shifts. you can test this buy sticking a transmission fluid modifier in like Lucas Transmission fix, mechanic in a can this will boost the pressure by trying to fill in the o-ring seals and increase the viscosity of the fluid. however its going to need a rebuild to fix. the clutches might be fine but you have to crack it open and look around to know. you can get seal rebuild kits for the FMX but you won't know how complete it is until you start the rebuild. i found the complete kits for the C6 were not complete and i had to buy another kit to address the missing seals in the first kit from another manufacturer. a good complete FMX kit is going to run like 300$ in materials. just the seals is going to run around 100$ keep in mind thanks to Covid supply chains are a mess and many kits not not be available at the moment. as for the modulator itself you can test it easily. put a hand vaccum pump the modulator and just pull some vacuum and see if it holds. if it holds no vacuum then you know it is blown and should be replaced however i believe your issue is dried out seals internally not allowing proper pressure to hold the different fluid circuits inside. if you do it yourself i also recommend www.badshoeproductions.com. i used Kenneth Collins video to fix my 3rd member and my C-6
  3. this topic is kind of old but i just saw it on my feed and i can give my opinion on what is going on. Forums in general have been on a downward trend for at least the last 15 years or more. people moved on to Facebook now and are using it like a forum. in general more people want everything in one spot rather then going to different websites. the way people now move around the internet has changed. bookmark management in browsers is now secondary and the interface is horrible compared to the old days. it seems people have reverted back to the old days of portal pages. the auto fill in and search functions have replaced bookmarks in a way and it keeps everyone on a single platform for information. flame wars and censorship, this ran tons of people off the forums, this is handled in various ways on facebook by admins or facebook itself but people seem to feel free on facebook, but they also seem to self check themselves as the posts are so public. i know people forget that on forums you have the same ignore list controls but somehow they felt everything is more complex on forums. another angle is people really just got sick of the forums format and moved on and the same is happening with facebook people are moving to discord servers with all the sub communities. facebook and discord tend to self moderate while forums have always been a messy human process and people get offended very easily. facebook and discord usually have much better controls over the information you post as well. for example if you decided to remove yourself from a forum you have to tediously remove one post at time or create a script that does it for you many times posts are locked for different reasons and you cannot remove a post that may hold sensitive information then you have to deal with moderation staff that usually is unwilling to help you thus the user is angry because of the lost of control over personal information. with facebook for example everything you post is yours to control and delete, however facebook does keep everything you ever posted as data that could have a nefarious future. more reasons galore but the time of Forums ended long ago and people just moved on to whatever was the next big thing and they will move on after that as well. years ago it was myspace then it was facebook and now its tiktok or patreon. everyone is leaving youtube at the moment for a bunch of reasons. the aging digital popuation has its effect; the older generation was used to reading things while the younger generation wants to watch things and they want it faster and faster. so on a forum somebody would of asked how do you change a power steering pump that resulted in a long thread with photos and a back and forth of clarification followed by differing opinions on the subject and somebody getting offended at some point for something. verse somebody asks the same on facebook or youtube and a video is posted showing the procedure and tools required and any noise is left in the comments section which can be ignored. forums support embed video but the user is usually older and less tech savvy so the younger crowd migrates onto the current hot platform for information. it is never any one thing that kills something it is death by a 1000s cuts. eBay pretty much committed suicide the last 5 years as example so slowly everyone has been leaving it resulting in massive stagnation. again death by a 1000 cuts. they changed the interface people hate it, now you have to pay taxes on it, the sellers got screwed with rule changes, the buyers got screwed with rule changes, shipping is handled differently pissing people off, and just on and on so now people are on craigslist or Facebook marketplace. amazon and Esty have taken a ton of business away from eBay as well. in general ALL forums have seen traffic go down to almost zero so just know it isn't just this forum.
  4. its been a while but you pop off the lower dash cover 2 Phillips screws that takes the lower plastic piece off the column. then there are either 2 or 4 large nuts (i forget) that will release the steering column from the dash. you will then have clearance to get to the ignition switch and the rod that goes to the ignition key assembly. pop the switch connector and 2 small screws and off the switch comes. if you ever wanted to adjust the position of the steering column move it fore or aft. you will have to release the column from the dash in a similar manor. if you do move the column to a different position then double check your rubber isolator rag joint on the steering box connection. the bottom of the column telescopes however due to rust and age it will get stuck if you move the column back then it will pull on the rag joint and can disconnect the mechanical joint pins if that happens then the wheel is putting all the weight on the rubber of the rag joint if the rubber rips you can lose control of the car's steering. after servicing the ignition switch i would inspect the rag joint anyway just make sure the rubber is in good shape and the finger pins are making contact through the plate (like a U joint)
  5. amazing i have not been around in quite some time. i happened to be cleaning out my old emails and there was a coupon from mustangsunlimited so i went to the website and saw they went out of buisness. honestly i was shocked. Before i found DON at OMS i was using MU. i guess all those MU gift coupons i have are worthless now AHAHAHAHAH
  6. depends how long it sat and the fuel evaporation from the bowls. sits a long time then i crank it for like 20-30 seconds to try and prime the fuel pump. stop. then i floor the pedal to set the curb idle and reset the choke(holley 4bbl double pumper) then crank it over usually starts in 5 seconds. recent start, i floor the pedal to set the curb idle and choke then crank usually 5-10 seconds on start. either way i then smack my tach since the needle gets stuck on zero. hot starts within 30-60 minutes i might have to feather the throttle half way on restart. modern fuel will vapor lock easy as it evaporates fast.
  7. i run the same intake with a 4 hole spacer with a holley. i needed the spacer for the clearance between the intake for the holley. i think i had to put a 1" spacer but i don't remember now. i use a Phenolic spacer just incase of vapor lock issues which i have not had. only issue with the 4 holes is make sure your carb alignment is good so you don't get hung up on the butterflies opening and sticking on the spacer.
  8. if you will run leds do not use the blue covers. i learned the hard way and had to take my dash apart again to remove those blue filters.
  9. rule of thumb. you have air, Spark, fuel. air is working spark is working next issue fuel. did it go bad in the tank. is the carb gummed up with bad gas. is there a clogged fuel filter. etc...
  10. something overlooked if these are open chamber V4 heads throw them in the garbage and get closed chamber heads.
  11. the seals are most likely dried out and leaking. you could drop in some lucas transmission fix. maybe it kind of gets you moving but you need to rebuild the trans. fresh fluid causes more problems in a old transmission that was on its way out where the fluid was never changed from new for maintenance. the older fluid would of been thicker full of metal and debre from the clutches. it would of been harder to push through a leaking seal so the trans would of acted a more like normal. lucas thickens up the fluid and has some anti leak that clogs up some small leaks. if the clutches and bands are still decent then it just needs a refresh. pull the trans apart change the seals check for wear or additional issues then reassemble if the clutches are still ok and then new fluid will work as normal.
  12. the amount of money to undo the damage exceeds getting another car and starting over. money being no object yeah you can restore it. but she already spent so much money that you are going to exceed another 15K to make it right and then there still won't be money to make the car perfect. plus the time. now you basically have to undo everything the last guy did, then get it back to the point you can start install new metal to make it right, you looking at another year or more and as the time goes forward the money and likely hood of completion in the customers mind shrink then it becomes lets put this project on the back burner and eventually you get stuck with it in storage or with a lean on it. you've got mechanical, electrical, engine, drivetrain all questionable. i mean what happens if the motor swap from a 2002 is junk and grenades a week after you finish. you could find a decent replacement take all the good parts off this one and put it on the better start and at least have some of the parts transfer over to keep the memory alive. i think there should be a realistic sit down with the customer and come up with a game plan to move forward or not. i've been through this on my car. i pushed hard to get mine done and it was REALLY bad at the start. i've spend tons of money and have a 20 footer at best that runs so-so and i wish i could of started over with a much better car.
  13. i bought just the mirror quite a few years ago. however it was one of the best upgrades for the car next to converting the interior lights to LED. i recommend anyone that drives their car installs it.
  14. based on the information the first thing i would do is replace the soft rubber line, flush the system and rebleed with new fluid. then go test. if the front lines are just as old as the rear i would replace them as well.
  15. Finally got the car back on the road. parts were back ordered. I was suspecting more damage but the prop valve and the master cylinder appear to be ok. the drum shoe failing appears to have been the only problem. i rebuilt both rear drums, flushed the entire system with new dot 3 fluid and bled the system, master was pumping correctly and holding pressure. nothing appeared to be leaking as i inspected the rear wheel cylinders. so went for a test drive. did some moderate stops to heat up the shoes all seems ok again.
  16. been a few months finally jacked up the piece of junk to get the wheels off because i need to rebleed all 4 calipers and wheel cylinders when changing the master. got the new master and bench bleed kit, got a new vacuum bleeder as well. now after the brake failure i noted that the right rear tire was putting out a lot of heat after i limped home and parked. so the first thing i did before touching the master was pull the right rear drum and... the glue used for the shoe lining completely failed. that would explain the sudden loss of brake power i felt i checked the drivers side and the shoes were perfect... GREAT so i ordered new 10x2" rear drum shoes RIVITED instead of glue!. i will start with replacing the drum hardware then rebleed the system and see how the master is doing then.
  17. no was the 14th. amazingly the failure happened just at the right time, no traffic no large hills. the pedal was to the floor but the car was still stopping of course when it happened i reduced speed to 20-30 mph. which i'm sure started to anger the cars building behind me. but i was able to get home in one piece. now this is the same master where i had switched from dot 5 to dot 4 because of all the leaks i was getting with silicone fluid and not swelling the O-rings correctly. i flushed the system a few times over the years since that change but it is more then possible the damage was done. I've been through like 4 masters in 13 years which sucks. now the really sucky part is going to be sucking the old fluid out, taking everything apart swapping the master again and inspecting the front and rear wheel cylinders and see what is going on. i will check the braking brake i never did check that stupider things have happened. i think whatever is dragging my right rear brake saved me today because it was obviously helping to slow the car down. but i think the main failure was on the firewall :(
  18. well its been about a year since i last drove my car. so first nice day out i figure i'd take a spin. first thing i did was inspect the car looking for obvious issues. i looked under and over the chassis and engine bay, checked for brake leaks. the usual converter leak was there still weeping. popped the master cylinder cap to have a look, was full and looked ok. inspected the engine compartment for rodent damage, battery has been on the minder so it was ok. checked fluid levels all good. when i stepped on the brake pedal something was a little off but it has been a year since i drove it. i pumped the pedal and it seemed to hold pressure. so did the prestart to get some oil up to the topside of the engine, set the curb idle and she turned right over sounded good. did a forward and back test on the trans and then filled up the tires with air as they were a slightly low. so hoped in the car. I did a brake test to just make sure i was ok and i locked up the tires. so with 1/2 tank of gas i left and listened to some tunes. Everything was fine for an hour. Then 1 hour into my trip i was making a left turn and suddenly the brake pedal went right to the floor and i felt a big pop from the firewall right through my shoes. and a sudden loss of brakes. Well i still had brakes all the way on the floor. just great the master cylinder took a dump and i had a feeling something was wrong when i started the inspection. after filling my pants i limped home. getting out into the garage i smelled something like burning brakes that turned out to be something in the right rear drum, maybe its dragging i have no idea but the entire rear tire cavity was letting off tremendous heat. there was no fluid leaking that i could see outside of the drum. to the front to inspect the master. i popped the cap and she was still full at the same level as when i first looked. the weep on the booster was dry so i assume some kind of internal seal failure. so now i have another master cylinder to install and to jack the car up and look at the wheel cylinders. all i wanted to do was drive on a nice day.
  19. this is obviously a Holley Thermo Smog pump that only California cars had due to C.A.R.B laws.
  20. if you turn on the signals do the front and rear lights indicate left and right but the dash indicators are just not working? then you know the issue is in the dash board instrument panel. if you turn on the hazard lights and the dash lights up left and right then you know the instrument cluster is ok your hazards are working so switch itself might be ok.. next place to look is open the glove box and look up there is a panel up there pop the 2 screws and drop the panel down the Turn signal flasher module is located here. the Hazard lights module is down by the fusebox, but there are 2 separate flashers in our cars. so change that flasher above the glove box and retest. the switch could be defective and it is easier to swap out to test function. Worse case scenario a broken wire inside the dash harness or broken connector which is much harder to trace. you can also try experimenting usually the turn signal housing light socket rusts out and shorts out the turn signals. So pop the bulbs in the front turn signal housing out and see if suddenly the lights start working you can try the same with the rear lights you might get lucky and figure out which lights socket is bad then you can replace it. on my car my front 72 turn signals were completely shorted and needed to be replaced so my turn signals worked.
  21. Less then 50% from my angle. Used welding shield and 2 sets of sunglasses to avoid eye damage.
  22. use some shoegoo or RTV sealant to hold the screw in and it will reduce vibration as it will be a flexible vibration stopper.
  23. What kills the clocks is long term storage without a battery tender. When the car battery dies it reaches a point where the battery doesn't have enough power to run the coils in the clock. The contacts that open and close for the coils gets stuck closed, that charges the coil but it doesn't have enough power to magnetically throw the contact to discharge. So the coil burns out usually right at the end of the connection. That kills the clock. If you are good with soldering you can unwind the lacquered coil that burned out 1/2 turn and resolder the coil connection that burned out and get the clock going again. The trick is leaving the battery on a minder all the time preventing the battery from getting weak and killing the clock
  24. Blower motor can be removed pretty easy. First remove the drivers seat. Disconnect the battery. Next get into the car on your back and slide yourself by the accelerator pedal. There are 2 wires follow them off the blower one is a push on connector. The second is a ground to the body up high in the dash you can reach it with a long Phillips Next there are 4 hex head bolts holding the blower and cage into the fan blower duct housing. I think they are 1/4" you will need a few different length extensions to get a small Rachel around the pedal and some wires. Once removed push the pedal down and grab the fan and twist it around so you can clear all the stuff in the way. It isn't super easy you will be on your back or side grabbing with one hand but it will come out. It will take you 1-2 hours to get it out. Then get back in reverse order to install the fan when ready. I've replaced my fan a couple of times over the years, you don't need to remove the center console or any dash board panels just the seat removal is a big deal to give you access.
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